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LIBRARY

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University of California.

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FORDING THE

MUZART'NIN-SU.

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CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA

A RIDE TO LITTLE TIBET

HENRY LANSDELL, D.D.

&.R.A.S., F.R.G.S.

AUTHOR OF " THROUGH SIBERIA," " RUSSIAN CENTRAL ASIA,"
41 THROUGH CENTRAL A9IA," ETC.

SSith T&Wctt J$ap0 **b $»ghtg Illustration*

/AT TWO VOLUMES
Vol. I.

iPeto gork

CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS

"53—157 FIFTH AVENUE

1894

[All rights reservtd\

-^a^

i®&

BY THE SAME AUTHOR.

■RUSSIAN CENTRAL ASIA,

INCLUDING

KULDJA, BOKHARA. KHIVA, AND MERV.
In Two Volumes, 42s.

THROUGH CENTRAL ASIA.

With a Map and Appendix on the Russo- Afghan Frontier.
In One Volume, 12s.

THROUGH SIBERIA.

In One Volume, 10s. 6d.
Library Edition, Two Volumes, 30J.

Far further particulars, see page 457.

%o 5?i0 august aati imperial a^ajejJtp
The BmPE^o^ ob €Chin&,

ETC., ETC., ETC.

Sire,

Seeing that my work on " Russian Central Asia " was
dedicated by permission to His Imperial Majesty the Emperor
of Russia, I desired that these volumes on " Chinese Central
Asia " should be dedicated to His Imperial Majesty the Emperor
of China. To this end permission was asked on my behalf of
the Imperial Government in Peking by Her Britannic Majesty's
Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary ; Sir John
Walsham, Baronet; and the answer of the Yamen, telegraphed
by him to the Foreign Office in London, was to the effect that
no foreign work could be presented or dedicated to the Emperor
until it had been translated into Chinese, and examined by the
responsible ministers.

A few weeks later, however, letters arrived from Peking
telling me more fully what had been done, and inclosing a
translation of a letter from the Secretaries of the Yamen to
Mr Jordan, Oriental Secretary at the British Embassy at Peking.
In this translation I read that u The Prince and Ministers
consider Dr Lansdell has done a very praiseworthy work indeed
in making a special study of the habits and customs of the people
among whom he travelled, and in compiling a book which he
wishes to see widely circulated in China" I gather also that

217L83

iv DEDICATION,

the Secretaries of the Yatnen on one occasion verbally requested
Mr Jordan to inform Sir John Walsham that you, Sire, were
graciously disposed to accept the proposed dedication (which I
esteemed a great kindness on the part of your Majesty), though
the letter referred to affirms the general rule in regard to works
of foreign origin and language.

Seeing then, Sire, that my linguistic attainments do not enable
me to translate my work into Chinese, and that I cannot delay
its publication in England, and hoping further that I have at
least your good-will and favour in the matter, I trust I shall not
be committing an unpardonable crime if I venture here to offer
my book to your Imperial Majesty as a humble token of thank-
fulness for protection and safe conduct whilst travelling through
a remote portion of your Majesty's dominions,

I confess to having been gratified, on crossing the Chinese
frontier at Kuldja, to find my coming expected, and at Kashgar
my reception provided for. Much assistance was afforded me in
the Hi valley by the provision of suitable interpreters for the
little-known languages of some of the peoples with whom I was
brought into contact. Moreover, in preparing for my journey
across the Muzart Pass, the greatest care was taken of my person,
and my comfort studied, whilst as I continued round Chinese
Turkistan I received from your Majesty s officials repeated mani-
festations of hospitality and good-will. All this made my journey
less arduous than I expected, and greatly mitigated what were
to me the privations of the way.

Chinamen, I believe, usually travel for one of three reasons —
namely, on Government service, commerce, or religion. It was the
last of these, Sire, that led me to travel in China, and from the
following pages it will be seen that my object was to spread the
knowledge of the supreme God. I am aware that when an
Englishman thus approaches the Chinese, he approaches an an-
cient nation with a literature much older than his own ; a people

DEDICATION. v

which numbers perhaps a third of the population of th$ globe,
and whose armies, through many centuries, were ever victorious.
I have heard, too, of Chinese prejudice against the religion and
ways of foreigners; but I do not forget that Buddhism, now so
widely spread throughout the empire, was originally imported from
abroad, and that an illustrious Emperor of China, more than a
thousand years ago, gave a respectful hearing to a Nestorian
teacher of Christianity, and, after raising him to high religious
office, appointed him " Great Conservator of Doctrine for the
preservation of the State." Others of your Imperial Majesty s
august predecessors have similarly shown favour to Christianity
(some of them by building Christian churches), and only within
the last few years an edict has been issued enjoining the Chinese
people to respect Christians and praising their teaching as pro-
moting peace and good living.

These things lead us in England to hope that some, at least,
in China are willing to give to Christianity a fair hearing. And
this, Sire, is precisely what we ask for. We do not seek to force
our religion upon your Majesty fs subjects (as the Muhammadans
have often done in the Tarim valley) by the power of the sword.
We are willing that the superiority of our religion should be tested
by its fruits, feeling sure that Christianity, rightly taught, can do
as much for the happiness of the Chinese as it has done for the
English. To this end there are some hundreds of my countrymen
and countrywomen who are nobly and unselfishly spending their
lives for the good of China. For these may I ask your Majesty's
favour and encouragement, feeling as I do that they art deseroing
of kindness and consideration? Most of them have sundered,
wholly or in part, family ties, which are deemed sacred all the
world over. Not a few have relinquished positions of comparative
ease and comfort, in order to be of use to the people amongst
whom they have come to live. And although, lastly, my own
little effort is not worthy of mention in comparison with theirs,

vi DEDICATION.

yet, inasmuch as the journey recorded in these volumes was by
far the hardest I have known, I hope that the record of what
has been attempted may be regarded as some little indication of
my desire for what I believe to be the good of your Majesty's
empire.

It is with these sentiments, Sire, of thankful appreciation of
kindness shown to me in Chinese Turkistan, and with every
good wish for the highest welfare of your Majesty and the people
of your vast dominions, that I venture respectfully to subscribe
myself,

Your Imperial Majesty's very humble Servant,

THE AUTHOR.

PREFACE.

THIS book is intended to be a companion and
complement to my Russian Central Asia. The
area covered by the two works extends all across the
continent from the Caspian to the Pacific, whilst my
Through Siberia deals with the rest of Asia, north-
ward, to the Arctic Ocean. By Chinese Central Asia
is meant that portion of the Celestial Empire lying
outside the Great Wall — that is to say, external or
extra-mural China ; but not all parts thereof are here
treated with equal fulness.

In the chapters concerning Chinese Turkistan I
have endeavoured to be fairly thorough, if only
because we have no standard work treating of this
country as a whole. In saying this I do not forget
the contributions of Sir Douglas Forsyth, Surgeon-
General Bellew, and others, to whose valuable reports
and writings, published and unpublished, in connection
with the Yarkand Missions, I am greatly indebted.
Names of other writers also on certain parts of the
country, to whom I owe much, are given in the
Bibliography.

The main object of my journey was to spy out the

viii PREFACE.

land for missionary purposes. If, however, the lover
of missionary information should think that I did little
or no work of a missionary kind myself, I would re-
mind him that as a preacher I was dumb ; as a dis-
tributer of literature I had not the proper translations ;
whilst as a pioneer I conceived it my chief task to
observe what openings existed, or could be made, for
qualified evangelists to follow.

The book has been longer in making its appearance
than I intended. As a matter of fact the word "Finis"
was written on my rough manuscript more than a year
ago, but the work of revision and printing has been
delayed by private affairs with which it is not neces-
sary to trouble the reader.

A preface, though coming in a book first, is written
last, and therefore may be regarded in more senses
than one as a suitable place for thanksgiving. Several
old friends who aided me with my earlier books have
again come to my assistance ; such as Mr Glaisher,
F.R.S., in meteorology, and Professor Bonney, F.R.S.,
in geology. Mr Dresser, F.Z.S., determined and
arranged such of my birds as are here presented ;
whilst Mr Bethune- Baker, F.L.S., F.E.S., and Mr
Western, F.E.S., kindly made lists of my lepidoptera
and coleoptera. In literary matters, Lieut. W. H.
Cromie and Mrs Bell have again helped in Russian
translation, and the Rev. W. W. Tyler, B.D., has done
much by way of revision. To all of the foregoing my
thanks are due, as also to my wife, who has penned
the whole of the Bibliography, and the Chronology.

PREFA CE. ix

Most of the illustrations are from my own photo-
graphs, and have been drawn to illustrate articles in
Harper's and Scribriers Magazines, the Graphic, the
Fishing Gazette, and Black and White, as well as a
series of letters on '• A Ride to Little Tibet " in the
Daily Graphic. If the illustrations from the last of
these should appear somewhat rough and unfinished, the
reader will kindly remember that the blocks were not
prepared for this book, but for the exigencies of rapid
newspaper printing. They are, however, so true to
nature and what actually occurred that it was deemed
desirable not to omit them. To the editors of the
above-mentioned periodicals I am indebted for electro-
types. Still more perhaps am I indebted to Dr
Lindsay Johnson, the oculist, who not only urged my
taking a camera, but with excellent judgment selected
my apparatus, and gave me lessons in photography.

The foregoing may be called home thanksgivings.
It is with difficulty that I mention names of those who
helped me abroad ; for if I begin, where shall I stop ?
As 1 did not rely in vain upon the assistance of the
Foreign Office, the Russian Embassy, or the Chinese
Legation at home, so was I similarly favoured at
the Russian capital, where his Excellency M. Pobe-
donostzefif and various Ministers of State lent me their
important aid, so that between St Petersburg and the
Chinese frontier the Russians outdid all they have ever
done for me in smoothing my way.

In India, again, the Marquis of Lansdowne, as
Viceroy, and several heads of departments, not only

x PREFACE.

lent me valuable books and maps, but gave me letters,
and showed me an amount of attention out of all pro-
portion to my claims or deservings. I was favoured
for the entire journey with from three to four hundred
introductions — official, social, religious, scientific, lite-
rary, and general. What they did for me may be
surmised when it is added that, though I set foot in
every country of Asia, I was permitted to go there to
scarcely a dozen hotels.

In sending forth this book, I do so with hearty
greetings to those who, in various parts of the world,
have perused my former works. If it shall further
interest or instruct them, I shall be glad; but my
greatest happiness would be that the work may in
some way call attention to the need, and help in fur-
ther opening up the remote parts of China to the
influence of the Gospel.

H. L.

Morden College,

Blackheath, London, S.E.

i i th November ', 1 893 .

P.S. — Within a few days of sending this sheet to
press, my attention has been called to a new map of
the Pamir regions by Messrs Constable & Co., who
state that it embodies the latest information published
(besides much of value that is unpublished) on the
region in question. I have accordingly inserted the
map in Volume II., to illustrate further my chapter on
the Pamirs, and my route over the adjacent mountains.

CONTENTS.

PAGES

Dedication iii

Preface vii

Contents of Chapters xi

List of Illustrations in Volume I xxii

The Author's Itinerary xxiv

Observanda xxx

Introduction xxxi

CHAPTER I.

FROM LONDON TO MOSCOW.

The start, and Author's forebodings, I. — Delayed arrival at Berlin ;
Visit to the Chinese Embassy, 2. — Custom-house at Wirballen ;
Arrival at St Petersburg, and objects of visit ; Request to travel
by Trans-Caspian Railway, 3. — Calls on Sir Robert Morier and
M. Pobedonostzeff; Acceptance by Emperor of Through Central
Asia, 4. — Promise of help from Minister of Interior ; Scientists
visited ; Social gatherings, and dinner at Embassy, 5. — Visit to
M. Vlangali, Assistant-Minister for Foreign Affairs ; Reception by
Prince Dondukoff- Korsakoff, and recommendation to General
Annenkoff ; Visit to the Minister for War, 6. — My programme, 8.
— Meeting with General Kostenko, 9. — Departure for Moscow ;
Travelling acquaintances, Dr Alexeef and Count Bobrinsky, junr,
10.— Arrival in Moscow, and call on Count Leo Tolstoi, 11. —
Departure southwards, 12 1 — 12

xii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER II.
FROM MOSCOW TO THE CASPIAN.

PAGES

Railway dangers ahead ; Pleasant fellow-passengers, and offers of
hospitality, 13. — Arrival at Kursk; Arrival and enforced stoppage
at Kharkof, 14. — Former visit to town prison, 15. — Departure
from Kharkof, and arrival in Crimea, 16. — Improved weather at
Sevastopol; Sunday service, 17. — Departure for Batoum ; H.B.M.
Consul ; Departure across Caucasus, and arrival at Tiflis ; Sir
Drummond Wolff and Col. Stewart ; Presentation of introductory
letters, 18. — Dr Radde and M. Hedjouboff ; Departure from Tiflis
to Baku, 20 13—20

CHAPTER III.

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV.

"Wanted" by the Police-master; Call on the Governor, 21. — Com-
forts on steamer to Uzun Ada ; Landing at railway terminus, 22.
— Trans-Caspian stations to oasis of Akhal Tekke, 25. — Kizil
Arvat, 26. — Arrival at Geok Tepe, 28. — My coming to Askhabad
expected, 30. — Continuation of journey to Dushak, 32. — Arrival at
Merv, 35. — Hospitality of Colonel Alikhanoff; Modern Merv, 36. —
Oriental carpets and embroidery, 37. — Alikhanoff's successful
administration ; Quiet and order of Panjdeh, 38. — A visit to Old
Merv, 39. — Ruins on site of Merv; Arab and Persian remains,
41. — Russian annexation of Merv, 43. — How brought about, 44. —
Liberation of slaves, 46 21 — 46

CHAPTER IV.

FROM MERV TO THE OXUS.

Further railway favours, 47. — Journey through sand barkhans and
desert stations, 48. — Guest at Amu-daria with Colonel Tcharykoff,
50. — Reforms by new Emir of Bokhara, 51. — Dinner- party at
Colonel TcharykofTs, 52. — Visit to Bek of Charjui ; Murder of
previous Bek, and lynching the murderer, 54. — The prison re-
visited, 55. — The gallows, 57. — Journey continued in a rolling
maisonette, 58. — Bridge over the Oxus, 59. — Inn at Bokhara
station, 60 47—60

CONTENTS. xiii

CHAPTER V.
BOKHARA.

PAGES

Drive to the town, 61. — Fellow-guests and repeated experiences;
Madame Klemm's hospitality, 62. — Russian ladies in Bokhara, 63.
— Espionage and suspicion of natives ; Visit to bazaar and Kalan
Mosque ; Photography allowed but suspected, 64. — House of the
Ishan and maniacs, 65. — Picture-taking under difficulties ; Visit to
Jewish synagogue, 67. — Morning prayers and circumcision, 68. —
Jewish oppression in Bokhara, 69. — Visit to city prison, 70. —
Lepers' quarter, 72. — Audience with the Emir, 73: — " A bargain's
a bargain " ; Political influence of Russian Residency, 77.— Rides
about the town, 78 61 — 79

CHAPTER VI.

SAMARKAND.

Departure from Bokhara, 80. — Arrival at head of the line ; Guest of
General AnnenkofF, 81. — M. Rubenstein and Dr Heyfelder, 84. —
Drive to Katte Kurgan ; Custom-house ; A banquet anticipated, 85.
— Departure by post-horses, 86. — Farewell to General Annenkoff;
Bridges prepared for railway, 87.— Approach to Samarkand;
Guest with M. Tolpygo; Dinner at Government House, 88. —
Condition of former acquaintances ; Sights revisited ; Tamerlane's
Mausoleum, 89. — Synagogue, and visits from Jews ; Farewell to
M. Tolpygo and Samarkand, 91 80—91

CHAPTER VII.

TASHKEND.

Crossing the Zarafshan to the bridge of Shadman-Malik ; Route
to Jizak, 92. — Across the " Hungry " Steppe to Chinaz, 93. —
Tashkend, 94.— Dinner with Governor-General Rosenbach ; Help
from Captain Blinoff, 95.— Easter services, and subsequent recep-
tion at Government House; Lutherans' request for a service
and Easter communion ; Withdrawal of money from bank, 96. —
Arrangements for communication with Kashgar, 97. — Improve-
ments in Tashkend and purchases, 99. — Russian lady nurses, 101.
— An open-air bazaar; Further visits to Government House, and
parting amenities, 102 92—102

xiv CONTENTS,

CHAPTER VIU.
FROM TASHKEND TO ISSIK-KUL.

PAGES

Departure from Tashkend ; Arrival at Chimkend, 103.— Passing through
Aulie-Ata ; Previous visit remembered at stations beyond, 104. —
Region of " Ming-bulak " ; Out of General Government of Turkistan
into that of the "Steppe"; Telegrams to and from General
Kolpakovsky; Arrival at Pishpek, 105.— Should I visit Issik-
Kul ? 106. — Start with a Colonel ; Arrival at Tokmak, and excur-
sion to the Burana Tower, 107. — Recent discovery of Nestorian
cemeteries, 109. — Two graves opened, 1 10. — Traces of surround-
ing habitations ; Tokmak cemetery ; Inscriptions and decipher-
ment, 112. — Departure from Tokmak ; The Buam defile ; Crossing
the Chu to Kok-Mainak, 114. — Northern chain of the Tian Shan ;
The Ala-Tau and Alexander ranges; Basin of Issik-Kul, 115. —
Description of the lake ; Road along its northern shore ; A narrow
escape; Arrival at Kara-Kol, 116 103 — 116

CHAPTER IX.

FROM ISSIK-KUL TO VIERNY.

A previous traveller to Issik-Kul ; Scenery of Kara-Kol, 1 17. — Attentions
from Colonel Vaouline ; Arrangements of Chief of the District on
my behalf, 118.— Change of plans, 119.— The Kara-Kirghese; their
districts, origin, and costume, 120. — How far Muhammadans;
Missions among them of Russian Church, 121. — Kirghese modes
of treating disease; Fish, for specimens, 124.— Passing through
Pishpek, 125. — The Chu river and the Aral depression ; Our wheel
fallen to pieces, 126. — Arrival at Otar, and repair of tarantass, 127.
—Arrival at Uzun-Agatch, and escort to Vierny, 128 . 117 — 128

CHAPTER X.

VIERNY AFTER AN EARTHQUAKE,

Vierny pleasantly situated, 129.— Eye- witnesses' description of earth-
quake, 130. — Houses of burnt brick most damaged ; Destruction
around town; Mud streams from the mountains, 131. — Losses of
life, 132. — Removal of inhabitants; Author taken to Governor's
temporary abode; Lodged in M. Gourdet's new house, 133. —
Money sent to Kashgar, 134. — Anniversary of earthquake, and
Memorial Chapel; Seismic record of earthquake shocks, 135. —
Baggage delayed; Remissness of Russian Society for Trans-
port, 137. — Douceur given and misappropriated, 138. — Arrival of
baggage; Luggage forwarded to J arkend, 139 . . 129—139

CONTENTS. xv

CHAPTER XI.
FROM VIERNY TO THE CHINESE FRONTIER.

PAGES

Departure from Vierny, and meeting an Englishman at Ilisk, 140. — A
gang of Siberian exiles ; False statement as to their chains, 141. —
Altitude of Ilisk, 142. — Crossing bridge ; Geology of the road ;
Need of sound wheels; Road to Jarkend, 143. — Hospitality pro-
vided, 144. — Introduction to a rich native ; Offers of service from
Prjevalsky's guides, 145. — Arrangements for money, and modes
of conveyance ; Purchase of cart and horses, 146.— Kindness of
Yuldasheff; Departure from Jarkend, and review of Russian
favours, 147. — Driving towards the frontier, and warnings as to
being stopped, 148. — Advised to approach from Peking, 149. —
Deprived of interpreter, 150. — Cossacks for escort, and "success
number one"; Site of ancient Almalik; Martyrdom of mediaeval
Christians; To and at Suiting; Arrival at Kuldja, 151 . 140 — 151

CHAPTER XII.

MANCHURIA, MONGOLIA, SUNGARIA,

China within and beyond the Wall ; Outer China girdled by mountains ;
Former extent of China's dominion ; Character of surface, 153. —
Political divisions of Outer China, 1 54.— Manchuria ; its boundaries,
dimensions, mountains, and rivers; its provinces, government,
and population, 155. — Our knowledge of Manchuria, and whence
acquired ; Nomad tribes, their Shamanism, and partial conver-
sion, 156. — Manchuria colonised by Chinese; Manchu, the court
and official language of China; Efforts to Christianise Man-
churia, 1 58. — Mongolia ; its dimensions and climate, 1 60. — Divisions
and towns of Mongolia ; Kiakhta, and tea route ; Inhabitants of
Mongolia, 161. — The Mongols, lamaists, 162. — Missionaries' trans-
lation of Bible still in use ; Baptisms by Russian missionaries ;
Missions to southern Mongols, 163. — A difficult but open field, 164.
— Sungaria ; its depressions a highway to and from the Turkistan
plains; Three districts of Sungaria, 165. Chuguchak; its troops
and trade, 166. — District of Kara-kur-usu ; its lakes and towns ;
The imperial high road to Hami, 168. — History of the Sungars,
and their approximate extermination ; Sungaria repeopled by
various nationalities, 169. — Translation of Scriptures into Kalmuk ;
Another field for missionary effort, 170 .... 152 — 170

xvi CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIII.
CHINESE OFFICIAL PRELIMINARIES.

PAGES

Lodgings at Kuldja, 171. — Book-post parcels not opened by Censor,
172. — Packages from Russian Consul ; Visit to M. Uspensky, 173. —
Changed appearance of Kuldja under Chinese, 175. — Arrival of
horses, 176.— Paucity of public buildings ; Call from Lutheran
postmaster, 177. — Letter from the Tsian-Tsiun ; Excursion to
Suiting, 178. — Appearance of Suiting, 179. — Chinese inn; Intruding
natives and distracting noises, 181.— Called to breakfast with Kah;
A score of dishes, 182. — Chinese table etiquette and conversa-
tion, 184. — Return call from Kah; his Manchu agility-; Audience
with the Tsian-Tsiun, 185. — Presents to Tsian-Tsiun and Kah ;
Calls from and upon Mattie, a former acquaintance, 186. — Presents
from Tsian-Tsiun, including a sucking-pig; Disgust of Muham-
madan innkeeper ; Return to Kuldja, 187 . . . 171 — 187

CHAPTER XIV.

PREPARATIONS AT KULDJA,

My impedimenta, 188. — Food, physic, and clothing, 189. — Furniture,
books, and instruments, 190. — Presents ; Visit from a blind
native, 192. — Call on Roman missionaries, 193. — Their assistance
sought by Chinese ; 111 effects of child-marriage, 194. — Shelter given
to the girl by missionaries ; Names added to roll of adherents ;
Chinese quarter of Kuldja and magistrate's procession, 195. —
Instruments of punishment, 196. — Intended route changed, 197. —
Interpreter into Chinese unwilling to proceed, 198. — Withdrawal
of interpreter into Turki ; Perplexing, but subsequently proving
well ; Objections to route vid Urumtsi ; Consideration as to moun-
tain roads, 199. — The Muzart Pass, 200. — A caravan leader willing
to attempt it ; How affecting main object of journey ; Where to
find interpreter? 201 . — Another excursion to Suiting, 202. — Chinese
temple and theatre, 203. — Change of route sanctioned and
arranged for, 204 — Return to Kuldja ; Interpreter sent for to
Kashgar, 205. — My Tatar hostess, 206. — Farewell visit to Suiting
and Chinese officials, 207 188—207

CHAPTER XV.

FROM KULDJA TO THE PASS OF CHAPCHAL.

Caravan travel by horses ; M. Bornemann and his linguistic abilities,
208. — Caravan leader and negotiations; Text of contract, 210. —
Departure from Kuldja, 212. — Swollen condition of river; Escort
of four, 213. — Jing's pretensions ; Whipping the ferryman, 214. —

CONTENTS. xvii

PAGES

The Hi, and how crossed ; Bivouac, and departure next morning,
215. — Personnel of caravan, 216. — A Sibo village ; Solon colonists,
217. — Reception at Kalmuk encampment, 218. — Shooting grouse,
and ride to Damarchi ; Taranchi inhabitants, 219. — Hospitality at
Damarchi ; Ride along the Uzun-Tau Mountains, 220. — Arrival at
gorge of Chapchal, 221 208 — 221

CHAPTER XVI.

THE TEKES VALLEY.

First Sunday iu camp, 222. — Lodging in Kalmuk tent, 223. — Breakfast
menu, 224. — Review of month, 225. — My servant Joseph, 226. —
Lack of efficient interpreter, 227. — Altitude and temperature of
Chapchal ; Visit to Kalmuk tents, 228. — Pass of Chapchal ; Defile
of Sua-Chow ; Geology of Uzun-Tau, 229. — Altitude of Pass, 230.
— Descent to Booghru ; Cattle of the Kalmuks, and dogs, 231. —
March from Booghru and butterfly hunt, 233. — Manchu larking
on horseback; Caution against spirit-drinking, 234. — Arrival at
Khanakai, 235. — Taking photographs; Departure to the Tekes;
its rise and course, 236. — Impracticable ford at Geelan and detour
to Narin-Kol ; Welcome at Russian picket, and help of Cossacks,
238. — Fording the Tekes, 239. — Another night on river bank;
Awakened by Lama's prayers; Departure for Muzart defile,
240 222—240

CHAPTER XVII.

UP THE MUZ-TAG MOUNTAINS.

Orography of Tian Shan system, 241. — Abundance of glaciers, but few
rivers, 242. — Sources of our knowledge of the Tian Shan; the
Muz-Tag range, 243. — Fording the Urten Muzart, 244. — Absence
of Kirghese ; Entrance to Muzart defile ; A quiet Sunday, 245. —
Remains of stone fort; Starting-point of Shepeleff; Kostenko's
route, 246. — Departure from Shattoo ; Inscription on granite rock ;
Forest zone of birch, fir, etc., 247. — Beauty of path, 248. — Butterfly-
hunting on horseback, 249. — Arrival at Udungei ; Chinese picket,
and Kalmuk tents ; Kalmuk food, 250. — Osman Bai's orthodoxy as
to food, 25 1. — Departure to Khan-Yailak, 252. — Visit to last Kalmuk
tent; Comparison of koumiss of Orenburg and farther east, 253. —
Kalmuk photographs and anthropological remarks, 254. — Dress,
numbers, and administration, 256. — Russian education of Kalmuks ;
their intellectual capacities, 257. — Buddhist objects of worship;
Kalmuk women, marriage customs, and morals, 258. — Features of
nomad life ; Chinese picket, 259. — Willingness of Jing and Tor-jee
to proceed ; other two attendants sent back, 260 . 241—261

xviii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVIII.
OVER THE MUZ-DAVAN, OR ICE PASS.

PAGES

From Khan-Yailak to bed of Muzart, 262. — View of Archali-Karachat
glacier ; Camp at Toghri-su, 263. — Stir at daybreak, 264. — Basin
receiving five glaciers, 265. — Photograph of the " White Moun-
tain," 266. — Kaulbars' remarks on Jalyn-Khatsyr glacier, 268. —
Ice-tables and stony roads; View of mer-de-glacc^ 272. — Ice-
hummocks, crevasses, grottoes, and pinnacles; Difficulties of
pack animals, 274. — Fall over precipice of horse and baggage ;
Mazar-bash ; former hermitage, and fort, 275. — Soldiers' pro-
visions and horses hauled up an ice-cliff, 276. — Scrambling down
the Muz-davan, 277. — Road over rocks and stones, 278. — From
Mazar-bash to Tamgha-tash; End of glacier, and superb ice-
cavern ; Hiuen Tsiang's description, 279. — Frequent loss of
horses ; Good fortune of first European in completely crossing
the Pass, 281 262 — 281

CHAPTER XIX.

DOWN THE MUZART VALLEY.

Tamgha-tash station unapproachable; Waiting for baggage, and
supperless to bed in the open, 283. — A remarkable day, 284. —
Arrival next morning of Osman Bai ; Military insignificance of
Tamgha-tash, 285. — Departure southwards; A marble monu-
ment, 286.— Fine view from Balguluk ; Professor Bonney's note
on Romanovsky's geological map ; Kungei Ala-Tau range ;
Rocks east, south, and west of Issik-Kul, 287. — Shaping of
mountains, and suggested periods of earth movements, 288. —
Alexander chain compared with Swiss Oberland ; Complicated
orographical structure at Kara-Kol watershed, 289. — The Ferghana
mountains and their characteristic rocks extending to Pamirs ;
Geology of route southwards, 290. — Three lines of orographical
folding; Continuation of author's route, 291. — Accident in fording
river ; Camera washed away ; Attendants' pursuit, and success in
recovering baggage, 292. — Arrival at Kailek, 294. — Breaking into a
post-station, 295.— To Tuprak ; An afternoon's shooting, 296. — Pur-
chase of an eagle, 297. — Joseph's taxidermical masterpiece, 298. —
Departure from Tuprak, and pursuit of partridges ; Narrow escape
from homicide ; Arrival at Muzart-Kurgan, 299 . 282 — 299

CONTENTS. xix

CHAPTER XX.
FROM MUZART-KURGAN TO AKSU

PAGES

Lodging at Muzart- Kurgan, 300. — Objections to Customs examination ;
Advice concerning Chinese officials, 301. — Standing on one's
rights, 302. — Visit of Customs official, 303. — Inspection of M«zart-
Kurgan; Nimrod's cunning, 304.— Route continued over undulating
tableland ; Dust columns, 305. — Kizil-Bulak ; Route southwards
over curious geological formation, 306. — Messenger from Aksu;
Stay at Auvat, and ride to Jam, 307. — Southern view of Tian
Shan, 308. — Khan Tengri, visible 100 miles off, 309. — Glaciers
and crests westwards ; From Jam to Tash-Lianger, 310. — Death
of a horse and dog, 311. — Thermometrical observations between
Kuldja and Aksu ; Arrival of Madamin Bai from Russian Consul,
312. — A minatory letter, 314. — Escorted into Aksu, 316 . 300 — 316

CHAPTER XXL

CHINESE TURKISTAN.

Chinese Turkistan; its boundaries and varying names, 318. — The Sin
Kiang, or New Frontier; its eastern boundary and latest carto-
graphy, 319. — Its dimensions, mountains, rivers, and lakes, 320. —
Surface and communications, 322. — The country described as
approached from Peking by northern route, and by southern route,
to Hami, 323. — Hami ; its history, European visitors, and present
condition, 326. — Roads from Hami to Kobdo, Barkul, and Guchen.
329. — Urumtsi ; its history and situation as headquarters town of
the Sin Kiang, 330. — Route vid Toksun to Pishan and Turfan, 333.
— History of Turfan ; its sacred mountain and latest European
visitors, 334. — Karashar and its Kalmuks, 337. — Kurla, Kuchar,
and Bai, 338 317—339

CHAPTER XXII.

OUR STAY AT AKSU.

Aksu ; its history and area, 340. — Our arrival and lodging, 341. —
Intricacies of Chinese money; shoes, tengas, and cash, 343. —
Visits from merchants ; Distribution of Scriptures, 345. — Reward
offered for Dalgleish's murderer, 346. — Aksu bazaar, 347. — Riding
round the town ; its buildings, cemetery, and mode of burial, 348.
— Repair of camera, 349. — Visit to Chinese Aksu ; Reception of
official visits, 351. — Inspection of prison, 352. — Preparations for
departure, and payment to Osman Bai ; Presents to Monkey-face
and Tor-jee ; Letters despatched to Kuldja. 354. — Cart-driver
taken before the magistrate, 35$ 340 — 355

xx CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXIII.

THE SOURCES OF OUR KNOWLEDGE OF CHINESE CENTRAL

ASIA.

PAGES

Meaning of " Chinese Central Asia," anciently " Cathay," 356. — How
regarded by Greeks and Romans ; Ptolemy's " Serica " ; Chinese
historians, 357. — The Buddhist pilgrims, 359. — Arabian knowledge
of the " Seres " ; Armenian and Persian intercourse with China,
360. — Nestorian and Roman missionaries, 361. — Marco Polo, 362.
— Benedict Goes; Translations from Chinese records and from
Tchuen-yuen, 364. — Russian contact with Mongols ; Missions to
Peking and Yarkand, 368. — Advances to Sungaria and Kashgar,
370. — Prjevalsky's journeys in Mongolia, 371. — Renat's map of
Sungaria, 372. — English explorers in Sungaria, and in Tarim
basin, 374. — Forsyth's missions to Kashgar, 375. — Later travellers
in Chinese Turkistan, 376 356—376

CHAPTER XXIV.

FROM AKSU TO MARALBASHI

Two roads to Kashgar; Northern through Ush-Turfan, followed by
Younghusband, 377. — District of Ush-Turfan; its people and
capital, 378. — Aksai valley and Kirghese nomads, 379. — Our de-
parture by southern route, 380. — March to Chinese city of Aksu,
381.— Fording the Janart river, and shooting birds, 383.— Ride
to Sai-Aryk, 384. — Stormy weather, 385. — Night travel through
Chilan to district of Maralbashi, 386. — Sunday at Yaka Kuduk ;
A Chinese official, 387. — Undesirable companions, 388. — March
to Chadir-Kul, 389. — Its birds and buildings, 390. — Pheasants
and Podoces, 391. — Scriptures at Turn Chuk, 393. — Arrival at
Charwagh, visited by Biddulph for shooting, 394. — Antiquities
between Charwagh and Maralbashi, 395 . 377—395

CHAPTER XXV.

THE INHABITANTS OF CHINESE TURKISTAN.

CONTENTS.

points of urban character ; Lack of baths ; Abuse of narcotics,
408.— Sexual depravity, 409. — Piteous story of a female prisoner,
410. — Degradation of country through Muhammadanism ; The
Chinese, "strangers and foreigners"; their mandarins and sol-
diery, 412. — Chinese garrisons and traders; Total population,
414 39fr-4t4

CHAPTER XXVI.

FROM MARALBASHI TO KASHGAR.

An early welcome, 415. — Call on the mandarin; The bazaar, 416. —
Visited by mandarin, 417. — Photography, and consequent excite-
ment, 418. — The fortress and its features, 420. —General character
of forts in Chinese Turkistan ; Maralbashi, a strategical position ;
Road southwards to Yarkand, 422. — Dolan shepherds and their
underground dwellings, 423. — Departure from Maralbashi, 424. —
A trot to Urdaklik, 425. — Caught in a quagmire, 426. — A neigh-
bourhood of wild-boars and deer, 427. — March to Faizabad;
Visited by Chinese general, 428. — Features of the town, 429. —
Limits of Kashgar district; March to the Yengi-shahr, 430. —
March through fortress to old town of Kashgar, 431 . 415 — 432

CHAPTER XXVII.

OUR STAY AT KASHGAR,

Ride to Russian Consulate, 433. — Ascent of city wall, 434. — M. Nicolas
Petrovsky and his Consular staff, 435. — His hospitality and intel-
lectual tastes, 436. — Miscarriage of letters ; Visited by local
authorities, 437. — Taking photographs, 438. — Trade of Chinese
Turkistan and its ramifications, 439. — Calls and presents from
the Tautai, 440. — Visit to prison, 441. — Three homicides, and
instruments of torture, 442. — Uncertainty as to route ; Thoughts
of Kafiristan, 444. — Preparations for Karakoram route ; Osman
Bai paid off, and three carts engaged ; Lack of antiquities in
Kashgar, 446.— Ruin of Aski Shahr ; Present town of Kashgar ;
Visit to shrine of Khoja Aphak, 447. — Rifled grave of Yakub Khan,
449. — The Mausoleum, 450. — The Golden Mosque ; The Consul's
photography and Muhammadan prejudice, 451 . 433— 45 l

Chronology of Chinese Central Asia 452

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN VOL. I.

PACE

fording the muzart-nin-su (See page 291) .... Frontispiece

MAP OF CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA, WITH AUTHOR'S ROUTE . . To face I

GENERAL L. M. ANNENKOFF, CONSTRUCTOR OF THE TRANS-CASPIAN RAILWAY 1

UZUN ADA, THE WESTERN TERMINUS OF THE TRANS-CASPIAN RAILWAY . 24

KODJ STATION IN THE AKHAL TEKKE OASIS 26

A BROKEN ICE-HOUSE ON THE PERSIAN FRONTIER 27

THE STATION AT GEOK TEPE 28

TEKKE FORTRESS OF GEOK TEPE, SHOWING THE HOLES IN WHICH THE TUR-
KOMANS HID THEMSELVES FOR PROTECTION FROM THE RUSSIAN MISSILES 29

RAILWAY STATION AT ASKHABAD 30

GARDEN OF THE MILITARY CLUB, ASKHABAD 31

THE TOMB OF CAIN AT SARAKHS 33

STATION AT DUSHAK, THE FARTHEST POINT SOUTH, WHENCE THE RAILWAY

MAY BE CONTINUED TO THE AFGHAN FRONTIER 34

NEW BRIDGE AT MERV 35

THE PRINCIPAL GATEWAY OF BAIRAM ALI 42

A RUSSIAN OFFICER NEGOTIATING WITH TURKOMAN CHIEFS J TURKOMAN-
WOMEN WITH SPINNING WHEEL; A TEKKE BEAUTY IN FESTAL ARRAY 44

RESERVOIR AT BAIRAM ALI, OR OLD MERV 48

RAILWAY DEPOT AT AMU-DARIA 50

BATCH AS, OR DANCING BOYS, WITH MUSICIANS AND SINGERS • • • 53

CEMETERY, AND MODE OF EXECUTION IN BOKHARA AND KHIVA ... 56

OPENING OF THE BRIDGE ACROSS THE OXUS AT CHAFJUI .... 57
BRIDGE OVER THE OXUS, 6,230 FEET, THE LONGEST IN THE WORLI* . 58, 59

JEWS OF BOKHARA 70

THE EMIR OF BOKHARA AND HIS TREASURFR 75

COLLEGE OF DIVAN-BEGGI 78

AT THE HEAD OF THE LINE 8l

LIS! OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xxiii

PAGE
A LOCOMOTIVE HABITATION FOR GENERAL ANNENKOFF, PART OF HIS STAFF,

AND SERVANTS 82

LAYING RAILS AT THE RATE OF FOUR MILES A DAY .... 83

MAKING A CUTTING — ASSES TAKING AWAY THE EARTH IN PANNIERS . . 84

CONSTRUCTION OF A BRIDGE NEAR SAMARKAND 87

THE GUR-EMIR, OR MAUSOLEUM OF TAMERLANE, AT SAMARKAND 90

WELLS IN THE " HUNGRY " STEPPE 93

COSTUMES OF CENTRAL ASIAN WOMEN IN THE STREET IOO

A WOMAN OK CENTRAL ASIA AT HOME IOI

THE SOURCE OF THE KOPA 127

A MUD-STREAM AFTER AN EARTHQUAKE 1 32

A CONVICT WITH HALF-SHAVEN HEAD I4I

CHAINS AND SUMMER COSTUME OF A SIBERIAN PRISONER .... I42

A GROUP OF GOLDI CHRISTIANS 1 57

MANCHU SOLDIERS AT SWORD DRILL, AT DURBULJIN, NEAR CHUGUCHAK l66, 167

THE TARANCHI MARKET AT KULDJA 1 75

THE DISCOMFORTS OF A CHINESE INN AT SUITING — PREPARING A ROOM FOR

THE AUTHOR l80

BREAKFAST WITH THE COMMISSARY OF RUSSO-CHINESE AFFAIRS AT SUITING 183

A TATAR WOMAN 206

VAN, A KALMUK KHAN, WITH HIS SUITE, AT BARATOLA .... 200,

ON THE WAY TO THE MUZART PASS — THE AUTHORS CARAVAN . .217

BAGGAGE TENT AND " PALATKA " AT KHANAKAI 244

A GROUP OF MONGOLS IN CHINESE TURKISTAN 255

SUNRISE ON A PEAK IN THE MUZART PASS, LOOKING SOUTH-WEST FROM

TOGHRI-SU 265

THE " WHITE MOUNTAIN " IN THE MUZART PASS, AS SEEN WHEN APPROACH-
ING FROM THE NORTH 267

THE DORGA GLACIER IN THE MUZART PASS 272

COMING DOWN THE ICE-CLIFF AT MAZAR-BASH . ... 278

NEARING AKSU — TEA BY THE WAY 315

IN THE PRISON AT AKSU — METHODS OF PUNISHING THE PRISONERS . 353

A KIRGHESE IN " MALAKHAI," OR TRAVELLING HOOD 399

A KIRGHESE BRIDE 4OI

INTERIOR OF A KARA-K1RGHESE TENT 4O3

CHINESE WOMEN AT KASHGAR 4I3

TAKING PHOTOGRAPHS IN THE BAZAAR 419

TAKING A PHOTOGRAPH FROM THE ROOF OF THE CARAVANSERAI. . . 42 1

AT KASHGAR — THE "TAUTAI " ON HIS WAY TO VISIT DR LANSDELL . . 44O

DERVISH SHAH ISMAIL, A KALENDAR OF THE APHAK MONASTERY . . 448

AT KASHGAR— MULLAHS INDICATING THE RIFLED GRAVE OF YAKUB KHAN . 450

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OBSERVANDA.

In proper names the letters should be pronounced as follows : —
a as in father ; e as in th^re ; i as in rav/ne ; o as in go ; u as
in 1« nar ; and the diphthongs at and ci as i in pr/de.

The consonants are pronounced as in English, save that ich
is guttural, as ch in the Scotch lor//.

Unless otherwise stated : —

English weights and measures are to be understood.

Degrees of temperature are expressed according to the
scale of Fahrenheit.

The Chinese yatnb (50 taels) is reckoned at jQi 1 55. od. English.
„ fael, /tang, or ser of silver is reckoned at 4s. 6d. „

» cash „ ^d. „

™tty ,, 41b.

ji"g ii »i lb.

„ // (1825-25 English feet) „ £ mile „

The Turkish tenga „ 2^. „

Pul „ tV-

The Russian rouble (paper) „ 2*. „

» verst „ f mile „

„ pound „ 14-43 oz. „

» /^ 11 36 lbs. „

The Indian rupee „ is. 6d. „

INTRODUCTION.

I PURPOSE, in the present work, to treat in general
of Chinese Central Asia, and, more particularly, my
journey from London to Little Tibet.

As to the reasons and motives for the expedition, especially
those of a personal character, I might prefer quietly to pass
them over ; but they are of interest to some, who like to
" begin at the beginning," and experience has taught me
that if, on such points, I keep silence, others undertake to
speak, but not always so accurately as I could wish.

Thus, one newspaper, during my absence, flatteringly
designated me as a " useful and enterprising agent of the
Bible Society " ; and I have been frequently connected in a
similar manner with the Religious Tract Society ; the fact
being that I have never acted as an agent of either, albeit
that both Societies, as well as the Society for Promoting
Christian Knowledge, have. accorded me grants of religious
literature for distribution.

Again, another newspaper, during my absence from England,
informed its readers that I " went out more than a year ago
with a sort of roving commission from the Church Missionary
Society," which is so wide of the mark that the Committee
felt obliged to decline my two requests for co-operation.

The story of my going is simply this. When proceeding
to Russian Central Asia in 1882, I received from the Marquis
Tseng letters to the Governors of Hi and the New Dominion,

xxxii INTRODUCTION,

on the remote possibility of my wishing to cross the Chinese
frontier near Kuldja. Time did not permit of my doing
so ; but I made the remark, I think at the dinner-table of
the Governor-General of Turkistan — Colonel Poukaloff, six
years afterwards, reminded me of it — how interesting a
journey it would be to cross the Tian Shan Mountains to
Kashgar, Yarkand, and Khotan. My fellow-guests, who
were officers, agreed as to the interest of the journey, but
thought it would be difficult to accomplish.

Nine months afterwards, at the Mildmay Conference, I
found myself seated next to the Rev. Hudson Taylor, Founder
of the China Inland Mission ; and, upon making his acquaint-
ance, I asked what they were doing for Western China, and
broached the thought of my possibly some day going there
through Mongolia. He readily favoured the idea, and offered
to do all he could to help me, by advice or letters, or
possibly by sending a man to accompany me.

This was kind and encouraging, as Mr Hudson Taylor
has been ever since ; but he rather damped my ardour
when he went on to say that his Society had a man on
the frontier of Tibet, learning the language, and ready to
go in when permitted.

What need, then, I thought, to pursue the matter?

On the same day I went to the Chinese Legation, where
I had promised to give information about travelling to Kuldja
through Russia ; and took the opportunity to inquire about
the possibility of going to Mongolia. I learnt that the
country was free to travellers, and was promised such help
as could be given.

Two days later, on meeting a scientific acquaintance, he
said that a journey across Mongolia would present facilities
for useful investigations in almost every department of
Natural History.

These considerations, with the foregoing, I thought over

INTRODUCTION. xxxiii

on the morrow, and, for the time being, put the matter
to sleep. This was in June 1883, when I was busy writing
Russian Central Asia.

My diary for the following September and December
shows that the idea was not abandoned, however ; nor, on
the other hand, in April of the following year, was it growing,
for I thought the China Inland Mission had the business
in hand. In 1885 I was invited to take temporary charge
of St Peter's Church, Eltham, and became so happily engaged
in parochial work that I thought my long journeys were
over.

Nor was this equanimity disturbed in the following year
on receiving a letter from an American named Crossett,
lately arrived from Peking, who at Tientsin had been reading
my Through Siberia. He thanked me for what I had done
for that country, and, on obtaining an interview, intimated
that he would like me to go to Mongolia and Tibet, whilst
in the coolest manner possible he took out his pocket-book
and gave me the names of two or three persons for inter-
preters. Not wishing to appear rude or indifferent, I wrote
them down, but told him I had no thought of going.

Nor had I ; though in a few weeks things were changed.
My temporary engagement came to an end ; the Church
Homiletical Society, of which I had been Honorary Secretary,
was dissolved, and I had just given up the editorship of
the Clergymaris Magazine^ when I received another note
from Mr Crossett, this time asking for linguistic information,
after which he added, " I am hoping that the way will be
opened soon for a pioneering tour into the eastern and
northern borders of Tibet from Peking. Will you come
out and lead the way?"

Such a bald question, put by a stranger, would ordinarily
have cost me but a few moments' consideration ; but on
this occasion the thought occurred to me, Is this a call,

xxxiv INTRODUCTION.

" Come over and help us " ? I felt I could not summarily
dismiss the matter, and on the following Sunday, after
carefully seeking for guidance, determined that I must not
say " no " without further inquiry.

On my going next day to Mr Hudson Taylor, he surprised
me by showing that I had previously misunderstood him,
in supposing that the China Inland Mission had the matter
in hand. Their plan, he said, was to go forward stage by
stage, establishing a line of missions behind ; and in this
way, he said, it would take them many years to reach
Western Mongolia. But he thoroughly welcomed the idea
of my going as a pioneer, and again offered such help as
his Society could render.

I had the good fortune to make the acquaintance on the
day following of Mr Ney Elias, who kindly furnished me
with a good deal of information on the region in question,
and added that, in taking the Scriptures to Chinese Turkistan,
I should be doing a work hitherto unattempted.

With such data, then, as had been gathered, I set apart
the next day to consider the question of a journey through
Mongolia to Chinese Turkistan. I traced in my diaries
what had been written thereon since 1882, and then put
down what seemed to me the arguments for and against
the undertaking.

On the one hand, my friends thought I ought to be settled
in a parochial charge. I had the disqualification of not
speaking the requisite languages, and prudential considera-
tions naturally suggested that my going would mean loss
of income, perhaps loss of life, and that, in any case, there
would be some danger and certainly many difficulties.

On the other hand, the peoples of Chinese Turkistan, I
thought, have not probably a Bible among them, and cer-
tainly have never seen the face of a Protestant missionary.
Translations of the Bible, or parts of it, are ready in Persian,

INTRODUCTION. xxxv

Kirghese, and Chinese. The country, from a missionary
point of view, is unknown ; no other pioneer appears to be
in the field ; and I have at least the advantage of previous
experience in Siberia and Russian Central Asia.

Both religion and science might be advanced by such a
journey, and, for the moment, I am free from definite respon-
sibilities at home. If I lose my life no one is dependent
on me, whilst certain facilities germane to the situation
appear within my reach, and there does seem a definite
call to the work. Finally, I asked myself whether Mr
Crossett's question was from God, and said, " If it be, and if
God will provide the means, not for stipend, but for cost of
travel, etc., then my answer shall be, ' Here am I ; send me!'"

This is easy to write, still easier to read, but it was not
easy to resolve. It looked like breaking up one's nest for
nearly three years, and going forth presumably assured of
food and raiment only, besides putting oneself further out
of the way of clerical preferment at home. With the murders
before me of Stoddart, Conolly, Schlagintweit, and Hayward,
the danger to life did not, at this stage, present itself as a
trifle, and I fully realised that it was by far the biggest
leap in the dark that I had ever ventured on.

To make open confession, however, I had recently read a
paper by Dr Cust* on the heroic conduct of the native
Christians among the Melanesians ; how, in their zeal to
spread their new religion, some of them faced the extreme
probability of being eaten by their cannibal tribesmen ; and
then the writer drew the contrast so obvious to every one who
will honestly think of it, how microscopically little average
Christians in England do by way of personal service or self-
sacrifice for the spread of the religion they profess to believe
and love.

* " How Native Teachers Evangelised Polynesia and Melanesia " {Church
Missionary Intelligencer, 1887).

xxxvi INTRODUCTION.

This consideration helped me in resolving to take my leap,
and the following shows how all this theory, as some will call
it, was converted into action.

I set to work by speaking in private to sundry acquaint-
ances and friends who had seats on Committees of our great
Church Missionary Societies. The manifesto placed before
them was headed, "A Projected Expedition to Chinese
Turkistan " ; its object being to distribute Scriptures and
other religious literature, and to study as a pioneer the
religious condition and needs of the people.

To this was added : " Among the results wholly or partially
due to my former journeys, has been the supply by sale or
gift of Scriptures, and religious literature, to the number of
1 50,000 copies, to the prisons, hospitals, and people generally
of Scandinavia, South-Eastern Europe, Finland, the Caucasus,
a large portion of European Russia, and the whole of Siberia
and Russian Central Asia. The value of this work has been
recognised by the Christian Church and the reports of the
Bible and Tract Societies, and similar advantages might
reasonably be expected from similar work on the virgin soil
of China. A country so little known as Chinese Turkistan
presents, moreover, a field of inquiry upon many topics of
scientific and general, as well as missionary, interest ; and
of these I should make note, as opportunity might serve, for
the use of those who may follow."

The manifesto went on to state that to carry out my
project thoroughly might take from one and a half to three
years. For this I asked no salary, but inquired of various
societies whether they could contribute towards what I was
advised, and what my previous experience led me to estimate,
would be the cost of the expedition.

The individuals spoken to, for the most part, seemed
interested, and some — the Archbishop of Canterbury among
them — promised support, if possible, in committee. As for

INTRODUCTION. xxxvii

the secretaries of the societies, I found most of them
sympathetic, some of them very much so ; but I do not
remember one of them who held out hope that I should get
from his committee the help I needed.

I continued trying in vain for three months, after which
the time to start was rapidly approaching, if, that is, I was to
be in Peking by the autumn, as suggested ; so that, had I
staked everything upon the great English societies, my pro-
jected expedition would now probably have collapsed.

But light was arising in another quarter. One of the first
persons I had communicated with was Dr Robert Needham
Cust, wrho more than once, on meeting me in the street and
elsewhere, had casually asked, " When are you going on
another journey ? " volunteering on one occasion the remark,
" I shall ask the committee of the Bible Society to send you
somewhere," to which I then replied neither yea nor nay.

Now that I had such a journey in prospect Dr Cust
suggested my writing, and using his name, to a certain
gentleman who had given large sums for the distribution of
the Bible in Africa, and who perhaps might be taken with
my scheme.

I did so, and received for reply a suggestion that I should
approach Mongolia from the west, getting my funds from the
same sources as for previous journeys ; whilst my correspon-
dent, for a simultaneous work, should send £200 to the China
Inland Mission for the visitation, with appropriate Scriptures,
of the eastern half of Chinese Turkistan. Subsequently, he
enlarged his proposed area to the whole of Mongolia, and
sent the £200 to Mr Hudson Taylor.

At this time, and previously, I had several interviews with
Mr Hudson Taylor, and I have a pleasant recollection of the
patience with which he listened and entered into my plans.
Once he was ill, always he was busy, on one occasion just
returned from a long journey, on another wanted here and

xxxviii INTRODUCTION.

there after a public meeting, but ever treating my little affair,
not as something to be got rid of as quickly as decorum
would allow, but as if he thought it of importance.

In making arrangements it was necessary to look far ahead,
and, before a penny was promised, he wrote in faith and hope
to China as to who should accompany me, and also asked
whether the American Bible Society at Shanghai would be
likely to aid in my project

This elicited a kind reply from the Secretary of the Society
in New York, who wrote thus to Mr Taylor : —

" If in the present case the explorer were unknown or
inexperienced, there would be reasons for hesitation and
delay, which do not now exist, but Dr Lansdell's journey
through Siberia has already given proof of his qualities, and
exhibited a measure of philanthropy which we admire and
honour."

After which he went on to say that his Board had
authorised the expenditure of 500 dollars a year, for a period
not exceeding three years, for the exploration of Central
Asia and Tibet, with a view of promoting there the circula-
tion of the Scriptures, particulars to be learned from their
agent at Shanghai.

This reached me on July 23rd, after I had come to the
conclusion, three weeks before, that my way to Chinese
Turkistan through Peking was blocked. Whether I could
enter from the west, in the following Spring, was doubtful,
and might remain in abeyance, 1 thought, till September,
when I had been invited to speak of my journeys at a
Convention in Dublin ; and I wondered whether anything to
the point might transpire there.

Accordingly, when the time came, I stated "publicly in
Dublin my willingness to go another journey ; and at Old
Connaught, in the drawing-room of the Archbishop of
Dublin, with whom I had the privilege of staying, I remarked,

INTRODUCTION. xxxix

at a private lecture on my travels, that I thought my
amended scheme would cost a thousand pounds ; but I did
not invite contributions. An Irish rector's wife, however,
volunteered to give ioj., and afterwards Lady Cochrane
sent a cheque, saying that of the needed thousand pounds
she should like to give one, which was the first brick of my
building really laid.

But things did not look very bright Mr Hudson Taylor
had tried to cheer me by saying, " Don't be discouraged ;
the devil will be sure to hinder " ; and I confess to having
carried sometimes a heavy heart. I had met with many
disappointments and discouragements, and was beginning to
wonder whether I had mistaken my call, insomuch that, on
October 25th, I went to Mr Hudson Taylor with the question: —

" Why should / go at all ? Why not let the two men we
have in view, instead of accompanying me, go by themselves,
and leave me out of the question ? "

Had he humoured this mood I think I should have been
willing, at this period, to withdraw ; but he thought it
decidedly better that I should go, and offered me half of the
£200 sent to him for Mongolia. To this I mentally added
what looked, at first sight, a promise of £300 from the
American Bible Society; resolved to submit the matter to
a few persons of means likely to be interested therein ; and
if sufficient promises for the remaining £600 were not forth-
coming before the end of November, then to interpret it as
God's will that I was not to go.

Accordingly I corrected the manifesto to altered circum-
stances, mentioned one and a half or two years instead of
three, a greatly shortened journey, and an estimate of
expenses cut down by half. On November 8th I began to
send out letters, not in hundreds and thousands to the public
generally, but three or four at a time to names from my
address book.

xl INTRODUCTION.

And now the tide completely turned. Within a week I
heard from Mr Blackstone, of Illinois, who had from the
outset warmly encouraged my scheme, and now promised
£100. The post, one morning, brought two letters of
curiously opposite character. In the first, the writer spoke
of the contemplated journey as "serious and perilous," to
which he could not contribute ; whilst in the second, the late
Mr R. C. L. Bevan " thought the enterprise very hopeful and
feasible," and promised £100.

And so cloud alternated with sunshine, and I was wonder-
ing on the 24th whether the £130 lacking would come. On
the 28th arrived a note from the Archbishop of Canterbury,
inclosing a " cheque of nominal value only, but as a token of
good will," which helped to raise my spirits, if not greatly
to increase my pile, whilst my friend Miss Peache and the
late Mr Allcroft sent £50 each, so that by the 29th I regarded
the matter as pecuniarily settled, and began to think of a
day for the start. I was afterwards found to have been
precipitate in reckoning on £300 from the American Bible
Society, for they now felt obliged to limit the arr^unt to
£200; but the late Sir William Mackinnon came to the
rescue with £50, and smaller sums made up the total to
£1,000 10s. 4d.

How a few hundred pounds in addition were raised for an
attempt to travel in Tibet proper will be found stated in
Chapter XLVIII., on "Plans Concerning Lassa." Mean-
while, my purse being made up, I learned from the Russian
Embassy that, in the event of my wishing to travel by
the Trans-Caspian railway, it would be wise on my part,
instead of proceeding there direct, to go for permission
to St Petersburg, which accordingly I proceeded to do.

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA:

A RIDE TO LITTLE TIBET.

CHAPTER I.

FROM LONDON TO MOSCOW.

The start, and Author's forebodings, i.— Delayed arrival at Berlin ;
Visit to the Chinese Embassy, 2. — Custom-house at Wirballen ;
Arrival at St Petersburg, and objects of visit ; Request to travel
by Trans-Caspian Railway, 3. — Calls on Sir Robert Morier and
M. Pobedonostzeff ; Acceptance by Emperor of Through Central
Asia, 4. — Promise of help from Minister of Interior; Scientists
visited ; Social gatherings, and dinner at Embassy, 5. — Visit to
M. Vlangali, Assistant-Minister for Foreign Affairs ; Reception
by Prince Dondukoff- Korsakoff, and recommendation to General
Annenkoff; Visit to the Minister for War, 6.— My programme,
8. — Meeting with General Kostenko, 9. — Departure for Moscow ;
Travelling acquaintances, Dr Alexeef and Count Bobrinsky, junr,
10. — Arrival in Moscow, and call on Count Leo Tolstoi, 11. —
Departure southwards, 1 2.

IT was a dirty night on February 19th, 1888, when
I left London for St Petersburg ; and my spirits
were somewhat in harmony with my environment. I
did not forget, when planning to enter Bokhara, that
Stoddart and Conolly, the last Englishmen there, had
been put to death by the Emir, and now I was medi-
tating Kashgar, where Schlagihtweit had by order of
vol. 1. 1

2 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

the ruler been killed. I will not say that I had any-
thing so strong as a foreboding that such might be
my own fate ; but I acted as if it were to be, and
so arranged my home affairs as if I were never to
return, hoping, of course, for the best.

Friday night is the time for packing off the Indian
mail. This delayed us at Cannon Street ; and the
rough state of the Channel after a hurricane increased
the delay, so that we arrived at Calais to find the
express gone, and the ground covered with snow.
Slow trains, and waiting at Cologne, brought me early
on Sunday morning, instead of Saturday, as planned,
to Berlin. This was to be my first halting-place, for
here I hoped to see Hung Ta-jen, the Chinese
Minister.

Going on Sunday evening to St George's English
Church, where they pounced upon me to preach, I
was not a little surprised to see in the porch, and
afterwards at the service, a Chinaman in full costume
and pigtail, who, though not a member of the Legation,
gave me sundry pieces of minor information anent
thereto, and I drove there on Monday morning by
appointment.

A change had been made only a few weeks previously
in the Chinese diplomatic arrangements. Formerly,
the Minister who resided in London looked also after
Chinese interests at St Petersburg, and the Minister
at Paris had Berlin under his charge. Now London
and Paris are under one diplomatic Minister, and
Berlin and St Petersburg under another.

I therefore showed his Excellency what had been
given me by the Minister in London, told him what I
received when going to Kuldja before, and said that
as I was now about to pass through Russia, to which

FROM LONDON TO MOSCOW. 3

he had been recently accredited, I begged of him also
a letter, and if possible an open one. An open letter,
he observed, was not necessary — my passport would
be sufficient — but he would give me a letter to the
Governor-General of Hi. The ambassadorial seal on
this, he said, would be useful, and it should be sent to
me on the morrow.

On the day following the promised letter arrived by
the hand of an English-speaking servant, and I left
the Central Hotel in Berlin the same night for Russia.
My luggage, having been booked through to St
Petersburg, had preceded me, and I wrote from
Cologne to the officials of the Russian Custom-house
explaining why my baggage would appear without its
owner.

On arriving, therefore, at Wirballen, I was expected,
and met with nothing but smiles and every possible
assistance, which was very gratifying, seeing that I
had more than 3 cwt of luggage in eight cases, the
extra carriage of which had already cost me more
than half the price of my ticket. Besides these eight
packages I had sent 19 others by sea to Batoum.
Thus my total luggage weighed already 1 6 cwt.

Most English travellers rush from the German
frontier to the Russian capital without breaking the
journey. I did the same three times without knowing
what I lost thereby. On the present occasion, after
travelling through the night, I determined to stop for
a day at Pskoff, which I did, and arrived at eight
o'clock on the following morning at St Petersburg.

The objects that took me to the Russian capital
might be termed diplomatic, administrative, and
financial. The first thing to be asked for, and that
of prime importance, was permission to travel as far

4 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA

as possible towards Kuldja by the new Trans-Caspian
railway. Not that this was the only way of reaching
Kuldja from St Petersburg, for there was the summer
route of rail, river, and road by which I proceeded
there before, and the post route, through Orenburg
and the Syr-daria province ; but on both these routes
frost and snow were now supreme. Accordingly, a
few hours after my arrival, I called at the British
Embassy, and found Sir Robert Morier ready to help
in every way.

I had, besides, the advantage of acquaintance with
his Excellency M. Pobedonostzeff, the Chief Pro-
curator of the Holy Synod. To this gentleman I
drove next, and received a welcome. He had seen
my Through Central Asia, then recently published ;
and, the Emperor having intimated his pleasure to
accept a copy, I told the Procurator I had brought
it to St Petersburg.

The proper person through whom the presentation
should have been made was the Minister for Foreign
Affairs, but M. Pobedonostzeff volunteered, without
further ceremony, to send the copy direct. I for-
warded it to him that afternoon ; it was sent to the
palace in the evening, and at midnight his Majesty-
sent to M. Pobedonostzeff a kind message of ap-
preciative thanks. As for my needed permissions,
M. Pobedonostzeff handed me over to his assistant,
M. Sabler, the Secretary to the Synod, and on the
morrow we set to work with a will.

I called, alone, on M. Pleve, Assistant to the
Minister of the Interior, who, if I did not remember
him, speedily showed that he had not forgotten me ;
for, opening a drawer, he drew forth my portrait, which
I had presented to him when, six years before, he was

FROM LONDON TO MOSCOW, 5

in the police department. He was good enough to
say that he appreciated my works on Russia as of
scientific value, promised me another open letter such
as I had been furnished with on previous occasions,
and added that he would write to the several depart-
ments and do all he could to forward my wish to
travel by the new railway.

I had also to call on sundry persons — scientific,
literary, and otherwise — for introductions, information,
and advice. Dr Bretschneider, who spent many years
at the Russian Legation in Peking, has published
several interesting books on the geography of Central
Asia as known to the Chinese in mediaeval times.
I was glad, therefore, to call upon this savant and
sinologue, and talk of some of the places I was
about to visit.

Running hither and thither left little time for sight-
seeing or social intercourse. I was present one evening
at a meeting of the Imperial Geographical Society,
which was well attended, for public meetings in Russia
are rare; but it struck me as tame and somewhat
gloomy by comparison with the gatherings of our
Geographical Society in London.

On another evening I dined at the British Embassy,
where Sir Robert Morier was rejoicing in an excep-
tionally able Russian-speaking staff. Amongst the
party I met Lord (now the Duke of) Fife and
Colonel Herbert, the Military attache, a Mr Harford,
and some others. Sir Robert promised to get me
official letters to the Russian consuls at Kuldja and
Kashgar, and to add one from himself to Governor-
General Rosenbach at Tashkend. From various other
sources also promises of introductions were received,
and my way was becoming clearer, though I dared

6 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

not yet take for granted that I might do all I wished
in proceeding by the Trans-Caspian railway.

A few days after seeing M. Plev6, I had taken a
letter from M. Sabler to M. Vlangali, the Assistant-
Minister for Foreign Affairs, who asked me to write
definitely what I wanted, and he would then try to
get me the needed permissions. Accordingly, in
addition to the railway journey, I asked that, if it
should for any reason seem desirable, after entering
Chinese Turkistan, for me to return to Russia instead
of proceeding south to India, I might have the option
of crossing the Pamirs into Ferghana.

Some thought that in this I had asked a hard thing
and had better withdraw it, since no Englishman had,
up to that time, been allowed so to do ; and no answer
coming for a day or two, I feared this might partly
account for the silence ; but soon it seemed that the
carriage for the Minister of War blocked the way,
inasmuch as he had not answered M. Plev£'s letter.

M. Pleve had, however, heard favourably from
Prince Dondukoff- Korsakoff, then Lieutenant of the
Caucasus, as to my crossing the Caspian, and as
the Prince happened to be staying, as I was, at the
Hotel d'Angleterre, I waited on him. He had lately
been reading my Through Siberia, gave me an ex-
cellent reception, and promised all I asked for; told
me whom to see at Tiflis ; and for General Annenkoff,
the constructor of the Trans-Caspian line, he gave me
his card with the following words thereon: "Prince
Dondukoff-Korsakoff, Aide-de-Camp Gdniral, recotn-
mande chaleureusement a la bienveillance et aux soins
du Gdndral Anncnkoff, Dr Lansdell si connu par ses
voyages, et ses sympathies pour la Russie."

I then went all in a glow to General Obrucheff, the

FROM LONDON TO MOSCOW. ?

Chief of the Staff of the Minister for War, but was
received at first, I thought, with martial rigour and
without a smile or anything that savoured of the milk
of human kindness, being formally and coldly asked
what I wanted. Having briefly replied, I was told

GENERAL L. H. ANMENKOFF.

that I must make out my line of march, since it might
be necessary in some places to divert my course. I
had never before been asked to do such a thing, and
did not know whether to suspect a trap wherein to
catch and defeat my plans, or the furnishing a clue
whereby my steps might be watched,

8 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

I was conducted through room after room and passage
after passage of that huge building the "Etat Major" to
what I now suppose was the head office of the Asiatic
section, where, among several officers, I was seated
at a table with paper and pens that revived the long-
passed anxieties of college examinations.

I thought it would not do to be too general in
my statements, lest vagueness should leave room for
suspicion that I was keeping something in the back-
ground, nor too minute, lest, if I did not hereafter keep
exactly to the programme, I might be charged with
breaking faith. So I wrote as follows —

"St Petersburg, ^*"f ? f3n/' 1888.
March 6th,

" I expect to leave St Petersburg to-morrow, or
soon after, for Moscow ; to stay not more than a
week (for banking arrangements, etc.), then proceed
direct to Batoum ; from Batoum to Tiflis (stay 2
or 3 days), then to Baku and Askhabad (stay 1
or 2 days, perhaps), Merv (2 or 3 days), Charjui
(1 or 2 days, to get, if possible, fishes, pheasants,
etc., for specimens), Bokhara (about a week, to see
places once again that I visited in 1882), Samarkand
(3 or 4 days), Tashkend (about a week, to pur-
chase various necessaries), Vierny (2 or 3 days,
to receive my luggage, sent forward from Batoum),
Kuldja. I hope to arrive at Kuldja by May 1st (n.s.),
and at Urumtsi by June 1st (n.s.), there to meet my
English interpreter into Chinese. If news reaches me
that he arrives earlier, I shall hasten forwards ; if I
learn that he will come later, then I need not go
through Turkistan quite so fast. I should like to
arrive at Yarkand by September ist, and cross the

FROM LONDON TO MOSCOW, 9

Himalayas, and it is only in case of accident, sickness,
or something important and unforeseen, that I should
wish to return to Russia from Kashgar to Ferghana.
"(Signed) Henry Lansdell, D.D."

This declaration had now to be translated into
Russian by one of the officers present, and I mean-
while had time to breathe and observe, though my
spirits were not high. Every face was strange to
me, but one officer in a general s uniform spoke as
if I were not entirely unknown to him. He was short
in stature, sallow in complexion, and I could not make
out whether I was speaking to one who had power
to decide the matter, or whether he was collecting
and preparing information about me to submit to a
council, presumably sitting in the adjoining room.

Presently something revealed his name — Kostenko
— and my thermometer began to rise. Could it be,
I asked, the author of The Turkistan Region, whose
book, whilst I was writing Russian Central Asia, was
scarcely out of my hands ? It was the very same, and
I saw one whom, quite apart from the present business,
it gave me the greatest delight to meet, for we were
fellow- writers upon the same ground. He recognised
me as such, knew my volumes, told me he was chief
of the Asiatic section, and volunteered that if I got
into any difficulty I might telegraph to him.

My spirits now were jubilant, and spread to the
officers near; for when they became acquainted with
my projected journey one of them said they were quite
excited. What was better, they brought in Captain
Grombchevsky, who had recently made the journey
from Kashgar to Khokand, and who gave me much
pertinent information.

io CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Looking round, I noticed on the wall a map of the
region about the head-waters of the Oxus, and com-
prising much of the territory I was going to. It was
newer and better than any I had seen, and like a
spoiled child I wanted it, and asked where a similar
one could be purchased. I was told that " it was not
on sale," being, I suppose, " secret and confidential."
Some whispering, however, went on between one and
another, and then I was asked to accept a copy, which
I congratulate myself upon possessing.

It was presently intimated that the letter desired
would be given, and thus before I left the " Etat
Major " I had received all I had asked for, and more
than all, for General Mirkhovitz favoured me with an
invitation I gladly accepted for the morrow, to meet
Madame Mirkhovitz, and see from the windows of the
House of the Staff a parade of troops before the
Emperor.

On the day following, March 9th, after taking lun-
cheon with Princess Lieven, who had heard of my
being in St Petersburg, and sought me out at the
Bible Society, I left for Moscow.

u A good name " Solomon affirms to be better than
riches, and a fellow-passenger in the train seeing mine
on the label of my portmanteau, forthwith claimed
acquaintance on the ground that when recently in
England he was to have had an introduction to me.

This little incident gave me a pleasant travelling
companion and occasional interpreter ; my fellow-
passenger being Dr P. Alexeef, who had lately been
studying the temperance question in America, and in
England had heard of me at the Church of England
Temperance Society.

On being addressed by another passenger in the

FROM LONDON TO MOSCOW, n

same carriage, a young soldier in uniform, I asked
where he had learned such excellent English.

" Near Edinburgh/' said he.

" Why, then," I replied, "you must be one of the
sons of Count Bobrinsky ? " to which he answered in
the affirmative, but appeared rather surprised till I
gave my name, and mentioned my having met his
family in London.

The young Count and some of his sisters were on
their way to a wedding in the family of Count Leo
Tolstoi, upon whom Dr Alexeef proposed that we
should call to talk upon matters teetotal.

Accordingly, after a somewhat uncomfortable night
in a second-class sleeping carriage, we reached Moscow,
and I accompanied my friend to the study of the
novelist, who recently had taken up the temperance
crusade and was trying to work it in Russia, where,
notwithstanding the crying need of it, the movement
has reached only to the stage at which it remained
some years in England, when silly people dismissed
the matter with a laugh or a sneer, but failed to recog-
nise their lack of philanthropy and self-denial in doing
nothing to oppose a curse which ruins so many.

Understanding that I was going to Chinese Turki-
stan to circulate the Scriptures, the Count said he
envied my work and would gladly go too, but for his
wife and a dozen or so of children, some of whom we
presently met round the family samovar ; and thus
finished a pleasant visit to the house of this celebrated
Russian nobleman.

On the next day I preached at the English Church,
and on Monday was no more successful than I had been
in St Petersburg in making banking arrangements for
Kashgar. I determined, therefore, to push forward on

12 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

the Tuesday, but news came that the line southwards
was snow-blocked.

The same afternoon, on the introduction of Madame
Alexeef, I drank tea with Princess Mestchertsky, and
afterwards had some hours of quiet rest, for, sooth to
say, the incessant strain upon mind and body of the
previous three months, in preparing, planning, and
packing, had sent me away from London much
fatigued. Then, what with the excessive cold, con-
tinued worries, and the water of the capital relaxing
my physical powers still more, I reached Moscow so
weak and weary that I requested Dr Alexeef to pre-
scribe for me.

He, however, said there was nothing organically
wrong, that my condition was merely the result of
fatigue and change of atmosphere, and that with less
strain recovery would soon follow, which, I am thankful
to say, was speedily the case.

CHAPTER II.

FROM MOSCOW TO THE CASPIAN.

Railway dangers ahead; Pleasant fellow-passengers, and offers of
hospitality, 13. — Arrival at Kursk ; Arrival and enforced stoppage
at Kharkof, 14. — Former visit to town prison, 15. — Departure
from Kharkof, and arrival in Crimea, 16. — Improved weather at
Sevastopol ; Sunday service, 17. — Departure for Batoum ; H.B.M.
Consul ; Departure across Caucasus, and arrival at Tiflis ; Sir
Drummond Wolff and Col. Stewart ; Presentation of introductory
letters, 18. — Dr Radde and M. Hedjouboff ; Departure from Tiflis
to Baku, 20.

WHEN ready to journey southwards to the
Crimea, there were afloat ugly rumours and
warnings of trains being stopped and snowed up for
days together, to the great inconvenience of passengers
not provisioned for such little emergencies. I therefore
looked to the commissariat, and as a concession to my
jaded condition indulged in a first-class ticket, which
took me away from Moscow at all events in comfort,
a snowstorm notwithstanding.

One of my fellow-passengers was a pleasant Russian
lady, daughter of an ambassador, who in the course
of the day not only offered help in translation, but
before we parted invited me to pay her a visit at her
country house. This generously offered hospitality
was of a piece with that I had received on the same

i4 CHINESE CEN1RAL ASIA.

line on a previous occasion, when happening, near
Tula, to meet Prince Dmitry Obolensky ; and it is
illustrative of the kindness with which educated
Russians hasten to receive an English stranger.

From Moscow Tula is only 120 miles distant, but
this took us at least six hours to accomplish. We
passed through a uniform undulating plain, traversed
by low hills with little wood, and no remarkable
scenery, but having boundless cornfields and meadows,
for the province is one of the best cultivated and most
populous in the empire. The chief railway stations are
Podolsk and Serpukhov, the latter possessing a large
river traffic, some tanneries, and calico works.

We were timed to arrive at the station of Tula about
six o'clock in the afternoon, and allowed a quarter of an
hour for .refreshment, after which I set about making
myself comfortable for the night. In this there was
every prospect of success, for I had the compartment
all to myself, and it was furnished in a manner than
which we have nothing better, if so good, in England.
Our next important stopping-place was Orel, passed
in the middle of the night, and early next morning I
awoke to find that we were at Kursk, but only about
350 miles from Moscow, the train being shunted into
a siding because the road some few stations beyond
was blocked by snow.

On arriving at Kharkof, which was only 1 50 miles
from Kursk, but took about eight hours, it was an-
nounced that no trains were yet running southwards,
which did not greatly disappoint me, for I was glad
of an enforced stoppage, and drove to the Hotel de
1' Europe.

My numerous packages were somewhat suggestive
perhaps of commercial pursuits, since, on asking for a

FROM MOSCOW TO THE CASPIAN. 15

room, the waiter took me to a huge, grandly furnished
apartment, which I said was too large.

" But," said the man, evidently mistaking me for a
commercial traveller, " will you not want to exhibit
your patterns?"

He then appeared quite disappointed at not letting
his show-room, and landed me in a much less preten-
tious chamber, where I determined on the morrow to
read, write, and rest.

Kharkof has a population of 160,000, of whom I
presume an appreciable number must be Germans,
since I remember, on a previous visit, attending the
Lutheran Church and calling upon the pastor. It was
during that same visit, on my way to the Caucasus,
that I first made the acquaintance of Prince Dondukoff-
Korsakoff. He was at that time Governor-General,
and gave me permission to visit the town prison and
distribute copies of the Scriptures.*

* My notes, taken on the spot, record "352 prisoners in 48 rooms,
including 22 cells. Cells of political prisoners (of whom there were 29
under trial) are large ; food and accommodation better than in the case
of criminals ; and politicals have more than one hour a day for exercise.
The amount of daily bread for each prisoner is two and a half pounds,
Russian. Kvas, or small beer, is allowed ad libitum? "

In the punishment ward were five men, who a few days previously
had attempted to escape, by making a ladder of their bedding with which
they scaled the wall close to a sentry, who was also under arrest. One
of those under correction came to the door, and through the hole in it
spat at us defiantly.

Corporal punishment was not allowed, the dark cell being the severest
form of correction, and even that might not extend beyond six days.
The sick list stood at 52, but I am not sure whether this might not have
represented the remnants of a former regime, inasmuch as they spoke
of none now being there for a longer term than three years.

My notes mention no library or books for the prisoners. Probably I
found none, and as a friend of mine had offered to bear the expense,
I asked the General if he would allow me to place a copy of the New
Testament in each room of every prison under his charge. He thanked
me for the proposal, entered readily into my plans, asked me to write

16 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

I was attempting nothing of this kind in Kharkof
on the present occasion, and did not leave the hotel
until the next evening, when it was announced that the
line farther south was cleared.

Kharkof is at the head of three main routes to the
Sea of Azof, to Odessa, and the Crimea ; but no trains
had been running south for several days. It was not
surprising, therefore, that on reaching the station con-
fusion prevailed. I asked for a ticket for Sevastopol,
and, without looking carefully at what was given me,
handed it to the baggage clerk, whereupon it was
discovered only just in time that my luggage was
registered for Rostoff, and put in a train which was on
the point of departure. This would have separated
me and my belongings, on our respective arrivals, a
trifle of 400 miles, and perhaps delayed me a week,
so that I was not a little thankful to get the mistake
rectified.

At length I found myself in a through sleeping
carriage to the Black Sea. The distance to be
traversed was nearly 500 miles, through a dull, flat,
snow-covered country without a station of interest
until we reached Baghchiserai, a name which calls to
mind the days when the Tatars of Central Asia
pushed their conquests into Russia, and made also the
Crimea their own.

my wishes and directions, which he promised to see carried out, and
then volunteered, for some reason I did not understand, to publish my
letter in the Journals.

It only remained, therefore, to calculate the number required. He
was Governor-General of six provinces or more, in which were six
Government or capital towns, with 150 rooms in each for what we should
call county prisoners, besides which there were 200 rooms for Govern-
ment prisoners. Altogether, therefore, I sent to him on the following
day, for his prisons and hospitals, 2,700 tracts, pictures, and journals,
and ordered to follow 1 ,500 New Testaments.

FROM MOSCOW TO THE CASPIAN. 17

Although the line south of this was clear of snow,
the train was six hours late ; but we were entering a
milder climate. My seven previous visits to Russia
had all been in summer, and I had looked forward
with pleasure to seeing St Petersburg in its winter
dress. Perhaps in my fatigued condition I did not do
so to advantage ; at any rate experience compels me
to pronounce one winter visit enough, and it was a
relief, when awaking the next morning but one in the
Crimea, to be able to look once more upon Mother
Earth, whose face had been snow-veiled all the way
from Calais, now 3,000 miles in the rear.

Abundance of mud and water covered the plains,
but as we approached the lofty rocks of Inkerman
surroundings improved, and the air of Sevastopol was
so balmy as to render agreeable a drive through the
dry streets in an open carriage with one's fur coat
thrown open.

Happening to pass our Consulate, and thinking it
was Saturday morning, it occurred to me to call on
Captain Harford, with whom I was acquainted, and
offer to conduct a service on the morrow. I. was a
day out in my reckoning, however, for it was already
Sunday, but it was early, and whilst I went to the
hotel and made preparations, notice was sent round
by Mr Grierson, the British Pro-Consul, with the
result of gathering a congregation of about 20
persons, who met at the Consulate.

An English .service is a rare thing in Sevastopol,
there being no chaplain, and it was entered into with
a zest that spoke of appreciation. I was, however,
told of one stumbling-block to a larger attendance
— namely, that English steamers come into port and
employ labour on Sundays ; for some London firms,

vol. 1. 2

18 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

who would not dream of opening their offices or
employing their clerks in the "City" on a Sunday,
do permit their captains when abroad to do so. It
is proper, however, to add that in some cases the
captains themselves are at fault, and act thus in direct
contravention to their employers' orders.

On the third day after my arrival at Sevastopol,
Mr Grierson, having laden me with such things as I
had need of, accompanied me with his wife and little
ones to the ship. We left the port about eleven in
the morning, and by five in the afternoon reached
Yalta, which I had seen before, so that I was not
tempted to land ; but on reaching Kertch on the
following afternoon, I found time to call on our
Consul, Mr Hunt (whom I had met at Odessa in
1882), and to telegraph my coming to Batoum, where
we arrived, after a run of about 36 hours, early on
Friday morning, March 23rd.

The first person to meet me was my servant
Joseph, who had come from London by steamer with
the heavy baggage. Soon after Joseph came Mr D. R.
Peacock, at that time the Vice-Consul, and whose
brother I had met in Siberia. If pleasure had been
my pursuit, Mr Peacock would have prevailed upon
me to visit a native (I think Ghurian) prince at his
castle in the mountains, to whom he had mentioned
my coming. But I felt obliged to content myself with
a view of Batoum, its picturesque mountains with
verdant slopes, its naphtha stores and oil waggons,
and the native bazaars.

Next morning we started for Tiflis, and having
reached our destination late on Saturday evening, we
put up at the Hotel de Londres, where I was glad to
find my friend Colonel Stewart, and Sir Drummond

FROM MOSCOW TO THE CASPIAN, 19

Wolff and suite, on the way to take up . their respec-
tive appointments in Persia. Like myself, they were
seeking information as to the movements of steamers
on the Caspian ; and finding that I had four days to
wait, it seemed better to remain at the capital than to
go forward to Baku.

The number of Englishmen at Tiflis was less than
I had seen on the previous Sunday at Sevastopol, and
they have no Sunday service in English, so we had
one in the hotel ; and I visited in the afternoon a
German Bible-class, attended by a dozen youths and
conducted by a Swede named Hoijer, to whom I had
an introduction from Finland.

I had also a dozen introductions to other persons in
Tiflis. On the chance of my meeting Russian officers
with whom they had served on the Afghan Boundary
Commission, Sir West Ridgeway and Colonel Holdich
had given me letters, and these brought me into
contact with Colonel Paul Kuhlberg, Chief of the
Topographical Stafif, who seemed to cherish a pleasant
recollection of his English comrades, and by whose
help I got some excellent maps of the Trans-Caspian
region.

He kindly invited me to meet General Zelenoy,
another celebrity in connection with the Afghan
Boundary Commission, and General Jdanow, Chief of
the Etat Major, at dinner. These gentlemen were
much interested in my projected journey to Chinese
Turkistan, and wished to bespeak a paper from me,
if I came back that way, at the Tiflis branch of the
Imperial Geographical Society.

Prince Dondukoflf-Korsakoflf, Lieutenant of the
Caucasus, had desired me to call upon his locum
tenens, General Sheremetiefif, which I did, and I was

20 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

also successful in finding at home Dr Radde, the
founder and curator of the excellent and well-arranged
Tiflis Museum.

Dr Radde was kind enough to give me sundry
hints as to what I might hope to do in collecting
specimens of fauna, and I was indebted also for various
attentions and assistance to M. George Hedjouboff,
an Armenian, to whom I had an introduction.

I took occasion before leaving Tiflis to purchase of
the Bible Society a few copies of the Scriptures in
Hebrew. I also found an agreeable photographer
in M. Yermakoff, who accompanied me to make a
trial of my apparatus, and developed for me the
negatives with such success as gave me hope for the
future, when, beyond the Caspian, I should be thrown
on my own resources.

We left Tiflis a little before ten on Friday night for
Baku, expecting to cover 340 miles in 17 hours —
not a furious rate of travelling, but quick in com-
parison with the four days required for the journey
in 1882, when, before the line was open to the public,
I travelled the distance in a horse-box. That
journey, however, gave opportunities for seeing the
country which darkness now denied.

For the last 50 miles of the way the train runs
along the coast of the Caspian, for the most part
through a desert, in the midst of which we reached
Baku, about three o'clock on Saturday afternoon.

CHAPTER III.

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV.

"Wanted" by the Police-master; Call on the Governor, 21. — Com-
forts on steamer to Uzun Ada; Landing at railway terminus,
22. — Trans-Caspian stations to oasis of Akhal Tekke, 25. — Kizil
Arvat, 26. — Arrival at Geok Tepe, 28. — My coming to Askhabad
expected, 30. — Continuation of journey to Dushak, 32. — Arrival at
Merv, 35. — Hospitality of Colonel Alikhanoff ; Modern Merv, 36. —
Oriental carpets and embroidery, yj. — Alikhanoff s successful
administration ; Quiet and order of Panjdeh, 38. — A visit to Old
Merv, 39. — Ruins on site of Merv ; Arab and Persian remains,
41. — Russian annexation of Merv, 43. — How brought about, 44. —
Liberation of slaves, 46.

THERE was little to detain us at Baku, for I had
previously seen its oil wells and the temple of
the fire-worshippers. Notice came, however, to the
Grand Hotel that, my passport having been sent to
the authorities, the police-master required to see me.
Now I had heard of this man, rightly or wrongly, that
he was obstructive to English travellers, and apt to
give them trouble ; so I thought it better to take the
wind out of his sails by paying a visit to his chief,
which I accordingly did, and received from the
acting Governor, M. Osit Augustovitch Beneslavsky,
a welcome, and an invitation to dinner.

As Sir Drummond Wolff and Colonel Stewart, more-

22 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

over, were expected to arrive in the afternoon and
start at night by steamer, they were also to be invited.
" Ask them to come," said the Governor, " sans
ctrdmonie — en petit costume de voyage." Neither of
the travellers, however, was thus to be seduced in the
midst of a journey to something like a dinner-party.
I had therefore to go alone, and found myself the only
guest.

The local authorities were very obliging in providing
on the steamer for the comfort of the English travel-
lers. The Ambassadors party was proceeding south
to Resht, and most, if not all, of the berths being taken,
some Russian passengers were, I believe, invited to
give up to the foreigners the accommodation which, by
priority of arrival, they had secured, whilst, in my own
case — proceeding east — I was accommodated, thanks
to the Governor's introduction, with a cabin for three.
The passage across the Caspian, in good weather, takes
only 20 hours for the 195 miles between Baku and
Uzun Ada, where we arrived on Tuesday at noon.

In my Russian Central Asia four chapters are
devoted to Turkmenia, so that for the general charac-
teristics of the country it may here suffice to say that
the train runs, from the Caspian to the Oxus, through
a desert that is enlivened by the four oases of Akhal,
Attek, Tejend, and Merv.

Uzun Ada, or " Long Island," is the terminus at
which the traveller arrives on the Caspian littoral, and
a more desolate landing-place I never beheld. Siberia
is a paradise to it. Nevertheless, one fellow-passenger,
looking on the bright side of things, observed to me
that less than ten years ago there was nothing on the
island but sand, whereas now there is a harbour, a rail-
way station, reservoirs of naphtha, va church, hospital,

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV. 23

doctors residence, and a few houses, these last having
been imported ready-made from Russia.

Not a blade of grass could I see, though it was
now the beginning of April, and two cows, wandering
amongst the water-carts near an enclosure behind the
station, suggested the reflection that, under similar
circumstances in England, they might be " run in " by
the police for going about " without any visible means
of support."

The train was not to start for six hours, but carriages
were sent to the shore end of the jetty to take pas-
sengers and luggage, there being no lack of Tatar
porters. I had heard at Tiflis of the prodigious
strength of these men, and at Baku one of them gave
proof of it by carrying on his back to the ship four of
my packages, weighing 2 J cwt, and then taking in his
hand a bag of \ cwt more.

At the station I fell at once on my feet, and received
the first of a succession of kindnesses and acts of
attention, that continued in Asiatic Russia till I passed
beyond the frontier.

Showing the letter of the Minister of the Interior to
a military officer on the platform, he bowed himself
" votre serviteur" as he meant to say ; but, his French
being rather shaky, he substituted "votre domestique"
and immediately assigned me for my three days'
journey a small compartment to myself, nor would he
allow me to be displaced when the conductor of the
train wished to turn me out in favour of some of his
friends.

We started about six in the evening, the train
crossing an embankment, about three-quarters of a
mile long, which connects the island with the main-
land, and then plunged into the desert, the chief

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV. 25

feature of which is sand, sand everywhere, without
water or food for man or beast.

At the first station, Mikhailovsk, at the head of
Balkan Bay, which was formerly the starting-point of
the line, and whither passengers were brought in craft
of light draught from Krasnovodsk, we reached the
Uzboi, one of the old beds by which the Oxus entered
the Caspian. The railway skirts this channel for
about 30 miles.

At the next station, Mulla Kara, we passed from
sand to an alluvial plain, and at the fourth station,
Bala Ishem, large tuns on wheels reminded us that
enormous quantities of water were distilled from the
brine of the Caspian at Mikhailovsk, and sent along
the line to the waterless districts, whilst at the same
place we were also reminded, by naphtha tanks or
trucks, like steam boilers on wheels, that the fuel of
our engine was not coal or wood, but petroleum refuse,
which is brought to Bala Ishem from oil wells in the
neighbourhood.

Near this place is a salt marsh, some 15 miles
long by half as broad, and also a salt station on the
branch line between Bala Ishem and the naphtha wells.
The night was passed in crossing this alluvial desert,
which was without inhabitants, even at the stations,
other than the railway officials. It is also without
water, except at the little village of Kazandjik, where
there is a potable spring and a little verdure.

And thus we went on for 140 miles to Ushak,
where the small station is surmounted by a tower
of observation, and where we arrived at sunrise.
Here the Muhammadans got out of the train to wash
themselves and pray, whilst the lark rose in the
heavens, as the poets will have it, to sing his hymn.

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Soon afterwards, we entered the oasis of Akhal
Tekke.

The first place of importance we stopped at was
Kizil Arvat.

At the next stopping-place, Kodj, about 20 miles
from the old fort of that name, neither inhabitants nor
water were visible, but the station was built of stone,
with a substantial tower of architectural pretensions,

KODJ STATION IN THE AKHAL TEKKE OASIS.

and presenting a good specimen of a Trans-Caspian
station of fourth-class rank.

From Kizil Arvat the railway runs nearly in a
straight line past half a dozen stations, through a
country not indeed desert, but bare of trees.

At Bami signs of cultivation were observable ; the
ground was scantily covered here and there with
spring verdure, and Turkoman children brought to
the train handfuls of deep red tulips, whose fragrance

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV.

was somewhat like that of the lily of the valley ; but
the villages, dependent on rivulets at the foot of

the mountains, were remote from the line and few
and far between.

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Passing three more stations brought us to the
vicinity of Durun, where there are a very unpretending
telegraph station, something between a Russian izba
and a Turkoman tent, and a ruined Tekke village
of mud houses, which gave a good idea of the local
native dwellings, the domed roofs being so constructed
probably for coolness, as are the huge domes erected

THE STATION AT CEOK TEPE.

over the ice-cellars, several of which may be seen in
approaching the Persian frontier.

Soon after midday we arrived at Geok Tepe, where
the train stopped long enough to allow of my scaling
the walls of the famous fortress whose defenders
offered such stubborn resistance to Skobelefif. The
wall in some places is completely broken down, but
enough remains to show what crude ideas of fortifica-
tion the Turkomans possessed.

Imagine a bank of earth 30 feet thick, finished on

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV.

the top with breast-high inner and outer walls, and
running for nearly three miles round a quadrilateral
area like that of Hyde Park or Blackheath, but with-
out their verdure, and you will have some idea of the
proportions of the " fortress " of Geok Tepe. Many

TEKJCE FORTRESS OF GEOK TEPE, SHOWING THE HOLES IN WHICH THE TURKOMANS HID
THEMSELVES FOR PROTECTION FROM THE RUSSIAN MISSILES.

holes were still visible, made perhaps by Russian
shells, or dug by the besieged as hiding-places from
the balls of the besiegers ; but there was not a
structure or building of any kind within. I saw there
only a few camels grazing on the scanty herbage kept
alive by a brook

3°

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Beyond Geok Tepe the train passed through a
somewhat richer country, and about four in the after-
noon we reached Askhabad.

Askhabad is the capital of the Trans-Caspian
province, a place, it is said, of 10,000 inhabitants,
including perhaps the soldiery, for whom there is
a military club and garden.

The market-place is exposed to the full glare of the
sun, but affords the visitor an opportunity of studying

RAILWAY STATIOft AT ASKHABAD.

Russian and native life together, whilst not far distant
is a Persian ice-cellar, built of rammed mud in the form
of a cone, such as I have not observed in other countries.
My coming to Askhabad was expected, officially —
probably, privately — certainly ; for on the evening of
my departure from Tiflis M. George Nicolaivitch
Milutin, entering the hotel and seeing my name on
the guest-board, wondered if it were that of the author
whose book he had read.

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV.

Seating himself at a dinner-table near me, and
scanning my countenance hard, he presently ventured
to introduce himself, saying that he should invite me
to drink wine with him, only that he had read that
I was an abstainer, and telling me that he had been
engaged on General AnnenkofTs staff on the Trans-
Caspian railway.

On learning that it was for that very region I was
to start in an hour or two, his friendliness at once rose

GARDEN OF THE MILITARY CLUB, ASKHABAD.

to the emergency. " I will telegraph," said he, " to
my friends to assist you " ; and, then and there, he
drafted a despatch to Colonel Alikhanoff and Count
Mouravieff at Merv, to General Annenkoff and others
of his friends, named Kulkevitch and Sabouroff, saying,
" The celebrated traveller Lansdell is leaving Tiflis to-
night for the Trans-Caspian region ; please help him."
This unexpected and unsought kindness, in addition

32 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

to other introductions, bore ample fruit, and I found
awaiting me at the Askhabad station Colonel LevashofT,
the acting Governor, who had brought to meet me
a countrywoman, Mrs Harfeld, married to a Russian
officer on the line, and a Finnish gentleman, M. Carl
Constantinovitch von Schultz, Controller-in-Chief of
the Trans-Caspian railway.

According to my official programme written at St
Petersburg, I expected to stay two or three days at
Askhabad, and they had prepared accordingly ; but I
afterwards determined to push on, and so my friends
did the next best thing by giving me a capital dinner
at the station, which is of first rank and European
proportions, and sped me forward, telegraphing my
approach to Colonel AlikhanofT at Merv.

About eight miles from Askhabad the train passes a
fine old ruined mosque at Anau, and over a tongue of
sand to Giaurs, which may be regarded as the end of
the Akhal oasis.

Then we traversed an alluvial desert to Baba-
Durmaz, between which and the next station, Artyk,
lies, somewhat to the north, a salt tract. Over a
portion of this the train passes, and enters beyond
Artyk the Attek oasis.

Stretching along the Persian mountains as far as
Sarakhs, the Attek, though not so long as the oasis
we had traversed, is greener and less bare of trees.
Its chief town is Luftabad, and there is a considerable
ruin at Shilgan, whilst the ardent lover of antiquity
who will make a pilgrimage to Sarakhs will be shown
the tomb of Cain.

The sixth stopping -place beyond Askhabad is
Dushak ; at present only a station with a few dwell-
ings for the officials and workmen and a pile or two

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV.

of firewood, but which has a certain importance in
British minds because, situated at 400 miles from

THE TOMB OF CAIN AT SARAKHS.

the Caspian, it is the nearest point to our Indian
railways, the distance from Dushak to the Afghan

vol. 1.

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA,

frontier being only as far as from London to
Doncaster.*

The line had run from the Caspian nearly straight
to the south-west, but at Dushak turned at a sharp
angle to the east, leaving the mountains in the rear,

~±T&<

STATION AT DUSHAK, THE FARTHEST POINT SOUTH, WHENCE THE RAILWAY MAY BE
CONTINUED TO THE AFGHAN FRONTIER.

and passing from the Attek oasis to that of the
Tejend.

* On my way homeward through India I ran up to Quetta and pushed
on to New Charaan, beyond the Khojak tunnel, to the extreme end of
the Indian line, on the southern frontier of Afghanistan ; whence to the
northern frontier just mentioned is about 500 miles, or the distance
from London to Aberdeen.

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV.

At last, after passing over an uncultivated district
for nearly 50 miles, towards the station Karab-Ata,
we entered the oasis of Merv. Here daylight found
us on the morning of the third day from the Caspian ;
and at length, about half-past eight, we steamed into
Merv station.

The commercial and native parts of the town are
situated on the left bank of the Murghab, where also

NEW tfRIDGE AT MERV.

is the railway station and its buildings. On the right
bank is the Turkoman inclosure called Kaushid Khan
Kala, within which are a dozen houses of brick, occu-
pied by civil and military officers, a temporary church,
and barracks.

The two portions are connected by a wooden rail-
way bridge, 150 feet long, of about a dozen spans,
the woodwork resting on piles driven into the sand ;
and across the bridge I drove in a station cab or

36 CHINESE CENTRAL AS 7A.

phaeton through the wide opening in the fortress
walls to the house of Colonel Alikhanofif, the Gover-
nor, or more accurately Nachalnik, or Chief of the
District.

The Colonel was busy in his garden, in which he
said he took great delight, though it had not long
been planted. Then, taking me indoors, he pointed
out that all his bedrooms were occupied, but that I
should be welcome to such accommodation as he
could offer, which was to be that of the best room
in the house by night and the run of the premises
by day.

Needless to say I thankfully accepted his hospitality ;
for though Merv possesses a third or fourth class
establishment, decorated in front with the Persian Lion
and Sun, and dubbed " The Imperial Hotel," yet I
was only too pleased to stay for a day or two with a
man of whom I had both written and read, and who
played so important a part in bringing about the
submission of the Mervis, and figured so prominently
during the labours of the Afghan Boundary Com-
mission.

The next acquaintance I made was Colonel
Mouravieff, who took me off the same morning
to the Turkoman bazaar, or market, then being
held, where from 3,000 to 5,000 persons assemble
twice a week, to deal in horses, asses, camels, and
sheep.

We mounted the walls of the fortress, which is similar
in character to that of Geok Tepe. After lunch we
visited the town that has sprung up since the foreign
occupation. I was much struck with the large number
of drinking-places, the stock-in-trade of the distilleries,
brandy, beer, and wine shops being more than double

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV.

that of all the grocers, pastrycooks, bakers, butchers,
and vendors of lemonade.*

One has a good opportunity to study certain features
of native life in the caravanserais or native inns of
Merv, where the men appear in sheepskin coats and
hats, and occasionally mounted on good Turkoman
horses, but more frequently on donkeys, their baggage
being carried on Bactrian camels. I was delighted
to find in the shops of Merv in April melons of the
last season, some of which we took home for dessert
to the Colonels house.

Here I observed that the Colonel, Moslem though
he was, provided wine for his guests, whilst abstaining
himself. It seemed also somewhat paradoxical to hear
him zealously advocating the building of a fine cathedral
at Merv. " We have so many thousand roubles," he
said, with the air of an enthusiastic member of a
church building committee, "but we must have more,
in order to erect such a building as will excite the
admiration and respect of the natives."

To a connoisseur in carpets and embroidery my
room was a perfect museum of Central Asian handi-
work. The long wall facing the windows was covered
in Oriental fashion with an immense Persian carpet, as
was the broad divan running along it, whilst suspended

• The figures were given me as follows, in roubles : —

Manufacturers

205,000

Distillery

10,560

Brickmakers

62,070

Brandy shops

29,000

Bokhara manufacturers

150,000

Wine shops .

82,000

Smallware shops .

80,260

Beer shops .

45.700

Iron shops .

12,320

Eating-houses

52,800

Timber shops

36,000

Tea-houses .

19,760

Transport Company

35>ooo

Inns

60,500

Grocers

30,670

Baths .

18,000

Pastrycooks .

8,500

Caravanserai

22,500

Bakers
Butchers

18,000

Lodging-houses

7,800

12,500

Seltzer and lemonade .

4,000

ubles

1,002,940

38 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

from the cornice all round the room was an ornamental
hanging of tassel work, specially made for the Colonel
by the Sariks of Panjdeh. At the end where I slept
the wall and divan were adorned with exquisite Tekke
carpets and tent bands, with abundance of cushions
of Bokhara velvet, displaying various specimens of
Central Asian silk embroidery.

In excellent agreement with all this, each of the upper
window curtains consisted of a rich Bokhariot saddle-
cloth embroidered in silver and gold. The floor was
covered with Persian carpets, and over the Colonel's
study door were hangings of Indian embroidered silk.

But more interesting than these was their owner,
who, fortunately for me, spoke French, and gave me
a good deal of information concerning the affairs of
Turkmenia. An Asiatic by descent, a Muhammadan
by birth, and of the same religion as those over whom
he rules, Colonel Alikhanofif appeared to be the right
man in the right place. In a surprisingly short time
he had reduced to order the most turbulent and blood-
thirsty of the tribes of Central Asia. Not more than
four or five cases of robbery a month, he told me,
came before him, but sometimes as many as five or
six murders — the frequent result of quarrels. He
gave me several instances of his rough-and-ready
fashion of administering punishments and rewards,
by which he seemed to have quieted and gained the
goodwill of the people.

In harmony with the foregoing was the testimony of
a Russian Colonel who dined with us, and had ridden
on the morning of the same day from Yulatan, on the
Murghab, in the direction of Panjdeh, where he was
administering a district of 30,000 persons, who quite
recently were robbers and thieves by profession, but

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV. 39

amongst whom he was living as the only European,
and undefended, save by eight native djiguitts, or
mounted attendants.

This Colonel told me that at Panjdeh he had entered
some ancient catacombs of the fire-worshippers, dated
back vaguely to the time of Zoroaster, one of them
having receptacles for 200 bodies. Of these receptacles
he saw 40, and showed me a sketch of the entrance to
one of the catacombs.

The great event of the morrow was to be a drive to
Old Merv, which for a traveller to omit is as culpable
as to visit London and not see Westminster Abbey.
For this the Colonel kindly ordered a carriage and
mounted attendants, arranging that we should lunch
on the way at the historic dwelling of Yusuf Khan,
one of the four who negotiated the submission of
Merv ; and word was* sent to his mother, in whose
tent the critical meeting was held, that an Englishman
desired the favour of an interview.

I was accompanied by Count Mouravieff and M.
Guillaume, who was teaching the Colonel the French
language, and in other ways making himself useful.
It was a bright spring morning when we started, and
pleasantly warm. A drive of two or three hours
brought us to the aul or collection of tents of Yusuf,
and whilst lunch was being prepared I looked about
the premises and picked up information.

Presently we were regaled with a dostarkhan — that
is, a tablecloth — and with something on it in the
shape of meat, as well as (though tell it not in Mecca!)
wine and vodka to drink. Lemonade, too, and tea
were served, the tables being turned for the nonce, the
Muhammadan drinking wine and the Christian water.

In the course of conversation it transpired that

40 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Yusuf Khan, though only 20 years old, had
under his authority 2,000 "souls" (that is to say,
men, for the Russians do not reckon women as
" souls "), with the rank of a Russian captain and
pay of ,£120 a year. His mother, Gur Jemal, widow
of Nur Verdi Khan, was enjoying a pension of ^100
a year, and, in addition, she had received from the
Emperor handsome presents of clothing and jewels.

Arrayed in these, she received us after lunch, and
our eyes were dazzled by a khalat, or dress of silver
and gold brocade, edged with sable fur. Her waist-
band was of gold and turquoise, and she wore a
necklace of precious stones, as well as numerous
rings ; whilst her head was covered with three
handkerchiefs.

Her age was said to be 47, but, like all
Turkoman women thus far advanced, she appeared
very much more — 60 at the least, though her good
looks had not quite left her. She had less to say
than to show, behaved with becoming dignity, and
on her thanking us for our visit, I felt glad to have
been favoured with admission to the presence of a
Turkoman lady.

She is considered rich, which Alikhanoflf accounted
for by her possessing a canal of water. " When,"
said he, " the Russians wished to reward me I received
the first-class Cross of St George " (of which, by the
way, I fancy he is the only man in the empire to
possess two), "but when thfe Turkomans wished to
recompense Gur Jemal they gave her not only acres
of land, which are plentiful enough, but a canal of
water to keep them fruitful."*

* Hence we see the propriety of Achsah asking of her father as dowry,
not only a field, but springs to water it. Joshua xv. 18, 19 ; Judges i. 14, 1 5.

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV. 41

We had still some few miles to drive, our coachman
being not too nice in the choice of his roads, where
road indeed there was none. Our party was now
increased by the Khan and several more djiguitts,
who rushed forward to show and clear the way.
Hitherto I had suspected that those words in the
"Burial of Sir John Moore" —

"The sods with our bayonets turning,"

were a poet's trope, but on our way they were very
closely illustrated ; for, coming to a ditch deepened
by recent rains, the djiguitts dismounted, turned their
swords into spades, and speedily levelled the ground
for our vehicle to pass. On nearer approach to the
ruins we were provided with saddle horses, and in
this way viewed the lions.

No less than four cities have flourished on or near
the site of what is now called Old Merv. The most
ancient is called Giaour Kala, and is said to date from
the time of Zoroaster.

The ruins of the city next in antiquity are called
Iskander Kala, after Alexander the Great, who made
it one of his colonies. To this Merv Christianity was
introduced about 200 a.d. It subsequently became
the seat of an archbishop, and in 420 was made a
metropolitan see. Of these two cities little now re-
mains above ground except some high walls, though
one cannot but surmise that the spade might bring
to light some antiquarian treasures.

The third of the cities alluded to was built by the
Arabs who conquered the place in the seventh century,
and of this Merv, now called Sandjar Kala, there re-
main two or three monuments indicative of considerable
greatness.

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA,

The structures mentioned are the chief survivors of
the Arab city. In the sixteenth century the Persians

'j < ■ r

took the place and built a city, the walls of which,
flanked with semicircular towers and possibly measuring

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV. 43

from two to three miles round, are now called Bairam
Ali, and here it was we found the ruins most plentiful,
though few, if any of them, could be called beautiful.
A distant view of Bairam Ali presented to the visitor
a gateway of fine proportions, though looking very
dilapidated from the rear. On approaching the
principal entrance to the citadel, the flanking towers
were seen to be of sun-dried brick, as were also the
remains of the lesser mosque.

Our host and chaperon, being determined that we
should not starve, regaled us among the ruins with
sweetmeats and drinks, as well as conversation, so
that before I left Merv I was much pleased to have
had the opportunity of getting at first-hand, and from
various persons who took part therein, sundry pieces
of information concerning its annexation.

When England was startled in February 1884 by
the telegram received in St Petersburg from Askha-
bad to the effect that the Turkomans had declared
themselves subjects of the Czar, there was no lack
of English newspapers charging Russia with perfidy
in having stolen Merv, whilst British hands were full
in Upper Egypt and incapable of interfering.

Personally, I never joined in this hue and cry : first,
for lack of what seemed to me adequate proof; and
next, because from what I had heard at Khiva, less
than twelve months before, of the lawless condition
of Merv, it seemed to me that the Russians had only
to wait, and Merv must fall into their hands without
their even asking for it.

The telegram stated that " this decision was arrived
at by the Turkomans of Merv because they were
assured of their incapability of governing themselves."
This, in England, was laughed at, but was strictly

44 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

in keeping with what I had heard from the Khan
of Khiva and others in the neighbourhood ; as also
with the testimony of the Baron Benoist-Mechin, who
visited Khiva six months after me, and, proceeding
thence to Merv, found, the Baron said, " such an
absence of all government that after our arrival in the
month of July we did not hesitate to write to General
Chernaiefif it seemed to us that the Merv oasis would
submit without fighting at no distant date " — which
is precisely what happened a few months later.

Accordingly, I felt unable, from such facts as had
come to my knowledge, to adopt and to write upon an
engraving which appeared in the Graphic of April
25th, 1885. I* represented the interior of a Turko-
man hut, copied from a photograph I lent to the
editor, whilst seated around were Turkoman chiefs
inserted from another of my photographs ; but there
was added also what was not in mine — a Russian
officer in the attitude of an envoy exhorting the chiefs
to submission, and for this I felt I could not with a
good conscience stand sponsor, having no proof that
such a conference had ever taken place.

So nearly, however, do truth and error often lie
together, that I afterwards learned the editor was
right, and so, too, was I.

The true story as to how the submission of Merv
was effected was given me as follows : — Colonel
Alikhanofif, as is well known, entered the Russian army
early in life, became major, and in 1875 was degraded
to the ranks for fighting a duel. In 1879 he took
part in the Turkoman campaigns, gradually rose again,
and in 1882, for a secret reconnaissance of the oasis of
Merv, was promoted to a captaincy.

It was not long after this that some Turkoman

A itu&siA* or

n&m**™*^*™*9******

^s% WOMEN, WITH SPINNING WHEEL.— A TEKKE BEAUTY IN FESTAL ARRAY.

Pag* 44*

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV. 45

raiders, approaching the Persian frontier near Askha-
bad, carried off some natives who were Russian
subjects, and their sheep. This could not, of course,
be allowed to pass unnoticed, and a volunteer was
called for who would undertake the difficult work of
proceeding to Merv, and demanding the restitution
of both persons and cattle.

Alikhanoff offered to go, and when warned of
danger and the possibility of losing his life, he per-
sisted, and finally started, but with a certain number
of soldiers, whom, if I mistake not, he left on the
borders of the Merv oasis, and proceeded alone to
play his game in his own way.

It was no part of his commission, so I was told,
to broach the question of annexation, but he saw
therein a means of regaining perhaps his old laurels,
and possibly fresh ones besides. Going from aul to
aul, he pointed out to this and the other chief that
a great power like Russia could not possibly allow
brigandage on her borders, and that the Turkomans
would do well to become Russian subjects.

Their apprehension, that they should be obliged to
give up their Muhammadanism, he was able to allay
by pointing out that his father before him and he,
too, though both Russian officers, had nevertheless
continued Muhammadans ; and other objections he
similarly met, speaking to them in their own tongue.

The lawlessness then prevalent inclined those who
had anything to lose to wish heartily for a better state
of things. To my own knowledge they had sent
three times to Khiva and Petro Alexandrovsk asking
for a Governor of their own nationality. But this
move had not been successful.

Some of them told Alikhanoff that, if they must

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

there certainly was not of room, my only companions
being my servant Joseph and a messenger whom
Colonel AlikhanofiTwas sending on business to Bokhara,
and who he thought might be useful on the way.

The first station eastwards is named after the neigh-
bouring ruins, Bairam Ali, where water is stored in a
tank alongside the railway, and supplied to the engine
from a tun raised on logs of wood. Between this and

RESERVOIR AT BAIRAM ALI, OR OLD MERV.

the next station, at a distance of about 27 miles from
Merv, the line enters upon the outer fringe of the most
terrible desert, I suppose, crossed by any railway in
the world.

This desert is not merely sandy, but of sand entirely,
with this additional drawback, that whereas the sands
on the coast of the Caspian may by labour be half
fixed, those near the Ox us are at the mercy of every
wind that blows. They cover the face of the country

FROM MERV TO THE OX US. 49

in barkhatiSy or sickle-shaped hills, varying in height
up to 100 feet.

In certain places plantations of bushes suitable to
the soil have been placed beside the railway ; but until
these grow it seems inevitable that from time to time,
after strong winds, the rails will need to be cleared as
after a snowstorm. It was by reason of this uncer-
tainty as to what might be the condition of the road
that our train, though arriving at Merv in the morning,
did not leave until nearly midnight, so as to traverse
the worst part of the sandy desert by day.

In the grey dawn of very early morning we reached
a station significantly named Pesky, in allusion to the
surrounding sand. Here we bade farewell to the few
tokens remaining of the Merv oasis, after which
sunrise found us at Repetek, where was a refresh-
ment station, with only brackish water for making tea,
and then we plunged in among the sand barkhans.
At Karaul-Kuyu no station was yet erected, but a
few tents pitched and a hut constructed of railway
sleepers, out of which the drifting sand was kept with
difficulty.

From the next station, Barkhan — again named after
its local surroundings — there was nothing visible all
round but sand-hills, whilst a more desolate outlook
than we had from the carriage windows in steaming
along could hardly be imagined.

Finally, about six miles west of the Amu-daria,
cultivation reappeared, with fortified mud houses and
walls and trees, the last somewhat larger than those of
Merv. We had now entered the oasis of Charjui, a
narrow strip of cultivated land belonging to Bokhara
on the west bank of the Oxus ; and at ten o'clock
we arrived at the station Amu-daria, thus completing a

vol. 1. 4

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

journey of 670 miles from the Caspian in 60 hours of
actual travel.

The local railway potentate for this part of the line
was Prince Khilkoff, who had been kind enough to
send to the station General AnnenkofFs carriage to

RAILWAY DEP6T AT AMU-DAR1A.

take me to be the guest of Colonel Nicholas TcharykofiT,
the Russian Political Agent (or " Resident," as the
English would call him) in Bokhara, who for the
moment was laid up here with a broken ankle.

The Colonel spoke English fluently, having received
a part of his early education in Edinburgh, and proved

FROM MERV TO THE OX US. 51

to be one of the most polished and gentlemanly Russian
officers I have ever met. Though unable to go out,
he made my stay thoroughly enjoyable ; and knowing
well my writings on Bokhara, he was able to confirm
or correct what had been written.

Since my previous visit the Emir Muzaffar-ed-din
had died, and had been succeeded by h-is fourth son,
Seid Abdul Ahad, of whom it was pleasant to hear that
he had introduced certain reforms and improvements,
as, for instance, that on coming to the throne he had
proclaimed throughout the country liberty to slaves.

Nominally, the slave markets of Bokhara, under
compulsion from the Russians, had long been closed ;
and when I was at Charjui in 1882 I did not suspect
the trade to be going on, but that Persian girls were
brought by the Turkomans and sold there I learned
after my return to England from Colonel Stewart,
who had left Eastern Persia only a few weeks pre-
viously, and I thereupon, with his consent, published
his statement by way of confirmation of M. Stremou-
khoff's letters to the St Petersburg Gazette stating that
the odious trade was not completely stamped out in
Bokhara.

It was a wise and humane policy, therefore, of the
Russians to " advise " (which meant to command) the
young Emir not merely to prohibit the trade, but to
set at liberty those already bound, and to send special
orders to the frontier towns that if any slaves were
imported there they should be immediately set at
liberty.

Thus, whatever may be said in disfavour of Russia's
annexations, it should not be forgotten that she has by
this last measure completed the extirpation of slavery
from the shores of the Caspian to China.

52 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

The new Emir was said to have made other attempts
to improve public morality. Mr Curzon, who accom-
panied a party of tourists to Bokhara at the time of
the opening of the railway, writing afterwards of the
Emir's court, says: " Bate has ', or dancing boys, are
among the inseparable accessories of the palace, and
represent a Bokharan taste as effeminate as it is
depraved." *

But Colonel Tcharykoff informed me, in answer to
my question on the subject, that the new Emir, instead
of providing boys with their tambourine music for the
public entertainment of guests as did his father, had
forbidden batchas, and ordered them to enlist in the
army, though it might be that they were in some cases
tolerated in private. f

On my second evening at the Amu-daria, Colonel
Tcharykoff gave a dinner, and invited me to meet the
officers of the garrison, and Captain Loewenhagen,
the commander of the steamer Czar, then in course of
construction on the river, and also an English engineer
named Boots.

Next morning I went by invitation of Captain
Loewenhagen to see the Czar, then lying below the
bridge alongside of the barge or lighter she was in-
tended to tow, after which Colonel Tcharykoff kindly
arranged that I should drive to the town of Charjui,
and pay a complimentary call on the native Bek or
Governor.

* Russia in Central Asia, p. 200.

t Something similar may be said with regard to prostitution in
Bokhara, for, whatever may be done secretly, the Muhammadan law
regarding its prohibition remains in force ; and a case having at the
time of my visit recently come to light of two parents selling their
daughter for an immoral purpose, the father's throat was cut, and
the mother shot, which in Bokhara is a common method of capital
punishment for offences of this class.

54 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

I was well pleased thus to revisit a place that had
interested me exceedingly, six years before, as a frontier
outpost, whence one looked into the desert towards
Merv, and longed to go but dared not, there being then
no security for a foreigner's life.

Outside the citadel, instead of inside, as one would
expect, is arranged under a shed a very small park of
antiquated artillery, which the Charjui natives, I sup-
pose, used to fancy brought them abreast of the times.
So ignorant were they on my former visit, that on my
thinking to surprise the young Bek by describing our
hundred-ton guns and their enormous projectiles, he
replied, " Yes, ours are like them too."

This young Bek was a younger brother of the
present Emir. At my reception in 1882 he had got
himself up in a dandy turban and gorgeous robes, but
he lost his post at his fathers death, and his successor
had now been summoned to court to take the place of
the Kush-beggi's son, whom I had seen when calling
on his father, and whom I had mentally dubbed the
greatest nincompoop in the kingdom. But this was
by no means the estimate put upon him in Bokhara,
for the new Emir had taken him to his cabinet as
Divan-beggi, or Minister of Finance. Colonel Tchary-
koff also spoke well of him, saying that he had been a
favourite with the people.

No small indignation, therefore, had been recently
aroused when, the Divan-beggi serving a warrant for
the sale of the goods of a man who had embezzled
money, the culprit shot the Divan-beggi with two
bullets, who after lingering 20 hours died, but not
before he had expressed a wish that his murderer
might not be put to death.

But the Emir condemned the culprit, and handed

FROM MERV TO THE OXUS. 55

him over to the dead mans relatives to do with him
what they liked. This was, first, to break his bones ;
next, to drag him through the donkey market (some
said at the tail of an ass) ; thirdly, to behead him ;
and lastly, to cast his body outside the city to the
dogs.

On my present visit to Charjui I was received in the
usual reception room by the acting Bek and his staff,
robed in their gaily coloured khalats and white turbans,
-and, after speaking of my former visit, and partaking
of light refreshment and sweetmeats, I returned
towards the outer gateway between lines of soldiers
and a native band.

Being anxious to revisit the prison, and remember-
ing that it was under a chamber at the gate of the
citadel, I stopped opposite the entrance and asked to
be allowed to go in. My gaining admission six years
previously was a great triumph, because at Bokhara
they had done their best to keep me from seeing their
prisons, and I then discovered at Charjui not only a
near approach to the " Black Hole of Calcutta,'* but
men wearing iron collars, through the ends of which
was passed a chain to secure them all together, as well
as a long beam, wherein the prisoners' feet were made
fast, placed across the centre of the chamber.

This beam I could not help thinking was anciently
an ordinary piece of furniture in prisons, similar
perhaps to that in which the Philippian jailer thrust
the feet of Paul and Silas (Acts xvi. 24), and I was
anxious on the present occasion to take a photograph
of it.

But the hot and fusty chamber, without windows or
ventilation, and measuring only six paces by four, was
too dark and the space too contracted to allow of

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

operating satisfactorily ; so, putting a bold face on the
matter, I asked that the prisoners might be brought
out into the yard, and the beam too, which was accord-
ingly done, for the police-master looked afraid to
refuse. Then I sent to the bazaar for refreshments,

CEMETERY, AND MODE OF EXECUTION IN BOKHARA AND KHIVA.

which the prisoners partook of before they were posed
and photographed, much to their astonishment, but on
terms they evidently approved.

In addition to the chamber already described, I
found, on this visit, another on the opposite side of
the citadel gateway, circular in form and measuring

FROM MERV TO THE OX US.

four paces across. In the former place were four
prisoners chained by the neck together ; in the latter
were eight, one of whom had been confined for a year,
others for a longer period, together with a boy of
13, whose tale was a pitiful one.

It appeared that his father had struck him, and after-
wards the son, finding his parent asleep, retaliated by
dealing him a blow which proved fatal. The young
parricide had already been in confinement for nearly a

OPENING OF THE BRIDGE ACROSS THE OXUS AT CHARJUI.

year, but I could not make out what they intended to
do with him.

On passing the gallows they told me that, previous
to the advent of the Russians, they used to hang from
five to six hundred Turkomans a year, but that this
state of things had now passed away.*

* Among sundry photographs kindly given me by Colonel Tchary-
koff is one of the gallows at Khiva, not as when I was there, in front of
the Khan's palace, but in a cemetery, with a felon supposed to be

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Before leaving the Amu-daria railway station, or
depot, as they called it, I attempted a photograph of
the curious vehicle in which we were to go forward
to Bokhara. We had come by payment as far as the
line was available to the public, and the ceremony of
opening the bridge had taken place only a few weeks
previously, but the rails were placed and trucks were
running for another 80 miles.

C J BRIDGE OVER THE OXUS, 46,230 FEET,

Accordingly, Prince Khilkoff assigned me, free of
charge, a wooden hut or maisonette, with slanting roof,
built on a wheeled platform, and introduced, if I mis-
take not, by himself, from his experience in railway

suspended. His foot, however, is suspiciously near a mud wall, on
which it looks as if the man might be posing for the photographer; but
whether it be so or not, the picture illustrates the primitive character
of the Turkistan gallows, consisting simply of two posts and a cross
beam.

FROM MERV TO THE OXUS.

making in America. It consisted of two chambers
about 10 feet long by 9 wide. In each room was a
bedstead, a table, and two candlesticks. The walls
were lined with striped cotton, the windows and door-
ways were curtained, and there was a lavatory inter-
vening, so that all that was needed was the Russian
samovar and a lunch-basket to enable one to travel
as many miles as one pleased.

THE LONGEST IN THE WORLD.

It was in this fashion we crossed the Oxus, whose
bed is here more than two miles wide, with many
sandbanks/- and occasionally islands pastured by cattle ;
whilst so changeable was the course of the current
that a place measuring 20 feet deep at the time of the
erection of the bridge, and chosen as the spot for
steamers to pass, had now silted up to a depth of two
feet only.

60 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

The bridge is, I suppose, the longest in the world —
so long that, when standing at one end, the other is
not visible, especially on such a day as we crossed,
with sand in the air blown by a strong east wind, and
when the train — going very slowly, it is true — took
26 minutes to go the entire length of the rail-
ings. The bridge is constructed lightly of wood, and
is not intended to be other than temporary. Tubs
of water with pails attached, in case of fire, are placed
upon it at intervals, and on the bridge itself occurs the
one thousandth verst post from the Caspian.

Immediately east of the river we passed over culti-
vated land and through trees to Farab, our first
stopping-place, where there was a garden laid out, but
no station built ; and this was the usual condition of
things till we reached the stopping-place for Bokhara,
where, after a heavy rainfall at night, I made my first
acquaintance with Central Asian mud, into which,
from its slippery character, I fell.

An enterprising Armenian, or Jew, if I remember
rightly, had built at the station a small inn ; and here
I was called upon by the station-master, Colonel
Popoff, and the local engineer, Ivanoffsky, who had
heard about me from General Annenkoff, and
suggested that I should sleep the remaining hours of
the night, and in the morning they would see me
started for the town.

CHAPTER V.

BOKHARA.

Drive to the town, 61. — Fellow-guests and repeated experiences;
Madame Kleram's hospitality, 62. — Russian ladies in Bokhara, 63. —
Espionage and suspicion of natives ; Visit to bazaar and Kalan
Mosque ; Photography allowed but suspected, 64. — House of the
Ishan and maniacs, 65. — Picture-taking under difficulties ; Visit to
Jewish synagogue, 67. — Morning prayers and circumcision, 68. —
Jewish oppression in Bokhara, 69. — Visit to city prison, 70. —
Lepers' quarter, J2. — Audience with the Emir, 73. — " A bargain's
a bargain " ; Political influence of Russian Residency, yy, — Rides
about the town, 78.

WHEN the carriage arrived for the nine miles'
drive between the station and the town of
Bokhara, I recognised it as the calfohe in which, six
years previously, I was drawn by two artillery horses
from Kitab to Karshi. I recognised, too, one of the
postillions, but not the line of country through which
we now drove, on a beautiful spring morning. It
presented a very different aspect from the parched
appearance of the Khanate as I had last seen it
in autumn.

On arriving before the grim and sombre-looking
walls and towers of Bokhara, we were taken to what
was formerly the harem or women's apartments of the
house assigned me in 1882, which the Emir had now
lent for the Russian Residency, pending the building

62 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

of a suitable dwelling for the Political Agent near the
railway station.

The rooms I occupied before, in the principal court,
were now inhabited by Colonel Tcharykoff, and in the
same court were the treasury, guarded by Cossacks,
and the apartments of M. Basil Oskapovitch Klemm,
Secretary-dragoman to the Political Agency at Bo-
khara, and his family, with whom were staying Madame
Klemms mother and sister, Madame Olga and Mdlle
Aphekhtine, on a visit from Moscow.

There was also lodging on the premises a Russified
native officer and interpreter named Mirbadaleff, whose
brother I met at Petro- Alexandra vsk. To complete
the list of visitors must be added a Spanish gentleman
and his wife, of whom mention had been made by the
Governor at Baku as coming after me, who passed
under the name of Juan de Chelva, from Valencia,
but who were said to be none other than the brother
of Don Carlos of Spain, and his wife, the Duchess of
Montpensier.

An American fellow-traveller once, inviting me to
come and stay at his house, added, " We will take
you in, you know, boots and all"; and in this fashion,
on my first visit to the Khanate, from the moment of
crossing the frontier, I was regarded as the Emirs
guest, and supplied with lodging, servants, food, and
raiment, and all that was necessary for myself and
attendants.

Something of the same sort was observed on this
second visit, though I could not at first make out
whether I was a guest of the Emir or of the Russian
Residency. The lunch brought daily to my room
was of native preparation, but in the evening Madame
Klemm entertained us at dinner ; and, considering

BOKHARA. 63

the difficulty of getting variety of food for European
palates, and serving it in anything like Western
fashion, in the midst of a city where foreigners were
so few, it was not an undeserved compliment the
duchess paid one evening to our hostess in observing,
" Comment on mange bien, Madame, chez vous / "

This paucity of Europeans in the town contributed
largely towards making prisoners of the ladies of the
Residency, for at first their appearance in the bazaar,
unveiled, drew together a crowd to admire or to stare,
as the case might be, and this was intensified when
Mdlle Aphekhtine appeared on horseback with a lady's
saddle.

Accustomed, like all Muhammadans, to degrade
their wives into drudges or toys, it seemed to the
natives a bold thing for women thus to appear in
public ; and that these sentiments were not those of
the vulgar only, came out on the day of the opening
railway fetey when the Residency was decked out
with flags and carpets, and the nobles of Bokhara
were invited to dine with Russian officers and their
wives, perceiving which, one of the Bokhariots, high
in dignity, remarked that he thought the Russian
ladies were not kept sufficiently in subjection!

On the birth of Madame Klemm's first baby there
was much rejoicing and passing of compliments and
presents, and the young boy was forthwith dubbed
a " bek " in honour of having been born in " Bokhara
the Noble "; but I could not gather that, even with
the best of Russian desires to that end, there could
be maintained anything like family intercourse or
intimacy between Muscovite and Bokhariot ladies,
so great was the ignorance of the latter, and so little
did they understand each other s customs ; added to

64 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

which the natives were intensely suspicious that be-
neath every proffered kindness there lay concealed
a snare.

To me these indications of suspicion were not new,
for so rampant were they at the time of my previous
visit, that our deeds and words, and taking of notes
especially, were reported to the Emir — an undoubted
fact, because some of my retainers one day heard
two of the spies reading over what they intended
to report. On this second visit I was less tightly
in their grasp, but I recognised one of our old spies
among three native officials who remained on the
premises nominally, and to a considerable extent
really, to look after the Emirs guests, but also, of
course, to espy.

On the day after our arrival the Kush-beggi, or
Prime Minister, sent a Karaul-beggi to show me the
bazaar, where things were going on as of old. From
the bazaar the Karaul-beggi took me to the Kalan
Minaret, said to have been built by the Arabs in
the ninth century, and to tire Great Mosque adjoin-
ing, out of which I had formerly been hurried in fear
lest I should be set upon as an unbeliever, whereas
now I was allowed to examine everything at leisure,
and even to photograph the Mihrab, or sanctuary
towards which Muhammadans pray, and the Sakka-
khana, or place for drinking water.

Had I brought a camera six years before, its use
would undoubtedly have been forbidden, but now they
had seen some of the Russians practising their " black
art." This had to some extent softened prejudice, so
that when in the mosque one of the natives was about
to object, the Karaul-beggi overruled that I should be
allowed to proceed. On another day, however, one

BOKHARA. 65

old simpleton, and a great obstructionist on my first
visit, after seeing me take a photograph of a tomb in
the cemetery, thought the proceeding so mysterious
and uncanny that he declared next day it had caused
him a sleepless night !

I photographed this place of sepulture because the
cemeteries of Bokhara and Khiva give the best illustra-
tion that I have seen how those possessed of devils
(which in Bokhara would mean the insane) had their
dwellings in the tombs.* These tombs are built of
clay, the ends presenting the form of a triangle with
the sides bent out. Beneath this the corpse is laid,
often on the surface of the ground, divested of all
clothing, except a turban, and the tomb plastered up.
In course of time, however, the heat of summer causes
the clay to crack, and, the ends having fallen, disclose
the dry bones and skull within. Thus is formed a
place wherein friendless maniacs, turned loose to
provide for themselves (as I heard they sometimes
were in Bokhara), might easily take refuge.

I had heard on my previous visit of the barbarous
manner in which the insane were kept and treated,
being beaten whilst prayers were read over them from
the Koran, and then picketed, like horses, to posts in
the yard of a mullah called the Ishan, but I did not then
succeed in witnessing it. This house of the Ishan,
therefore, was one of the places I asked now to be
taken to see.

It was an ordinary native dwelling, presided over by
a sort of mullah-doctor, who was treating his insane
patients as Si possessed of the devil," an$ was dealing
largely in charms for all comers, consisting of extracts
from the Koran, placed in receptacles to be worn on

* Matthew viii. 28.
VOL. I. 5

66 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

the afflicted part of the body. He sat in his room
near a window, and outside was a little crowd of
ignorant women, many of them said to be childless,
who had come to consult this man in their troubles
and pay for his nostrums.

This was sad enough, but the sight of the maniacs
was pitiable ; the case of one man especially, Akhmet
Kul, from Karshi, who had been there six months,
and, although chained by the ankles, kept violently
jumping and dancing about. Unlike some of the
others, when I gave him money or sweets he threw
them into the air, and appeared decidedly combative.
Near him, chained to the wall, was a youth who had
been there ten days only.

" What is the matter with him ? " I asked.

" Oh !" said they, " he has a devil." Whereupon I
took from his legs the chains, which they allowed me
to purchase.

Passing through a doorway, I found myself in a
stable in which was a donkey, and, seemingly as little
cared for, two maniacs, one of whom was jumping
and crying, the place looking indescribably miserable,
and filthily dirty. Sitting outside in the sun, but
chained, was an Afghan, and another man of unknown
nationality who was evidently vain of his appearance,
for, before a small looking-glass, he was continually
combing his long and plentiful hair and beard. There
were others on a loft who had been there three months,
but some only 15 days, and in all cases their stay was
intended to be temporary.

Of course I wanted to photograph this sad and
strange, but instructive scene, for it connected itself in
my mind with further characteristics of those we read
of as possessed with devils. I accordingly began to

BOKHARA. 67

put up my apparatus, the Ishan not expressing any
objection.

Some of his subordinates, however, did not like it,
but being too timid to stop me, and thinking perhaps
to escape responsibility themselves, let loose the
Karshi maniac, who came dancing before the camera,
crying out, as interpreted to me, uWe don't want to
be photographed ! we don't want to be photographed!"
Upon this I desisted, and, by permission, returned a
few days afterwards to accomplish my purpose.

On this second occasion there were ten patients,
and Akhmet Kul, a man of middle age who told me
he was three years old, made no objection to having
his portrait taken, showing the charm he wore on his
shoulder, which seemed to be the only thing they were
applying for his recovery. Whether he had been
beaten I have no record ; some were so treated, and
some, they said, beat themselves.

I paid a third visit to the Ishan's house on my last
Sunday in Bokhara, thinking to give the poor creatures
a dinner of pilau, which being announced to the old
obstructionist, he said, rightly or wrongly, the needed
quantity of pilau could not be had in the bazaar at so
short a notice. {i Very well," I said, ''then we will
give them bread and sweets, as before," which accord-
ingly was done, much to the satisfaction of the patients ;
and the Ishan gave me, I suppose as a compliment,
one of his charms or slips of writing.*

On our third day in Bokhara, accompanied by one
of the Emirs officials, I revisited the Jews' synagogue,

* The text, kindly translated for me by Sir Henry Rawlinson, reads,
"In the name of God, the Most Merciful, the Great and True," after
which it appears to continue, " A charm by the truth of the Gospel of
Jesus, and what God made to descend upon Jesus. Mary was daughter,' '
etc., the remainder being illegible.

68 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

anxious to thoroughly overhaul a number of manu-
scripts and disused rolls of the Law which, six years
before, were stowed away in dust and disorder in a
loft. But the spirit of church restoration had been
abroad — the loft was removed, and the old rolls were
now arranged in order in niches in the walls and in
cupboards.

On asking for the most ancient, a Torah, or copy of
the Pentateuch, was shown, said to have been given by
Abdurrahman Kalan, the Israelite patron or founder
of the synagogue, four or five hundred years ago.
Just before my previous visit a woman in Bokhara had
parted with a manuscript I was shown at Moscow on
its way to London, and which, when sold to the British
Museum, turned out to be of importance both for
textual criticism and for illustration of the art of Jewish
illumination — to be pronounced, in fact, the most
richly illuminated Hebrew manuscript of the Old
Testament extant.

On applying a few tests on this second visit, as to
the form of certain letters, I could not make out that
this oldest copy in the synagogue would be regarded
by an expert as very ancient, or perhaps remarkable,
though the writing was larger than usual, and carefully
penned.

On the next morning at sunrise I was taken again
to the synagogue to witness a circumcision. Many
men were assembled wearing phylacteries and prayer
shawls or scarves, called locally sisid, but in Hebrew
talithy some of which were ornamented with strips of
silver and gold. The congregation sat on the ground,
but sprang to their feet at the repetition of the Kodeslh
or " Holy, Holy, Holy! " and from time to time they
turned towards Jerusalem.

BOKHARA. 69

After the usual daily morning prayers, which last for
about three-quarters of an hour, two chairs were brought
into the midst of the congregation near a stone lectern,
said to be 400 years old, and covered with cloths of
silk. The officiating rabbi or priest then took in his
hand a silver rod, called the rod of Elijah, and the
child was brought in by the father amid shouting and
recitation of prayers by the congregation. A prayer
was said by the rabbi, after which the infant, held by
two aged men, was circumcised according to the law.

The usual offering given to the priest on such
occasions is from four to ten shillings, or more per
haps from the rich. To what extent, and in what
numbers, their rich men exist is not easy to tell at
a glance, since many years of oppression and extortion
have made them careful to hide their wealth.

In Bokhara the Jews still labour under many re-
strictions. They may not wear a garment of silk, for
instance, with a belt and a turban, but are compelled
to wear a cotton khalat and black calico cap, and to be
girded only with a piece of string. Again, they may
not ride a horse in the city, and in the fields are made
to dismount from an ass before a mounted Muham-
madan, who, if he choose, may smite a Jew, but the
Jew must not retaliate.

The boys, many of whom, like their mothers, were
extremely good-looking, at first were terrified at me
if only I patted them on the head. Meanwhile they
showed themselves well disposed towards me, some
of them remembering my former visit, especially one
boy to whom I had given a Hebrew New Testament.
Moreover, true to their character, the Jews were not
above turning a penny where possible. The rabbi
sold me a small manuscript roll of the Book of Esther ;

or the

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

and coins and precious stones were brought for my
selection, as also old embroidery. Some of the last
I purchased, and now value highly.

JEWS OF BOKHARA.

I expressed a strong desire to see also the Zindan
or city prison of Bokhara, which they asked me not to
photograph. It was a wretched place, of which they
might well be ashamed, consisting of two rooms, not too

BOKHARA. 7i

large for four persons, but into which they had crammed
47. The first room was ten paces long, the ceiling
almost within reach, and contained 25 prisoners, one
poor fellow crying because sick, and apparently broken-
hearted. The second chamber was six paces square,
without boards or ceiling, the domed roof opening to
the sky, and containing 22 prisoners, of whom six were
Persians.

There was no furniture in the rooms, except a piece
or two of matting on the bare earth, a water vessel,
and the most wretched sanitary arrangements. They
said the man longest there had been imprisoned
1 8 months ; and it is proper to remember that im-
prisonment as such, for a term of years, for instance,
is not a recognised form of Bokhara punishment, but
men are put in prison until their cases can be dealt
with and disposed of in a summary fashion, which
may be anything between a thrashing and being put
to death.

Joseph, my servant, had brought an armful of bread,
which I would not entrust to the keepers, but dis-
tributed myself; and on going again on a subsequent
day for a similar purpose I perceived, in the centre of
the chamber, open to the sky, a hole covered over with
earth and sticks, which I learned was the entrance to
the bottle-shaped dungeon, into which prisoners could
be lowered by cords.

Here it was, I make no doubt, that the English
Colonel Stoddart was at first placed by Nasr-ullah,
the present Emirs grandfather, and afterwards re-
moved to another prison within the palace, where he
and Captain Conolly were said to have been persecuted
by sheepticks.

However that may be, I had heard from Colonel

72 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Tcharykofif that, before he came to the Residency, it
was hinted to the new Emir that such abominations
could not be allowed in a city inhabited by a repre-
sentative of the Czar, in deference to which desire of
his friends the Russians the Emir had covered up the
underground dungeon, and released, or otherwise dis-
posed of, more than ioo prisoners confined therein
at the death of his father.

I brought away a souvenir of the Zindan in the
form of a hand-drum such as is used by the
master of a hawking party. There it was beaten
by the Zindan watchman walking round the walls
at night. It was given me by the jailer, into
whose apartments we went when looking at the
kitchen, near to which was the tomb of a mullah of
repute.

Another place I thought it might be a charity to
visit was the lepers' quarter, which before at Karshi
they refused to allow me to see, nor did I subsequently
get more than a passing glimpse of it, and that by
stealth, at Bokhara. I now said that I wished to give
a dinner to the lunatics, the prisoners, and the lepers ;
and we rode out to a village where were reported to
be 200 persons, or houses of the infected. They
were not congregated in any one building, so that
all we could do was to gather a few together, ask
for their head-man, and give him some money to
distribute.

I heard of no hospital of any kind in Bokhara,
though Dr Heyfelder, on the railway staff of General
Annenkofif, when resident in the city, had given the
natives much medical assistance, and made many
friends thereby. He told me, quite feelingly, that
the Divan-beggi, when shot, sent for his assist-

BOKHARA. 73

ance, but he was too far off to arrive in time to be
of use.#

It is not customary in Bokhara that visitors be
admitted to the presence of the Emir until they have
remained in the city a few days, at the least three it
was said on my former visit, and during that interval
they would not, at Shahr-i-Sabz, let me go off the
premises. On the present occasion the staying within
was not exacted, but on the fifth day after my arrival
my Spanish fellow-guest and I were to be presented to
the Emir, who was staying in his summer palace at
Shirbadan, a few miles out of the city.

His Highness sent repeated invitations to M.
Klemm, desiring that he also would come. Accord-
ingly, we drove in a caleche through the streets,
preceded by a cavalcade of numerous outriders and
servants, and after them, to do honour to the occasion,
the Minister of Finance, lately Bek of Charjui. Added
to this the people along the route were en fete,
keeping the Muhammadan New Year, the festivities
of which had been postponed on account of the Emir's
absence in March. As we approached Shirbadan the
crowds increased, for they were expecting to scramble
for presents, and, in addition, soldiers were drawn up
to salute.

The palace, with a fairly good entrance approached
by four steps from the court, and covered with an
awning supported by two slender wooden columns,
stands in a garden of a hundred acres, and the

* This was the more remarkable when a surgical operation might be
necessary, because it was said that the Bokhariots will not submit to
amputation, thinking that, unless whole at the time of death, they cannot
enter heaven. I heard too that the bodies of Persian subjects in Russia
are not subjected to post-mortem examination, in deference perhaps to
the same superstition.

74 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Reception Hall, with its pool of water in front, is
ornamented on the exterior with arabesque painting in
no way remarkable. It was otherwise with the ceiling
within, which had been painted only a year before, and
was, I think, the prettiest work of art we saw in
Bokhara. The room had glazed windows, testifying
to contact with Russia, as did also the three chairs
placed for the visitors and a fourth occupied by the
Emir ; but I remember no other furniture in the room,
which was richly carpeted.

I had been requested not to ask permission to take
his Highness's portrait, though I managed otherwise
to secure his photograph in full dress, wearing a richly
embroidered velvet khalat and trousers, with a sword
and a highly ornamented turban, and attended by one
of his ministers. On the present occasion he was less
gorgeously dressed, and displayed the insignia of four
or five Russian and Bokhariot orders.

It was pleasant for us that M. Klemm could speak
to the Emir direct in Persian, and thus kindly act as
interpreter. After sundry remarks of a formal cha-
racter, and passing of compliments, we attempted to
interest him with the recital of some of our travels.
But geography, if existent at all, occupies a poor place
in the Muhammadan curriculum, and it was some-
what difficult to find subjects for conversation of
mutual interest. I thought the present Emir, how-
ever, more intelligent than his father, and after a few
more speeches he invited us to walk in his flower
garden and take refreshment in an adjoining room.

This tea-room, as it was called, was said to be 50
years old. It was less brilliant than the one we left,
and here was spread for us the usual dostarkhan of
fruits and sweets and pilau, of which they pressed us

THE EMIR OF BOKHARA AND HIS TREASURER.

?6 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

much to eat abundantly. Then we adjourned to the
gardens, which were in no way beautiful to an English
eye.

After awhile we returned, and to our surprise found
awaiting us a number of presents that were quite
embarrassing. Mine consisted of a horse with tur-
quoise-mounted bridle, a silver- and spangle-em-
broidered saddle-cloth, and ten khalats or changes of
raiment. Two were of woollen stuff, one of them
real kashmir, which Paisley shawls are made to
imitate, and the other coarser ; a third was of gold
and satin damask ; a fourth of scarlet silk velvet ; a
fifth of striped satin ; and others of silk and cotton
native materials and mixtures. Besides these were
three khalats of inferior quality for my servant.

The presents given to my fellow-guest and to M.
Klemm resembled my own, and took me somewhat
aback ; for, remembering how kindly the late Emir
had entertained me, I had brought with me some few
presents I thought his son might appreciate. But M.
Klemm informed me they had altered the custom, so
that I expected not to receive since I was not allowed
to give, and afterwards I was further dissuaded on the
ground that presents were received by the Emir only
from the Russian Emperor, the Governor-General,
etc.

On our return to the Residency I was glad to keep
the robes of honour, but was not so clear what to do
with the horse, which, when the saddle-cloth was
taken off, proved a sorry steed, and to take it with me
was pronounced impossible. A dealer accordingly
was brought from the market who offered me 50^. as
its value, and I took the man at his price, thereby
giving rise on the morrow to a somewhat unusual

BOKHARA. 77

exhibition of commercial dealing, for the Emirs officer
at the Residency, hearing the price quoted, insisted
that the man should give more, and I was offered some
few roubles in addition.

I judged it right, however, not to be outdone, and
said, " No, a bargain's a bargain. Had the man come
saying that he found the price given too much, he
would not have had money returned, and I do
not think that now I ought to receive more." This
remark they approved, and were content to abide by ;
but the incident reminded me how, continually, in the
bazaar and elsewhere, the Emirs men had asked the
price I gave for my purchases, which they do in
the case of strangers, it was said, in order to prevent
their being cheated.

All at the Residency were foreigners, but it was
interesting to see how important an influence they
wielded in the city, and how well the Resident and
his Secretary were suited to their posts. Colonel
Tcharykoff struck me as an able diplomatist, and
the Secretary as thoroughly industrious, and better
acquainted with Oriental languages than most Russians
I met.

Hence the people, whether Jews or natives, could
come with their grievances, which they frequently did,
hoping that the Russians would gain them redress.
Slaves sometimes came asking to be freed. Fathers
complained of the treatment of their daughters by the
Emir, and some of the discontented occasionally were
bold enough to ask that the Czar would take posses-
sion of the country.

It was not the policy of the Resident, however, to
interfere more than was necessary in the domestic
affairs of the Khanate, except when they related to

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Russian subjects ; and as for annexing the Khanate,
11 Why," as one asked of me, " should they do that ? "
To administer the country in Muscovite fashion would
cost a great deal more than the taxes would pay for,
and if the Russians want anything done, they have

COLLEGE OF DIVAN-BEGGI.

simply to nod to the Emir, and he does it. They
are much too wise, therefore, to annex Bokhara ; but
if need arises, it can, of course, be done at any
moment.

During our stay at Bokhara, I went sometimes for
a drive with M. Mirbadalefif, or for a ride with him

BOKHARA. 79

and Mdlle Aphekhtine, which gave opportunities for
seeing the town and noticing the curious customs in
its narrow, old-fashioned streets. I visited some of
the Medresses or Colleges, of which that of the Divan-
beggi, with its pool in front, and shaded by mulberry
trees a century old, is one of the best.

A smaller one called Chuchugoim, near the Resi-
dency, was inhabited by 13 students only. One had
been there three years, and intended to stay much
longer, but was so poor as to be thankful for alms,
which Joseph asked on his behalf, saying that the
scholar could not beg. I gave, therefore, like a good
Mussulman for the nonce, and in accordance with the
teaching of the Koran, which prescribes giving not
only " to him who asks," but u to him who is ashamed
to ask" — a very good maxim for countries where
primitive manners obtain, and begging has not become
a trade.

M. Klemm, arriving one evening, brought intelli-
gence that General Annenkoff wished to see me, and
would arrive in two or three days ; but as during that
time he did not come, I judged it better to go forwards
towards Samarkand, examining on my way the railway
operations at the head of the line.

CHAPTER VI.

SAMARKAND.

Departure from Bokhara, 80. — Arrival at head of the line ; Guest of
General Annenkoff, 81. — M. Rubenstein and Dr Heyfelder, 84. —
Drive to Katte Kurgan ; Custom-house ; A banquet antici-
pated, 85. — Departure by post-horses, 86. — Farewell to General
Annenkoff; Bridges prepared for railway, 87. — Approach to
Samarkand ; Guest with M. Tolpygo ; Dinner at Government
House, 88. — Condition of former acquaintances ; Sights revisited ;
Tamerlane's Mausoleum, 89. — Synagogue, and visits from Jews ;
Farewell to M. Tolpygo and Samarkand, 91.

WE left Bokhara a little before midnight on
April 22nd, after trying to sleep for an hour
or two at the station inn, this establishment being
impressed on my memory because it was the only
hotel to which the hospitality of the Russians allowed
me to go whilst passing through their territory east of
the Caspian.

We passed at Kuyuk Mazar, the first station, from
the cultivation of Bokhara to the uncultivated Steppe,
and early in the morning reached Malik, the next
station beyond being Kermine, the bekship of which
was usually held, as in the case of the present Emir,
by the heir-apparent to the Bokhara throne. Here
we caught our first glimpse of the Central Asian
mountains, and, after proceeding another 16 miles,
reached Zia-eddin or Ziat-din, one of the principal

SAMARKAND.

towns of the bekship. After this we arrived about
noon, at a distance of 91 miles from Bokhara and 828
from the Caspian, at an open place called Tugai Robat,
which was for the moment the end of the line.

I was glad of the opportunity of being the guest of

AT THE HEAD OF THE LINE.

the General, of whom one had heard so much, and of
seeing his famous train of two-storied railway waggons,
a veritable movable village of 1 ,500 persons. Calling
upon his Excellency in his own waggon, which he had
inhabited for about three years, it was found to consist
of office and bedroom, lavatory, etc., for himself and
vol. 1. 6

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA,

his immediate staff of officers, whilst in the upper story
was accommodation for servants.

This train was never allowed to be very far from
the head of the line, which meant, of course, that it
frequently moved, since, when the weather was good
and all went well, the rails were being laid at the rate
of four miles a day, the embankment being prepared
beforehand, and the metals brought alongside on a

A LOCOMOTIVE HABITATION FOR GENERAL ANNENKOFF, PART OF HIS STAFF, AND

SERVANTS.

narrow movable Decauville railway, as imported twice
a day on trains from the Caspian.

I stayed only a day at Tugai Robat, but had time to
see the principal features of the rolling community,
which necessitated, at its various stopping-places, the
erection of tents, the creation of a temporary " bazaar,"
and a brisk trade with the natives of the locality. In
the evening I dined with the General's staff, almost all
of whom were very young.

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Among the staff was M. Rubenstein, son of the
well-known musician of that name. The General bade
him help me forward on, the morrow. Another officer
on the staff was Dr Heyfelder, to whom my name
was known through my books. He had published an

MAKING A CUTTING— ASSES TAKING AWAY THE EARTH IN PANNIERS.

excellent little work, Transkaspien unci seine Eisenbahn.
He was on the staff of Skobeleff at the taking of Geok
Tepe, and, being of an inquiring turn of mind, had
studied the people and things about him, and knew
Turkmenia well, I thought myself fortunate when he

SAMARKAND. 85

proposed that on the morrow we should travel together
to Katte Kurgan.

M. Rubenstein arranged that one of the General's
carriages should be placed at our disposal, and in this,
with a troika of horses, we set out on what proved a
pretty and interesting, but extremely dirty, drive. As
we proceeded alongside the embankment we had oppor-
tunity of seeing a cutting here and there, in which the
labour of asses taking away the earth in panniers was a
feature not usual on English railways. For the most
part the ground to Katte Kurgan was level.

We passed the Custom-house on the frontier. M.
Klemm had kindly telegraphed on my account from
Bokhara that my baggage should not be stopped or
examined, and Dr Heyfelder now told the officials that
my servant was following in an arba, — all of which
seemed very simple ; but I subsequently learned that,
lacking these favours, the passing out of Bokhara
into Russian Turkistan might have given me some
little trouble and perhaps expense.

We finished our drive of 18 miles, and arrived early
in the afternoon at Katte Kurgan, where I was taken
to be the guest of Mr Engineer Yanushkovosky. Dr
Heyfelder introduced me also to some of the in-
habitants of this frontier Russian town, which just now
was all in a ferment, expecting within a day or two
the first appearance of the train, when the coming
of General Annenkofif was to be celebrated with a
banquet.

The General had kindly expressed a wish that I
should be present at the grandest/^ of all, to be held
on a day fixed in the near future at Samarkand ; but
of this I could hold out no hope, nor indeed could I
wait at Katte Kurgan for the minor festival. I called

86 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

on Colonel Voisekovitch, the chief of the district, to
whom I presented M. Klemm s card, and asked for a
padarojna, or ticket to travel by post-horses to the
frontier near Kuldja.

I was too old a traveller by Russian post not to
know how many conveniences would be given or
denied me, according to whether I received an ordinary
traveller s ticket, or a crown padarojna such as is
usually reserved for officials, since the latter gives the
first claim to post-horses and sundry other advantages.

Remembering, therefore, the value of quoting a
good precedent, I produced an old crown padarojna
showing how I had been indulged on my former visit,
and was not a little pleased when the Colonel informed
me I should be so indulged again, and that I could
have my horses early on the morrow.

On driving next morning out of Katte Kurgan, we
left the tourist world behind, with its comfortable
carriages and cushions, for the sterner mode of pro-
gression in Russia implied by the word pericladnoi,
or rough springless post-cart supplied to travellers
who have no tarantass or carriage of their own.
Arrangements had been made for me to have a taran-
tass farther on ; but as Samarkand was only 43 miles
distant, a large post-cart, good of its kind, was supplied,
into which my baggage was packed, myself seated
thereon, and Joseph with the driver perched on the
box.

We had not gone very far when we met General
Annenkofif, who had been obliged to leave Tugai Robat
on the day of my arrival, and was now returning.
Seeing my rough vehicle, he asked, half apologetically,
if I was comfortable, and on being answered in the
affirmative, he gave me his card to M. Tolpygo, another

SAMARKAND.

of his engineer officers at Samarkand, with whom
I might lodge.

Having thus multiplied his kindnesses in favour of
a passing traveller, we parted — he to return for a
few weeks longer to his little carriage-home, and I

CONSTRUCTION OF A BRIDGE NEAR SAMARKAND.

to continue my journey eastwards, gratified at having
met a man whose name will not soon be forgotten in
the history of railroad making.

We did not see much of the preparations for the
railway beyond Katte Kurgan, but were given to
understand that the last bridge was finished, the

88 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

embankment made, and all in readiness for the sleepers
and rails. The number of small bridges required near
Samarkand was enormously increased, in passing over
cultivated land, by reason of the irrigation canals,
whereby the water is led from the Zarafshan.

We approached Samarkand by a road I remembered
well, with the military cantonment lying off to the
right, and shaded by numerous trees, such as the
Russians have planted by thousands both within and
without the capital. These excited the admiration of
Joseph not a little ; for though he knew Western Asia,
including Persia and Afghanistan, he had never seen
a town with streets so full of poplars, sometimes three
and four deep, growing beside watercourses, and
suggesting the delights of a Muhammadan paradise.
On reaching the house of Mr Engineer Tolpygo, it
was found to be a large building of one story, em-
bowered in tall trees, and having a covered portico or
platform admirably adapted for the outdoor meals that
the Russian loves, and in a hot place like Samarkand
in summer, exceedingly agreeable. Here a welcome
was accorded me, and a room placed at my disposal,
whilst my host, living en gar$ont entertained me at
meals with soriie of his fellow-engineers.

I proceeded, within a few hours of my arrival in
Samarkand, to call on the Governor, General Yaphi-
movitch. I remembered well the approach to the
Government House, for it was there I stayed on my
previous visit, though not with its present occupant.
I soon found that I was no stranger, and dining there
the same evening, I met Colonel Poukalofif, who in
1882 had been chief of the town of Tashkend, and
reminded me of my inquiries and of the remarks then
made as to the possibility of crossing into Chinese

SAMARKAND. 89

Turkistan, a feat that neither he nor I then thought it
likely I should ever accomplish.

The Colonel was now promoted to be Vice-Governor
of Samarkand, and I had heard of other acquaintances
who, in six years, had climbed the ladder a few steps
higher ; but things were not all on the bright side.

On calling next morning on the chief of the district,
George Arendarenko, I learned that Yakoob, who
accompanied me as interpreter to Khiva, was dead.
Also a gentleman who had shown me great attention
and kindness in one of the towns of Turkistan, had
got his official accounts wrong, and been under judg-
ment ; whilst another case more painful still was that
of a highly intellectual young fellow, with whom I had
stayed, and who struck me as extremely well educated
and gentlemanly, but who had succumbed to the
fascination of the card-table and wine-cup, and become
a moral and social wreck.

As for the two djiguitts who accompanied me from
Samarkand to the Oxus, one of them, Kolutch, was
gone for the moment to Kerki, whilst Fazul was now
told off to accompany me about the town.

I have described elsewhere a former stay in Samar-
kand, but there were certain places that one could not
do otherwise than re-visit, notably the Mausoleum of
Tamerlane. The building is too far gone for restora-
tion to anything like its original beauty, nor will its
present condition stand comparison with the antique
monuments of India and the care bestowed on them
by the Indian Government ; but on entering the tomb
of Tamerlane I found it swept and garnished, its
marbles polished, and the whole kept in a better con-
dition than in 1882 ; whilst by contrast with the dis-
graceful manner in which the natives had allowed this

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

venerable pile of their ancestors to fall into neglect and
ruin, the Russians have expended an amount of care
upon it that is fairly puzzling to the Muhammadans.

THE GUR-EMIR, OR MAUSOLEUM OF TAMERLANE AT SAMARKAND.

On emerging from the Gur-Emir we passed up the
splendid avenue leading to the Rhigistan, an im-
provement, needless to say, of the Russians.

SAMARKAND.. 91

I visited again the synagogue of the Jews, and
found that they had a new one in course of building,
thereby showing the greater liberty they enjoy under
Russian rule than their brethren at Bokhara under the
Emir, who, like his father before him, has persistently
refused to allow them to build a new synagogue.

I told the Jews of Samarkand that at the close
of my journey in Bokhara in 1882, when writing to
thank the Emir for his kindness, I had asked him
to mitigate the oppressed condition of his Jewish
subjects, which they heard with satisfaction, and the
Rabbi invited me to his house for further conversation.

Later, on a Sunday morning, two Jews called on
me, showing a portrait of myself as clean and fresh
almost as when received from me six years before.
One of them had been reading the New Testament,
and the copy I had given to the other had been
handed down to his son. Thinking to apply a money
test to his sincerity, I offered a further copy of the
Hebrew New Testament for 20 kopecks, which he
immediately gave, and both seemed interested to see
me again.

On the Saturday after my arrival, M. Tolpygo
had to leave me for Katte Kurgan, of which I took
advantage to send by him a letter of thanks to
General Annenkoff for all his attention.

M. Tolpygo also laid me under other obligations
by his additions to my collection of photographs.
Further, the Governor volunteered to lend me a
tarantass wherein to travel to Tashkend ; so that, after
spending a good part of Palm Sunday with the Vice-
Governor, who took me after dinner to the Ivanoff
Park, we left Samarkand on Monday morning.

CHAPTER VII.

TASHKEND.

Crossing the Zarafshan to the bridge of Shadman-Malik ; Route
to Jizak, 92. — Across the " Hungry " Steppe to Chinaz, 93. —
Tashkend, 94. — Dinner with Governor-General Rosenbach ; Help
from Captain Blinoff, 95. — Easter services, and subsequent recep-
tion at Government House ; Lutherans' request for a service
and Easter communion ; Withdrawal of money from bank, 96. —
Arrangements for communication with Kashgar, 97. — Improve-
ments in Tashkend and purchases, 99. — Russian lady nurses, 101. —
An open-air bazaar ; Further visits to Government House, and
parting amenities, 102.

ALTHOUGH it was now the last day of April,
by which date in Turkistan the warm weather
has usually set in, we found it chilly at half-past six
in the morning when driving out of Samarkand. The
water of the Zarafshan was sufficiently low to allow
of its being forded, without having our baggage and
selves transferred into a tall arba, as had been the
case when I crossed before. Having gained the
northern bank, we turned aside to look -for a few
minutes at the two arches of the ruined bridge of
Shadman-Malik.

We had before us a journey of 190 miles to
Tashkend, and it had been arranged that I should
sleep the first night at Jizak. My host was Colonel
Alexander Mikhailovitch Sunargulofif, a native who

TASHKEND.

did not speak French, in consequence of which
Captain Goujouss came to the rescue as interpreter.
On this my first day's travel for the season in a
tarantass proper, I had been incautious enough to
lay by my side a bag containing an india-rubber
washing basin, and Galton's Art of Travel. These
in the course of the journey had jolted out of the
vehicle, and inquiries were set on foot by my host

WELLS IN THE "HUNGRY STEPPE.

for their recovery, but in vain. Happily it was my
only loss of the kind whilst posting, and, by the
kindness of friends, I was able^afterwards to replace
both the missing articles.

Next morning, early, we started to cross the
"Hungry" Steppe, passing in the course of the day,
and changing horses at, four stations, of which the
most remarkable was Murza- Rabat. Here stands an
old ruin of a caravanserai supposed to date from

94 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

the sixteenth century. It is built of large square
bricks, and consists of a central chamber covered by
a dome, as are several smaller chambers adjoining.*

Towards evening we finished our 80 miles of
Steppe, and approached the Syr-daria river, crossed
by a large rude ferry-boat, and soon after dark
reached Chinaz. It would have been easy to post
the remaining 40 miles during the night, but I pre-
ferred to rest at the post-house. Next morning we
passed the station of Old Tashkend, drove along the
valley of the Chirchik, with snow mountains in front
of us, and soon after midday arrived at Tashkend.

In Tashkend there was obligingly placed at my dis-
posal a furnished house in Romanoff Street, wherein
are usually lodged embassies from Bokhara. This
was far more comfortable than what I remembered
of the local hotels, my small meals being provided
by the caretaker, his wife, and my servant, whilst
Prince Cantakouzine introduced me at the military
club, where I could lunch and dine, and meet officers
who were ready in various ways to advise and assist
in my projected expedition.

Calling the day of my arrival on General Rosenbach,

the Governor-General, in his modest and unpretending

palace, where so little state was kept up that the front

entrance was not used except on special occasions, I

found my coming expected and my name known,

thanks partly to Miss Hay, an English lady living

in the family, who had translated to them some of

my writings.

* It has no doubt afforded a place of refuge to many a caravan in
days when an escort was necessary in crossing the dreary waste. The
road is now perfectly safe from robbers, as are all the post-roads of
Russian Turkistan, thereby presenting a striking contrast to those I
subsequently travelled on in Asiatic Turkey.

TASHKEND. 95

The General invited me to dinner the same evening,
and at once expressed his willingness to help me in
everything I asked, not excepting even my return,
if necessary, over the Terek Pass into Ferghana. In
fact, his Excellency seemed in no way inclined to
follow an exclusive policy in keeping Englishmen and
other foreigners out of Turkistan.

" Why should we ? " said Madame, as we discussed
the subject at table. "We have nothing to hide or
be ashamed of foreigners seeing here, but rather some-
thing to be proud of!" whereupon I put in a good
word for Mr St George Littledale, who I knew was
just about to ask permission to pass through Turkistan
to the Russian Pamirs for a season s shooting of wild
sheep, and on whose behalf I had written to M.
Vlangali. Subsequently the Generals sincerity was
proven, as I judged on receipt of a telegram from
Mr Littledale in one word, which the telegraph clerk
in Kuldja spelt " Komming."

I perceived much appreciation by the Governor-
General of English people and things, and it was
amusing on a subsequent visit to discover that his
sister was known to me by reputation, and had been
living within a mile or two of my home at Blackheath.

On the day after our arrival an officer named Blinoff
called, whose duty it seemed to be to look after the
material comforts of guests, which he did thoroughly,
and sent to me a M. Feodoroff, who took me to see
M. Klemm's tarantass, wherein I was to go forward
to Kuldja, the vehicle being first put in thorough
repair.

I had arrived, however, in Passion Week, and the
near approach of festivities did not promise well for
my getting away quickly, though, on the other hand,

96 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA. '

I was glad to have reached the capital, wherein to
witness for the first time a Russian Easter.

On Good Friday evening I attended, in the cathedral,
the Vuinos, or ceremony of the entombment, and was
present also at a gorgeous spectacle in the same
building on Easter Eve.

I had been specially invited to go from the church
to the Government House, where was held a select
official reception, and where I met again Colonel
Tcharykoff, from Bokhara, in court costume, with
many others, who, after conversation and walking
about for an hour, sat down to an ample Easter
supper, and towards three in the morning made their
way home.

Meanwhile I had been asked by Colonel Lilienfeld
if I would not give the Lutherans a service, they
having no resident pastor, and several of them being
desirous to partake of an Easter communion. But
my German was weak, English was useless, and,
though able to speak, I had never attempted to
preach, in French. This last seemed, however, to
be the only way out of the difficulty, and as it came
before me in the way of a plain duty, I resolved
to try, and gave them both service and sermon in the
house of a M. Pfennig.

An important transaction, for me, in Tashkend
was the withdrawal from the State Bank of roubles
forwarded there, as the ultima thule in this direction
of the banking world. How to carry my money had
been a puzzle from the outset. For civilised regions
Messrs Brown, Shipley, & Co. supplied a single letter
of credit, by means of which I could draw upon their
correspondents any amount up to a certain sum
named ; and this was preferable to the usual way of

TASHKEND. 97

carrying a number of circular letters for ^10 each,
which, when numerous, became bulky.

As for the little-known regions whither I was
proceeding, I had gathered from Mr Carey's paper,
read not long before at the Royal Geographical
Society, that he exchanged rupee notes at a discount
in parts of the Tarim valley, and I accordingly
purchased as many of these as just then could be
found in London, but vainly inquired in the great
city for any one who could give me a letter of credit
for Chinese Turkistan ; and upon asking if the General
Post Office could inform or assist me, they replied
that the department possessed no information what-
ever as to the places I mentioned, since they were
quite beyond the recognised region of regular postal
communication. It seemed not unreasonable to hope
that some of the merchants in St Petersburg could
furnish a letter of credit upon Kashgar, but it was
not so.

At Junker's bank they advised taking to Turkistan
Russian gold coins. Perhaps they had some to sell,
for they quoted as a price nearly two roubles paper
for one of gold. Fortunately for me, I did not take
their advice. To have done so would have been a
blunder, and costly to boot. With the pride pardon-
able in an Englishman, I had thought that her
Majesty's countenance on a clean Jubilee sovereign
could not fail anywhere to command respect, and
I had taken 50 ; but that proved a delusion.

Another adviser in St Petersburg said that the
people of Chinese Turkistan were unaccustomed to
gold coins, and that lumps of brute silver were the
proper thing. This was true, but to have turned my
sterling into lump silver, even had it been possible

vol. 1. 7

98 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

at the Russian capital, would have added more than
three hundredweight to my baggage!

In doubt, therefore, I telegraphed to Kuldja whether
one should bring Russian gold, silver roubles, or paper
roubles, and was told the last. The condition of the
Russian money market was just then in my favour,
for there was a panic on their exchange, and, whilst
gold had advanced in price, and in quantities was not
even to be had, paper fell 2d. below what I had given
for the rouble in England, and enabled me to purchase
more, at about is. 8d. each.

Accordingly, with some thousands of these in my
pocket, my London letter, 50 sovereigns, some rupee
notes, and a London cheque, I determined to try again
in Moscow and Tiflis for the needed letter of credit
on Kashgar. But Moscow proved no better in this
respect than St Petersburg ; and at Tiflis, where my
cheque was changed for more paper roubles, I found
the only way to avoid carrying the money about me
was to place it in the State Bank to be transferred to
Tashkend, payable at call.

This was a temporary lessening of responsibility,
which returned, however, on receiving my deposit in
notes of 100 roubles each, which a St Petersburg
adviser had specially urged should, according to
Chinese taste, be clean and new.

Among various persons upon whom I called in
Tashkend was M. Pomerantzofif, at the Observatory,
who showed me some of his instruments and gave me
local barometrical and thermometrical observations.
I saw, too, Brigadier-General Levashoff, who was
acquainted with the Kuldja district, and gave in-
formation respecting Sungaria.

He deemed that my route, as then projected from

TASHKEND. 99

Kuldja to Kashgar, might take four months and cost
^600 ; whilst another adviser, who had been a good
deal on the Chinese frontier, put the time at three
months and the cost at ^200, thus leaving an ample
margin between the two estimates for the teaching
of experience.

I called likewise on the Princess Vziemskiy to see
her sister, Miss Petrovsky, just finishing her education
at Tashkend, and about to leave for her fathers house
at Kashgar by way of Osh, in Ferghana. Up to this
point there was a regular postal service, letters for Kash-
gar being forwarded once a month by a djiguitt, who
made the journey in eight or ten days, except in April
and May, when the flooded rivers were impassable.

The Governor-General promised to write to Colonel
Deibner, in command at Osh, to forward my letters
and telegrams to Kashgar ; also to arrange that I
might from that place, and if needed, re-enter Russian
territory.

I have not thought it necessary to say much about
Tashkend itself, because it has been already treated
of in my Russian Central Asia. Speaking generally,
marks of improvement were visible in many quarters,
specially in the new bazaar, recently built.

I was able to procure therefrom some embroidery
worked by Central Asian women, and such as they
love to spread about the house when assembled for
drinking tea and smoking the chilim, or pipe. To see
such parties is not permitted, of course, to the English
visitor of the male sex, who has to be content in such
matters with what he can see of old women who go
about unveiled, or with such furtive glances at female
faces as may be gained among the lower classes, wash-
ing perchance at the side of a stream, or engaged in

IOO

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

household employment near their homes. I secured,
nevertheless, photographs of native women as they
appear in the street and in private.5*

When visiting the hospitals for natives on my first
journey to Turkistan, it was pointed out that the native

COSTUMES Or CENTRAL ASIAN WOMEN IN THE STREET.

* I heard from Miss Hay, who supplied me with a miniature suit of
female attire, that the younger women are very Jezebels in the use of
paint and powder, making their coloured eyebrows meet above the nose,
and plaiting the hair in numerous small braids. Over the head is worn
a white handkerchief, above it a black kokoshnik, or head-dress, and
over these, when out of doors, a thick black horsehair veil, which is the
only thing visible in the region of the face over the few inches left
uncovered by a large khalat, or mantle, enveloping all from the crown
of the head to the feet ; whilst beneath that garment are seen the boots,
frequently of scarlet, into the top of which are tucked wide drawers.

TASHKEND.

101

women were utterly averse to coming to the instructions ;
but this time I was glad to hear from the Governor-
General that he had enlisted the help of Russian lady
nurses, for which he was rather disposed to claim credit

A WOMAN OF CENTRAL ASIA AT HOME.

as of something new in the history of philanthropic or
missionary effort in Asia.

On being appealed to at the General's table as to
whether we had not the like in India, I was able to-
answer generally in the affirmative, but not so definitely,
I am ashamed to say, as I ought to have been able

ioa CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

to do, seeing I am a life-member of the Church of
England Zenana Missionary Society, which has more
than a hundred female missionaries in the field.

It was a step in the right direction, however, to find
Russian women beginning thus to take up what is so
essentially woman's work amongst her native fellow-
subjects in Central Asia, and one hopes for greater
things hereafter.

Madame Rosenbach presided at an open-air y^te or
bazaar held during our stay in Tashkend, on behalf of
some charitable object, and on the following day, with
the General, showed me their garden, in the cultivation
of which they took much pleasure, having introduced
with success English strawberries.

This gave opportunity, as on other occasions, for
further conversation with the Governor-General, in
the course of which I mentioned to him what I had
seen of the horrors of the Bokhariot prisons, and
ventured to express the hope, as I had done to
Colonel Tcharykofif, that if they saw their way they
would do something when opportunity offered to
ameliorate the prisoners' condition.

Thus a fortnight slipped by before all was in order
for our travelling forward. My newly-mended tarantass
was then packed, the Governor-General kindly tele-
graphed my coming to the chief of the district at
Chimkend, and on Thursday, May 17th, M. Bartsch,
the agent of the Bible Society, came in the early
morning to see me start. Madame Rosenbach also,
mindful of my weakness for fruit, sent down as a
parting present a dish of delicious strawberries sur-
rounded with roses — a real treat.

Thus ended my halt in Tashkend, the longest I had
yet made since leaving London.

CHAPTER VIII.

FROM TASHKEND TO ISSIK-KUL.

Departure from Tashkend ; Arrival at Chimkend, 103. — Passing through
Aulie-Ata ; Previous visit remembered at stations beyond, 104. —
Region of 4I Ming-bulak " ; Out of General Government of Turkistan
into that of the "Steppe"; Telegrams to and from General
Kolpakovsky ; Arrival at Pishpek, 105. — Should I visit Issik-
Kul ? 106. — Start with a Colonel ; Arrival at Tokmak, and excur-
sion to the Burana Tower, 107. — Recent discovery of Nestorian
cemeteries, 109. — Two graves opened, no. — Traces of surround-
ing habitations ; Tokmak cemetery ; Inscriptions and decipher-
ment, 112. — Departure from Tokmak; The Buam defile; Crossing
the Chu to Kok-Mainak, 1 14. — Northern chain of the Tian Shan ;
The Ala-Tau and Alexander ranges; Basin of Issik-Kul, 115. —
Description of the lake ; Road along its northern shore ; A narrow
escape; Arrival at Kara-Kol, 116.

ON setting out from Tashkend for a posting journey-
eastward, the weather was now perfection, not
too hot, and without dust, whilst the road was suffi-
ciently hilly to give variety of pleasing landscape. I
noticed this especially in the extensive view from
Bekler-Bek, where we crossed the watershed between
the valleys of the Keles and the Aris, and where I
remembered well the old medresse, now turned into a
Russian post-house.

Two stations beyond was Chimkend, which we
reached after 14 hours of travel, and where Colonel

104 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Blagovidoff, the Uyezdi-nachalnik, or chief of the
district, had kindly prepared a bed for me ; but I pre-
ferred after supper at his house to push forward,
posting, as the local manner is, through the night. In
so doing we passed out of the basin of the Syr-daria
system into that of the Chu and minor streams which
run down from the Alexander Mountains into the sandy
desert west of Lake Balkash.

We had a lovely view of the mountains all the next
day. The range was still snow-capped, presenting a
very different appearance from what it did in the autumn
of 1882 ; whilst the abundance of water fructified the
steppe with the poppy and other flowers, and brought
forth pasture for vast herds of cattle not yet driven to
the mountains by the heat of summer. Thus by posting
all day we accomplished about 120 miles in 24 hours,
and drove at night into Aulie-Ata, with nothing worse
than breaking the hood of the tarantass against the
gatepost of the station yard.

Aulie-Ata might be called the capital of the Kirghese,
since they form so large a proportion of its inhabitants.
The place had increased considerably since my previous
visit, and now was all ablaze with illuminations during
the Muhammadan fast of Ramazan. I did not stay,
however, hoping that I might reach Pishpek on Satur-
day evening and rest there on Sunday.

The fourth station beyond Aulie-Ata was Malda-
baevskaia, where, on my previous visit, a horse kicked
a poor yemstchiky or postillion, and broke his leg,
whereupon my interpreter, like a good Samaritan, set
the bone, and we left the man with some pence in
charge of the postmaster to be taken care of. The
present whereabouts of the patient I could not learn,
but at another station, Akir-Tiube, the incident seemed

FROM TASHKEND 70 ISSIK-KUL. 105

to be remembered by one of the men, who added that
the yemstchik had since died.

We were now passing through the historical region
of Ming-bulak, or the land of a " thousand springs"
mentioned by mediaeval travellers in Central Asia,
where the season was not so advanced as we had found
it at Tashkend. The nights were rather cold, and
though we had entered the second half of May, I was
not too warm sleeping in my fur-lined ulster. Besides
this, it did not improve matters that I had to get out
of the tarantass at several stations to pay the fare,
Joseph's Russian being almost nil, and his Uzbeg not
always understood by the postmaster.

At Merke, 104 miles from Aulie-Ata, we had passed
out of the General Government of Turkistan into that
of the Steppe, over which rules General Kolpakovsky.
Remembering the kind reception this gentleman had
previously given me, and with a lively hope of favours
to come, I telegraphed from Tashkend to his Excel-
lency, giving the date when I expected to leave, and
intimating that I might like to make a cUtour to Issik-
Kul ; and in that case asking his assistance at Pishpek,
where the road turns off to the mountains.

On the next day came a telegram from the General,
according me a welcome to Central Asia, and saying
that he had asked the Governor of Semirechia to help
me towards Issik-Kul, Kuldja, and Kashgar. In
accordance with this I telegraphed on Saturday after-
noon from Merke to Colonel Pushchin, the chief of
the district at Pishpek, to say that I was coming, and
then set out once more to post all night.

Arrived at Pishpek early next morning, we were
speedily inquired for by Colonel Pushchin, upon whom,
after a few hours' sleep and breakfast, I called, and

106 CHINESE CENTRAL AST A.

was introduced to his mother, who spoke German,
and to a brother-officer, Gedyuonoff, who talked
French.

The Colonel said he had sent a messenger to Kara-
Kol, the seat of administration, 250 miles distant, at
the extreme east of Lake Issik-Kul, to make special
arrangements whereby I should pass from thence to
Vierny, and he was now ready to change my padarojna
accordingly, and to accompany me for a few days'
journey. This was all very kind, but was a little more
than I had asked, since I had not finally decided to go
thus far out of my way.

Before leaving England I had asked for hints and
suggestions from that prince of Central Asian geo-
graphers, the late Colonel Sir Henry Yule, whom I
was privileged to number among my literary friends,
and who looked over for me some of the proof-sheets
of my Russian Central Asia. He replied that he had
not many things to advise, but suggested my seeing
as much as possible of the Tian Shan Mountains and
Lake Issik-Kul.

In St Petersburg they told me there are but few
specimens of fish or fauna from this region in the
museums of Europe, and they spoke of the desirability
of my getting more; added to which, M. Oshanin had
told me that he had once proceeded from Pishpek to
Kara-Kol by post, and thence, by hire of private horses,
to Zaitefska, and so forward by zemstvo or municipal
post to Vierny, for which last stage, however, it was
necessary to have an okriti list, or official permit.

It was, therefore, on the possibility of my wishing
to make this novel dttour that I had telegraphed to
General Kolpakovsky that I might like to go to Issik-
Kul. What, then, was now to be done ?

FROM TASHKEND TO ISSIK-KUL. 107

From information gathered on the way, it had been
ascertained that my baggage could not reach Vierny
for several days, and that it was undesirable for us to
arrive there much beforehand, because Vierny had not
yet recovered from the effects of an earthquake which
had*turned the people out of their houses into tents,
and destroyed the hotel.

Also the Colonel mentioned amongst the interesting
points of the proposed journey that I might photograph
an ancient tower near Tokmak ; and when to these
considerations it was added that all the necessary pre-
parations had been made, it seemed to me that I could
not do better than take advantage of time and oppor-
tunity to proceed by this longer and more difficult,
though, as I hoped, more interesting and profitable,
route to Vierny.

After continuous travel of three days and nights it
would have been pleasant to rest ; but the Colonel's
business required haste, and after entertaining me at
dinner, he suggested that we should start the same
evening, and sleep 40 miles distant, at Tokmak.

We set out accordingly in our two vehicles at dusk,
all going well until, about midnight, my Jehu drove
into a ditch, where we stuck so fast that neither
coaxing nor whip would get us out. We had therefore
to wait until the Colonel sped forward to the station
and sent back help, after which we reached the Russian
village of Tokmak, and slept in a semi-official rest-
house.

Early next morning we started for an excursion of
eight miles southwards, over a plain, to the Burana, a
small stream running from the mountains into the Chu.
Near to this was the Burana Tower, of burnt bricks,
nonagonal at the base, but circular above, with six

108 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

ornamental bands of bricks laid in arabesques, though
not coloured or in the form of letters.

The tower had no chamber within. I stepped round
the base in 44 paces ; but a peasant among the com-
pany, who professed to have measured it, said the
tower was 84 feet round and 210 feet high, though I
should think the latter an exaggeration. Some 1 5 or
20 feet above the ground was a doorway, with a lintel
of rotten wood, leading by a staircase to the top, up to
which eminence, when I was about to take a photo-
graph of the tower, one of the natives climbed, to be
immortalised, as the Colonel told him, in a never-dying
picture.

No one on the spot could give information as to the
origin of the structure. Some attributed it, like other
great and unknown things in Turkistan, to Tamerlane,
and said that the Kirghese had found here gold coins
which had been sent to the Archaeological Commission
at St Petersburg. For my own part, it reminded me
of very similar towers I had seen, without gallery, finish,
or finial at the summit, among the ruins of Old Khiva,
as well as a later attempt to build one of like character
at Modern Khiva.*

At the time of my visit a discovery had recently

* For illustrations of these minarets, see Russian Central Asia,
vol. ii., pp. 291, 306, 343, and vol. i.,p. 586. There is no lack of slender
minarets in Central Asia, as in Samarkand, to say nothing of the one
already alluded to at Bokhara ; but all of these are, if I mistake not,
smaller in girth than those of the two Khivas and this one at Tokmak.
Is it that the larger ones are more ancient, and the slender forms, with
projecting gallery at the top, a supposed later improvement ? Those
at Ancient Khiva are not probably less than seven centuries old, since
it was in 1220 Kunia Urgenj was destroyed by the sons of Jinghiz Khan,
and, so far as one can judge by the present state of the brickwork, I
venture to think this tower at Tokmak quite as old, if not older ; and we
know there was a city in this locality at least 500 years earlier.

In the seventh century the Chinese traveller Hiuen Tsiang passed

FROM TASHKEND TO ISSIK-KUL. 109

been made of Christian cemeteries near Tokmak and
Pishpek, which give us dates and suggest the former
populousness of these localities. A pamphlet entitled
Christian Monuments in Semirechia was given me by
Mr Nicholson when passing through St Petersburg.
This pamphlet Lieutenant Cromie has helped me by
translating, whence it appears that the description
therein of the cemetery near Pishpek is written by
M. Pantusoff (upon whom I called in Vierny, and who
supplied me with rubbings of some of the tombstones).
Professor D. A. Chvolson, a well-known Russian
scholar, has supplemented the description by remarks
on the inscriptions discovered, as well as by a short
account of Nestorian Christianity in Central Asia.
This will no doubt interest antiquarian readers, as
well as throw a little light on the early spread of
Christianity in these parts.

The cemetery at Pishpek, extending over eight
acres, is situated about seven miles from the present
village, and two miles from the mountains, near the
road to the Solyan defile, on an eminence sloping to
the north-east. No remains have been found of an
inclosure or ditch, nor, with the exception of two clay
ruins, are there indications of a church or belfry. The

through Tokmak, which seems to have continued a place of importance,
since, later on, it gave its name to the Khanate of Kipchak ; and both
Schuyler and Howorth regard the Sultans of Tokmak, of the fourteenth
and fifteenth centuries, as synonymous with the Shahs of Kharezm —
that is, Khiva (see Schuyler's Turkistan, vol. ii., p. 126, and Howorth's
Mongols, vol. ii., p. 287). If, then, in the thirteenth century, Old Khiva,
having such public erections, was in any way subordinate or inferior to
Tokmak, one might naturally expect to find in the leading city of the
Khanate such a minaret as this, erected probably by the Muhammadans
for worship. A similar tower is mentioned by the Chinese traveller
Tch'ang Te in 1259, in the city T'a-la-sze, or Talas (Schuyler, vol. i.,
p. 399), which Bretschneider, after Schuyler, seems disposed to place on
the river of that name somewhere about Aulie-Ata.

no CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

greater portion of the cemetery has now been ploughed
up, and the part remaining, which consists of small
mounds, probably family graves, would most likely
have shared the same fate had it not been difficult of
access.

Lying about on the surface, but in some cases now
buried, are numerous oblong stones (with inscriptions),
usually portable and weighing less than 40 lbs. — uncut
cobblestones of hard rock, evidently waterworn. A
few have been artificially polished previous to their
being engraved. Most are of grey granite, but a few
of grey sandstone, and two of breccia, these last being
the only large stones discovered in the cemetery, and
measuring about a yard long and three-quarters of a
yard in width and thickness.

On the elevations not yet ploughed the graves are
in straight rows, with long mounds, and excavation
shows that all the graves were so placed on the level
ground. The grave-stones are laid flat in a westerly
direction with the inscribed side upwards, whereas on
the higher ground they now lie in heaps, slightly
embedded in the earth. The number of grave-stones
found is 611, but many more are buried.*

* With a view to further examination, a grave was opened under one
of the largest stones, seemingly in its original position, and sunk into
the earth fully two-thirds of its own thickness. In an easterly direction
from this stone, immediately under the turf, lay flat two rows of square
burnt bricks, each measuring 150 square inches ; and, about three feet
lower, under the friable earth with which the cavity had been filled, was
a gable roof over a steened vault of sun-dried, straw- made bricks, the
roof meeting in the centre at an angle of 450. This roof was constructed
over the lower half only of the vault, whilst over the head was a mill-
stone, or slab, laid flat, and supported on thick pieces of juniper, now
rotten.

The grave was 6 feet deep, 3 feet wide at the top, and 21 inches at
the bottom. The corpse lay with feet towards the east, and the face
towards the north. The bones of the right hand lay on the pelvis ; the

FROM TASHKEND 20 ISSIK-KUL. in

Between 30 and 40 miles distant from this Pishpek
cemetery, and a mile from the tower on the Burana,
another Christian cemetery has been discovered, from
which I was shown two of the grave-stones. They
resembled those sent by M. Pantusoff to the Imperial
Archaeological Commission. He gives the measure-
ment of one as 13 inches long by 11 inches wide, and
weighing 33 lbs.

Those I saw had each only one Maltese cross in-
cised thereon, without anchor, ornament, or smaller
crosses ; but in other cases is frequently written an
inscription in Syriac characters, which it puzzled
M. Pantusoff to find any one in Semirechia to read.

Professor Chvolson, however, has come to the
rescue, and the following are specimens of the trans-
lations he has made, not, however, without difficulty,

left hand was raised to the head with its bones under the skull. Pieces
apparently of fir planks were found in the grave, not seemingly the
remains of a coffin, but fragments placed for some purpose above,
below, and around the corpse.

In order to secure a better specimen of a skull, a second grave was
opened, 14 feet south from the first. As before, the outline of the grave
was well marked by burnt bricks under the turf, the cavity was filled
with friable earth, and over the head of the vault were found three
stones. A steened vault of sun-dried bricks with bones was found at
the same depth as before ; but the receptacle for the corpse was con-
structed differently.

Thus the grave, 6 feet 6 inches long, was dug out to a width of 3 feet,
and, at the depth of 5 feet, was narrowed on either side by projections,
below which, in the centre, was formed a receptacle so narrow that the
corpse would seem to have been forced into it, whilst on each side, cut
out of the stiff clay, was a ledge or shelf containing the remains of a
body. The skeleton in the centre, with hands at the sides and face
towards the north, measured 5 feet 6 inches, and the two others 5 feet
each in length, these last having the hands apparently over the pelvis
and the faces upwards. In one of the side sections of this family grave
were two carnelian "false pearls," but no sign of wood, dress, or
other ornaments. Nothing has been discovered near the cemetery
save square burnt bricks, but near the site where the stones were found
are traces of a small artificial cairn.

ii2 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

owing to the impurity of the Syriac affected by Turki

words : —

No. i. In the year 1169 (858 of the Nestorian era).
This is the tomb of Menchitenesh, a be-
liever.*

2. In the year 1222. TheboyTekin. (Tekin

is a Turkish name.)

3. (At Tokmak.) 1578 (the year of the Hare,

4th year of the Turkish twelve-summer
cycle). This is the tomb of Shahmalik
Perio-deuta, the son of George Almuts.

4. In 1600 (the year of the Bull). George,

the priest-superior of the church.

7. 1 61 8. This is the grave of Julia, a graceful

girl, betrothed to John, leader of the choir.

8. 1627 (the year of the Eclipse or Dragon).

This is the tomb of Shelikha, the re-
nowned interpreter of Scripture and
Preacher, who filled all the monasteries
with light, the son of Peter the expounder.
He was celebrated for wisdom, and his
voice was sonorous as a trumpet. May
our Lord unite his enlightened spirit to
those of just men and the fathers. May
every lustre be his portion!

11. 1638. This is the tomb of John A . . . . ki
Akpasha, son of Tsaliva, archpriest of the
church.

19. (At Tokmak.) The house of rest of Keritlug
George.

* Chvolson observes that Menchitenesh is a Turkish name, which
seems to show that at this date some of the Turks had become Chris-
tians. The date is doubtless counted from the era of the Seleucidae,
311 B.C., as was usual with the Nestorians.

FROM TASHKEND TO ISSIK-KUL. 113

The discovery of these epitaphs in regions where
most English people have little idea that Christianity
ever penetrated, will interest not a few, if only by way
of showing the similarity of human nature and Chris-
tian epitaphs all the world over ; for how much does
the last epitaph, for instance, remind one of that of
Dean Alford at Canterbury, Deversorium viatoris
Hierosolymam proficiscentis — "The way-side resting-
place of one travelling to Jerusalem " ! *

But I must hasten forward from the Burana Tower,
whence this archaeological excursus began. Having
returned to the village and obtained post-horses, we
drove along the valley lowlands, having the Chu on
our right, and on either hand in the distance mountain
ranges still sprinkled with snow — the Ala-Tau to the
left, and the Alexander range to the right. We met
on the road, in carts, several Dungans, from the Hi
valley, and after driving 18 miles reached Staro- (or
Old) Tokmak.

Then crossing the Little Kebin river, near the
entrance to the Kastek Pass, we drove south-east to
the Chu, which we crossed by a bridge not far from its
confluence with the Great Kebin, the banks of both
rivers here being rocky and precipitous. Beyond this
point the road became hilly, and it looked ominous of
hard travel ahead, when at the next station, Djil-Aryk,
they gave five horses, though paying for three.

* These epitaphs have a farther interest to the linguist and palaeo-
grapher in showing the old forms of Syriac employed in Central Asia by
the Nestorians, who gave an alphabet and instruction, be it remem-
bered, to the Uigurs, or inhabitants of Chinese Turkistan, of whom we
shall have to speak hereafter. These discoveries, moreover, may
perhaps help us better to fix the sites of some of the ancient cities
mentioned by mediaeval travellers in Asia, for the identification of
which such men as the late Sir Henry Yule, Dr Bretschneider, and Sir
Henry Howorth have done so much.

VOL. I. 8

ii4 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA

We now entered the celebrated Buam defile, nearly
50 miles long, the name of which, according to some,
is derived from a Mongol word bomo, signifying " a
rift," or, as some prefer, " a pathway over precipitous
crags bordering a river." Both are true as regards
the facts, and we soon found ourselves toiling up an
ascent that needed all the strength of our five horses,
and then descending with locked wheels a narrow
road, and that sometimes of bare rock over a cornice
without rails or safeguards, overhanging one precipice
after another, at the foot of which roared the Chu.

Late in the afternoon we approached a fine bridge
thrown across this river, where repairs were being
superintended by Mr Engineer Kapustin, who was
camping close by, and who gave us some tea. Shoot-
ing seemed to be his principal pastime, and in his
lonely condition it was not unnatural that he should
desire us to stay, which the Colonel did, whilst I
pressed forward on a fairly level road on the east bank
of the Chu, through magnificent scenery, varied by a
few trees,, such as the wild pistachio, growing amidst
what seemed to me a new flora of lilies and irises, to
Kok-Mainak, where it was arranged we should stay.

We were now in the very heart of the Buam defile,
which bisects the most northerly chain of the huge
mass of Central Asian mountains called the Tian
Shan. Towards the east stretches the Trans-Ilian
Ala-Tau, consisting of two long and lofty parallel
chains, known as the northern and southern. The
northern ridge presents an uninterrupted mountain
chain, rising in its central portion to the limits of
perpetual snow, with an average height of 8,600 feet,
but its highest peak, Tal-Cheku, attains an elevation
°f !5»353 feet- The southern range, called Kungei

FROM TASHKEND TO ISSIK-KUL. 115

Ala-Tau, has a mean elevation of 8,825 feet. Towards
the west from the Buam defile stretches the Alexander
range, at the foot of which we had travelled all along
from Aulie-Ata.

The post-station at Kok-Mainak stood quite alone,
and on rising next morning and taking a turn outside,
the silent solitude was oppressive. The postmaster,
too, unless I am mistaken, was living alone as a
bachelor, though his guest-room was singularly neat
and comfortable, made ready perhaps for the reception
of his district chief and the English traveller.

Colonel Pushchin did not accompany me farther,
but after early breakfast sped me forward 1 6 miles to
the southern end of the Pass, where was, or ought
to have been, the station Kutemaldy ; but the earth-
quake of the previous year had shaken down the
post-house, and a tent only was pitched for the
accommodation of travellers. We were now fairly
out of the Pass into the basin of Lake Issik-Kul,
along whose entire northern side for 115 miles we
were to have the happiness of driving — a gratification
that has fallen to the lot of very few English travellers.

Our road to the next station lay about a mile from
the water, which in some places is as much as eight
miles from the mountains, and we passed over some-
times meadow-land, sometimes sedge, but rarely
through forest growth of any kind. Bushes appeared
only at the mouths of mountain torrents, and then
consisted for the most part of oblipikh covered with
narrow silver-coloured leaves, and dwarf trees of haw-
thorn, barberry, and various kinds of water-willow.
We passed a picket of Cossacks, changed horses at
Tura-Aigir, and towards evening arrived at Choktal,
where the good-natured postmaster gave us a roasted

n6 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

wild duck, and whence we determined to post on
through the night.

The shores at first continued flat, or sloped gently
towards the water, but in the small hours of the morning
I perceived that we had come to a stupendous hill,
which caused the horses to jib, nearly backing the
tarantass over a break-neck declivity.

This caused me, contrary to my custom, to get out
and walk, whereupon the animals again becoming
unmanageable, they or the driver turned their heads,
and, greatly to our alarm, rushed down from nearly
the top of the hill, I following and shouting that the
whole concern would be dashed to pieces. Much to
our surprise, however, the yemstchik, or driver, on
reaching the bottom, did not stop, but turned and
again charged the hill with perfect fury, my servant
Joseph and I following, until at last the animals halted,
and I drew breath to give thanks for what I regarded
as a merciful deliverance.

From Ui-Tal, a picket post-station, we had a pretty
drive, and in the afternoon arrived at our destination,
Kara-Kol, seven miles from the lake, and a distance of
251 miles from Pishpek.

CHAPTER IX.

FROM ISSIK-KUL TO VIERNY.

A previous traveller to Issik-Kul ; Scenery of Kara-Kol, 117. — Attentions
from Colonel Vaouline ; Arrangements of Chief of the District on
my behalf, 118. — Change of plans, 119. — The Kara- Kirghese ; their
districts, origin, and costume, 120. — How far Muhammadans ;
Missions among them of Russian Church, 121. — Kirghese modes
of treating disease; Fish, for specimens, 124. — Passing through
Pishpek, 125. — The Chu river and the Aral depression ; Our
wheel fallen to pieces, 126. — Arrival at Otar, and repair of
tarantass, 127. — Arrival at Uzun-Agatch, and escort to Vierny, 128.

ON driving into Kara-Kol we were to a certain
extent breaking new ground, since Mr Delmar
Morgan was the only English writer who had pushed
on to this out-of-the-way place, which may be compared
in winter to Siberia, and in summer to the Engadine.
From November to the close of February the little
town is visited by violent storms, and the snow lies
more than four feet deep. Spring brings abundant
rains and frequent fogs, whilst in summer, from May
to July, the heat goes up sometimes to 1220, notwith-
standing which the climate is healthy and agreeable.

Kara-Kol lies at an elevation of nearly 6,000 feet,
amid charming scenery, at the foot of a magnificent
mountain range called the Terskei Ala-Tau, which
extends all along the southern shore of Issik-Kul

u8 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

and continues eastward right up to Khan Tengri,
the monarch of the region, which may be seen from
Kara-Kol towering to a height of 24,000 feet — a virgin
peak, awaiting the attentions of some knight of the
Alpine Club.

Directly east of Kara-Kol is the Tasma range, over
which passes the postal pack-road to the Tekes valley.
At the time of our visit these mountains presented a
splendid panorama of snow-clad peaks ; but I did not
hear that mountain-climbing, pure and simple, was
much in fashion.

Calling on the Uyezdi-nachalnik, I found that he had
been kind enough to place a house at my disposal,
with a Cossack in attendance ; but finding the abode
rather out of the way, and foreseeing that my stay
would be short, I preferred to put up at the post-
house, where I could better get provisions, make
sundry repairs, and have my tarantass put in order.
Here Colonel Vaouline, whom I fortunately met in
the street, kindly came to my assistance, sent to me
the battalion smith, and helped in other ways.

In the evening I went to a little party gathered at
the house of the nachalnik, and met among the guests
Colonel Korolkoff, with whose brother, the Governor
of Ferghana, I had stayed in 1882 in Samarkand.

I found, moreover, that the nachalnik had arranged
for horses to take me forward, but learned to my dis-
appointment that my only way of proceeding thence
to my destination was by going over the Santash Pass
in the snow mountains (where there was no shelter
or even tent wherein to spend the night) to Jarkend,
and thence doubling back 200 miles to Vierny.

This was a great disappointment, first because I was
not equipped for camping out, and next, having been

FROM ISSIK-KUL TO VIERNY. 119

under the impression that I could get down to Vierny
by the road somewhat to the east of the lake, which
reaches the plains at Chilik in the Hi valley, the idea
of going so far out of the way as Jarkend was out
of the question. Had we been on horseback matters
would have been easier, since there are other bridle-
paths, but with a tarantass there was no alternative but
to return to Pishpek, which accordingly I determined
to do.

Less than 24 hours sufficed for a night's rest, and
to replenish our larder, thanks partly to the good
people at the post-house, who cooked for us three
chickens at the cost of a rouble ; whilst a good-natured
policeman, told off to guard me and mine, and who,
though excused from watching by night, made his
reappearance at sunrise, helped us in sundry minor
arrangements, so that before the sun was high we
were ready to start.

About ten miles from Kara-Kol we crossed the
Jyergalan river, which runs into Issik-Kul at Jergalan
Bay. Here may be seen encamped in summer the
Kara-Kol garrison, whilst scattered about are the tents
of the nomad Kara-Kirghese.

On my previous visit to Central Asia, a friend in
Vierny had been anxious that I should see something
of these nomads, but I then succeeded in visiting only
the Kirghese of the plains called Kazaks, about whom
I afterwards wrote three or four chapters in my Russian
Central Asia. On the present journey I saw only the
Kara-Kirghese, and upon them I have certain comple-
mentary observations to make, partly from what I
saw and partly on the authority of Dr Seeland, Chief
of the Army Medical Department, whom I met at
Vierny.

120 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

The Kara-Kirghese dwell northward, for the most
part in the mountainous districts of Issik-Kul and
Tokmak, but many are found also in the southern
portion of the Tian Shan on Chinese territory. They
spread eastward to the Muzart Pass ; westward, among
the mountains of Ferghana, to Samarkand ; and be-
sides those dwelling on the independent portions of
the Pamirs, I met on my way to India a few dwelling
as far south as the Kilian Pass.

When or whence the Kara-Kirghese settled in their
present homes is unknown. In certain places the
Kalmuks preceded them, but it is noteworthy that all
about the Issik-Kul valley have been found vestiges,
such as hatchets, lamps, spearheads, and sickles, point-
ing to an ancient people further advanced in civilisation
than either Kirghese or Kalmuk. Neither of these
works in copper or brass, and their agriculture is only
of yesterday, so that seemingly they had formerly no
need of the sickle, whilst the bricks and money dis-
covered all point to another stratum of society, an
Altaic origin being usually attributed to the Kirghese
because of their language.

I had several opportunities of observing their dress,
or, I might add, the want of it, for many were very
ragged, and the children ran about naked. Next the
skin is worn a long shirt of wool or cotton, and stock-
ings of felt ; then wide trousers of cotton or leather,
over which is put a long khalat, like a dressing-gown
with long sleeves. They have boots of leather, with
goloshes ; the shaven head is covered with a tibeteika,
or skull-cap, which in turn is covered with a fantas-
tically pointed hat of felt, or a busby of sheepskin.
When travelling in winter, the busby is replaced by
a malakhaiy or pointed hood lined with sheepskin and

FROM ISSIK-KUL TO VIERNY. 121

furnished with a flap or curtain covering the neck and
shoulders.

The costume of the women in many respects re-
sembles that of the men, with one marked difference,
however, of head-dress, which in the case of the
married woman is an enormous bonnet or series of
bandages of white cotton, covering everything — the
sides of the face, the neck, the shoulders, and even
part of the back. The women's hair is plaited into
small braids, from which dangle at the end coins
among the rich, but with the poor various metallic
ornaments, some of them being exceedingly grotesque,
as, for instance, odd keys and a broken brass tap,
which I saw suspended from the tresses of a fair one
at the western end of Issik-Kul.

The Russian Missionary Monastery at the eastern
end of the lake directed one's thoughts, of course, to
the religious condition of the Kara-Kirghese, amongst
whom it is placed. They call themselves Sunnite
Muhammadans, but in general are indifferent and
ignorant of doctrine. They pray according to Mus-
sulman fashion, and observe the fasts, but not too
exactly. Their mullahs are few and ignorant, knowing
only certain prayers learned by heart from the Koran,
and their mosques are fewer.

On the other hand, the Kirghese firmly believe in
an invisible world. To them the tops of the mountains
are peopled with spirits ; sickness is the work of the
devil, and the intervention of invisible beings in the
affairs of men is accepted, without question. With
a mixture of Pagan and Mussulman beliefs, they
venerate here and there objects of extraordinary cha-
racter. Thus, in the Issygaty defile, near Tokmak, is
an enormous stone of unknown origin with a human

122 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

figure rudely cut on one side ; whereon every Kirghese,
in passing, thinks it obligatory to place, as an offering,
a piece of tallow.

Their respect for cemeteries and tombs amounts
almost to a religion by itself. The corpse is usually
placed in the grave, sitting, with the face towards the
east ; but occasionally there is dug for it a secondary
chamber in one of the walls of the principal tomb ;
and over it is built sometimes a monument of clay or
stone. The Kirghese come frequently to say their
prayers at these cemeteries, which are well looked
after, though without appointed guardians.

On my first visit to Turkistan, Archbishop Alexander
at Vierny informed me they were about to begin a
mission of the Orthodox Church to the Kara-Kirghese
of Issik-Kul ; and after seeing the little monastery
there in 1888, I turned with interest to the report of
the Chief Procurator of the Holy Synod for 1887, to
read what had been done. All that could be gathered,
however, was that, in consequence of the recent earth-
quake at Vierny, building operations at the new Mission
Monastery had been suspended, and a determination
arrived at to rest content for the present with the
existing church, which sufficed for the small monastic
community.

From a report of the Altai and Kirghese Mission
in the eparchy or diocese of Tomsk for 1888, I learn
that the Bukonsk station among the neighbouring
Kirghese was then five years old, and that 23 in-
dividuals had been baptised during the year, including
a family of five persons, the good effects of which
had appeared in a diminution of drunkenness, though
names' days and marriage feasts still gave occasion
for excess.

FROM ISSIK-KUL TO VIERNY. 123

From this young mission had gone out a psalmist,
or precentor, Stephen Borisofif, to a small settlement
called Great Narim, on the head- waters of the Bukh-
tarma, in the district of Ust Kamenogorsk, where,
whilst acting as teacher at the Cossack School, he
also occupied himself as missionary to the surrounding
Kirghese. The Cossacks of the settlement are said
to be devout, and to have rejoiced greatly when, their
church being consecrated in 1888, there were baptised
on the same occasion six Kirghese. Since then, on
Sundays and Holy Days, the morning service and
afternoon devotional readings are said to have kept
the church full all day.

From a report of the Orthodox Missionary Society
for 1889, it appears that the Russian Church Mission
to the Kirghese in the Tomsk eparchy had a teaching
staff of two priests, a precentor, and an interpreter
under Bishop Macarius, living at Biisk.* The report
says also that translation into the Altai languages of
liturgies, etc., has been continued, but I find no special
reference to the Kirghese.

Some of the missionaries, it appears, practise medi-
cine a little, and even the precentors and teachers in
the catechists1 school have been taught to vaccinate;
whilst to the Deans house at Biisk is attached a
hospital with a feldscher%\ who goes when needed to

* The few particulars given of this Tomsk mission are so mixed up
with details of the 12 stations in the Altai Mission that it is not easy to
discriminate between the two, but one paragraph says that the members
of both missions, numbering 1 bishop, 13 priests, 3 deacons, 9 precen-
tors, 23 male and 4 female teachers, and 3 interpreters, travelled in the
course of the year 16,266 miles, and gained as converts 516 heathen
and 14 Muhammadans, the latter of which I suppose may be Kirghese.

t Literally a barber, or one who lets blood, but in practice a surgeon's
assistant who picks up a certain amount of rudimentary knowledge in
attending on a surgeon.

124 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

the mission settlements and accompanies the Super-
intendent on mission journeys.

After driving past the Issik-Kul Monastery, we
arrived at Preobajensk, where a man came out to
ask medical advice on behalf of his daughter, which
I was obliged to decline the honour of giving, though
perhaps I could have prescribed as well as some of
their Kirghese doctors, who are great believers in
"like cures like'' and the use of symbolical and
sympathetic measures.

Thus, for an obstinate attack of yellow jaundice,
they wear on the forehead a piece of gold, or, better,
cause the patient to look at it for a whole day, or
if a piece of gold be lacking, which is generally the
case, they substitute a brass basin.

A singular remedy is adopted against dyspnceay or
fainting, which they call " mountain sickness." This
they represent to themselves under the form of a
young lady, before whom they utter to the patient
the most obscene and disgusting expressions, thinking
thereby to shock the lady's modesty and drive her
away.*

At Preobajensk also, on the outward journey, a
number of Kirghese boys and men turned out in force
and waded into the stream to catch me specimens of
fish, which they brought with great glee to the tarantass.

* As illustrative of treatment by symbol, it may be mentioned that if
the malady reside in the lungs or liver, they give the patient the cor-
responding parts of an animal to eat, as, for instance, the roasted eyes
of an ox to cure ophthalmia ! Again, the treatment of intermittent fever
and difficult parturition by fright are still more remarkable.

In the latter case, if the child does not appear with becoming celerity,
the sage women press the mother, a strong man being occasionally
called in to help. Sometimes, however, they put the patient upon a
horse, which they cause to gallop about ; or, worse still, they resolve to
frighten out the devil (for of course the disorder can be due to no one

FROM ISS1K-KUL TO VIERNY. 125

And now at Ui-Tul, the neighbouring station, a number
of children, remembering my former inquiries for small
fish, and hoping no doubt for kopecks, brought me a
further collection, and, thus supplied, we posted on all
through the day and night, and at an early hour in the
morning reached Choktal.

From Choktal we posted to Tura-Aigir, and, towards
the western end of the lake, we turned aside from the
post-road to a few Kirghese dwellings on the shore.
Entering one of these tents, I found a number of
lambs and kids taken in for shelter, whilst without
were some of their skins stretched in the sun and
covered apparently with lime, the whole arrangement
indicating great poverty. They seemed to have no
objection to my photographic operations, which I
finished, and then, having taken a last look at the
beautiful lake, we drove to Kutemaldi, posted again
over two stages with five horses, and arrived at Pishpek
early on the following morning.

I should have greatly preferred to have gone from
Tokmak by the old mountain road over the Kastek
Pass, followed, I take it, by the travellers of the middle
ages ; but it was said to be all but unusable for a
tarantass, and with no postal accommodation, so that
the only alternative was to proceed by the longer road
made by the Russians in the plains.

Accordingly, after stopping a few hours at Pishpek,

else) and make him give up his prey. For this purpose the woman is
led in front of the tent, supported by the arms, and there suddenly
rushes out before her a troop of horsemen brandishing their nagaikas,
or whips, and uttering screams and noises diabolical.

These items of medical information are given on the authority of
Dr Seeland, after which his remarks are not surprising that such
remedies sometimes end in the death of both mother and child, though
he says the Kirghese women generally bear children with less difficulty
than Europeans.

126 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

and taking lunch with Colonel Pushchin, we started
for Vierny, and made our first halt at Constantinovsk,
where a Russian New Testament was shown to me by
the starosta, or keeper of the post-house, who seemed
to remember my coming six years before. At this
place, too, we crossed by a bridge for the last time the
Chu, one of the important rivers of Central Asia, and
frequently mentioned by early travellers.*

From Constantinovsk we continued over a spur of
the northern Ala-Tau range, which here, as it sinks
into the plain under the appellation of the Koi-Jarligan
Mountains, forms a water-parting between the Chu
and Hi valleys. We had reached a level road, when
soon after midnight our yemstchik uttered a cry, and
Joseph, on getting out of the tarantass, asked me to
do so too, whereupon I saw one of our hind wheels
not merely broken, but resolved into its component
parts. I suggested, therefore, that the driver should
endeavour to borrow a wheel from the station ahead.

* The Chu rises south-west of Issik-Kul, and flows within about three
miles of the western end of the lake, sending thither at times some of
its waters through a small stream, the Kutemaldi ; but Ashton Dilke,
and Schuyler after him, seem to think that at some period of the world's
history, when the level of Issik-Kul was higher, the lake overflowed
into the Chu, which continued its course through the steppe to the
Syr-daria, and so onwards to the Oxus, and finally into the Caspian.
Also both Schuyler and Kostenko speak of the Sea of Aral as having
once occupied a far greater area than at present.

I mention this last only to say that it is not confirmed by the recent
investigations of Mr Bateson, who in 1886 and 1887 journeyed among
the lakes of Western Central Asia for the purpose of making observa-
tions on their fauna, and who, in a paper read before the Royal Society,
says : " For these reasons it seems that, though the Aral Sea has
retired within recent times from such an area as would be covered by
it if its level were about 15 feet higher than it now is, yet it cannot be
shown that it has continuously receded from an area much larger than
this " (Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London,
vol. 180, pp. 297-330).

FROM ISSIK-KUL TO VIERNY.

127

It seemed wisest to take matters philosophically,
and to turn in and sleep, which I accordingly did. In
due time the yemstchik came, and by early morning
we arrived at Otar.

We had now on the south the Ala-Tau Mountains,
whilst northwards, stretching away for about ten miles

*-^r

djR

^^LJ

:Li

- ~<^n»

«H B

Ssl

^v!>^>;H

j*~A* • . '<■ ,■'. **.—*

^ST^te?*^

THE SOURCE OF THE KOPA.

east and west, was the Kopa valley, through which,
when there is water enough, runs the river of the same
name, having its head-streams in the Kuldja Bashi
Mountains, and flowing into the Kurtu river, and so
onwards to the Hi and into Lake Balkash.

There was no resident smith at Otar, but there was

128 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA,

a prison itape, where happened to be resting for the
day a batch of exiles on their way to Siberia. Amongst
them were two Orenburg Cossacks, who for a small
price were as well satisfied to mend our wheel as we
were thankful to be released from our difficulty.

I much enjoyed the rest by the way, and did not
start till evening, when, late in the night, there came
on such a storm of wind and dust, with a little rain,
that the station-master at Sam-Su almost implored me
not to go forward. We stayed accordingly for a few
hours, and early next morning arrived at Uzun-Agatch,
a village of 1 1 3 houses occupied by Russian emigrants.

The majority of the houses were of unburnt brick,
and had suffered badly from the recent earthquake at
Vierny, 35 miles off. At Uzun-Agatch is a stream,
flowing from the Ala-Tau range, whence I secured some
specimens of fish, usman, piscari, and marinka, and
then posted on to Kiskilensk, our last station for
changing horses.

At Kiskilensk the postmaster had received a letter
from the authorities about me, in deference to which
he mounted his horse and rode before us for 16 miles
into Vierny.

CHAPTER X.

VIERNY AFTER AN EARTHQUAKE.

Vierny pleasantly situated, 129. — Eye- witnesses' description of earth-
quake, 130. — Houses of burnt brick most damaged ; Destruction -
around town; Mud streams from the mountains, 131. — Losses of
life, 132. — Removal of inhabitants ; Author taken to Governor's
temporary abode ; Lodged in M. Gourdet's new house, 133. —
Money sent to Kashgar, 134. — Anniversary of earthquake, and
Memorial Chapel ; Seismic record of earthquake shocks, 135 . —
Baggage delayed; Remissness of Russian Society for Trans-
port, 137. — Douceur given and misappropriated, 138. — Arrival of
baggage ; Luggage forwarded to Jarkend, 139.

WHEN, in 1882, I descended from Western
Siberia, through the monotonous steppes of
Semipolatinsk, the praises of Vierny had been sung as
beautiful for situation and the joy of the land, and not
altogether undeservedly. As we drew near, the town
was seen lying about a dozen miles only from the foot
of the Trans-Ili Ala-Tau Mountains, which lift their
summits to the snow-line, whilst two peaks, Almaty
and Talgar, attain respectively to 14,000 and 15,000
feet.

Vierny was founded in 1854, by Cossacks, who built
their houses of wood, which, with a view to the pre-
servation of the forests, was subsequently forbidden.
The later erections were of brick, for the most part

vol. 1. 9

130 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

sun-dried, and the broad and straight streets, crossing
at right angles, were bordered with trees — willows,
poplars, elms, and Robinia pseudacacia — so that they
presently assumed the appearance of park-like avenues,
whilst the palaces of the Governor and Archbishop,
the Cathedral, the Governor's garden with its pavilion
and flowers, the public schools and government offices,
together with a population of 25,000 souls, combined
to render this capital the pride of Semirechia.

But on June 9th, scarcely a year before my second
visit, the city was visited by an earthquake, of which
the local effects remaining were only too visible on
every hand, and intensified the account given me by
my hosts, Monsieur and Madame Gourdet, who were
in the town at the time of the disaster.

The first shock, lasting about five seconds, came, by
way of warning, at a quarter to five in the morning,,
and was accompanied by a rumbling noise as of a
heavily laden train passing under the town northwards
— that is, from the mountains towards the open Steppe.
Everybody was aroused, and most persons dressed ; but
my host going out of doors, and seeing it to be a
lovely morning, with things looking as usual, and
thinking that, as on former occasions, the shock would
not be repeated, returned to bed.

Within another ten minutes, however, there came
a second shock, stronger and more lasting than the
first, which shook and ruined the whole neighbour-
hood. Indoors, the plaster of ceilings and walls fell,
first in morsels like hail, and soon, to the noise repeated
and increased underground, was added that of falling
tiles and bricks. For those in bed there was this time
no chance of dressing, and my hosts had scarcely
reached the exterior in their nightdresses, when the

VIERNY AFTER AN EARTHQUAKE. 131

massive Dutch stoves, the ceilings, the arches of doors
and windows tumbled in with a crash, and filled the
rooms with cUbris.

For some seconds the trembling ceased, but only to
be renewed with fresh force, under which the walls
began to fall and buildings to crack, whilst on all sides
was heard the crash of tumbling houses. The town
was covered with a cloud of dust so thick as to prevent
any one seeing farther than from 30 to 40 steps, and,
to add to the confusion, the frightened animals — oxen,
cows, dogs, and horses — rushed pell-mell through the
streets, making their way instinctively towards the
Steppe.

This violent agitation lasted for about three minutes,
almost without ceasing, after which the shocks became
weaker and shorter, and by half-past five my host was
able to dress and look about the town.

The houses appeared to have suffered in proportion
to their solidity. Those least damaged were the
buildings of wood, then the houses of sun-dried brick
and clay, whilst structures of burnt brick fared worst
of all.

It was not, however, in the town alone, but for a
radius of 30 miles from it, that the earthquake was felt.
In many instances the ground opened in chasms, some-
times hundreds of yards in length and several fathoms
in width. Out of these rents burst forth streams of
mud and water, whilst on the sides of the neighbouring
mountains many and huge landslips took place, the
sites of which were plainly visible at the time of my
visit.

An idea may be formed of the masses dislodged,
when I add that the Ak-Sai defile — which appears to
have been about the centre of the disturbance — was

132 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

choked with mud to a depth of 70 feet, over a breadth
as wide as the Thames at London Bridge. Perhaps
the most striking landslip of all was that of half a hill,
which, with its forest of firs still standing, majestically
slid down towards the plain.

It may be readily supposed that these " hydro-
chemical modifications of the crust of the earth," as
Messrs Oshanin and Gramenitsky call them,* caused
great damage and loss of life. In Vierny and its
neighbourhood were 328 victims, 180 occurring in
the town. In the Kiskilensk defile five men, digging
chalk, were buried under it ; and a Kirghese caught
by a landslip was carried by it for about two miles,
he springing the while from spot to spot to avoid
falling between the disrupted masses. Less happy
was the attempt of a Russian in the same neighbour-
hood. Taking his wife on his back, and two children
in his arms, he ascended a slope some distance out
of the way of the rolling mass ; but, exhausted by the
effort, he fell, and all were buried together.

A Cossack was riding in a defile when a landslip
occurred and caught his horse by the legs, whereupon
the rider jumped off and ran up an adjoining acclivity,
but only just in time to see his horse disappear en-
tirely. Too often the people, on coming out of their
izbas and seeing the advancing mass, set off running
towards the plains and were overtaken, whereas one
poor woman, with a child in her arms, had the presence
of mind to mount the hill above her house, and was
saved ; only, however, to see her family of five persons
buried a few steps below.

Thus the city of Vierny, with its brick houses to

* See translation, by Miss Hay, in Proceedings of the Royal Geogra-
phical Society, 1888, p. 638.

A MUD-STREA)

1 u numnnH

P**g€ 13a.

OF THE" \

Or Jj

VIERNY AFTER AN EARTHQUAKE. 133

the number of 1,840, was ruined, and the higher-class
people rushed for accommodation to the 840 humbler
wooden houses, of which only 30 were two-storied,
and whose owners retired in prospect of high tempo-
rary rents. Besides this, the Governor requisitioned
from the Kirghese nomads of the province scores,
if not hundreds, of felt tents, so that a considerable
proportion of the population dwelt for a while under
curtains, and things were still in a disorganised con-
dition when we arrived on May 29th.

Our outrider from Kiskilensk conducted us first to
the house inhabited temporarily by General IvanofT,
the Governor of Semirechia, who had been expecting
me some days, and had kindly arranged a dinner-party
for the preceding evening, previous to his necessary
departure, a few days later, on a tour of inspection.
My journey to Issik-Kul, however, had deprived me
of this pleasure, and also of staying with his Excel-
lency, who, rather than leave me in his empty house,
had asked M. Paul Gourdet, with whom I was already
acquainted, to entertain me.

M. Gourdet is a Frenchman by birth, but has lived
many years in Russian Turkistan, as well as some
time in England. He is on the staff of professors at
the local gymnase, or government school, and he also
holds the appointment of architect of the town. It
was natural, therefore, that he should have lost as little
time as possible in getting a house again over his own
head.

Into this he and Madame Gourdet had just settled,
and since he was kind enough to place his study at my
disposal, I found myself in excellent company and far
better quarters than I could have expected in a city
hardly as yet out of ruin. My luggage, however, had

134 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

not arrived, and therefore I had but to use the delay
in making further preparations, in addition to which
I set my servant and some of the natives to collect
specimens of the local fauna.

I have intimated that I drew my deposit of paper
roubles from the last bank we passed at Tashkend,
since doing which I had been carrying my fortune,
not, indeed, in my face, but at my waist. This, Sir
Robert Morier had told me at the capital, would be
nothing less than putting a premium on robbery.
I might have replied that it was only to gentlemen
of approved character like his Excellency to whom
I confided such secrets, besides which there was
nothing else to be done ; and I was getting along
with tolerable equanimity.

When, however, news reached me from Miss Hay
of the murder of Mr Dalgleish on the very road over
which I was to travel, it struck me as highly desirable
to send on to Kashgar as much of my money as
I could spare, so that if I reached there robbed and
spoiled there would be a fund awaiting me. It was
possible to send from Vierny to Narin any number
of rouble notes by post and insure them to the full
amount, but other packets could be insured at the
rate of \os. per cent, to an amount not exceeding
500 roubles each.

Two parcels, therefore, were made up of rupees and
one of roubles, and all three insured. Beyond Narin
the Governor kindly came to my assistance by
promising to arrange with Colonel Larionofif there,
to have the packets forwarded six or eight days
beyond, by Cossacks, with the monthly letters to M.
Petrovsky, the Russian Consul at Kashgar.

During our stay in Vierny occurred the anniversary

VIERNY AFTER AN EARTHQUAKE. 135

of the earthquake, duly inaugurated by another slight
shock, and locally observed by the consecration of a
small memorial chapel or oratory, built in one of the
avenues of the town. The slight shock alluded to
was one of a series that had been going on all through
the year, recognised only too surely by those who had
passed through the great calamity, but unperceived by
me. Thus I learned at breakfast on June 9th that
about one o'clock in the morning there had been a
shock sufficiently severe to rouse the servants out of
their beds.*

I did not see much of Russian Church matters or
military affairs during my stay, being too busy about
my overdue baggage, which had been causing me

* M. Gourdet, who had kept a seismic record for the previous 12
months, told me that after the fatal half-hour on May 28th (old style)
there were, from 5 to 9 a.m., continued shocks every 2 or 3 minutes,
accompanied by loud subterranean noises; from 9 to 12, shocks about
every 5 minutes ; and at 1.50, 2.35, and 4.0 tremblings that shook down
pieces of walls. At 4.30 came a violent, destructive shaking which
lasted 7 or 8 seconds, and caused walls to fall, so that many persons
who were getting out their furniture were killed or wounded.

All through the night of the 28-291)1 shocks were repeated at intervals
of 5, io, and 30 minutes, and on the 29th between 5.0 and 1.0 occurred
10 shocks. On the 30th were recorded 10 shocks; on the 31st, 8 ; on
June 1st, 7 ; and so on, with the exception of June 7th and 18th, shocks
up to 10 daily all the month.

In July the number per day decreased, but there were only 7 days
during the month when there was nothing to record. Subsequently,
shocks were felt on 15 days in August, 18 days in September, 4 days
in October, 7 in November, 14 in December, 18 in January, 3 in
February, 7 in March, 3 in April, and so on up to Easter Sunday, after
which they seem to have ceased till the anniversary of the earthquake.

According to my latest information from M. Gourdet (February 1891),
" The earthquake does not forget us, and from time to time we get
splendid shaking. On June 30th, 1889, we had a shock lasting 12
minutes almost as strong as that of 1887. We are now accustomed
to these shocks, and do not fear them since the new houses are built of
wood. This year we have had two or three shocks that may be called
good ones, and about a score of little ones not worth mentioning."

136 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

delay all along the road from Bokhara. Nineteen
packages, as already stated, were sent from England
by sea to Batoum, and when Batoum was a free port
merchandise intended for Persia or China passed
through, I suppose, easily enough. But now "nous
avons changd tout cela" and letter and telegram
awaiting my arrival at St Petersburg informed me
that to get my goods through the Batoum Custom-
house, especially in the absence of their owner,
without unpacking and the closest scrutiny, required
nothing less than the mandate of the Minister of
Finance at the capital.

Here M. Sabler was of great use, and took me first
to the Minister, M. Vishnegradsky, and then to the
Chief of the Customs ; with the result that, partly,
I think, in deference to the charitable mission I was
undertaking, and partly, perhaps, to the good recom-
mendations at my back, an exception was made in my
favour, and the Chief telegraphed to his subordinates
that 1 8 of my cases were to be sealed and allowed to
pass on their way unopened and without payment of
duty ; the remaining package, which was my lunch-
basket, being examined as usual.

This was a great concession, and I proceeded
promptly to arrange in St Petersburg with the
Russian Society for Transport that they should for-
ward the 1 8 cases a distance of 2,300 miles, from
Batoum to Vierny, which was their nearest depdt to
Kuldja, at the rate of 30^. per cwt, with insurance
at 13s. 4^. per cent., and that the time employed in
transit should not exceed six weeks.

On two occasions previously my heavy baggage had
been taken forward in time by slow transit to the
Urals and even Tiumen, the first town in Siberia,

VIERNY AFTER AN EARTHQUAKE. 137

by the brothers Kamensky ; but they had no office
in Vierny, and I was limited to the Russian Society,
which I fondly hoped would keep to its engagement,
or at all events be not more than a fortnight late,
which my arrangements permitted as a margin.

On reaching Batoum I found that Mr Peacock had
kindly sent forward the packages. The lunch-basket
was still in his care, and when I heard to what treat-
ment it had been subjected I shuddered at the thought
of what might have happened to the rest. It appeared
that two phlegmatic and precise custom-house officials
had inflicted thereon nothing less than a visitation that
lasted off and on for about three mortal hours.

There must, of course, be something uncanny about
a basket that called for a telegram from St Petersburg,
and accuracy was just then the order of the chief
of the day. Accordingly, everything was thoroughly
searched, weighed, valued, and entered ; but, with all
their exactitude, fluids were spilled and things not
put back properly. And I know not what might
have happened to the thousand and one knick-knacks
of the larger cases, the scores of bottles of medicine,
photographic negatives, and well-nigh innumerable
presents for the natives !

Mr Peacock handed me the receipt wherewith to
claim the goods and pay for their carriage at Vierny,
and upon our arrival at Baku on March 30th the goods
were said to have been sent forward on the 3rd of the
month. So far all was well, though matters began to
look suspicious when, on inquiring next at Charjui on
April 9th, it appeared that the packages had reached
the end of the railway only on March 18th, and had
been sent forward three days later on camels to
Bokhara. From Bokhara it was said they would

138 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

proceed to Tashkend on arbas, and thence to Vierny
by Russian telegas^ or waggons.

To my great disgust, however, on reaching Bokhara
on April 14th, I found that the goods had been de-
spatched only a week previously on camels, and that
they would take 20 days to reach Tashkend ; further,
that there was no means of communicating with the
carriers or spurring them on, since they were not
going by the telegraph route, but across the Steppe.
It was useless to fret or to hurry forward, so we
spent several days in Bokhara and Samarkand, and
reached Tashkend to learn that the caravan was
expected in three days.

It was disheartening, however, to be told that
another 30 days would be needed for transit to
Vierny. Could nothing be done to accelerate matters ?
I asked of the agent, who, by-the-by, had seen me
six years previously at Petro-Alexandrovsk, and
seemed disposed to be friendly and helpful. He
led me to believe that under pressure 15 or 16
days might suffice. Also that, if I would pay a
douceur of 30?. for the hire of extra horses, he hoped
to get the goods to Vierny by May 25th. This I
paid, and as soon as the baggage had left Tashkend
we quickly followed, made the ditour to Issik-Kul, and
reached Vierny to find, as already said, my baggage
not come.

The first news received was that it had left Pishpek
on June 4th ; then, three days later, that delay had
been occasioned by the death of one of the carrier's
horses ; and presently what seemed to be the truth
eked out, that the dishonest Kirghese carrier, having
received the extra money, slipped it into his purse,
and handed over the job to a brother of the craft, who,

VIERNY AFTER AN EARTHQUAKE. 139

hearing nothing of the extra speed required, took his
time.

On the 8th four packages were said to have arrived,
and a horseman was sent out into the Steppe to ex-
pedite the rest, whereupon the agent showed me a
letter said to have come from Tashkend, and pretend-
ing that I had promised to pay for a messenger into
the Steppe if the goods did not arrive in time. I
denied having made any such promise, and claimed
that the amount of the douceur should be refunded,
whereupon the agent wrote what he called an "act,"
setting forth the belated arrival of the goods, and this
was countersigned by the agent, M. Gourdet, myself,
and the head of police, as an instrument wherewith
I was to threaten vengeance, claim damages, etc., etc.,
the end of the matter being that when the goods
reached Vierny they had been thirteen weeks on the
road instead of six. Needless to add, I have received
back none of the douceur.

A local carrier was now found who undertook to
transport to the Chinese frontier at Jarkend the 18
packages, and nine others added, in all weighing 60
poods, or nearly a ton. For doing this he was to
receive 65 kopecks per pood> and to be only eight
days on the road. He started on the day after the
arrival of the goods at Vierny, and we quickly followed.

In many respects our stay in Vierny had been a
pleasant one. M. Gourdet was full of information,
and Madame of hospitality. Both were helpful in
enabling me to make preparations of various kinds,
to say nothing of hints and suggestions whereby many
hundreds, not to say thousands, of specimens of the
fauna were collected, of which last more hereafter.

CHAPTER XI.

FROM VIERNY TO THE CHINESE FRONTIER.

Departure from Vierny, and meeting an Englishman at Ilisk, 140. — A
gang of Siberian exiles ; False statement as to their chains, 141. —
Altitude of Ilisk, 142. — Crossing bridge ; Geology of the road ;
Need of sound wheels ; Road to Jarkend, 143. — Hospitality pro-
vided, 144. — Introduction to a rich native ; Offers of service from
Prjevalsky's guides, 145. — Arrangements for money, and modes
of conveyance ; Purchase of cart and horses, 146. — Kindness of
Yuldasheff; Departure from Jarkend, and review of Russian
favours, 147. — Driving towards the frontier, and warnings as to
being stopped, 148. — Advised to approach from Peking, 149. —
Deprived of interpreter, 150. — Cossacks for escort, and ''success
number one " ; Site of ancient Almalik ; Martyrdom of mediaeval
Christians ; To and at Suiting ; Acrival at Kuldja, 151.

WE left Vierny early on the morning of June 1 3th,
driving across the Steppe about 150 miles,
along the course of the Almati, and gradually descend-
ing 1,000 feet to the river Hi, which gives its name to
the station of Ilisk on its western bank. It was of no
use attempting to arrive at Jarkend much in advance
of our luggage, because the place was said to be small
and without an inn.

At Ilisk, therefore, we stopped for a day to collect
specimens, and met a fellow-countryman named John
Norman, the first Englishman we had seen, if I
remember rightly, east of the Oxus.

Near the Ilisk post-house is an itape* where we saw

FROM VIERNY TO THE CHINESE FRONTIER. 141

our last batch of exiles on their way to Siberia. Some
had half-shaven heads, signifying that they were
criminals of the worst category, including murderers,
homicides, etc., and some had chains on their legs ;
but I do not remember seeing any handcuffed.*

A CONVICT \VITH_,HALF-5HAVEN HEAD.

* The leg-chains reminded me of a passage in the novelette Called
Back) which roused much anti- Russian feeling in England a few years
since, and has often been reproduced on the stage. The author says :
" We passed many gangs of convicts plodding along to their fate.
Ivan told me that most of them were in chains. This I should not have
noticed, as the irons are only on the legs and worn under the trousers "
(Called Back) by Hugh Conway, pseudonym for the late F. J. Fargus,
p. 129).

Now, I have had ample opportunity of examining scores, not to say
hundreds, of Russian leg-chains, and at this moment I have an ordinary
set, with a prison suit, in my own possession. I once put them on and
was photographed, and engravings made therefrom, but with the face
altered, have gone over the world in the pages of my own books, as
well as those of various periodicals (see Through Siberia , p. 155 ;
Leisure Houry March 1881 ; Harper's Magazine ', May 1888).

From these pictures it will be seen that the chain, 30 inches long,
fastened to each ankle, could not be worn under the trousers. Yet the
humane author (who by-the-by had never seen Russia, much less Siberia)
adds : " Poor wretched beings, my heart ached for them ! " And so,
doubtless, has that of many of his readers, but quite needlessly, for
these chains worn under the trousers are pure fiction.

142

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Setting out from Ilisk in the evening, we crossed a
portion of the Turkistan plains, 500 feet above Lake

CHAINS AMD SUMMER COSTUME OF SIBERIAN PRISONER.

Balkash and 1,300 feet above sea-level, to which
point I call attention only to observe that we did not

FROM VIERNY TO THE CHINESE FRONTIER. 143

again dip to so low an altitude until, after crossing
three at least of the very high mountain ranges of the
world, we descended six months later to the plains of
India.

Our road, after leaving the loess and culturable
formations about Vierny, lay across a region of river
and lake deposits which continued beyond our first
station and some five-and-twenty miles east of the Hi.
Then we began to ascend over crystalline limestone
and argillaceous schists, as well as porphyries and
quartz-felsite, up to a height of 4,000 feet above sea-
level, to the post-station of Altyn-Immel.

Here necessity obliged us to stay once more for the
repair of the tarantass, the loan of which had been a
great accommodation. I had, it will be noticed, to
learn over again the lesson taught me in Siberia
— namely, the importance of seeing a vehicle put
thoroughly in order before starting on a posting jour-
ney. This was supposed to have been done in
Tashkend at a cost of 30?., but 8s. more had to be
expended after a three days' run to Pishpek.

The stony road through the Buam Pass enabled
one to appreciate to the full the wisdom of M. Bartsch,
the Bible Society's Agent in Tashkend, who said that
when going to Kara-Kol he took a post telega, and left
his tarantass, having regard to its wheels, at Tokmak.
This unfortunately I could not do, and, in consequence,
we had to stop for repairs at the top of the Pass, again
at Kara-Kol, and once more, in returning, at Kutemaldi,
where also the shaking was found to have damaged
not only the wheels, but to have knocked holes in the
bottoms of my spirit cases, jam tins, and fish cylinders.

All this involved, not only expense, but loss of time,
and the worst had not yet happened, for on returning

H4 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

to Pishpek the near forewheel was pronounced un-
sound and was put in dock for five hours, whilst within
twelve hours afterwards occurred the incident already
recorded, when one of the hind wheels fell to pieces.
Six shillings and the Cossack prisoners helped us out
of this disaster, and then twenty shillings more were
expended at Vierny for the general improvement of
the concern, the said improvement lasting less than
four-and-twenty hours ; for, according to my notes, one
of the wheels was pronounced " out of sorts " and we
were detained a few more hours at Altyn-Immel.

This, however, I am thankful to say, was the last
hindrance of this sort, and we now crossed the Pass,
continuing over geological formations similar to the
high regions just described, and then descending and
crossing for 30 miles over river and lake deposits
nearly to the station of Konurolen. Here again to-
wards evening we made our way amongst rugged hills
composed of the rocks already mentioned, and others
in addition belonging to the Tertiary and Jurassic
systems, and including diorite, diabase, and porphyrite.
Thus, after posting through the night, on the morn-
ing of Saturday, June 16th, we reached Jarkend.

The Nachalnik of Jarkend (or Yarkend, as the
natives call it) was away on inspection duty, but my
coming was anticipated, and two rooms in the post-
house had been placed at my disposal, with a policeman
at the door in attendance. There was also told off*
to be with and to help me a young officer named
Dmitriefif who had been degraded to the ranks and
sent hither into exile, but the cause of his banishment
I did not then inquire into particularly.

Upon calling upon Madame Natalie Paulovna
Seletsky, the Nachalnik *s wife, she asked me to dine

FROM VIERNY TO THE CHINESE FRONTIER. 145

at her house daily during my stay, for which purpose
she sent her carriage and ponies to fetch me and
M. Dmitrieff, who acted as interpreter. I met also at
the Nachalniks house the police-master, named Berg,
who was attentive and helpful in making arrangements
for and sending off to Kuldja my luggage, which,
with two men — Redjap and Erbudu — arrived in even
less than the time specified.

The chief thing that prevented my pushing forward
at once was the temporary absence of a certain Sart
merchant, named Vali Akhoun Yuldasheff, to whom
I had been warmly commended in writing by M.
Gourdet, and who had been described to me as one
who during the insurrection supplied corn to the
Chinese army, owned a flour-mill in the Kuldja valley,
had business houses all along the road to Kashgar,
could give me money drafts, procure me horses and
guides, change my Russian money, and in fact do
everything, so that he seemed a most desirable person
to know and to have as a patron in Chinese Turkistan.
Moreover, it was said that my official letters, and my
recommendation from the Governor-General Kolpa-
kovsky, would be sure to enlist the hearty co-operation
of this local potentate and millionaire.

On the day of our arrival there came one Tokhta
Akhoun and offered his services to me, saying that he
had been one of Prjevalsky's guides. Next day
appeared Abdul Abbasid, in the employ of Vali
Akhoun, and who said he was receiving 18 roubles
a month and all found. He could prepare skins of
animals, had acted as Prjevalsky's interpreter, and
was willing similarly to accompany me for 30 roubles
a month and 50 down. But as his only European
language was Russian, I declined his offer, and as the

vol. 1. 10

146 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

police-master advised me against Tokhta Akhoun, I
decided to take neither.

The third day came without the appearance of
Yuldasheff, but his brother, as well as the manager
of his business, called on me. From them I gathered
that they could do far less in the way of money
arrangements than I had hoped, but they could in
exchange for 1,160 paper roubles give an order? on
Suiting for a pood of yambsy or lumps, of silver, which
amount accordingly I purchased. It was not so easy
to decide as to what was the best method of convey-
ance ; and opinions varied greatly as to whether I
could travel from Kuldja to Kashgar in a tarantass.*

Some advised native arbas, or carts with huge
wheels, but without springs ; and several, out of pity
for my bones, suggested that one should be fitted with
network stretched across a few inches above the floor,
whereon I might sleep comfortably.

Others advised the purchase of horses, which, they
said, were cheaper at Jarkend than at Kuldja, a state-
ment afterwards denied at Kuldja. I confess to
having been fairly puzzled what to do for the best,
especially as the purchase of horses was not at all in
my line ; but finally I bought an arba rigged up with
netting, and three big draught horses, a Kirghese cob
for Joseph, and a saddle-horse for myself, the whole
for ,£25. Nor must one think lightly of these animals,

* The Talki defile and its numerous bridges was alleged to be the
chief difficulty. It was said that M. Balkashin, once Russian Consul
at Chuguchak, had travelled that way in his tarantass, but he was
escorted by a body of Cossacks, who, if the carriage fell into a ditch,
could lift it out. Besides, it was doubted whether the Chinese smiths
would be able to repair a vehicle to which they were unaccustomed, and
the novelty of the carriage would attract attention. I decided, there-
fore, that it would be better for the missionary aspect of my work to
abandon the tarantass.

FROM VIERNY TO THE CHINESE FRONTIER. 147

for I venture to say that my own, which the police-
master professed to sell me as a great favour, would
have fetched in London double the amount I paid for
the cart and all the horses put together.

On the fourth day I was informed that Yuldasheff
had returned, and calling upon him in his semi-
Russian, semi-Chinese furnished house, he seemed
disposed to be useful. He even put off on my account
a journey he intended to make, promised me letters
of introduction to Turfan, Kurla, Kuchar, Aksu, and
Kashgar, and engaged to provide me trustworthy men
if I telegraphed from Kuldja.

He also urged my stay till the morrow, in which
case he would provide for my tarantass a troika of
horses, send with me his manager, who was going
to Suiting, and arrange that my arba and horses
should be despatched to Kuldja. Next morning,
accordingly, the tarantass was re-packed for departure
from my last Russian town, at the end of a journey
through the Empire of 5,000 miles in 115 days, but
50 days of actual travel.

The many kindnesses everywhere offered me will
already have struck the reader. They began at Wir-
ballen in passing me unquestioned through the
Custom-house. At St Petersburg the authorities
denied me nothing, and allowed my goods to pass
through Batoum, as I have said, without examination
or payment of duty. Then began steamboat and
railway favours — a compartment placed at my con-
venience to and from Uzun Ada, and a whole
carriage from Merv, to say nothing of the little
house on wheels with free carriage beyond the Oxus,
and lodging in the houses of two of the engineers
at Katte Kurgan and Samarkand.

148 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

The governors and officials were not less kind in
affording me an amount of hospitality quite unexpected
and entirely unasked on my part, taking me in some-
times as guest in private houses, as at Charjui,
Bokhara, Jizak, Chimkend, and Vierny, and at others
accommodating me in guest-houses, as at Tashkend,
Kara-Kol, and Jarkend, and this so fully that, with the
exception of the little inn at Bokhara station when
awaiting trains, I did not go to one hotel between the
Caspian and our point of leaving the Russian
dominions.

Nor must I forget dinners at Tiflis, Askhabad,
Charjui, Samarkand, Tashkend, Vierny, and Jarkend ;
telegraphic and written communications from the
Government at the capital to the authorities along our
route, as well as despatches from the Governor-General
and Governors in Asia to their subordinates at Merv,
the Bokhara customs, Chimkend, Pishpek, Narin, and
Vierny ; and, finally, horsemen and messengers sent
hundreds of miles on my account over the mountains
to Kara-Kol and Kashgar.

Indeed, if it is our duty to " speak of people as we
find them," I had the most superlative reasons for
speaking well of the Russians, and for bowing my
thanks as we drove out of the station of Jarkend.

I wished to start at seven in the morning, but delays
of one kind and another kept us for six hours. Then
we set out with Yuldasheffs manager to drive 24 miles
to the river Khorgos, which here forms the boundary
between Russia and China. This we did in about
three hours without mishap, though a hitch occurred on
coming to the last Cossack picket, where Yuldasheffs
manager for some reason was detained, and not allowed
to proceed.

FROM VIERNY TO THE CHINESE FRONTIER. 149

This was decidedly awkward, for, though I could
command a score or two of words in Russian, I knew
not one in Chinese, and it seemed no joke to be left to
cross the frontier alone, especially as I had been assured
in England that I should not be allowed to enter China
from the west.

My advisers from the outset, beginning with Mr
Ney Elias, had recommended approaching Chinese
Turkistan from Peking. The proper way, they said,
was to go to the Tsung-li- Yamen, or Foreign Office,
and ask for a passport to the interior, which passport
in my case, Sir Thomas Wade thought, they would not
give ; whilst for an Englishman to enter from the west
was a thing unheard-of, and, he thought, would not be
allowed.

In keeping with this was a note received by a friend
from an under-official at the Chinese Legation in
London, who said there was but one way the thing
could be done. He advised that I should go to Peking,
and call upon the British Minister there, begging him
to send a despatch to the Tsung-li- Yamen, acquainting
them with all my wishes, explaining and stating fully
what places and districts I should like to visit ; and then
the Tsung-li-Yamen would grant the necessary pass-
port, and the local authorities in the different places
through which I might pass would be responsible for
my protection, but otherwise it would not be safe to
go far into the interior.

This was not encouraging, and Mr Hudson Taylor,
notwithstanding all his faith and hope, wrote: "The
more I think of your present plans, the more I fear
their failure. The absence of such a passport as you
could only procure personally at Peking will, I fear,
keep you back."

150 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Again, a member of the British Embassy at Peking,
who happened to be in London, said that the corre-
spondence for procuring such passports passed through
his own hands, and he urged the absolute necessity
of my having the document from Peking, because
without it I should be turned back ; and when I
showed him, perhaps a little triumphantly, the passport
I had received, he recognised it as valid in form, but
shook his head, saying, "I am horribly afraid that
when you get to the frontier they will ignore it, and
refuse to let you pass."

After all these monitions I had thought it desirable
to strengthen my position, as advised, by asking
another letter from the Chinese Minister at Berlin.
I had accepted also at Jarkend, as a second string to
my bow, a Russian document or passport enabling
me to travel in China, and I had, besides, my British
passport and London letters ; but, even thus furnished,
to go and knock at a remote back door of the Empire,
kept by a few ignorant Chinese soldiers, to whom
none of my party could speak a word of their language,
looked rather formidable.

I accordingly produced my Russian letters, and
asked the officer to lend me a couple of Cossacks for
an escort to Kuldja. A few minutes sufficed for their
preparations, and with these in advance I charged the
p'ai fang, or gateway, built on or near the bridge
spanning the Khorgos.

What the Cossacks said or did I know not ; but the
great doors, with " warders," or painted dragons, flew
open, my tarantass rolled majestically through, without
my being stopped, or, so far as I remember, asked for
my passport, and in five minutes we were calmly
driving through the fields of the Flowery Land and

FROM VIERNY TO THE CHINESE FRONTIER. 151

among the Celestials, quizzing their pigtails and feeling
on excellent terms with ourselves and the world in
general. This was success " number one " in China.

Passing over a flat, cultivated country, lit up by the
declining sun, we passed, at ten miles from Khorgos,
a place called Alimptu, the modern representative, as
some say, of the ancient Almalik, so often mentioned
by mediaeval travellers. This agrees with what Dr
Bretschneider has written ; and M. Pantusoff told me
at Vierny that he thought the ruins existing near the
modern Chinese town of Lao-tsao-ghoo to be those of
Almalik.

It would be highly interesting if another cemetery
could be discovered here, as at Pishpek and Tokmak,
for we know that once there were Christians at
Almalik, both of the Nestorian and Roman Churches.

I myself, at the moment, expected to pass the spot
again on my way to the Talki defile, and it was my
intention to have stayed, if possible, to investigate the
ruins ; but for the present we sped forward past the
town of Chimpanzee to Suiting.

Suiting (pronounced Soo-ee-ting, and spelt also
Suitsing, and meaning, I was told, u a spring of
water") is called by the Russians Suidun. The
Russian capital was at Kuldja, where their Consul still
resides ; a superior ,post-house only, with large garden
attached, being kept up at Suiting. At this post-
house, where lived the only Europeans in the place,
we arrived at midnight. Here we slept till morning,
and then pushed on with our Cossacks the remaining
26 miles through a thickly populated country, and
arrived on the afternoon of June 21st at Kuldja.

CHAPTER XII.

MANCHURIA, MONGOLIA, SUNGARIA.

China within and beyond the Wall ; Outer China girdled by mountains ;
Former extent of China's dominion ; Character of surface, 153. —
Political divisions of Outer China, 154. — Manchuria; its boundaries,
dimensions, mountains,, and rivers ; its provinces, government,
and population, 155. — Our knowledge of Manchuria, and whence
acquired ; Nomad tribes, their Shamanism, and partial conver-
sion, 156. — Manchuria colonised by Chinese; Manchu, the court
and official language of China ; Efforts to Christianise Man-
churia, 158. — Mongolia; its dimensions and climate, 160. — Divisions
and towns of Mongolia ; Kiakhta, and tea route ; Inhabitants of
Mongolia, 161. — The Mongols, lamaists, 162. — Missionaries' trans-
lation of Bible still in use ; Baptisms by Russian missionaries ;
Missions to southern Mongols, 163. — A difficult but open field, 164. —
Sungaria ; its depressions a highway to and from the Turkistan
plains; Three districts of Sungaria, 165.— Chuguchak; its troops
and trade, 166. — District of Kara-kur-usu ; its lakes and towns ;
The imperial high road to Hami, 168. — History of the Sungars,
and their approximate extermination ; Sungaria repeopled by various
nationalities, 169. — Translation of Scriptures into Kalmuk ; Another
field for missionary effort, 170.

ARRIVED at Kuldja, we were really in China,
though only midway between Moscow and
Peking. So little, however, is this generally realised
that more than one friend, pointing to Kuldja on the
map, has asked me, " Do you mean to say that China
extends all out there ? " Let me, then, observe that
the Chinese Empire may be divided into China within,

MANCHURIA, MONGOLIA, SUNG ARIA. 153

and China beyond, the Wall. China within the Wall,
or China proper, is known more or less to every one,
and of its 18 provinces I need say little here.

China beyond the Wall is girdled by mountains.
Thus, beginning northwards at the Sea of Okhotsk
with the Yablonoi Mountains, and continuing west-
wards in a semicircle, we have a succession of ranges
— the Saian, the Altai, Tian Shan, Tsung-ling, and
Himalayas — which bring us by a fairly continuous
frontier line of 6,000 miles to Yunnan, the south-west
province of China proper.

In her palmy days, and at various other times, the
power of China extended not only to the ridges of all
these mountains, but overflowed in some cases, as in
the south, to Nepal and Butan, and westward down
into the plains as far as the Caspian. In Bokhara I
found traces of this remote dominion, for, on asking
who built the city walls, they were traditionally
ascribed to the Chinese ; whilst another statement, in
praise of the melons of Khiva, informs us that they
used to form part of the tribute taken all across Asia
to the Emperor at Peking.

The rule of China long ago retired from the Trans-
Caspian plains, and the dividing line between Iran and
Turan, or Turks and Chinese, has been shifted from
time to time ; but China appears for many centuries to
have considered as her own, whether the whole was
enjoyed for the moment or not, all the territory within
the above-named mountains.

The general slope of this vast region, as indicated
by the course of its rivers, is towards the Pacific,
though many streams are confined to land-locked
basins and do not reach the ocean. The surface of
the region consists, for the most part, of enormous

154 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

deserts, and a number of lofty tablelands, such as are
possessed by no other empire in the world, whilst here
and there only, and chiefly on the skirts of the moun-
tains, are tracts of arable land.

It is a noteworthy circumstance that the southern
, side of the mountains is always bare and scarped,
presenting to the eye a chaos of overturned rocks,
heaped one upon another. Only the side facing the
north is covered with bushes, or presents gentle slopes
of soil that may be cultivated. Near the valleys are
seen, here and there, crooked and stunted poplars and
willows, whilst the majority of the inhabitants spend
their lives in dire poverty, the like to which is
unknown in civilised countries. Even where the soil
is good, the harvest is always uncertain, because rain
seldom falls before the end of June, and then only for
three weeks. At all other times a shower is a welcome
exception.

The Chinese themselves, according to Wells
Williams, divide their empire beyond the Wall into
Manchuria and the Colonies ; understanding by the
Colonies, Mongolia, Hi (now Sin-Kiang, or New Pro-
vince, comprising Sungaria and Chinese Turkistan),
Koko-Nor, and Tibet. Accordingly, I proceed to speak
briefly here of Manchuria, Mongolia, and Sungaria.
The remaining colonies will be noticed hereafter.

Manchuria comprises the most easterly portion of
the high tableland that runs across the centre of Asia.
Its northern limits, first defined at the Treaty of
Nertchinsk in 1688, extended to the Sea of Okhotsk,
and continued along a line westwards, which embraced
what are now the Siberian provinces of the Amur
and part of the Trans- Baikal ; whilst on the east
Manchuria extended to the Pacific.

MANCHURIA, MONGOLIA, SUNGARIA. 155

Later, in 1858, the Russians managed to wrest from
the Chinese, during their trouble with England and
France, all Manchuria north of the Amur — a territory
larger than the whole of France — together with the
seaboard east of the Ussuri ; so that now the province
of Manchuria is bounded on the north and east by
the Amur and its affluent the Ussuri, on the south-
east by Korea, and on the south by the Yellow Sea.
On the west, towards Mongolia, it has no such
prominently defined natural boundaries ; but beginning
from the north, the west frontier follows the course of
the Argun, and then takes a south-easterly direction,
along the rivers Nonni and Sungari, to what was once
the Palisade, or barrier of stakes.

Chinese Manchuria measures approximately 800 by
500 miles. The province includes three principal
mountain chains, which serve to give variety to its
surface of sandy wastes, rich arable lands, grassy
steppes, and extensive forests. Of its two rivers,
the Shara-muren, flowing into the Yellow Sea, is of
little use for navigation ; but the Sungari, flowing into
the Amur, forms a highway by which numerous fleets
of junks make their way from town to town.

Manchuria is divided into three provinces, Shinking,
Kirin, and Tsitsihar, the capitals respectively being
Mukden, Kirin-ula-hotun, and Tsitsihar-hotun. The
country is ruled by military boards and generals at the
garrisons. Every male above the age of 1 8 is enrolled,
according to his birth, under one of eight standards.
The population of Shinking has been estimated, ac-
cording to Williams, at twelve millions, of Kirin at
less than three millions, whilst Tsitsihar is to a large
extent an uninhabited mountainous wilderness.

Of a large part of Manchuria we know almost

156 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

nothing, and before the advent of the Russians we
knew less. When, at the time of the Crimean War,
these first descended the Amur in numbers, their troops
were accompanied by men of science, to whom we
owe our first glimpses of this part of Manchuria.
Some of their information reached the English public
in the volumes of Atkinson, who described, but never
saw, The Upper and Lower Amoor.

Later, there appeared in the United States two
volumes on the Amur by the Americans Collins and
Knox, after which it fell to my lot to be the first
English traveller to describe from personal observation
the entire length of the river, as also the Ussuri.
Since my voyage the reverse journey has been made
in winter, on the ice, by Mr L. F. Gowing, as detailed
in Five Thousand Miles in a Sledge across Siberia.

Certain parts of Southern Manchuria adjacent to
China were described by Fleming and Williamson.
In 1882 two French travellers — M. de Mailly-Chalon
and the Baron Benoist-Mechin — made a remarkable
journey through Southern Manchuria to Vladivostock,
and the latest book on the region is that of Mr James,
called The Long White Mountain.

The Manchus, or Mandjoors, after whom the
country is named, were originally nomads who, in
1644, conquered the "middle kingdom" and placed
the present dynasty on the Chinese throne. When
ascending the Upper and Middle Amur I saw certain
tribes — for instance, the Solons, Manyargs, and
Orochons — who still wander along the river banks;
but the majority of the Manchus are now settled,
and are rapidly becoming absorbed by the nation they
conquered.

The nomad tribes most distant from China proper

158 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

are still Shamanists, who believe in evil spirits and
in the necessity of averting their malign influence by
spells and magic rites, as I found to be the case with
the Gilyaks and Goldi, on the Lower Amur and
Ussuri ; but I met a Russian missionary on the Amur
who in 23 years had baptised 2,000 natives, of whom
403 were Orochons and 1,501 were Goldi.

He thought that all the Gilyaks in his district were
baptised, which might well be the case, seeing that
formerly natives were baptised by Russian missionaries
in crowds without their understanding much of what
was being done, though this missionary said in his
own case he had required them first to know certain
prayers.

In Chinese Manchuria the Government commenced
its colonisation of the country by establishing military
stations, and banishing thither convicts, as well as
criminals and political exiles. A great many Chinese
Muhammadans also are expatriated thither, and have
their own mosques and schools, all assisting to make
the population of Manchuria of a very mixed character
as to origin, language, and religion.

So largely are the Chinese colonists taking posses-
sion of the land that the Manchu language might
have been extinct before this, but for its being that
of the reigning family. This has caused it to become
one of the classic languages of the empire, so that
all high functionaries need to acquire it, since it is the
language of the court, and of state documents in some
parts, for my passports and official papers at Kuldja
were written in Turki, Chinese, and Manchu.*

As for efforts to Christianise Manchuria, they were

* This, however, I am told by M. de Deken is exceptional, for that
in China, as at Liang-chow, where there is a strong Manchu garrison,

MANCHURIA, MONGOLIA, SUNG ARIA. 159

begun, according to Mr Ravenstein,* in 1838, by
Roman missionaries, one of whom, M. de la Brunidre, in
1845 descended the Amur, alone, to the Gilyaks. He
went on shore, and at the White Village was murdered.

When passing the spot more than 30 years after-
wards, the bay was pointed out to me where he met
his death. I came across a man whose father, he
said, had told him about the missionary, and an
elderly Russian officer who affirmed that, going to
the place in the early years of Russian occupation, the
people still had in their possession the missionary's
crucifix, watch, and spoons, which the Russians bought.

After my distribution of Scriptures along the Amur
in 1879, I heard of a colporteur being subsequently
sent over the same ground by the American Bible
Society, but I suspect that both he and I touched only
the Russian population.

In the south of Manchuria, the British and Foreign
Bible Society have a dep6t at Newchwang, under
the direction of Mr Robert Turley, who, with his
colporteurs, has circumambulated a large portion of
the country, his sales being chiefly, I think, among
Chinese.

At Hsi-wan-tze, eight days north of Peking, there
are, M. de Deken tells me, a bishop and sixteen
Belgian missionaries, with nine Chinese priests ; and,
farther east, north of the barrier of stakes, at Gehol,
Hei-hsui, etc., there is another bishop with eleven
Belgian missionaries and seven Chinese priests.

There are also Scotch and Irish Presbyterian

all the state papers are in Chinese, and the Manchu military chiefs
stationed there no longer know their national language, but speak
Chinese only.
* Through Siberia, p. 612,

160 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

missionaries at Newchwang, Mukden, Kirin, and some
few other stations, but none of the Church of England.
There still exists, therefore, an extensive field for
missionary effort in this little-known country.

We now pass westwards to Mongolia, which is first
in order of the Chinese colonies, and covers an area
nearly as large as China proper.

It consists of an elevated plain, at an altitude of
4,000 feet above the sea. The climate is excessively
cold and dry, and the soil, except in the acclivities of
the mountains, unfit for agriculture, though there are
sufficient grass-lands, especially in the north, to sup-
port the flocks of the nomad inhabitants, who number,
it is estimated, about two millions.

The character of the inhabitants of Mongolia, M.
de Deken tells me, is made up of excellent qualities
and abominable defects. Advancing westwards, the
people become more warm-hearted, until among the
Mongol nomads is attained the height of simplicity.

More noteworthy still is the difference between east
and west as to temperature, soil, and vegetation. At
the barrier of stakes the mean temperature of summer
attains 7f9 and they harvest indigo, cotton, poppy,
rice, and superior tobacco, renowned as of Kuang-
tong ; whereas in Central Mongolia the soil barely
produces a little wheat, oats, buckwheat, and millet.
Winter lasts in Central Mongolia for eight months,
with a thermometer in December and January at
310 below zero.*

* This last remark is confirmed by a table of isothermal lines drawn
up by M. Fritsche, director of the Russian Observatory at Peking,
wherein the line falls in proportion as it advances towards Central
Mongolia, and rises at the frontiers, this table being drawn up from
daily observations taken from 25 observatories between the latitudes of
Yakutsk and Bangkok.

MANCHURIA, MONGOLIA, SUNG ARIA. 161

The principal divisions of Mongolia, according to
Williams, are four: — i. Inner Mongolia, lying be-
tween the south of the Gobi and the Wall, having
no common capital. Each tribe is governed by its
chief, and the whole by the Foreign Office in Peking.
2. Outer Mongolia, between the north of the Gobi
and the Altai Mountains. This is subdivided into
four khanates, and governed by four Khalkhas Khans
under two Manchu residents seated at the common
capital, Urga. 3. The country about Koko- Nor — that
is, north-east of Tibet — administered under a Manchu
resident, and having for its capital Sining, in Kansu.
4. The dependencies of Uliassutai, lying north-west-
ward of the Khalkhas Khanates, consisting of Kobdo
and Ulianghai, ruled by an Amban and chieftains, and
having Uliassutai as the capital.

Towns in Mongolia are few and far between.
I have mentioned nearly all of them, but may add
Kiakhta on the Russian frontier.*

As for the inhabitants of Mongolia, they may be

* Kiakhta is about 200 miles north of Urga, whither most of the
Mongolian trade routes converge. It is the chief station on what was,
and to some extent still is, the great tea highway between Kiakhta and
Kalgan, the latter at one of the gates in the Great Wall. This route
was opened by the Treaty of Argun in 1858, soon after which it was
travelled by Mr Wylie, of the British and Foreign Bible Society. My
neighbour at Blackheath, Mr Howell, in 1863, crossed from Shanghai
to Kiakhta in company with Mr Michie, who wrote the Siberian Over'
land Route from Peking to St Petersburg.

Mr Michie was followed by three English writers — in 1869 DV Mr
Athenry Whyte, in 1875-6 by Professor John Milne, and in 1877 DV
Captain W. Sheppard — after whom came the late Mr Gilmour, of the
London Missionary Society, whose journey to Kiakhta was spoken of
as recent when I was there in 1879. Since this date the journey has
been made by Mr Harry de Windt, who crossed Mongolia in August
1887 and published From Peking to Calais by Land, and by Mr
Julius Price, who travelled in 1891 From the Arctic Ocean to the
Yellow Sea.

VOL. I. 11

162 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

roughly divided into — i. The Buriats in the north-east,
through a portion of whose country I drove from
Kiakhta, when traversing the Trans-Baikal ; 2. The
Kalmuks in the west — that is to say, of Sungaria and
the Hi and Tekes valleys — with whom I came in daily
contact during a portion of the present journey, and
to whom may be added the Ulianghai tribes of the
Upper Yenesei basin, a race somewhat akin to the
Samoyedes ; 3. The Khalkhas of the centre, which
in the north are the most numerous and widely
spread ; whilst south of the Gobi, towards the east,
are the eight tribes of the Tsakhars, governed by
a tutungy or lieutenant-general, residing at Kalgan ;
and west of them, in the fluvial peninsula formed by
the Yellow River outside the Wall, are the Ordos,
or Ortus.

The Mongols are usually spoken of as Buddhists,
but they have so far departed from the teaching of the
founder of that faith, and are so unlike the Buddhists
of south-eastern Asia and Ceylon, that I prefer to call
the Mongols Lamaists. Their sovereign is the Grand
Lama of Tibet, to whose capital at Lassa they make
frequent pilgrimages.

At Urga dwells another high priest and inferior
incarnation called the Kutuktu, to whom the tribes
of that region owe religious fealty, and by whom they
are kept in subjection. For this assistance in the
government of the country the Chinese pay the
ecclesiastics and ruling princes (whom it reserves the
right of deposing) yearly subventions, varying, accord-
ing to R6clus, from ^30 to ^800, according to their
rank ; and thus the natives are said to be not a little
lama-ridden and oppressed.

At the time of Jinghiz Khan the Mongols were

MANCHURIA, MONGOLIA, SUNGARIA. 163

Shamanists, as are still some of the Buriat tribes
remote from Tibet in the Trans- Baikal. Early in the
present century the London Missionary Society was
allowed to send to the neighbourhood of Kiakhta, to
the Buriats under Russian rule, English missionaries,
who translated the whole of the Bible into Mongolian,
and established a small school at Selenginsk.

They were compelled, however, to retire in 1 840 by
an ukase dismissing all foreign missionaries from the
Russian dominions, under the pretext that the Synod
wished to do all the mission work for the pagans of
the Empire. Some of the scholars trained by the
English were subsequently baptised by Russian
missionaries ; and when calling (as I crossed the
Trans- Baikal) upon one of these, who was working
among the Buriats, I found in his possession many
of these Buriat Scriptures.

I learned that, with the Buddhist Buriats, the
Russian missionaries found work difficult ; but with
the Shamanist Buriats it was more promising. The
missionary was able to tell of 300 Buriats baptised
during 1878, east of the Baikal, and more than 1,000
to the west. All this is on Russian territory.

The late Mr Gilmour, of the London Missionary
Society, and author of Among the Mongols, for some
years made summer tours from Peking among the
tribes in the south-east, where he was followed by
a Mr Parker, a missionary of the same Society ; and
at Kuldja I met Belgian missionaries, who had come
from the stations whence work was being carried on
among the Ortus Mongols. In the Ortus the Roman
missionaries devote themselves almost entirely to the
tribes of the Alachains. The staff included, M. de
Deken informed me (in 1892), a bishop, who is Vicar

164 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Apostolic, with fifteen Belgian missionaries and two
Chinese priests. With these exceptions, however,
I know of no other missionaries of any denomination
working in Mongolia proper.

The nomadic habits of the people present great
obstacles to the establishment of schools or getting
the people together, as I learned from the aged Mr
Stallybrass, who was one of the pioneers to the Trans-
Baikal in 1817.

The Belgian missionaries have met with the same
difficulty, M. de Deken informs me,%among the Ortus
nomads, for whom they have tried, and partially suc-
ceeded, in forming exclusively Christian centres, and
even entire towns, such as the walled town of Porro-
balgason, which contains 160 Mongol families.

Accordingly, one would suppose that a strong mission
might be profitably established at Urga, whence its
members could itinerate, and smaller missions of a
similar character at Uliassutai and Kobdo, in all of
which it would be most desirable that physic should
go hand in hand with divinity.

Passing farther west, we come now to Sungaria,
which one writes with hesitation because the name is
not strictly scientific. It lingers only as a geographical
expression, indicating the region that was once the
centre of the kingdom of the Sungarians, or Mongol
" tribes of the left wing " — that is, the Kalmuks.
Towards the north-east it is divided from the pro-
vince of Kobdo by the Great Altai Mountains, but
directly east it possesses no natural boundaries to
divide it from the Khalkhas of Mongolia. To the
north-west lie the Russian provinces of Semipolatinsk
and Semirechia, and on the south lies the easternmost
extension of the Tian Shan. The region calls for

MANCHURIA, MONGOLIA, SUNG ARIA. 165

separate mention by reason of the configuration of its
surface and its history ; and in reference to the former,
Riclus very well puts it that " Sungaria is the broad
gateway leading from the Chinese to the Western
World.,, Here it is that the three depressions in the
mountains which environ Western Mongolia occur,
and by means of which access is gained from the
Turkistan plains to the Mongolian tableland.

The northern opening lies through the valley of the
Black Irtish, and presents an easy route over the
Steppe at an elevation of scarcely 2,500 feet above
the sea. Through the southern opening passes a
road from Lepsinsk to Urumtsi ; whilst between these
two openings is a third passage, narrower, but more
frequented. It goes by the town of Chuguchak.

Through these depressions the devastating hosts of
the Mongols advanced westwards, and should a railroad
ever be laid from Moscow to Central China, it will
probably pass from the lowlands of Russia to the
highlands of Mongolia through Sungaria. The im-
perial road of the Chinese coming in this direction
from Kansu, after skirting the north of the easternmost
branch of the Tian Shan, descends to the Hi, through
the Talki Pass, farther south than Chuguchak.

Wells Williams divides Sungaria into the three
districts of the Hi valley in the south, Kara-kur-usu
in the middle, and Tarbagatai in the north. In North-
ern Sungaria there are no towns of any considerable
size. Rdclus mentions the two military stations Bulun
Tokoi and Tulta, but the busiest mart in this part of
the country is Chuguchak, or Tarbagatai.

Here was stationed a Russian Consul in 1882.
There are also two Chinese residents, with high
powers, to oversee the trade across the frontier; but

i66

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

their duties are of inferior importance to those of the
officials at Urga, where is maintained, it is said, a
force of 2,500 Manchu and Chinese troops.

Chuguchak is one of nine fortified places under the
control of a commandant at Kuldja ; and not far
distant is Durbuljin, where the Chinese have Kalmuk
mercenary troops, some of whom, to judge from a
photograph in my possession, are armed with modern
rifles and bayonets ; whilst in another are seen Chinese
or Manchus, at the same place, at sword exercise and
bearing huge shields, a yard or more in diameter.
Chuguchak is said to contain about 600 houses. Its
trade consists chiefly of domestic animals and cloths.

MANCHU SOLDIERS AT SWORD DRILL

MANCHURIA, MONGOLIA, SUNG ARIA.

167

South of the Tarbagatai district is that of Kara-
kur-usu, remarkable for its system of lakes extending
eastwards, of which the largest are named Sairam,
Ebi, and Ayar. Of towns in this district there are
certain military stations, such as Jinho (or Djin-ho),
Shiho (or Hsihou), Kara-kur-usu, and Manas, peopled
to a large extent by exiles, and situated for the most
part along the imperial high road.

The traveller who would pass this way to North-west
China from the Hi valley, which he can do on wheels,
ascends the Borokhoro range by the zig-zag tracks and
48 bridges of the Talki Pass, to the eastern shore ot
Sairam- Nor, the beauties of which have been described

AT DURBULJIN, NEAR CHUGUCHAK.

1 68 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA,

by Mr Delmar Morgan, as also previously by Mr
Ashton Dilke. Of this Pass I was able to procure
several photographs characteristic of this most pictur-
esque portion of Sungaria, Lake Sairam, for example,
presenting the appearance of a vast crater surrounded
by wooded hills.

After skirting the shores ot the lake at an altitude
of 5,900 feet, the road descends and passes Jinho and
Kara-kur-usu, leaving to the left Shiho with its gold
washings, coal-fields, salt-beds, and naphtha lake, and
continues to Manas, a fertile district in which coloni-
sation is said to be advancing. From Manas the road
bifurcates, one branch continuing north of the Bogdo
Tian Shan range, through the towns of Guchen
(Ku-cheng, or old city) and Barkul, the other con-
tinuing to Urumtsi, situated in a depression of the
range, and then crossing and running south of it.
Both roads unite again at Hami.

Of the Hi valley, or southernmost district of what
we are calling Sungaria, I need write little here, since
I have devoted five chapters to it in my Russian Central
Asia. Something must be said, however, of the in-
habitants who gave their name to the region generally,
and whose history is remarkable.

Early in the eighteenth century the Sungars suddenly
acquired great power, and established themselves over
nearly all the elevated region of what is now Russian
and Chinese Central Asia, but more especially from
Hami to Lake Balkash. They captured even the
sacred city of Lassa, and exacted tribute from Yarkand
and Kashgar, with Tashkend and other places in
Western Turkistan.

Against this people the Chinese sent two armies,
both of which were defeated. Afterwards they sent

MAfrCHURIA, MONGOLIA, SUNGARIA. 169

a third and victorious army, whose leader, determined
to make short work and guard against further trouble,
slew every inhabitant of the country, to the number,
some say, of 600,000, and others, a million ; thus
leaving Sungaria in 1756 an uninhabited waste.

However, about half a century before this a tribe
of the Sungars, more definitely known as the Torgout
Kalmuks, had migrated, owing to tribal quarrels, to
the region of the Volga, where they had lived under
Russian sway, but were now invited by the Emperor
of China to return to the lands of their forefathers.
They did so in 1 771, and were settled in Tarbagatai
and Kobdo, in Karashar, in Chinese Turkistan, and in
the Hi valley.

Also Chinese and Manchu troops, emigrants, and
exiles, as well as the neighbouring nomad tribes and
Turkish agriculturists, were sent and encouraged to
come into the vacant territory. Thus Sungaria became
quite an olla podrida of races, languages, and religions.

The Kalmuks are Lamaists, the Turkish peoples are
Muhammadans, and the Chinese probably Confucians,
or perhaps Buddhists, but not generally, I think, of the
same way of thinking as the Kalmuks. The only
attempt that is now being made, so far as I am aware,
to Christianise the two millions of people, as estimated,
of Sungaria, is by a small Roman mission in Kuldja,
to which I shall presently refer in connection with my
sojourn in that town.

Some attempt was made towards the evangelisation
of the Kalmuks of the Volga, and a portion of the
Scriptures was translated into their language, but I
am not aware that any results from this have extended
to their present camping grounds.

In 1882 I had the privilege of distributing the first

OFTHE
itiuiVirRSlTY

170 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Chinese and Kirghese Scriptures in the Hi valley, and
the Bible Society's agent in Tashkend has since visited
Kuldja ; but as regards permanent work, I would point
out that here again, in Sungaria, are extensive and
unoccupied fields awaiting the missionary.

And now, having attempted to give some idea of
Manchuria, Mongolia, and Sungaria, which may be
regarded as making up the northern portion of China
beyond the Wall, I shall return to my narrative,
which has brought us just within the Chinese frontier.

CHAPTER XIII.

CHINESE OFFICIAL PRELIMINARIES,

Lodgings at Kuldja, 171. — Book-post parcels not opened by Censor,
172. — Packages from Russian Consul; Visit to M. Uspensky, 173. —
Changed appearance of Kuldja under Chinese, 175. — Arrival of
horses, 176. — Paucity of public buildings; Call from Lutheran
postmaster, 177. — Letter from the Tsian-Tsiun ; Excursion to
Suiting, 178. — Appearance of Suiting, 179.— Chinese inn ; Intruding
natives and distracting noises, 181. — Called to breakfast with Kah ;
A score of dishes, 182. — Chinese table etiquette and conversa-
tion, 184. — Return call from Kah ; his Manchu agility ; Audience
with the Tsian-Tsiun, 185. — Presents to Tsian-Tsiun and Kah;
Calls from and upon Mattie, a former acquaintance, 186.— Presents
from Tsian-Tsiun, including a sucking-pig; Disgust of Muham-
madan innkeeper ; Return to Kuldja, 187.

MY coming to Kuldja had not only been expected,
but provided for, and a lodging hired in what
was pronounced the best quarter in the town. Let no
one suppose, however, that this signifies apartments
palatial, but rather an empty room in a native house —
large indeed, and airy, with glazed windows, and walls
recently whitewashed in my honour, but without floor-
ing, and the bare earth only partially covered with
matting of rushes.

Here, then, was a clear case for spreading of felts,
and erecting for the first time my camp chair, table,
and bedstead, on the last of which were extended an

172 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

air-bed and pair ot sheets. Some trunks and boxes
placed here and there served for sideboards and divans
whereon to place provisions and seat guests ; whilst
for meals our host lent a large round table, about six
inches high, around which we might squat or lie on
the ground.

Having on the way called at the Russian post office,
I received handfuls of letters and armfuls of book-
packages ; for it had been ascertained before leaving
England that to carry extra luggage from the English
to the Russian capitals, a distance of 1,600 miles,
would cost Sd. per lb., whilst book packages could be
sent by post to Kuldja, a distance of 4,600 miles,
at the rate of \d. per lb. I had felt, therefore, in
conscience bound to patronise largely the postal
arrangements of his Imperial Majesty.

The only drawback seemed to be, that as the Censor
is supposed to read all foreign books coming to Russia,
with the power of rejecting those he disapproves, I
might find on arrival certain volumes to be wanting.
They could not tell me, strange to say, at the General
Post Office in London, what became of books disallowed
by the Censor ; for though they had in their office any
number of newspapers sent back as u Refusd," they had
not a single instance of a book thus treated.

When calling, therefore, in St Petersburg on General
Besac, the Postmaster-General, for an open letter,
such as I had been provided with on previous
journeys, and with which I was once more kindly
favoured, I asked also whether my printed matter had
safely passed the ordeal, and was informed that books
posted from London to Kuldja, which is beyond the
Russian frontier, would not be opened in passing
through St Petersburg. Those addressed to the

CHINESE OFFICIAL PRELIMINARIES. 173

capital I had already received ; and to this may be
added that now, on my arrival, not one of my two
score of books and book-packages was missing.

Another economy in the cost and trouble of carriage
had been discovered in St Petersburg in the Parcels
Post, established many years before ours in England,
whereby boxes or parcels of books, examined by the
postal authorities before closing, and not exceeding
1 cwt each, could be sent from the capital to Kuldja
for 5<£, and other articles for b\d.> a Russian lb.

Accordingly, I had purchased at the depdt of the
British and Foreign Bible Society such Scriptures as
I needed in Persian, Kalmuk, and some few other
languages, which the Rev. W. Nicholson, their agent,
always so kind and helpful, had just forwarded, together
with certain provisions, medicaments, etc., to Kuldja,
the six cases wherein the foregoing were contained
weighing about 5 cwt.

These were consigned to the care of the Russian
Consul, to whom my arrival quickly became known.
The six cases were soon sent, also the 27 boxes and
parcels which had been delivered on the previous
evening from Jarkend, and the whole stacked in my
room, giving the establishment very much the appear-
ance of a warehouse at one end, and a compound dining,
drawing, dressing, and reading room at the other.

With the baggage came also a message from the
Consul that he had been summoned to meet his
Governor-General at Jarkend, and, having to depart
next day, begged that I would visit him in the
morning.

Consequently, I called betimes to pay my official visit
to M. Victor Romanovitch Uspensky, whom I found
surrounded by his staff, M. Nicholas Bornemann,

174 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Dragoman-Secretary to the Consulate, and several
interpreters. Fortunately for me, M. Bornemann
spoke both French and English.

Having presented the letter from the Foreign
Minister at St Petersburg, and shown my other
Russian credentials, I stated what I wished to do and
where I wanted to go, and intimated that I had a
letter from the Chinese Legation in London to present
to the principal Chinese authority in the Hi valley.

This official, called the Tsian-Tsiun, it was replied,
was living in Suiting, where we had touched on our
way ; but a letter, written in Manchu, should be sent,
stating that I was in Kuldja, and asking for an
audience. Meanwhile everything that was possible to
further my wishes should be done speedily. Nothing
could have been more kind or helpful, and glasses
of refreshing tea were then brought in, over which to
discuss affairs. After this I returned to my lodging to
breathe and look about me.

Since my visit in 1882 Kuldja had been retroceded
to the Chinese, who had transferred the seat of govern-
ment to Suiting ; and, the Russian tckinovniks and
troops having been withdrawn, the consequence was
that the town was too large for its inhabitants. The
former place of encampment for the Russian soldiers
was left desolate, and numbers of houses, which
before were full to overflowing, were now empty and
crumbling to decay.

Of course I went to revisit the Taranchi, or native
Turkish quarter, the flat, earthen roofs of which afford
so uninteresting a prospect when seen from a height,
though the dulness is relieved here and there by trees
and verdure. The Taranchi market looked less
crowded than of old, though one saw numerous

CHINESE OFFICIAL PRELIMINARIES.

175

donkeys and oxen laden with straw and fodder, or
saddled for riding ; sheep exposed for sale ; and their
owners, clad in khalats and sheepskin or tibeteika
headgear, lounging about to talk, or idly lying on the
carpeted housetop to smoke and contemplate the bustle
below.

It is perhaps hardly fair to compare Kuldja under

TARANCHI' MARKET AT KULDJA.

the Russians with Kuldja under the Chinese, since it
is no longer the capital. Certainly the town has un-
mistakably deteriorated. The Russian Governors in
Turkistan appear to take more or less interest in the
education and development of the natives, whereas the
remarks made to me, on the spot, of Chinese man-
darins in general, were to the effect that their one
object is to enrich themselves as speedily as possible,

176 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA,

and, provided this is done, all else may go "to the
dogs." At the same time I ought to add that I saw
examples, and was told, of public testimonials being
presented to certain mandarins whose administration
seemed to have been acceptable to the people.

On the next day, Saturday, arrived our five horses
and new cart, which necessitated the addition to my
staff of a groom, one Amin Agha, who tendered his
services in that capacity, and offered also to act as
postillion in driving a cart to Kashgar. Amin was not
a handsome man, and had lost the greater part of his
nose. Nevertheless, Joseph prophesied that he would
make a good servant, as he had been employed by the
great Vali Akhoun Yuldasheff, and was known to the
Russian Consul's servant. Besides Taranchi he spoke
Persian, which no doubt endeared him to Joseph, and
a little Russian, by means of which I could exchange
with him a word or two. It was said, moreover, that
he knew something of Chinese, having been born in
Kashgar ; and, since Joseph would have the man
under his command, I judged it better to take my
factotum's advice, and give him a trial.

The purchase of my horse, and my lack of technical
knowledge of such matters, have been mentioned ; also
I paid amply at Jarkend for barley and fodder for
the route. Nevertheless, the horses arrived in poor
condition ; of corn, I suspect, they had had little
enough. One of the men, however, was so good as
to advise that the animals should be fed at once, and
it looked very much as if they had been left to pick
up what grass they could by the roadside.

Joseph ordered them to be immediately given as
much fodder as they could eat, which they did
ravenously, but not at great expense, for clover cost

CHINESE OFFICIAL PRELIMINARIES. 177

only a halfpenny a bundle, of which four sufficed a horse
for a day, together with 10 lb. of barley, at a further
outlay of 3^/. To this $\d. must be added 2\d. a day
for each horse for standing room, which amount the
landlord further increased on the arrival of my team
by raising my rent. One of the horses was speedily
condemned as not being strong enough for the journey
I contemplated, and I was advised to sell him ; whilst
a second turned out to be so vicious as to allow no one
to go near him.

The rest, on being brought out for an afternoon
canter, answered well as saddle-horses, and we visited
the town suburbs, and, among other places, the native
cemetery, where most of the tombs were crumbling to
pieces. It was, in fact, very hard to find, in or about
Kuldja, anything of a monumental character worth
looking at. The tombs of the Khans are merely
oblong structures of brick, with a little carving or
moulding on the exterior, the interior being filled
with earth. Even the entrance to the Taranchi
Mosque is only mud-built, and is very poor in com-
parison with similar buildings farther west.

On Saturday M. Bornemann paid me a formal call,
as did also M. Immanuel Romanadt, the director of
the Postal Telegraph Office. The latter was a
Lutheran, and had heard from friends at Tashkend
of my holding a service there. At Kuldja they had
neither Lutheran minister nor Russian priest, and he
asked that on the morrow I would hold service and
administer the Lord's Supper to himself and his wife,
as well as baptise, during my stay, their baby — all
which I did, saying the Communion Service as best I
could in German and French. The baptism was per-
formed a few days later, according to the English rite,

vol. 1. 12

178 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

and the child's name sent to be registered at the
English Church in Moscow.

On Monday two visitors came from the Consulate,
the Manchu secretary in the morning bringing me
some visiting cards, or slips of crimson paper, about
eight inches by three, bearing my name in Chinese —
the equivalent of Lansdell in the language of the
Celestials being, I was told, " Lahn-sse-dur-rhe"

In the evening came a letter from Dzunli Djun Wo
Dzui Kar-chun Yi, President Commissioner of Russo-
Chinese affairs at Suiting, saying that the Tszan-Tstun
would receive me at my convenience. This meant a
little excursion of 50 miles there and back, and a
sojourn of a few days at the Chinese capital.

Taking my own cart and saddle-horses, as well as
provisions, we set out on Thursday for Suiting.
Travelling by arba was new to me, and, though dread-
fully slow, was not so uncomfortable as might have
been anticipated. I was glad, however, to exchange
it occasionally for the saddle.

On leaving Kuldja we passed by the old Russian
telegraph station, adjoining which were other houses
built by Europeans, but now falling to pieces, and
presenting typical instances of the ruin and decay
visible over a large part of the town. Here and there
the Chinese had erected new houses, in their own
fashion, and we passed by one of them in the suburbs.

There were also two or three tea-houses that served
for halting-places, but, for the most part, the journey
was through an uninhabited district ; whilst, as a proof
that travelling by night was a trifle dangerous, there
were stuck up on poles, at various places along the
road, small cages, each containing the head of a
brigand.

CHINESE OFFICIAL PRELIMINARIES. 179

Not long before we reached our destination, there
was visible down in the valley, a few miles distant
from the low hill we were crossing, a large rectangular
area surrounded by a lofty and well-built wall. This,
I was told, was the work of the Chinese, who, mindful
of the slaughter of their fellow-countrymen during the
Dungan rebellion, had taken the precaution of fortify-
ing a position before inhabiting it. I have a suspicion,
however, that the walls indicated the " New Kuldja "
of the maps, which was destroyed about 1867, when
the insurrectionists fell to killing each other.

Arrived at the capital, Suiting was found to be a
much larger and more thoroughly Chinese town than
the present Kuldja. It is surrounded by a high wall,
which I remember they were strengthening in 1882,
and has brick-built gates, a fortress, and many streets,
also some few buildings and shops outside the walls.
Under Russian rule in 1878 it contained 1,260 houses,
with a population of 2,700 males and 1,300 females.

Since that date I should say the population has in-
creased considerably, especially the Chinese portion
and the official class. The bazaars are numerous and
well stocked with merchandise, as were also the markets
with vegetables and fruit ; and there were said to be
plenty of inns, to one of which — a new one, and there-
fore supposed to be preferable — I and my party were
taken.

This was my first experience of a Chinese inn, and
it made the flesh creep. Passing through a wide
doorway, we entered a square courtyard with rooms on
two sides, and occupied in the centre and On a third
side by horses, carts, and drivers. The removal of
such trifles as foul straw and manure was deemed
superfluous, and through this I had to wade towards

180 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

the door of a room, and there wait till the coal in it

THE DISCOMFORTS OF A CHINESE INN AT SUITING — PREPARING A ROOM FOR THE AUTHOR.

was swept into a corner and what looked like a
brewing apparatus removed.

CHINESE OFFICIAL PRELIMINARIES, 181

There was no flooring, not even of bricks, and no
furniture, but at the end of the room was a kang , or
platform of loose boards, over what appeared to be
an ash-pit, though the cinders no doubt represented
the remains of fires for winter heating. Over this
receptacle for rubbish of various kinds I was to sleep
and eat.

The servants and fellow-guests of the inn came, of
course, to look at the foreigner, and if I presumed to
close the door, it simply meant to shut out the light
and send the crowd to the window, through the paper
panes of which they could poke their fingers and so
make spy-holes. One man insisted upon entering,
whereupon one of my party asked him what he
wanted.

" Cannot I come into a room," said he, " in my own
country ? " — a question my attendant did not argue,
but again asked him what he wanted, and so got rid
of the intruder ; but on sitting down to read and write
I was again surrounded.

Added to these little annoyances there was continued
through the night the tinkling of horse and mule bells,
whilst at early dawn began the incessant hammering
of a flour-mill working next to my room. This went
on all day, and what with the stench of manure,
distracting noises, windows unglazed, and inquisitive
visitors, my lodging proved to be the worst I had
ever had.

Yet I was assured, and subsequent experience con-
firmed it, that not only was this inn the best in the
town, but above the average of Chinese inns elsewhere.
It gave me a taste, therefore, of what itinerating
missionaries and travellers in the interior have to
put up with.

1 82 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

My card was speedily sent to the proper office to
announce our arrival, whereupon there came a request
that I would call next morning on Kah-lee-ooin-ee
(or, according to a later version, Kah-i-chang), the
Commissary of Russo-Chinese affairs, with an invita-
tion that I would not eat my breakfast beforehand,
but take it with him. This general invitation was
brought by a messenger overnight, and on the morrow
another messenger came to say it was nine o'clock,
and bidding me to come forthwith.*

I did so in a rough Chinese cart, answering to
our cab, and was met by servants at the outer gate,
through which we passed and crossed a court, to be
received at the door of the apartments by our host.
He appeared to be of Manchu, or Mongol, or perhaps
mongrel origin, but was hearty in manner.

After leading me into an ante-room and placing me
in a position of honour, the ante-repast began with
yellow tea and fruit. Then we adjourned to the next
room for a more serious gastronomic encounter, four
persons being seated at a small table, perhaps a yard
square, with about half a dozen saucers thereon.

These were added to up to the number of 20 save
one, arranged in 5 rows of 3, 4, 5, 4, 3, after which
4 more were brought and placed in order on the top
of the others. Now, as I had been on doctor's diet,
and had not been allowed a decent meal for some
time, and meat only once for nearly a week, I was
of ready appetite, and am bound to say I thoroughly
enjoyed the feast.

Some of the dishes were extremely nice, notably the

* Reminding me of a certain man who made a great supper and
invited many, and sent his servant at supper-time to say to them that
were bidden, "Come." (Luke xiv. 16, 17.)

CHINESE OFFICIAL PRELIMINARIES.

183

little shreds of roast mutton, excellently seasoned, such
as I learned ever after to call for with confidence at
Chinese inns. On the other hand, the chicken was

BREAKFAST WITH THE COMMISSARY! OF RUSSO-CHINESE AFFAIRS AT SUITING.

made uneatable, and the eggs on this occasion I am
bound to say were inexpressibly nasty. The taste
for them as eaten in China had need to be acquired,

184 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

no doubt, for I had been told at Vierny of the
wonderful pains and expense at which Chinese gour-
mands preserve their eggs till they are black and
putrid, and of which they are as proud, when many,
many years old, as an English squire of his crusted
port.

I have, moreover, a vague impression, which for the
moment I cannot verify, that I somewhere tasted these
ancient delicacies, and found them good, but on the
present occasion my note-book condemns them utterly.
The rissoles of pork sausage were tasty, and so were
the French beans, peas, the hearts of cabbage stalk
cut in slices, and the Mandarin oranges preserved
in syrup.

We helped ourselves to these delicacies as we
pleased, but our host every now and then, with his
chopsticks, placed on the plate of one or other of
his three guests a choice morsel, which, mercifully,
it was not a matter of unbending etiquette that one
should eat. It was polite, of course, occasionally to
return the compliment, and help him to tid-bits with
ones knife and fork.

The conversation did not dwell too exclusively on
my journey, for this was regarded as a preliminary
meeting only — to such an extent indeed that when
at the close I offered presents, my host said he could
not accept them at the first visit. He added, however,
that the Tsian-Tsiun was ready to do for me all he
could, and would give me audience to-morrow.

In China it would seem that they like to do their
politeness early, and, to return my visit, Kah came
next day at six in the morning. His cart, or carriage
perhaps I ought to say, was driven through the dirty
yard close to my door, in leaving which I saw him

CHINESE OFFICIAL PRELIMINARIES. 185

perform an athletic feat that fairly surprised me. Kah
was no longer young — fifty and eight he said was the
tale of his years — and he had attained to a rotundity
which, though in China held to be synonymous with
happiness, is hardly conducive to agility.

When, therefore, he had to surmount the three feet
or so between the ground and the floor of his vehicle,
I expected to see a footstool brought, on which he
might gravely step. Instead of that he approached
the vehicle, and without ado sprang from the ground
into his seat, and tucked his legs under with a grace-
fulness that left nothing to be desired. This feat was
equalled by a Manchu afterwards sent with me, who,
standing one day at his horse's shoulder and talking,
turned round and, without touching mane or bridle,
leaped from the ground clean into the saddle.

Shortly after this visit I went to Kah's house.
He took me into the fortress for an audience with
Seh-Tsian-Tsiun — the first word being his name (which
in full was Sse-teng-nge) and the remaining two his
title, which I was told is a high one and equivalent
to Governor.

His civil jurisdiction extended over the Hi valley,
whilst the local military affairs were then directed, if
I mistake not, by Chang- tu- ting, or the General. I
recognised the dwelling as that in which I visited a
former Tsian-Tsiun in 1882 ; but I found the present
officer more genial and intelligent, and not so ignorant
of Western ideas.

He received me with much ceremony and asking
of formal questions, after which I showed my passport
and presented my letter from the Chinese Legation in
London. That letter, he said, invited him to give
me further documents, I next intimated my desire

1 86 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

to travel by the imperial high road to Urumtsi, and
thence westwards and round Chinese Turkistan,
through Aksu, Kashgar, and Yarkand to Khotan.
This, he kindly said, should be arranged, and the
necessary papers got ready in four or five days, by
which time I should have to revisit Suiting, on the
way to the Talki Pass.

I then offered several presents, meaning that he
should take them all, but was told afterwards that
it was customary to display one s offerings in order
that a selection might be made, there being a sort
of tacit understanding that the recipient returns the
value of what he takes. In the present instance,
the Tsian-Tsiun seemed by no means greedy of
gifts. He appeared pleased with a plume for his
horse's martingale, which I had intended for the
Emir of Bokhara ; and I pressed upon him also a
telescope, a pair of coloured spectacles, and some
oleograph pictures.

Some light refreshment followed, and we returned
to the house of Kah, who, after his chief had led the
way, was now ready to receive as presents a field-
glass, a set of oleograph pictures, watch-chain, and
compass, and for his family a flageolet, pocket micro-
scope, and needle-case.

Later in the day came an interpreter, one Mattie, the
secretary or adjutant of the Tsian-Tsiun, bringing his
masters card. He remembered my coming six years
before, still possessed my photograph which he then
received, and now seemed disposed to be helpful.

On the next morning I visited Mattie in his own
house, and learned more of his influence, for whereas
nine of his fellow-assistants after serving five days
were allowed to go home for ten, he was too im-

CHINESE OFFICIAL PRELIMINARIES. 187

portant to be spared by the Tsian-Tstun for a single
day. He had, he said, a cousin, or brother, Foo-Shan,
an interpreter to the Russian Consul at Kashgar, for
whom he would give me a letter ; and he also knew
Jun-Wang, a great personage among the Torgout
Kalmuks at Karashar.

On the same morning the Tsian- Tstun sent Mattie
again, saying that as my stay was to be so short he
could not prepare me a banquet, but sent, nevertheless,
some provision for the way — namely, a sheep and four
live chickens, a couple of ducks, and a sucking-pig roast,
two dishes of pastry, and two sacks of rice and fine
flour, all of which he desired me to accept.

The bringing of these presents by the Tsian- Tstun s
servants, and repeated visits of government officials,
increased my consequence at the inn; but the landlord,
who was a Dungan or Chinese Muhammadan, was
reported as greatly disgusted at the pig being brought
upon his premises. Our Chinese servant, who had
inadvertently put the unclean animal upon a tray, was
afraid I should have to replace it with a new one.

Fortunately, the landlord took a business view ot
the matter, and subsequently evinced a great desire
when I called for my flour and rice to have the honour
of entertaining so great a man again. Meanwhile the
ducks were eaten, the pastry, I fancy, given away, and
poor piggie, since none of my party wished to taste
him, was sold at the nearest Chinese eating-house.
The innkeeper was requested to sell the sheep, and
to keep the flour and rice till called for.

On Monday morning we set out for Kuldja, feeling
that progress had been made; but we were glad to
get back to our Turkish lodging and baggage.

CHAPTER XIV.

PREPARATIONS AT KULDJA.

My impedimenta, 188. — Food, physic, and clothing, 189.— Furniture,
books, and instruments, 190. — Presents; Visit from a blind
native, 192. — Call on Roman missionaries, 193. — Their assistance
sought by Chinese ; 111 effects of child-marriage, 194. — Shelter given
to the girl by missionaries ; Names added to roll of adherents ;
Chinese quarter of Kuldja and magistrate's procession, 195. —
Instruments of punishment, 196. — Intended route changed, 197. —
Interpreter into Chinese unwilling to proceed, 198. — Withdrawal
of interpreter into Turki ; Perplexing, but subsequently proving
well ; Objections to route vid Urumtsi ; Consideration as to moun-
tain roads, 199. — The Muzart Pass, 200. — A caravan leader willing
to attempt it ; How affecting main object of journey ; Where to
find interpreter? 201. — Another excursion to Suiting, 202. — Chinese
temple and theatre, 203. — Change of route sanctioned and
arranged for, 204. — Return to Kuldja; Interpreter sent for to
Kashgar, 205.— My Tatar hostess, 206. — Farewell visit to Suiting
and Chinese officials, 207.

THE number of my packages in Kuldja now
amounted to about 50, and their weight to
nearly two tons. Perhaps the reader might like to
peep at these impedimenta, which for convenience
shall be classified under the heads of Food, Physic,
Clothing, Furniture, Books, Maps and Stationery,
Instruments and Arms, and Presents, the last including
publications for distribution.

Of Food not much was taken from England save
essence of coffee, which I rarely used, compressed tea,

PREPARATIONS AT KULDJA. 189

Liebigs extract, meat lozenges, anchovy paste, marma-
lade (to render palatable indifferent bread-and-butter),
and biscuits. In addition to these were purchased in
Russia condensed coffee and cocoa with milk, com-
pressed vegetables, extract of Russian berries called
klukva, recommended to me by Prjevalsky for drink-
ing in tea, and essence of lemon for the same purpose ;
also effervescing drinks for the teetotal Muhammadans,
a few sweetmeats for children, curry powder and jam
as adjuncts to rice ; and lastly, flour, baking powder,
sugar, butter, and cheese.

Under the head of Physic were included the drugs
said to be needful for stocking a small medical mission
for upwards of a year. These were contained in five
cases, and Messrs Allen and H anbury's invoice alone
numbered 80 items. Another case contained about a
dozen medical appliances, the gift of Messrs New-
berry Brothers, of King Edward Street. To these
must be added 14 dozen spectacles, a set of ophthalmic
instruments, kindly given by the late Dr Grimke,
four or five small cases of surgical instruments, and
a magnetic machine, together with the medicaments
obtained at St Petersburg.

As for Clothing, I had to provide against every
degree of temperature between the Arctic cold of
mountains 20,000 feet high and the heat of the plains
of India — from a fur-lined ulster, that is, to a vest of
gauze — whilst in quality my wardrobe had to range
from a peasants sheepskin jacket for the road, to
court dress for St Petersburg or the Viceroys palace
at Calcutta.

Added to this, it was desirable to have for my com-
panions a small reserve in case of emergency, and as
presents a few articles of English underclothing, such

190 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

as woollen vests, said to be much valued by Chinese
mandarins. The items in my journal under the head
of clothing number 90.

By Furniture is meant various requisites for camp-
life, or dwelling in an unfurnished room. This in-
cluded a tent, bedstead, air-bed and bellows (presented
by Canon Erskine Clarke), bath, metal and india-
rubber pails, a hammock (kindly given by Madame
Rosenbach), waterproof sheet and air-pillows, table,
chair, and toilet necessaries, canteen, frying-pan, fire-
shovel, and spirit cooking apparatus.

To the culinary portion of this outfit the servants
did not take kindly, but preferred a huge copper kettle
and an open saucepan, with tripod, large enough to
boil a sheep. To the foregoing must be added a
lantern, and half a hundredweight of candles and soap.
My personal effects were packed in four bullock trunks,
portmanteau and fitted bag, waterproof linen bag, and
a hold-all. Besides these must be mentioned two
saddles with fittings, and all the horse requisites from
fodder and nosebags down to spare shoes and nails —
the items under the head of furniture being 82.

Books for reading was a serious question in the face
of a contemplated absence of two years amongst
people to whom one could not speak, and in regions
beyond the range of travellers' guide-books. I took,
therefore, the best topographical works available,
whether from Russian, Chinese, or Indian sources, a
few books for the Tibetan and Turki languages, and
some technical treatises on anthropology, medicine,
surveying, and photography.

The only book I allowed myself, not bearing in
some way on my work, was a small Chandos edition
of Shakespeare (which, by-the-bye, I never once found

PREPARATIONS AT KULDJA. 191

time to open), notwithstanding which the number of
my reading books stood at little short of a hundred
volumes, and they weighed, I suppose, nearly twice as
many pounds.

As for Maps, I had a copy made on six sheets of
canvas of a large MS. of Mr Carey's route round
Chinese Turkistan ; also Walker's Turkistan in four
sheets, A.K.'s route in Tibet in three sheets, a large
geological map of Turkistan by Romanovsky and
Mushketoff, another of Khorasan made and pre-
sented by Colonel Stewart, some large-scale maps
of the Trans-Caspian region as well as of the Upper
Oxus and Sungaria, procured in Russia, and others
by Stanford and Stieler of India, China, and the
Inland Missions ; to say nothing of smaller , maps
in periodicals, and for occasional presents. The
entries under this head numbered 39, and of stationery
only two less.

In connection with Stationery I could not get out of
my head the fate of two travellers who preceded me
to Chinese Turkistan — Schlagintweit, who was put to
death, and Shaw, who was kept virtually a prisoner
for many weeks. It seemed probable that I should
in any case be stationary for several months in the
winter, and therefore I provided many manuscript
books, diaries, note-books, and journals, that, whether
in prison or out of it, I might busy myself in writing,
most of this material being forwarded to Kuldja by the
fourpence-a-pound arrangement.

As for Instruments and Arms, they will be alluded to
more fully when speaking of collecting specimens of
fauna, and of photography. Here it may suffice to
indicate the possession of a few surveying and
meteorological instruments, binoculars, and telescopes,

192 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

with some carpenter's tools, bringing up the number of
items to 108.

The list of Presents was of 109 varieties, but these
must be regarded as a form of exchange. It is of
little use to offer a nomad a shilling if he has nowhere
to spend it, and the reading of Mr Carey's wanderings
had shown me that he failed sometimes to get pro-
visions from the nomads for money, whereas broad-
cloth or tea would have effected his purpose.

I was fortunate enough before starting to make the
acquaintance of Mr Carey's brother, who showed me
the list of articles he had sent out for presents. Thus
guided, and on the introduction of my friend Mr
Stapley, of London Wall, to a wholesale house in the
City, I was able to get a considerable store of useful
articles in cutlery, cheap jewellery and watches, optical
instruments, fancy stationery, photographs, flageolets
and musical boxes, and toys.

The publications for distribution shall be mentioned
hereafter, but it may be readily believed that the
unpacking and re-arrangement of the foregoing in
Kuldja gave me plenty of occupation, besides which I
had sundry visits to receive and calls to make. One
ancient inhabitant, a blind native, having heard of the
coming of the English traveller, brought something to
show me which he evidently deemed mysterious and
almost priceless. It was borne by a young man in a
box wrapped in a handkerchief.

On being opened, the box was found to contain a
wooden figure, the remaining space being filled with
rice to prevent breakage. The said wooden figure,
1 1 inches long, was a fair representation of a man with
a flat Mongol face, and this the owner would have us
believe had grown in the ground in its present shape.

PREP A RA TIONS A T KULDJA . 1 93

He would like to be favoured with an explanation by
the learned traveller. The learned traveller suggested
carving, and opened his knife to examine the image.

The old man, hearing this, was horrified, and begged
him to desist. Whether he really wanted explanation,
or expected to be offered thousands of roubles for his
treasure, I am uncertain ; but on the matter being
mentioned to a Chinese servant on the premises, he
said that similar objects were sometimes discovered
in Kansu, and were looked upon as presaging great
misfortune to the persons by whom they were found. I
am afraid the old man thought me lacking in appre-
ciation of his treasure, for which I did not even make
him an offer.

On my previous visit to Kuldja I had found 65
Chinese Roman Catholics, who had been deprived of
their missionary and his priestly functions for 1 7 years.
They were still holding on, however, and asked me
for a service, which I gave. My visit was still remem-
bered, and since then missionaries from the Ortus
country had arrived, to whom I was taken to be
introduced. I found two priests only — M. de Deken,
a Belgian, and M. Steenemann, a Hollander — their
superior being expected to arrive shortly from Europe
with more missionaries as recruits.*

I did not gather that the number of adherents had
much increased, being still less than a hundred ; but
their chapel was so enlarged that I should not have
recognised it. A photograph of the congregation was
given me, with M. de Deken seated in the centre. I

* The staff, M. de Deken informed me in 1892, consisted of a
superior with the authority of a Vicar Apostolic, and four missionaries,
having also a station and permanent residence among the Kalmuks on
the banks of the river Kash.

VOL. I. 13

194 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

dined with the missionaries, and received much kindness
at their hands, in the way of interpretation, and help
in making local purchases. I was, therefore, the more
glad to ask their acceptance of some copies of the
Gospels in Kalmuk for a small mission I understood
they had in the upper part of the Hi valley, as well as
to help the expected recruits in the study of the
language. I added also some maps, fancy biscuits,
and quinine.

They found it very desirable, it seemed, to know a
little of medicine, since they were not infrequently
applied to in cases of Chinese women who had
attempted suicide by an over-dose of opium. In such
cases they invariably administered a dose of strong
coffee, and with success in most cases. Nor were
these the only cases in which their interference was
sometimes sought, since during our stay they were
sheltering one of their female adherents from a man
who claimed her as his wife.

It was an instance of child-marriage. The woman
was the daughter of a most respectable Chinese
Christian, who was acting as secretary at the Russian
Consulate. This man, who remembered my first
coming, and now did some Chinese writing for me,
had betrothed his child to a boy who was then a
professing Christian, but had since lapsed and become
a disreputable character. Her parents did not now
wish to give him their daughter. Unfortunately,
however, in China the law of child-marriage obtains,
and, provided the agreement be duly registered, the
contract holds when the parties come of age.

In the present instance the affianced husband
threatened to come with a rabble, worthless as
himself, and take the girl by force, in anticipation

PREPARA TIONS A T KULDJA . 195

whereof, and with the sanction of another odious law
in China, he had sold his wife to a mandarin. The
missionaries, therefore, had been asked to interfere,
and were giving the girl asylum, so that the mission-
house was in a minor state of siege. It was hoped
the girl might be smuggled away ; and the case
perhaps throws light upon the charge I have heard
brought against Roman missionaries in China gener-
ally, that they interfere in politics. If so, one cannot
but sympathise with their efforts to avert from their
adherents the effects of such legislation.

I cannot, however, extenuate another practice among
Roman missionaries that has come under my notice, who,
when mothers bring to them sick children for medicine,
ask whether the parent would not also like a good
prayer said over the child. Consent, of course, is
given without knowing what is to be done, the child
is baptised, and an additional name entered on the
register, which, even if in keeping with the opus-
operatum view of the sacrament, is hardly consistent
with Christian straightforwardness.

The Roman mission-house is situated on the out-
skirts of the town. The road to it goes through the
Chinese quarter, in which is a Buddhist temple with an
entrance of brick, through an arched gateway carved
at the top and ornamented with dragons. There is also
a Chinese bazaar, with abundance of running water
near and numbers of ducks, with which the Chinese
are delighted. In this quarter I made acquaintance
with several features of Chinese life and manners that
were new to me.

On my second day in the town there passed through
the streets the local magistrate, preceded by his retinue,
the foremost of whom carried gongs or musical instru-

i96 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

ments. Next came lictors with whips to clear the way,
and executioners carrying their instruments of punish-
ment. Then came several secretaries and attendants,
one of them carrying a sort of umbrella which had
been presented as a mark of appreciation by the people;
and, lastly, the great man himself, in a little bird-gage
sort of cart, the procession being closed by one or two
mounted guards. The instruments of punishment
attracted my attention, and set me longing for additions
to my prison curiosities.

Upon communicating my wishes to M. Bornemann,
and requesting that he would ask for a set on my
behalf, he replied, " Oh, no, no ; that is not the way
here ! If you merely ask, you may wait long enough :
the better way is to command." Whichever he did,
in a day or two there were ready for me three Chinese
batons or staves and a whip, facsimiles of those in local
use. The largest of the staves was about the length
of a broom-handle, but rather thicker, and spatulated
at one end.

It is used for administering from 60 to 100 blows
on the thighs of soldiers and the worst of criminals.
The smallest instrument is perhaps half the length of
the foregoing, and lighter, and is used for spatting
men on the hands, or beating women (on the abdomen
when not pregnant) with from 10 to 50 blows. The
weight of these staves was prescribed, it was said, with
great nicety by Chinese law ; and, in addition to
beating with these large or small rods, three other
kinds of punishment were mentioned — namely, tem-
poraryand permanent exile, and execution. Temporary
exile was said to last from one to four-and-a-half years,
whilst permanent exile implied moving the offender
from 2,000 to 4,000 It or more from home.

PREP A RA TIONS A T KULDJA . 197

In this matter of the staves and similar local matters
M. Bornemann was very serviceable ; and not many
days after our return from Suiting I had to ask his
assistance again with the Chinese authorities, in pro-
spect of a change of route, brought about as follows.

I have intimated that from the outset Mr Hudson
Taylor was kind enough to offer that one of the China
Inland Mission agents should accompany me as inter-
preter, and the first meeting-place thought of was
Hami. When, however, a letter was given me from
the Chinese Legation in London to the Governor-
General at Urumtsi, it seemed better for purposes of
translation to make that place the point of meeting,
which was accordingly done, and plans laid for me to
arrive there by June 1st.

I have explained how delay of baggage made me
a month behind, in consequence of which my inter-
preter, not finding me at Urumtsi, had come forward
to Kuldja, arriving a day or two before me. Circum-
stances, however, with him had altered, so that within
a few hours of our meeting he told me that he had
given up all hope of getting into Tibet, and intimated
that he would like to return to Kansu, instead of
going to Kashgar.

He said that a little war had broken out between
British India and the Tibetans, and that to attempt
to enter the country now was to fly in the face of
Providence ; which seemed, I confess, not altogether
unreasonable. Next, as he came along, he had been
inquiring as to the number and character of the Chinese
inhabitants of Kashgar and the neighbouring towns ;
had learned that they were comparatively few, and
chiefly soldiers, who were not of a reading class, and
therefore not likely to profit much by our distribution

198 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

of the Scriptures. He had accordingly made up his
mind at Urumtsi, before meeting me, that it was
inexpedient for him to go, as he thought my Turki
interpreter would suffice.

This information concerning the military character
of the Chinese population afterwards proved correct ;
but, as a third reason, he went on to state that, since
he originally expressed his willingness to go, his family
. circumstances had changed, and that he did not wish
to be absent another winter. If, therefore, after this,
I still determined to go to Kashgar, he would accom-
pany me to Urumtsi, and thence continue his way
homewards, leaving me to turn westwards.

This I determined at first to do, and had asked
letters of the authorities at Suiting ; but before they
arrived a fresh obstacle had arisen. I have said in
my introduction that I had a correspondent who, I
hoped, might accompany me as Turki interpreter,
giving the mission the benefit of his medical skill.
He was at that time in Tashkend without employment,
being unqualified to practise for lack of a Russian
diploma ; and in answer to my letter proposing terms,
etc., he promptly telegraphed " Yes."

But between this and the date of our meeting the
circumstances of both of us had altered. He had
migrated to Kuldja, and was established in what he
considered a good practice ; whilst I , after an interview
with Prjevalsky in St Petersburg, and a letter from
Mr Carey, to which I shall allude presently, foresaw
that I should not need to winter in Chinese Turkistan,
and that my journey round the valley must be too.
rapid to allow of working a medical mission. When,
therefore, after what passed between me and my
Chinese interpreter, to which I need not refer in detail,

PREPARATIONS AT KULDJA. 199

my expected Turki interpreter asked to be released
from his engagement, I consented.

This step subsequently proved a right one, and not
to be regretted ; but there is no hiding the fact that for
the moment I was in a corner, and that an anxious one.
Apparently circumstances were against me ; in reality
they were in my favour. I had now to consider very
carefully and prayerfully what was to be done. To go
back could not be thought of. By what route, then,
forward ?

The possibilities of proceeding by one of the moun-
tain roads had already crossed my mind soon after
reaching Kuldja, first on hearing that the high road
was infested by robbers — a not very serious hindrance,
since the authorities had promised me an escort.
Worse, however, was the rumour that, owing to the
lateness of the season, the melting snows on the moun-
tains had swollen the rivers and rendered some of
them impassable, so that we might be detained for
days, and even weeks ; and this was a very serious con-
sideration for one already a month behind, who fore-
saw that he must hurry round Kashgaria if he was to
escape over the mountains before the passes were
blocked. The resignation, however, of my Turki inter-
preter put a quietus on the route via Urumtsi, for to
try and make my way during a three months' journey
thence to Kashgar without an efficient interpreter
either into Chinese or Turki was out of the question.

The remaining routes from Kuldja to Chinese
Turkistan were three : first, that by which Prjevalsky
proceeded, up the Hi valley and over the mountains to
Karashar. Another way was to return to Jarkend and
proceed to Issik-Kul, and thence over the Bedal Pass
to Ush-Turfan ; or the more frequented path farther

200 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

west by Narin to Kashgar. But this meant leaving
un visited nearly all the towns of Northern Kashgaria.
The third and shortest route was up the Tekes valley,
and over the Muzart, or Ice Pass, to Aksu, and of this
I knew only the statement of Kostenko that no
European had ever gone its entire length ; and that,
according to native statements and a Chinese geo-
grapher of the last century, the Pass was depicted as
something frightful.

No Asiatic of note, that I am aware of, had crossed
it since Hiuen Tsiang, the Buddhist monk of the
seventh century, who described the mountains as steep,
dangerous, and reaching to heaven, with snows piled
up since the creation ; where the eyes were blinded
with glare, and even fur garments penetrated by icy
coldness, the pot being cooked as well as the sleep-
ing mat spread on the very ice itself, and by reason
thereof 12 or 1 4 of his company, besides cattle, were
starved and frozen to death.

Hence it seemed to me doubtful whether, supposing
I decided on the Ice Pass, I should find any one to
accompany me ; but when, at a christening feast in
the house of M. Romanadt, M. Uspensky told me he
thought he knew a man who would go, I replied, half
defiantly, that I should like to see him.

Accordingly, on the same day, one of the Consul's
interpreters brought to me a certain Osman Bai Yusup
Ali, or the last two words Russianised into Yusupayeff,
a native of Marghilan, in Khokand, a fine, handsome
man of perhaps 40, who, during the rebellion under
Yakub Khan, had been commander of 100 men.

He, in answer to my question whether he had
crossed the Muzart, said he had done so more than
20 times. Upon my speaking of the difficulties of the

PREPARATIONS AT KULDJA. 201

ice, he replied that the only thing he feared just then
was the swollen rivers during June, July, and August,
but he was willing to make the attempt.

It was, of course, an important consideration with
me, how this change of plan would affect the main
object of my mission, and careful consideration seemed
to show that it need do so less than at first sight might
appear. The American Bible Society had sent from
Shanghai, to my intended Chinese interpreter, three
boxes of Scriptures for me, or, in case we failed to meet,
to be distributed by himself. One box was left at his
house for lack of room in his cart, another was left at
Urumtsi to be called for on the return journey, and
the third brought forward and partially distributed
during my first visit to Suiting.

Of the Scriptures brought from the East, about
nineteen-twentieths were Chinese, and therefore suit-
able for Urumtsi and the towns on the northern road
where the Chinese populations predominate, whilst of
Scriptures brought by me, four-fifths were in Western
languages, and therefore needed for the Turkish in-
habitants of Chinese Turkistan.

Accordingly, I suggested to the interpreter that if in
returning he would distribute his books along the
towns north of the Tian Shan, and perhaps make
a cUtour southwards to Karashar to distribute some
among the Kalmuks (for which purpose I had copies
to spare), whilst I, beginning at Aksu, with my Turkish
and Chinese books, went all round the valley to Khotan,
then we should separately cover almost all the ground
we had thought to go over in company.

But what was I to do for an interpreter ? To find a
man who spoke Turki, or even Chinese and Russian,
might not be so difficult — M. de Deken knew a

202 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Kalmuk who spoke Taranchi, Chinese, and Russian —
but to get, at Kuldja, a Turki or Chinese who spoke
English or even French was a very hard matter.

I would fain have persuaded M. Bornemann to
accompany me to Kashgar, or, say, to Aksu, on the
assumption that he needed a holiday; and he would
gladly have come, but he had buried in the grounds of
the Consulate his first child, and now another was
shortly expected, and he could not leave home. I
knew of a European, last heard of at Kashgar, who
spoke the necessary languages, but how to communicate
with him quickly enough was a puzzle.

In fact, the whole affair taxed my faith and ingenuity
not a little. I should not have dreamed of penetrating
Chinese Turkistan unless, before leaving England, or,
at farthest, European Russia, I had seen my way to
efficient interpreters. But Gideon's army had to be
lessened, and so had my forces to be reduced. I had
a secret confidence that, my interpreters being taken
away, another would be provided, and it presently
appeared that all had been wisely predestined, though
the interval of uncertainty was to me a painful trial of
faith, and for three days made me ill.

Thinking over the matter very carefully on the
morning after seeing Osman Bai, I remembered
three persons to whom I might telegraph — namely,
M. Oshanin of Tashkend and M. Gourdet of Vierny,
both of whom would about this time be free from
their scholastic duties ; and, thirdly, the young soldier
who had interpreted for me at Jarkend. To each
of these I sent a telegram, and once more started
for Suiting, to lay my change of plans before the
authorities.

I was lodged on this occasion at the Russian post-

PR EPA RA TTONS A T KULDJA . 203

house, which had a fine large garden with first-ripe
apricots, and a running stream delightful for bathing.
Some Chinese Roman Catholics of the place called
on us, which involved a return visit to some of
their houses. I saw likewise what seemed to be
the principal religious building of the town, and, on
asking its purpose, was variously answered that it
was a temple and a theatre. Perhaps it was both,
for the heathen Chinese are great believers in the
alliance of Church and Stage, build them close
together, and frequently turn from one to the
other.

Before the p'ai fang, or roofed gateway, were
erected two masts, usually seen before yatnens or
mandarins offices, with something like bird-cages
towards the top — emblems, I believe, of authority —
but within these gates the temple itself was rather
insignificant. The only noteworthy features about
it were the yellow tiling, such as one sees in abun-
dance in Peking, and the carved ridges and eaves of
the roof.

Calling upon Mattie on the evening of our arrival,
I presented him with a watch and chain, which seemed
to stimulate his interest in my affairs, and next morn-
ing he brought the paper now ready for my route vid
Urumtsi. Notice, he said, had been sent all along the
road to have soldiers ready for my escort, and it would
cause some difficulty, he implied, to reverse this, but
he hoped that a change of route might be arranged
for ; and I offered, if necessary, to pay for messengers
to countermand orders.

We heard no more on that day, or the next ; but
the day after we breakfasted again with Kah, Mattie
also being a guest. On this occasion Kah mixed a

204 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA,

dish of macaroni for me, and helped his guests
generally with his fingers. Another instance of
Chinese manners was the calling for a large swan's
quill — his toothpick — after which he rinsed his mouth,
and told me that he gave me such a good reception
because I was so well and worthily recommended.

Whether my change of route excited suspicion I
do not know, but I was closely questioned on the
subject. Kah's astonishment had been a good deal
excited, I perceived, on our present visit, at two men
being able to come from the opposite ends of the earth
and meet at a given time at Kuldja. Moreover, the
Chinese authorities are not very fond of foreigners
prying about in the interior, as Mr Carey had fre-
quently found when wishing to diverge from the
highway in Chinese Turkistan.

I feared, therefore, at first that difficulties might be
raised. The Tsian-Tsiun seemed to know little about
the newly proposed route, and professed to be doubtful
of my safety. But here my good friend Kah came to
the rescue, saying he would be responsible for that,
seeing the nomad Kalmuks were under his jurisdiction
as far as the glacier, up to which point should be
provided for me at seven stations a tent, brick tea,
and mutton daily ; whilst, beyond, he would despatch
one Tch'ai Kuan, a controller, to ask the authorities
there to send men to meet me, and he added that
I should perhaps meet him coming back.

In addition to this kindness, he volunteered a favour
of which I thought not lightly, to send a letter to
Kashgar for me to the Russian Consul to aid in
getting an interpreter, saying that I was a stranger,
and must be helped as far as possible. There was,
in fact, but one drawback to all these kindnesses,

PREP A RA TIONS A T KULDJA . 205

and that only one of delay. I was informed that,
when in about five days my papers were ready, I
must again come to Suiting formally to thank the
Tsian-Tstun, and to be escorted out of the town
with drums beating and banners flying.

We therefore returned to Kuldja, where, in answer
to my telegrams, I found that my interpreter at Jarkend
was willing to go, and suggested my asking permission
of Governor-General Kolpakovsky. When at Jarkend
this young soldier had told me he was exiled thither
"pour une petite faute"\ but when at Kuldja I learnt
that this petite faute was Nihilism, it seemed so ex-
tremely improbable that he would be allowed over
the frontier, whence he might invite the authorities
to catch him again if they knew how, that I thought
it useless to trouble General Kolpakovsky in the
matter, but wrote at once a full letter to M. Petrovsky
at Kashgar, asking him to send the man I wanted, or
if not him, then if possible another, to meet me at
Aksu, or, better still, on the southern side of the
Muzart Pass.

Final arrangements were now taken in hand.
Wheel traffic on the Muzart route was out of the
question, and my native cart was therefore sold,
with the vicious horse — both at a loss, of course — to
Abu Kadair, the Russian Aksakal, whose house, as
that of a rich native, I visited outside the town.
There we saw two birkuts> or eagles, trained for
hunting, one of which had cost him ,£10. My
tarantass was handed over to the postal authorities,
who, in deference to my letter from the Postmaster-
General, undertook to forward the vehicle free of
cost to Samarkand, putting the post-bags inside and
using it as a mail-cart.

CHAPTER XV.

FROM KULDJA TO THE PASS OF CHAPCHAL.

Caravan travel by horses ; M. Bornemann and his linguistic abili-
ties, 208. — Caravan leader and negotiations ; Text of contract, 210. —
Departure from Kuldja, 212. — Swollen condition of river; Escort
of four, 213. — Jing's pretensions ; Whipping the ferryman, 214. —
The Hi, and how crossed ; Bivouac, and departure next morn-
ing, 215. — Personnel of caravan, 216. — A Sibo village; Solon
colonists, 217. — Reception at Kalmuk encampment, 218. — Shooting
grouse, and ride to Damarchi; Taranchi inhabitants, 219. — Hospi-
tality at Damarchi ; Ride along the Uzun-Tau Mountains, 220. —
Arrival at gorge of Chapchal, 221.

CARAVAN travelling by horses was new to me,
and in making arrangements I was obliged to
throw myself once more on the kindness of M. Borne-
mann, to whose house Osman Bai, my caravan baski,
or leader, was summoned. Osman spoke Turki,
Persian, and, it was said, a little Chinese.

How many languages more M. Bornemann spoke I
have never discovered ; but, when paying him a visit
one morning, he called my attention, by way of illus-
trating the polyglot character of the place, to the fact
that the seven persons there chanced to be in his room
at that moment each represented a different nationality
and spoke in a different language — namely, English,
Belgian, Russian, Chinese, Manchu, Nogai Tatar, and

FROM KULDJA TO THE PASS OF CHAPCHAL. 209

Kalmuk — all residents in Kuldja, I suppose, except
myself and the Kalmuk, who was a Torgout Khan,
come in from a remote part of the district. He was
well dressed, but not so superbly arrayed as another
Kalmuk Khan whose photograph I possess, and named
Van, in Baratola, north of Sairam-Nor. I fancy M.

VAN, A KALMUK KHAN, WITH HIS SUITE, AT BARATOLA.

Bornemann could converse with them all ; and, in fact,
he seemed to be a thoroughly capable man, working as
hard as if the welfare of the whole Consular establish-
ment depended upon him.

He helped me to question Osman Bai, according to
whom it seemed that the journey from Kuldja to Aksu
was a matter of 1 2 days, travelling light ; but with

vol. 1. 14

2io CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

baggage it was about 18 days. If each horse carried
only 2 cwt, it might be done in 15 days; but with the
maximum of 2 \ cwt each, then 20 days would be re-
quired. His first price was 20s. for each horse. He
would be responsible for keeping the baggage dry from
rain, but not from being wetted in crossing rivers, nor
for loss if washed away.

Upon being asked whether, if I wished it, he would
continue the journey to Kashgar, he assented, but
desired to put in a clause to the effect that he should
not be required personally to enter the town of Aksu.
This aroused suspicion, and M. Bornemann, after a
good deal of cross-questioning, elicited that Osman
owed many debts, and feared to show himself in the
town, lest his horses should be seized for payment.

In such an event what would become of my baggage ?
M. Bornemann, however, anticipated no danger on that
score, and said that for such men to be in debt was
quite usual ; and, having discovered that one of Osman's
principal creditors was the Russian Aksakal at Aksu,
added that a letter should be written to this man to
protect me from annoyance. M. Bornemann then
wrote the letter, which he delivered to me, and drew
up an excellently framed contract, in Russian and
Turki, for the caravan bashi and me to sign.*

* This 7th day of July, 1888, I, the undersigned Sart of Andijan,
Osman Bai Yusupayeff, have made this contract with the English
traveller Doctor Lansdell, as follows : —

1. I, Osman Bai, engage to convey Dr Lansdell, with his servants
and baggage, from Kuldja to Aksu in 1 5 days, exclusive of those days
on which Dr Lansdell may wish not to travel.

2. I engage to provide 15 horses required for the baggage, which
weighs i£ ton.

3. On the journey I engage, at my own cost, to provide what is
necessary for myself, three assistants, and my horses.

4. I further engage, during the journey, to protect from injury, rain,
or other accidents the said baggage.

FROM KULDJA TO THE PASS OF CHAPCHAL. 211

Osman promised to be ready in three days, and
thought that a convoy of two or three Kalmuks from
the Chinese authorities, if not absolutely needful, was,
at any rate, desirable, for the sake of prestige. He
also readily agreed to my resting on Sundays, or, in
fact, when I liked, and said there was so much pasture
on the way that it would be unnecessary to take corn
for the horses.

Joseph, however, did not approve of my animals
being thus treated, and purchased 3J cwt of barley,
and for himself and fellow-servant 200 loaves or cakes
of native bread ; also for me ten chickens at $\d. each,
and a quantity of fresh white bread, from the one man
in the town who could make it — the last of its kind
I was destined to see for many a day. To these were
added some onions, and, thanks to an official in the
Post Office, some potatoes.

At last, on Thursday, July 26th, came the day of
departure. I called to say good-bye at the Post

5. In case of the death of any of my horses, I engage to replace the
same immediately.

6. For custody and transport of the baggage, I have agreed to accept
for each horse, from Kuldja to Aksu, i8.r. — that is, £\$ 10s. in all.

7. If Dr Lansdell should be satisfied with me during this journey, I
will engage to convey him, his servants and baggage, from Aksu to
Kashgar, in 16 days, for payment at the rate of four Hang silver for each
horse.

8. Dr Lansdell is bound to give me his final decision not later than a
day and a half s journey on this side of Aksu.

9. If I should undertake to convey Dr Lansdell from Aksu to Kash-
gar, this agreement is to be binding for that journey also.

10. On signing this agreement I have received 75 roubles ; 25 roubles
more are to be paid to me on arriving within a day and a half s journey
from Aksu, and the remaining 35 roubles on arriving there.

The Andijan Sart Osman Bai Yusupayeff being unable to write, I,
Diamatin Tadjitovitch, have signed for him at his personal request.

This 8th July, 1888, the Imperial Russian Consulate certifies the
above, etc. — {Signed and sealed) V. Uspensky,

212 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Office and the Consulate, and also bade farewell to
my intended Chinese interpreter, who was on the
point of starting for Kansu, and to my other intended
interpreter, whom the European inhabitants were well
pleased should remain behind.

Indeed, they had looked upon me all along as some-
what of a sheepstealer for wishing to take away the
only medical man they had within 80 miles, and their
appreciation of the doctor was shared by his Chinese
and Turkish patients. My landlord was amiable in
settling up, not exacting in his charges, and in return
for my European presents gave me a Chinese body-
girdle or purse, together with his dog " Kara Beg," or
" Black Prince," which had become attached to us, and
might, I thought, be useful to sleep in my tent.

The landlord's son evinced kindly feelings on my
departure, and mounted his horse to make one of a
cavalcade to conduct me out of the town, as did also
several of the native inhabitants, including, I think,
some of the interpreters at the Consulate. The caval-
cade was joined also by M. Steenemann and M. de
Deken, the latter mounted on a war-horse which
formerly belonged to General Kaufmann, and could
still, for not too long a spurt, go splendidly.

M. de Deken would fain have made a holiday of
it, he said, and accompanied me as far as the glacier,
but in the absence of his ecclesiastical superior did not
like to leave M. Steenemann alone.*

It was about noon when I " placed my foot in the
stirrup," as Tamerlane used to say, and went forth to

* M. de Deken has since made a more famous journey through
Karashar, and past Lob-Nor, into Tibet towards Lassa, and thence
through Western China to Tongking, in company with M. Bonvalot
and Prince Henry of Orleans.

FROM KULDJA 70 THE PASS OF CHAPCHAL. 213

encounter the difficulties of an unpremeditated route
into Chinese Turkistan. Osman Bai's horses were
at grass on the other side of the river, to which
the baggage was to be taken in carts, whilst our
cavalcade took a roundabout way of some two hours.

I cannot speak, as we made our way across the
grassy valley, of gilded domes flashing in the sunlight,
or of cathedral spires or minarets growing dim in the
rear, unless it be the minaret of the Dungan Mosque,
which, Muhammadan though it be, is built in purely
Chinese style, and for a photograph is the finest build-
ing in the town.

The waters of the river being swollen by the melting
snow of the neighbouring mountains, the usual place
of crossing was not available, nor, when we arrived,
was the ferry-boat visible. We had, therefore, to
scramble down a bank, perhaps 40 feet high, and
patiently wait in the shade.

I may now introduce to the reader my escort of
four. Two of them, Koo-Kah (Chief) and Tcho-gah,
were guards, and armed, the former being reputed a
mighty hunter,, and therefore of prospective use in
procuring game. A third, Tor-jee, was a tall, stout,
good-natured, broad-faced, ethnological nondescript,
at home in Chinese, Taranchi, Solon, Sibo, and
Kirghese ; whilst the fourth, though the smallest in
stature, was, in his own opinion certainly, the greatest
of all. This Jing-jee-tai spoke Manchu, Chinese,
Kalmuk, Sibo, Solon, Taranchi, and Kirghese — in fact,
" a man of seven tongues. "

The first two were servants of Kah, the last two
hailed from the Tsian-Tsiun, Jing being on his per-
sonal staff, and of such importance, he would have me
to understand, that he rarely left his master's presence.

2i4 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

For ordinary travellers, he said, two or three Kalmuks
were told off, and there was an end of it ; but in the
present instance the Tsian-Tsiun had said that this
English traveller was a very great man, and that Jing
accordingly should accompany him !

In keeping with his pretensions Jing soon began
to show his authority, and after we had been waiting
about three hours, I heard a great shouting from the
top of the cliff above. Presently the ferry-boat arrived,
out of which they dragged the ferryman near to where
I was sitting, Jing the while vociferating loudly and
making a great to-do. Next the boatman was ordered
to lie down and be beaten, which the lubberly fellow
immediately did. One man sat on his head and
another on his feet. Then Jing told off one of his
men as lictor, and to kindle his enthusiasm administered
one or two cuts across his back, after which the
delinquent boatman received the allotted number of
stripes.

All this was " Greek" to me, until it appeared that
the boatman had not come so quickly as he ought when
called by Jing. But he was not killed, within a great
many inches, for the lash of the whip fell well beyond
the culprits back on to the ground. He seemed,
moreover, on getting up to be little hurt, and my
impression is that the whole thing was got up by Jing
as a demonstration of his zeal on my behalf. The
ferryman at all events seemed to have regained his
equanimity when I gave him a present on reaching
the other side of the river.

The width of the Hi at Kuldja is variously stated at
500 and 700 feet, the latter being the width of the
Thames at low-water at London Bridge. But the
breadth evidently varies greatly according to the season,

FROM KULDJA TO THE PASS OF CHAPCHAL. 215

and crossing the stream now was a very different
matter from doing so in September 1882; so that I
doubt whether London Bridge, if placed at our dis-
posal, would have taken us more than halfway over.
Kostenko gives the depth of the river at Kuldja from
3 to 30 feet, and its velocity from 2 to 4 miles per hour.

All these conditions were now, I suppose, at their
highest, the summer heat having set in, and we pre-
pared for crossing as for a voyage. The baggage and
the saddle-horses were brought on board, whilst the
sumpters swam across attached to the boat. There was,
first of all, a certain amount of towing up-stream, the
tow-ropes being fastened to the stumps of the horses'
tails, which the men of the place did not seem to
think cruel. Then we rowed into mid-stream, and
were carried by the torrent a long way down-stream to
the opposite bank.

What with waiting for the ferry and embarking and
disembarking baggage and horses, the day was now
far spent, and Osman Bai proposed that we should
bivouac in the grassy meadows alongside the river, he
always having an eye, as I afterwards found, to food
for the horses.

The escort declared themselves bound to go forward
a few miles distant to their appointed station, though
they agreed, if I wished to go no farther, to come
again early in the morning. I elected, therefore, to
stick to the baggage and spend the first night on the
bank of the Hi within sound of its waters, a small tent
being improvised just large enough to shelter me ; the
rest slept in the open.

Before sunrise next morning — that is, soon after
three o'clock — the men were astir, and so was I at
4.15, to observe the temperature in my tent to be 700.

216 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

By seven o'clock they had finished shoeing 1 7 horses,
after which packing and loading 65 parcels took up
two hours more, and then we made a start.

Seeing a man going off in the opposite direction, I
learned that he had accompanied Osman Bai thus far
to help him gratuitously in shoeing the horses, and
was now returning to Kuldja. This I thought a
neighbourly act, gave him a present, and then, all
outsiders having departed, turned to look at the
personnel of my caravan.

" Your humble servant " was dressed in a drab drill
suit, leathern leggings, and black felt hat. His saddle,
new from Long Acre and made to order, had holsters,
— left, for a small biscuit-box and enamelled bottle for
cold tea ; right, a revolver and space to spare for small
etceteras. Behind my right leg was suspended, in a
case made by Joseph, a double-barrelled gun, and
behind the left leg a saddle-bag with waterproof coat
and a book to read ; whilst behind the saddle was
a valise, in which could be carried telescope, field-
glasses, clinometer, and sundry other instruments and
necessaries.

Next in rank came Joseph, dressed in European
costume, with rifle on shoulder and revolver in belt,
of both of which he was proud. Stowed away on and
about his saddle were numerous travelling requisites
and little comforts for me, which he knew well how to
pack and carry.

Third came Amin Agha as groom. He had signed,
or rather put his mark (something like a cross-bow), to
an agreement to accompany me to Kashgar at the
rate of 30^. a month and his food, which was about
three times the amount he would receive whilst sta-
tionary in Kuldja, without subsistence. Amin was

os rm: \va\ to hie uvlakt pft&q:

THK AL'TKHK'S CARAVAH.

Fag* 216,

FROM KULDJA TO THE PASS OF CHAPCHAL. 217

dressed like a Taranchi, save that he wore a new and
rather Chinese-looking hat. He was mounted on his
own horse, fairly laden with etceteras before and
behind.

We three for a long distance kept in the rear.
Osman Bai, with his brother and two assistants,
Tokhta and Ismail, were dressed as Sarts, and had
two extra horses beyond the 1 5 agreed upon, so that
they could take turns in riding.

Then came the four men of my escort, and, lastly,
an old man, a shoemaker, who, hearing that I was
going to Kashgar, had some days previously offered
his services for the road, which had been declined.
He was now said to be going on his own responsibility,
and, for safety, to have joined my caravan. Now I
had been warned against such hangers-on as not being
always quite honest, and was at first disposed to dismiss
him ; but Joseph pleaded that the man had on the
previous evening made himself useful at little odd jobs,
whereupon it was agreed that " the mullah," as he was
called, should be hewer of wood and drawer of water
to my men, in return for which he would have the
benefit of protection and sundry scraps of the servants
food.

Thus we numbered in all 12 men and 27 horses.

After fording a branch of the Hi sufficiently deep to
bring the luggage on some of the horses to within an
inch of the water, and advancing for perhaps an hour
away from the river, we marched through what I took
to be Khair-Sumun of the Russian maps, eight miles
south of Kuldja, a walled Sibo village, perhaps the
same — at least very like — that J visited in 1882.

The Sibos and Solons were military colonists from
Manchuria and Daouria, the Sibos being settled south

218 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

of the river and the Solons on the north. My friend
Mattie was a Solon.*

This walled village was the station I presume we
were expected to occupy on the previous evening.
There was nothing in it to stop for now, so we merely
passed through it by the straight road from wall to
wall, and arrived about two o'clock, after a five hours'
march, at a valley, the name of which (if it had one)
was given me as Ghaljat.

Here there was a small Kalmuk encampment, with
an empty tent set apart for me. Two chiefs, with
buttons above their hats, came to pay their respects,
and presented a sheep for a feast in my honour. In
return they received two bricks of tea, or about double
value. Subsequently 1 went the round of the tents,
and distributed sweets to the children, a knife, key-
ring, beads, and needles.

Before leaving I also gave away copies of the four
Gospels in Kalmuk. I was not sure any of the people

• M. de Deken informs me that the Chinese Government, always
fearing a revolt of the Manchus combined with the Mongols,, have
exiled from the plains of Manchuria the Manchus, Solons, and Sibos
(Si-po or Hsi-po) to the Hi valley, whilst the Chinese Muhammadans of
Ili, after their last revolt, were transported to Manchuria.

The Manchus in Ili are divided into two classes. South of the river
they inhabit eight small towns, and are called Sibos. The Sibos speak
Manchu and the Sibo dialect, which is not understood by the other
class, the Solons, who live north of the river, and whose language
stands by itself, though possessing certain affinities to Mongol and
Manchu.

All are labourers, but bound to military service at the call of a general
from Peking. Many of their ancestors, when they arrived in Ili, were
Christians. "We know still," says M. de Deken, "two families, of
which the fathers, who had been baptised at Peking, made their
children promise to worship none but the true God."

As for the Manchus of the north — sometimes called Manchu Tatars —
— they are unapproachable, proud, and arrogant, and all claim to belong
to the Imperial family. It is from among them the great mandarins are
chosen.

FROM KULDJA TO THE PASS OF CHAPCHAL. 219

could read, but I hoped the books might find their
way into the hands of some of their lamas. A few
of Mrs Grimkes illuminated text-cards in Kalmuk
received only scanty respect, and were in some cases
speedily crumpled and soiled.

All of the tents looked squalid and miserable, to be
accounted for perhaps by a rude spirit-still which we
got a glimpse of in one habitation. The koumiss bag
standing near suggested the raw material. In another
tent were two sick men, one having a deformed knee,
for which we could do nothing. A little before seven
next morning we departed.

We had scarcely mounted when, within a few yards
of the encampment, I shot a leash of grouse, as fine,
I venture to think, as ever came from a Scotch moor.
Then we marched on in a south-westerly direction,
passing the tomb of a Mussulman saint, and in an hour
came to Kainuk, a village of 90 houses and 600
inhabitants, but formerly, under the Russians, more
populous.

Then, turning in an easterly direction, we were
passing through another village, Damarchi, when our
men asked me to turn aside into the house of the chief
man. This we did, and learned that in the village
were 55 houses and 300 inhabitants, the people, as in
the last village, being Taranchis.

The Taranchis are of Turkish origin, and were
brought by the Chinese to the Hi valley from Kash-
garia. They are Muhammadans, but differ from their
co-religionists farther west in not keeping their women
so secluded. The Taranchi women wear Turkish
khalats opening down the centre of the front like
a dressing-gown, whilst the Dungan women — their
sisters in creed, though not in race— wrap themselves

220 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

in robes of Chinese pattern that fold all across and
button at the side.

Both, if I mistake not, wear low, stiff cylindrical
hats with conical tops ; but these, I think, are for
summer or home wear, whilst others I saw were
perhaps for travelling or winter wear, of huge pro-
portions and made of fur. The women go about
unveiled ; but now and then I noticed, when my
Kuldja hostesses were receiving visits from their
female friends, that some arrived in the yard with
their skirts or khalats thrown over their heads.

The head-man of the village at Damarchi gave us a
kind reception and tea, and when I presented him with
a ring he offered a chowry, or fly-brush, that had
attracted my attention, together with some unripe
apples. We stayed less than an hour, and then con-
tinued our easterly march along the plain till nearly
one o'clock. Damarchi was the last village we entered,
though there was another to the south, not far distant,
called Kan.

Meanwhile we had on our right one of the numerous
ramifications of the Tian Shan, running parallel to and
south of the Hi, and filling the space between that
river and the Tekes. This range bears the general
name of Uzun-Tau, or " Long Mountains." The upper
valleys of the Charin (which flows northward into the
Hi) separate this range from the Trans- Hi Ala-Tau ;
and the western portion of the range is called in turn,
looking eastwards, the Temurlik, Ketmen, Ak-Bur-
Tash, and where it approaches the Lower Tekes, the
Kara- Tag.

Over this portion we were to pass, and although, as
Kostenko says, the Kara-Tag does not reach the snow-
line, still its system is sufficiently high to make progress

FROM KULDJA TO THE PASS OF CHAPCHAL. 221

difficult over those passes which have not been improved
by art. The most noticeable of these are the Ketmen,
Suashu, Khanakai, Chapchal, and Sharbo-Guchi. The
last, at the eastern end of the range, is the easiest, and
practicable even for carts ; but it is circuitous, and we
were to be taken by the most direct road through the
Chapchal gorge and over the pass of that name.

The northern slope of the Uzun-Tau range descends
in three terraces to the Hi, whilst the southern slope
separates into several branches, which lose themselves
in a flat plateau to form the south side of the Tekes
valley.

At one o'clock we turned abruptly at a right angle
into the hills, and in half an hour were wending our
way through a pretty defile by the side of a stream
with maple, willow, sycamore, mulberry, apple, and,
above all, apricot trees, at which last a general rush
was made. Here I picked my first wild apricots,
whilst Joseph prudently brought away a supply for
the morrow's dessert.

The hills on either side were bare, on the left
precipitous, and it took the horsemen three hours of
steady climbing before we reached, at four o'clock
and after nine hours in the saddle, the gorge of
Chapchal. Here was another Kalmuk encampment,
larger than the one we had left in the morning. On
the arrival of the baggage, two hours later, with
Osman Bai, who had not been this way before, we
prepared for spending the next day, Sunday, amidst
novel surroundings.

CHAPTER XVI.

THE TEKES VALLEY,

First Sunday in camp, 222. — Lodging in Kalmuk tent, 223. — Breakfast
minu, 224. — Review of month, 225. — My servant Joseph, 226. — Lack
of efficient interpreter, 227. — Altitude and temperature of Chapchal ;
Visit to Kalmuk tents, 228. — Pass of Chapchal; Defile of Sua-
Chow; Geology of Uzun-Tau, 229. — Altitude of Pass, 230. —
Descent to Booghru ; Cattle of the Kalmuks, and dogs, 231. —
March from Booghru and butterfly hunt, 2^. — Manchu larking on
horseback ; Caution against spirit- drinking, 234. — Arrival at Khana-
kai, 235. — Taking photographs ; Departure to the Tekes ; its rise
and course, 236. — Impracticable ford at Geelan and ditour to Narin-
Kol; Welcome at Russian picket, and help of Cossacks, 238. —
Fording the Tekes, 239. — Another night on river bank ; Awakened
by Lama's prayers ; Departure for Muzart defile, 240.

OUR first Sunday in camp was in many ways
interesting. A messenger had been sent in
advance to announce our coming, and at Chapchal, as
elsewhere, we found a tent erected. The Kalmuk
tents resemble those of the Kirghese, already spoken
of, except that I do not remember at any station
occupying one of which the felt was not torn, and that
not because they gave the visitor of their worst, since
none of them appeared to be housed any better.

Usually my tent was found pitched in a clean
place on grass at some little distance from, though
within hail of, the encampment, and there was some-

THE TEKES VALLEY. 223

times a rug or piece of felt within. Joseph began
furnishing by covering the floor with two large pieces
of felt ; next, four bullock trunks were brought in, and
when placed side by side made a platform just large
enough for the air-bed and pillow. Thus bestowed it
was less easy at night for personal effects to be stolen.
Close to my head, and sometimes partly under it, was
placed my fitted bag containing papers and valuables,
and near at hand the fire-arms.

When making a stay (but not for a single night) it
was more comfortable to open my bedstead, a capital
one for lightness, and adaptable as a lounge by day.
Mr St George Littledale, whose experience of tent
life is greater than mine, feared that I should find this
camp bedstead too fragile for rough wear or uneven
ground ; and perhaps he was right, but I found it useful
when occupying a room, and the same remark holds
good, to a certain extent, of a folding chair and table.

They were of " Paragon " make, the legs doubling
up after the fashion of a camp stool, and the table-top
rolling up like a sheet of thick cardboard. Though
frail, with care they travelled with me safely for
thousands of miles, but were not in very frequent use.
The saddles were also usually brought into the tent,
and that most necessary article of commissariat, the
lunch-basket.

I gave so good a report to Messrs Langton & Son
of the behaviour of their lunch-basket which accom-
panied me, almost uninjured, through Siberia and
round the world, that on the present occasion, and in
sympathy with my expedition, they fitted up and
presented me with a new basket for three persons,
valued for the Custom-house at ^5.

This proved a great comfort, and could the reader

224 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

have peeped in at the door of our tent in the Chapchal
Gorge at breakfast-time, he would have seen the little
table covered with a white damask cloth with red
edges, enamelled plates and dishes filled with white
bread, butter, eggs, the remains of last night's mutton,
grouse, Peak & Frean's biscuits, "apples, and wild
apricots ; whilst in the lunch-basket on the ground
were condiments of various sorts, jam and marmalade,
— a breakfast, in fact, than which many a Londoner had
not a better. Truth compels me to add, however, that
this luxurious level was not maintained, and things
were very different before the end of the journey.

Some have asked me how we managed for bread.
So far back as Vierny it had been said that we should
be unable, over the frontier, to procure either white
bread or flour, European candles, sugar or cheese, to
say nothing of butter fit to eat. It seemed desirable,
therefore, to think betimes what should be done for
these things during a period of several months, should
those prognostications prove true. Orders were
accordingly given for the purchase of 120 lbs.
(Russian) of flour for gs. gd. ; 52 lbs. sugar for 26^. ;
40 lbs. of candles for 24^. ; and 100 lbs. of bread and
rusks for 22s. 6d.

Into the bread my Siberian experience suggested
the putting a small quantity of butter, and making the
loaves about the size of halfpenny buns.* Though
the loaves became hard as bricks, yet when six
months old, and after enduring all the degrees of
temperature between the plains of Russia and of India,
they were still, if not delicious, at least eatable.

* These were packed in two tea-chests covered with cowhide, that had
served for bringing caravan tea across Mongolia, and now made strong,
light, and cheap cases for carriage by pack animals.

THE TEKES VALLEY. 22^

But this was not my real reserve, for Joseph
fortunately could make bread. Putting a spoonful of
carbonate of soda into a cup of water and stirring it,
he added two spoonfuls of kali-bitartaric. With this
home-made baking-powder he worked up the flour
and put it quickly into the oven, the said oven being
a frying-pan with an iron cover. The product was a
species of scone, quite eatable for a couple of days,
though not so nice when dry.

As for butter, it was to be had in Vierny both cheap
and good — 31 lbs. for 19^. 6d. — and we thought to
preserve it in tin boxes made and soldered down by
the local whitesmith. But here my 'prentice hand did
not succeed, for the soldering seemed to impart an ill
savour to the butter, so that it could be used only for
cooking. But Joseph again came to the rescue, and
by shaking up cream, which he could usually procure,
always managed to keep my table supplied.

Hence, on rising from breakfast in Chapchal Gorge,
I felt on improved terms with mankind in general, and
my present surroundings in particular. I was able
calmly to review the anxieties and worries of the past
month, and was thankful to feel that they were in the
rear.

I have said that they were all wisely predestined.
What I meant was this. At an early stage of my
preparations in London I happened to be calling on
Colonel Stewart, who, hearing of my possible departure
for Central Asia, said that he could recommend me
a servant, a Persian from the Strangers' Home for
Asiatics in East London, where the Colonel was
charitably keeping him. I had thought, however, for
economy's sake, I could manage without a servant as
far as Kuldja ; and to take a man 5,000 miles before

vol. 1. 15

OF -HE A

UNIVERSITY

OF "

vC4i .---... ll

2 26 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

his services were absolutely needed seemed doubtful
policy, so that I did not jump at the proposal.

A short time afterwards, on my way to hear Mr
Carey's paper at the Royal Geographical Society, as I
left the train at Charing Cross, Colonel Stewart was on
the platform.

" Have you thought any more of that servant?" he
asked, whereupon I mentioned the drawback of taking
him so far before he was wanted.

"Very well," replied the Colonel, "I am anxious to
get him back to Persia, and am willing to pay his
passage to Constantinople, if you will take him."

"Send him down, then, to Blackheath," I replied,
"and let me see him."

Joseph shortly appeared on a dark muddy day in
December, and I suppose his swarthy skin rather
alarmed the Rhoda of my establishment, for it was
afterwards reported that she murmured to her mistress,
" I hope master isn't going to take that man along
with him."

But Joseph had some good antecedents On the
Afghan Frontier Commission he had served Sir West
Ridgeway, whose testimony in brief was, " Not brilliant,
but trustworthy." The Chaplain at the Home gave
him a good character ; and so in due time Joseph and
my baggage were shipped to Batoum, at a reduced
fare and free freight, thanks to the good offices of my
friend Mr Pembroke, of the firm of Galbraith, Pem-
broke, & Co.

When I reached Batoum, the first person to meet
me was Joseph. He had been receiving pay since the
beginning of the year, and now expressed concern that
he had thus far been able to give me so little in return.
"But now," said he, "you shall see how well I will

THE TEKES VALLEY. 227

serve you " — a promise which, Oriental though he was,
he nobly redeemed.

His capabilities developed and his value increased
in proportion as we got away from civilisation. In the
hotels at Tiflis and Baku he was not required ; but, the
Caspian crossed, he began to be handy in Bokhara,
still more so in Tashkend, and when the baggage was
reached, and horses added to the expedition, he adapted
himself to the situation admirably.

Mr St George Littledale, whom Joseph afterwards
accompanied across the Pamirs, wrote in his testimonial,
" He can mend anything, from a pocket-handkerchief
to a piece of saddlery." True to this, on opening my
saddlery bag, it was found that the packers in Long
Acre had omitted the crupper, whereupon Joseph
either made a new one, or adapted one locally bought,
and then slung to my saddle a capital leather case,
which he judged necessary and had made for my
gun.

I cannot pretend, however fluent may have been
his Persian, that his English was other than feeble —
several degrees, in fact, below that of a second-class
interpreter — yet this was the provision made for me,
and the only instrument I had to depend on, in making
the plunge into Chinese Turkistan. Had he fallen ill
or left me, I must have run aground, and in writing to
England a statement of affairs up to date, I confided to
no one but Mr Hudson Taylor how precarious was
my situation. Having penned that epistle, and held
with Joseph something like a Sunday morning service,
I proceeded after lunch to take a turn round the
camp.

We were now probably from 5,000 to 6,000 feet
above sea-level. After the heat of the valley, which

228 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Prjevalsky had specially decried to me, and which
certainly exceeded anything I had been accustomed
to, the rest and slightly cooler air of the mountains
were refreshing.

The temperature in my little tent on the bank of the
Hi at eight in the evening had stood at 780, and by
the next morning at four had come down only 8° ; also
during the first night at Chapchal there was a difference
of only 120 between the maximum and minimum
temperature, whilst on the Sunday night the mercury
did not rise above 730, and it fell to 570. In Kuldja I
had slept in a room under a sheet only ; by the river
side and partially undressed, under one fold of a shawl ;
but at Chapchal, after undressing completely, I lay in
the tent between sheets, under a double shawl and my
fur-lined ulster, and was not too warm.

Our surroundings too at Chapchal were exceedingly
pretty. On either side were lofty hills, and on the
slope below us 22 Kalmuk tents. I went the round
of these, and found a box of sweetmeats efficacious
in paving the way to the affections of the children,
and through them, of course, to their mothers, so that
I was allowed to examine their trinkets and jewellery,
and such objects of ethnographical interest as attracted
attention. To one woman I gave a fashionable London
hair-pin in exchange for an instrument of primitive
make, which she used instead of a comb for parting
the hair.

Speaking generally, all things looked squalid and
poor, there being no signs visible of nomad affluence.
The chief man of the encampment, to whom I gave
a brick of tea and a knife, was called On-Bashi (the
Turki title of an officer commanding ten soldiers), and
when, on my arrival, he came to salute me, he went

THE TEKES VALLEY. 229

down on all fours to make the Chinese kotow, putting
his head to the ground. There was also a lama in the
camp, to whom I gave a book.

On leaving the Gorge of Chapchal, we had two
hours of steep climbing to the Pass of that name ;
and from one of the turns in the defile, where it
joins that of the river Sua-Chow, a fine view is to be
had on a clear day of the Hi valley, framed on the
north by the Borokhoro Mountains, and spread out
below with a sharpness of detail resembling that of a
map in relief, and deeply furrowed in two directions
by the course of the Hi and that of the Kash tributary,
somewhat east of Kuldja.

The banks of the Hi are diversified with villages,
as if floating amid waving verdure, and animating the
landscape when brilliantly lit up by the sun. The
valley has an obvious slope from north to south, and
here we took our leave of the Hi proper, the second
of whose head waters is the Kunges, running parallel
to the Kash, and receiving on its western bank first
the Tsagma, and then, about 70 miles above Kuldja,
the Tekes. Into the Tekes valley we were in a few
minutes to look down.

The defile of Sua-Chow, whence the above-men-
tioned view is seen, wears a strange and fantastic
garb, the soil being coloured with shades of red, blue,
violet, green, and orange.

Looking at the geology of this district by the aid *
of Romanovsky and Mushketoff's map, it would appear
that we passed, between Kuldja and the spot whence
we turned into the mountains, over formations capable
of cultivation, and loess. After this the road rises
gently for about ten miles over river and lake deposits,
and then on to rocks, first of the Tertiary series, and

230 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA

then of the Jurassic and Triassic systems. Among
the Jurassic are indicated three deposits of black
and brown coal, two of them, one on each side of
the road, being worked.

Still ascending, we passed over a narrow band, there
about three miles wide, but running the whole length
of the range, of palaeozoic rocks (mountain limestone,
etc.). In the vicinity of the Chapchal gorge one
crosses also a band, extending uninterruptedly along
the whole length of the Uzun-Tau, of massive crys-
talline rocks, with outcrops, near the summit, of
dolerite. The foregoing strata include a band of
rocks of the azoic group.

This band crops out at the summit all along the
range, and consists of crystalline limestone, phyllite,
etc., over which we rode at the top of the Pass, and
then descended over a similar series, but of course in
reverse order, into the fluvial and lacustrine deposits
of the Tekes valley.

Mention should also be made, as occurring in the
Uzun-Tau, besides coal, of gold, silver, lead, copper,
iron, manganese, rock-salt, and mineral oil, the last
being found in the lower formations of the Hi and
Tekes valleys.

As we approached the symmit of the defile there
was abundance of grass and numerous fir-trees, and
from the absence of these at the actual top, Kostenko
infers that the Pass may be 9,000 feet high, but it
appears in my Russian map as 6,500.

Here at the summit of the Pass, which it took us
two hours from the camp to reach, was raised an obo,
consisting of five heaps of stones with poles, whence
might dangle and flutter tails of yaks or horses, and
pieces of calico inscribed with Tibetan or Mongolian

THE TEKES VALLEY, 231

writing. In the country of the Buriats I have seen
on similar spots sweetmeats and copper coins scattered
about, but not so here ; though on arriving at the place
my Chinese attendants all dismounted, each to add
a few stones more to the heaps, and to make their
obeisance in Chinese fashion ; perhaps also to say a
prayer, but of this I am not sure. It was not easy
to get from them information on the subject, though
they told me that these were graves of two celebrated
lamas, " who lived 30,000 years ago ! "

The descent from the Pass on the south is more
convenient than the ascent on the north, owing to the
ground falling gently, as well as to the absence of
large stones. The verdure and beauty of the defile
increased rather than diminished, being enhanced by
various specimens of fir-trees, their lower branches
resting on the ground as on an English lawn, and
their spires rising to a considerable height.

After six hours marching we reached, about two
o'clock, our stopping-place called Booghru, a small
sheltered valley by the side of a clear and swift
stream. Here was a camp of eight tents and many
cattle, some of the owners ot which had come out
to meet us, bringing koumiss and spirit. These they
invited us to quaff reclining on the grassy pile. But
south of the Pass a drizzling rain had come on, and
we preferred to hasten onwards to cover, where we
arrived slightly wet ; my waterproof overcoat being
here first called into requisition since leaving London,
five months previously.

The cattle in this camp consisted of horses, cows,
and sheep, the last being of the fat-tail breed, and
affording excellent mutton. The Kalmuks of the
Volga keep camels also, of which we saw none in the

232 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Tekes valley, nor, so far as I remember, of asses.
The excellent condition of the cattle was accounted
for by the abundant pasture, and it was not at all
difficult to believe that worn and battered horses of
the inhabitants of the Kuldja valley, on being sent
to the mountains after winter work, soon became so
fat and sleek as to be unrecognisable. Most of the
Kalmuks kept dogs to guard their tents, but of very
poor breed, and, like most Asiatic dogs I have met,
seemingly devoid of affection.

At the previous station we had been obliged to part
with our " Kara-Beg." So long as the princely animal
was lording it in his own yard at Kuldja, barking at
strangers and not unfrequently biting them, he appeared
to be a brave fellow. But when tied to the cart and
made to walk to the Hi, he was very much crestfallen,
and apparently exhausted. On the morrow we had to
cross an arm of the river, and he stood on the bank,
cried like a baby, and had to be dragged or carried
across. Again, on his third day out he became so
wearied and footsore, that he arrived at Chapchal
Gorge with swollen feet on horseback.

It became plain, therefore, that he was not the dog
for a long march. Nor was he a " carpet knight,"
albeit his name of " Black Prince." At Kuldja he
used to present himself at my open door, and wag
his tail for scraps, but never presumed to pass the
threshold ; and if, with a view to closer friendship,
I once or twice dragged him in to eat a morsel, he
seemed frightened at treading on felt, and speedily
retired to the yard, which he evidently regarded as
his proper domain.

Accordingly, Kara- Beg did not promise to be of
much use in my tent as a bodyguard, and the question

THE TEKES VALLEY. 233

arose as to what to do with him. When starting from
Chapchal, Joseph made for him a pannier arrangement
in which to ride ; but to this the beast so strongly
objected that we gave him away in exchange to a
Kalmuk woman, with a rouble as a douceur, for another
dog less daintily fed, without superabundance of fat,
and accustomed to wander in the mountains.

Our old friend was something like a long-haired
sheep-dog. The new one, whom we named " Kuldja,"
more nearly resembled a Scotch collie, and when led
off by a string speedily showed himself capable of
doing his 20 miles a day. He arrived at Booghru
without a sign of fatigue.

Next morning at eight, on the last day of July,
we left our pleasant dell and the flowing stream
(which I take to have been one of the head waters of
the river Khanakai, flowing down to the Tekes), and
under the direction of a guide made our way over
what was said to be a march of 70 It to Khanakai.
Our route took us in a south-westerly direction over
a secondary chain of low hills called Altyn-Tau (or in
some maps Alt-Tau), covered with splendid vegetation
and profusely strewed with flowers, among which
butterflies were flitting in all directions.

Some of these lepidoptera were large and beautiful,
and I thought rare ; so we improvised a butterfly
hunt, and the Chinese attendants, who handled the
nets like new toys, entered into the chase with zeal.
In their Chinese top-boots and queerly cut trousers
they rushed hither and thither, as if for dear life, with
hats blown off and pigtails flying, now toppling over,
and next lying down to pant for breath. Their prey
I at once killed and enclosed in envelopes, with due
record of date and locality. In this way we secured

234 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

specimens enough to fill all the envelopes just then at
hand, and to the satisfaction of all parties concerned.
This variation from the tedium of the march was
relished by the men.

Afterwards we had a gallop to overtake the baggage,
in the course of which Jing and his fellow-interpreter
took to racing and larking on horseback in a fashion
that showed them to be excellent horsemen. I was
glad, of course, to see them in such high spirits, and
desirous also to keep them on good terms with one
another; but it was plain that in their case, as with
children, playing and quarrelling were near neighbours.
I had begun also by this time to get an insight into
their characters. Jings countenance reminded me
strongly of the hypothetical descent of man from the
ape, and I mentally christened him " Monkey-face."

Only that morning he had been to me to complain
that one of his comrades, who had been drinking
spirits, had struck him, and, what was highly deroga-
tory to a gentleman of his degree, had kicked over his
tea. This was a matter too serious to be passed over.
The delinquent was summoned to appear before me..
He turned out to be none other than his portly, good-
natured fellow-interpreter Tor-jee, who appeared,
looking very sheepish.

That worthy's love of strong water was evident
more than once in the course of the journey. When
asked whether the charges were true he pleaded guilty,
but said they were playing, whereupon I lectured him
upon the evils of spirit-drinking, and told him to do so
no more, lest I should have to report him to the
Tsian-Tsiun for punishment. Upon this he meekly
promised obedience, and li Monkey-face " seemed
satisfied.

THE TEKES VALLEY. 235

After starting from Booghru, our guide regaled us,
after 20 It of travel, with koumiss which was innocent
enough ; but when there came out four men to meet us
from Khanakai bringing spirits also, I not only de-
clined to drink, but warned my men against doing so,
and Tor-jee in particular, who contented himself with
a sip.

On reaching Khanakai, after a march of eight
hours, we found an encampment of 21 tents in the
midst of a wide plateau, being that, I presume, called
by Kostenko the " Altyn hollow/1 with the long snow-
capped Muz-Tag range on the south, and on the north
the bold lofty mountain tops, not snow-capped, over
which we had passed. In the lofty regions of Central
Asia, the moisture is precipitated nearly every summer
day, and as it came on to rain in the afternoon I had
to reprove Osman Bai for allowing the baggage to
arrive rather wet, and threatened him with liability for
damage to the goods.

This was the only occasion I had of complaint, and
on the morrow he and the others suggested, there
having been during the night much rain and tempest,
that we should not start till the sun came out. The
waters of the Tekes, it was alleged, would be too much
swollen to allow of our fording the stream, and I
therefore listened to their advice, which subsequently
expanded into stopping the whole of the day.

It was well that we did so, since violent thunder-
storms occurred, with very large hailstones, so numerous
as to whiten the ground, whilst the rain poured in
torrents. The effect of these storms amidst this
mountain scenery was extremely grand, and served
to account for the uneducated natives connecting such
phenomena with the spirits of the mountains.

236 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Our stoppage at Khanakai gave opportunity to take
a few photographs and to see more of the customs
of the Kalmuks, in going the round of the tents, and
purchasing of one woman a head-covering something
like, but smaller than, the biretta-shaped hats worn
by the Volga Kalmuks. The Kalmuks of the Volga
appear also to use as ornament for their head-dresses
the Astrakhan lambskin, of which, however, I saw no
representatives among their sisters of the Hi valley.

The rain brought with it comparative cold, so that,
at Booghru, sleeping in a fur coat, I was none too
warm, and on the second night at Khanakai the
maximum temperature did not rise above 550, and
the minimum was 430. Next day we were delighted
with lovely weather, and rose at three, so as to have
plenty of time for crossing the Tekes.

So fully, however, did the horses appreciate the
excellence of the pasture that five of them took a long
time to catch, and we did not start till six. The cool
air of the mountains was invigorating, and we had not
gone far before the abundance of butterflies, flitting
among the flowers on every hand, invited another
hunt, which relieved our march of eight hours. At
two o'clock we reached the river Tekes at a place
called Geelan.

The Tekes emerges from the main mass of the Tian
Shan at the high group of Khan Tengri, within 50
miles of Issik-Kul, and flows at first through a deep
rocky gorge, which separates the principal mountains
from their spurs. These spurs are called by the
natives Kara-Tau.

The river, after piercing these mountains and
winding round the high and stony Tash-Tube, or
Tekes- Bash (about 10,000 feet), flows more quietly,

THE TEKES VALLEY. 237

though still rapidly, eastward to Uch-Karkak, about
30 miles west of the Russian frontier, where it passes
into a wide valley. There it receives on its southern
bank at least a dozen streams — named on the Russian
map — flowing down from the Muz-Tag range, whilst
northwards of the 16 streams marked on the Uzun-
Tau, the Khanakai is the only one whose waters are
not absorbed before reaching the Tekes.

The Tekes, in its course north-easterly to the
Kunges, flows through Chinese territory for about
130 miles, or the length of the Thames, its entire
length from the Khan Tengri being about 200 miles,
and its width where it joins the Kunges 350 feet, as
mentioned by Prjevalsky in August 1876. It is
fordable in several places, and Kostenko gives the
" point of passage " as 700 feet wide and 3 feet deep,
with low and firm banks, the bottom being also firm
shingle.

This corresponds (speaking from memory) with
what we found on arriving at Geelan, save that the
stream, swollen by snow and rain, was deepened to
nearly a fathom. As a precautionary measure I had
suggested sending on a messenger to ask that a tent
should be erected on the northern bank, in case we
should not be able to cross. This was done, and ten
Kalmuks were in waiting to carry the baggage over.

So far, well ; but when I perceived that they found
it necessary to undress completely, and that, in cross-
ing, the water covered the backs of their horses, I was
alarmed for the baggage, and, when Osman Bai came
up, asked what he proposed to do. Each package
was to be placed, it seemed, on a man's head — which,
in the case of the larger ones, would need his two
hands to keep it steady — and in that fashion he was

238 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA,

to ride through the swift stream ; a suggestion being
made that, in the case of the heaviest parcels, their
contents should be lessened.

" Thank you," said I, " that won't do for me ! Is
there no other plan ? " The only alternative was to
ascend the stream to another ford, but that was
in Russian territory, whither my Chinese escort was
unwilling to go, and where it was said papers would
be needed for crossing the frontier.

I was not afraid of coming to grief for lack of
Russian passports, and on my promising to go to
Kalmuk stations, two of my men, who, in prospect
of entering Russian territory, had talked of going back,
consented to proceed. I slept, therefore, that night
in the tent, and left Geelan next morning about seven
in a westerly direction towards the Russian frontier in
the neighbourhood of Narin-Kol.

Immediately on the banks of the river the soil was
alluvial, with two deposits of oil, but to our right as we
rode along were hills with rocks of the Tertiary system.
Butterflies again were captured, though not in such
numbers as on the higher ground. We also saw
partridges and other birds.

The ride, however, seemed very long and trying to
the temper, whilst, to. make matters worse, none of the
party appeared to know exactly where we were going.
At last, after a march of some six hours, there was
observed on a cliff above the river, with habitations
and stables below and the Russian village of Narin-
Kol in the distance, a tent, said to be the Russian
Tekes picket, to which I at once rode forward.

The tent was found to be inhabited by a few
Cossacks, commanded by a corporal, who, on reading
my papers, at once received me cordially. I was

THE TERES VALLEY. 239

getting tired and a little out of spirits, and lay down
in their sleeping-place, whilst they entertained me hos-
pitably with black bread and soup, and such things as
were prepared for their midday meal. The corporal,
with a view to correct behaviour, asked my tckin, or
rank, and by what titles he should address me ; and
then, after refreshing us with tea, and giving me half
a loaf of bread that was newer, though coarser, than
my own, he sent two Cossacks to show us the ford
and help us over.

On our way to the river a thunderstorm came on,
and it rained in torrents. No shelter was to be had,
and we were obliged to stand on the river bank and
take our chance. A waterproof protected me pretty
well, but most of the others must have been wet to the
skin, the Cossacks included, who, when I commiserated
them, laughed good-humouredly and said, " Nichevo "
— " It is nothing."

The storm past, and everything sopping with wet,
we had to get the baggage across. The river here
was not quite so deep as at the other ford, but reached
even now half-way up the horses barrels, and I had
much fear lest the packages should dip in the water,
which in some cases would have spoiled their con-
tents.

Osman Bai promised to be careful, and as an extra
incentive I promised him and each of his men a
special present if they got everything across dry and
undamaged. Neither they, the Cossacks, nor the
convoy spared themselves. Packing the baggage
high on the saddle, the men stripped and walked
through the stream again and again on each side of
the horses, and so brought everything over.

At last they had to get me across, and to accom-

24o CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

plish this they put two thick pack-saddles on a big
horse, so that I was seated about a foot above the
animal's back, and then with Cossacks on each side
to keep the barin * steady or catch him if he fell, the
party waded across and safely reached the other bank.

Whether we were now on Russian or Chinese soil I
am uncertain — I think Chinese — but there was no
friendly Kalmuk tent erected, and the nearest camp
being some miles distant, and the day far advanced, it
was proposed to bivouac once more on the banks of
the Tekes. Accordingly, Joseph rigged up, for the
first time, my palatka, or summer tent, and the men
apparently soon forgot their troubles round a fire.

Our party had been reinforced at Chapchal by a
merry and communicative lama, who wanted to go
a few days' journey with us. He put himself
en Evidence next morning at sunrise by shouting aloud
a number of long Buddhist exclamations or prayers.
This man had evidently imbibed the sentiment which
I think I have met somewhere, connected with
monastic early rising in writings on Buddhism, that
"prayer is better than sleep." At all events he did
his best to make us think so by rendering it impossible
to continue our slumbers.

After breakfast, I dismissed the Cossacks with
thanks and presents, and let them return to the Tekes
picket, whilst we set our faces in the direction of the
Muzart defile.

* Russian for " squire."

CHAPTER XVII.

UP THE MUZ- TAG MOUNTAINS.

Orography of Tian Shan system, 241. — Abundance of glaciers, but few
rivers, 242. — Sources of our knowledge of the Tian Shan; the
Muz-Tag range, 243. — Fording the Urten Muzart, 244. — Absence
of Kirghese ; Entrance to Muzart defile ; A quiet Sunday, 245. —
Remains of stone fort; Starting-point of Shepeleff; Kostenko's
route, 246. — Departure from Shattoo ; Inscription on granite rock ;
Forest zone of birch, fir, etc., 247. — Beauty of path, 248. — Butterfly-
hunting on horseback, 249. — Arrival at Udungei ; Chinese picket,
and Kalmuk tents ; Kalmuk food, 250. — Osman Bai's orthodoxy as
to food, 251. — Departure to Khan-Yailak, 252. — Visit to last Kalmuk
tent ; Comparison of koumiss of Orenburg and farther east, 253. —
Kalmuk photographs and anthropological remarks, 254. — Dress,
numbers, and administration, 256. — Russian education of Kalmuks ;
their intellectual capacities, 257. — Buddhist objects of worship;
Kalmuk women, marriage customs, and morals, 258. — Features of
nomad life ; Chinese picket, 259. — Willingness of Jing and Tor-jee
to proceed ; other two attendants sent back, 260.

BEFORE describing our journey up the Muzart
defile of the famous Muz-Tag range, a few
words may appropriately be said of the vast oro-
graphical system of which it forms a part, and to
which reference has already been made under the
name of the Tian Shan Mountains. This system is
1,500 miles long, or the distance from London to St
Petersburg, and is the largest of those in Asia sloping
towards the north.

vol. 1. 16

242 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

The chain begins eastwards, in a rocky crest, and
running south-westwards is joined by a second, a third,
and many other ranges, which, as they advance west-
wards, open out more or less fanwise, the several ranges
being connected by intervening plateaux, and continuing
to preserve somewhat of a parallel direction. Towards
the centre the plateau is 250 miles wide, whilst to the
westwards the ridges or folds become reduced in
number, and sink into the plains about Tashkend
and Samarkand.

The area covered by this mass is estimated by
Reclus at 400,000 square miles — as large, that is, as
the whole of France and the Spanish peninsula — and
it covers, therefore, considerably more ground than all
the mountains of Europe put together. And whereas
the Englishman who ascends Mont Blanc takes pride
in procuring a certificate of his exploit, let those who
aspire to higher things know that greater distinction
awaits the climber of one of the peaks of the Tian
Shan, which is more than half as high again as the
Franco- Italian monarch ; whilst for smaller climbers
there would be no difficulty in finding in the Muz-Tag
alone half a dozen peaks overtopping by at least 3,000
feet the apex of the Alps.

Again, the number of glaciers in the Tian Shan is
remarkable, for they are estimated at not less than
8,000, and of course the extent of the snowfields is
proportionately large. But though so amply covered
with glaciers and snow, the Tian Shan gives rise to
fewer rivers of importance than does the secondary
range of the Altai, farther north, whence flow the
Obi, Yenesei, and Lena. Moreover, of the rivers
flowing from the Tian Shan, not one reaches the
ocean. The Syr and Amu run into the Sea of Aral,

UP THE MUZ- TAG MOUNTAINS. 243

the Hi into Lake Balkash, the Tarim into Lob-Nor,
and numberless others are lost in, or dried up with, the
small lakes of the steppes.

Down to the middle of the present century we knew
little of the Tian Shan, and of that little much was
wrong. M. Semenof, in 1855-6, led the way into the
Ala-Tau range north of Issik-Kul, and he has since
been followed by Russian explorers and surveyors,
who have mapped the whole country and extended
their triangulations southwards to the Pamirs, to meet
those of the Indian surveyors working northwards.
General Kostenko, in his admirable work on Turkistan,
has brought together the varied information gathered
by Russian explorers of the Tian Shan, which he
describes so fully as to give a detailed though brief
account of nearly 40 of its mountain ranges.

Of these ranges one of the finest and most lofty,
with vast glaciers, is the Muz-Tag, signifying in Turki
the " ice range." Of this we first caught sight after
crossing the Chapchal Pass, the huge mass rising up
like a wall beyond the valley of the Tekes, and
extending from as far eastwards as the eye could
reach towards the enormous Khan Tengri group,
26 miles west of which the range is broken by the
Muzart gorge. It is through this difficult gorge that
Asiatics have passed southwards from time to time
between the Hi valley and the basin of the Tarim.

The appearance of the range struck me as parti-
cularly beautiful on the lovely morning we descended
from Khanakai ; and on our way up the valley one
never tired of the snow-crested horizon on the left.
On the morning we struck camp on the bank of the
Tekes I tried, during the four hours they were getting
ready, to photograph the view, but had no success,

244

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Then, starting at eight o'clock, we first made our
way across a bog — one of the few I saw in Central
Asia ; two of my convoy, with Tor-jee and the lama,
having gone off to an encampment to procure, I
suspected, a few drops of refreshment.

They reappeared bringing a Kalmuk to pilot us
across the wide but shallow stream of the Urten

BAGGAGE TENT AND " PALATKA " AT KHANAKAI.

Muzart, near its junction with the Tekes. The
passage was so easy, the water not reaching the
stirrup, that I suspected the volunteer guide had an
eye to his own advantage rather than ours.* He
seemed much delighted with the present of a two-
penny whistle.

* I notice, however, that Kostenko speaks of the Aksu (another
affluent joining the Tekes, a little farther east) and the Muzart as

UP THE MUZ- TAG MOUNTAINS. 245

Before remounting, on the west bank of the river
we had another butterfly hunt, and quickly caught 50.
After this we rode for some hours through magnificent
meadow-lands towards the foot of the mountains, and
in the afternoon turned into the hills to a place Osman
called Shattoo, at the entrance of the Muzart defile.

Here, on a lofty terrace, perhaps 100 feet or more
above the river, was pitched for me a solitary Kalmuk
tent, whilst on the opposite bank, in meadows at a
lower level, were the encampment and the cattle.
Why the river, there unfordable, was thus placed
between us did not appear. The usual sheep was pre-
sented and killed ; but my convoy, instead of staying
with us to eat it, went higher up the stream and crossed
to their camp, there to visit, it was said, some of their
lady friends, and, in any case, leaving me and my party
to spend a quiet Sunday.

Accordingly, I rose next morning, after a long and
restful sleep, to take in our surroundings. To the
south were visible abundant pastures and enormous
forests of fir, clothing the sides of the mountains about
half-way to the summits, which were bare, and not yet
clear of snow. Alongside the Kalmuk tent provided
for me Joseph had erected the palatka as shade for
the servants, whilst farther to the left was the modest
shanty of Osman Bai and his assistants, who delighted
to be so situated that they could lie under canvas and
watch their horses grazing.

A few minutes' walk behind our tents rose a terrace,

difficult to ford. He mentions also that the valley of the Upper Tekes
is deserted except in July, when it is enlivened by a tribe of Kara-
Kirghese called Bogins, and along the central Tekes, he says, Kirghese
of the Atbanof tribe wander. Whether this continues in those parts of
the valley now handed back to China I am doubtful. We neither heard
nor saw anything of Kirghese in the Tekes valley.

246 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

on the top of which I found the somewhat dilapidated
remains of a stone-built fort or barrack, supposed at
first to be a Chinese picket, but too well built for that.
I subsequently came to the conclusion that it had been
the site of a Russian military post. It was now used
as a dwelling-place by the neighbouring Kalmuks in
winter.

At the time of Yakub Khan's insurrection, he ordered
that all caravans proceeding from Kashgaria to the Hi
valley should go by the Muzart Pass. He also sent a
force of men to improve it, and established a picket on
the southern side. The Russians, therefore, fearing
that the object of Yakub was the conquest of the pro-
vince of Kuldja, kept a watch on his movements, and
when, in May 1870, the Taranchis who guarded the
Pass had attacked five Russian Kirghese, the Governor-
General of Russian Turkistan directed the Pass to be
occupied.

I suppose this Shattoo was the position of the Tian
Shan detachment, whence Shepeleff set out in the
autumn of 1871 (after the Russian annexation, during
the previous spring, of the Hi valley) to explore, chain
in hand, the gorge to the summit*

* Kostenko appears to call it " Muzart Picket," giving its distance
134 miles from Kuldja. His route seems to have varied from mine, and
to have crossed the Hi at a different point, passing through the village of
Kan, and, by crossing the Tekes at the lower ford, to have avoided the
angle we made by going to the Tekes picket. We took 54 hours of
caravan travel, which gives, reckoning at three miles an hour, a distance
of 162 miles ; but probably Kostenko's reckoning is more accurate.

By way of illustrating the difficulty of getting accurate figures from
the Chinese, I may add that the convoy gave Joseph the distance as
680 //', or 235 miles. Williams says : *' The // is usually reckoned at
1825*55 feet English, which gives 289 /* to an English mile. This is
based on the estimate of 200 //to a degree, but there were only 180 /*
to a degree before Europeans came. Thus its length is increased to
2028*39 feet» or 2'6 M t0 a mile, which is nearer the common estimate."

UP THE MUZ-TAG MOUNTAINS. 247

Leaving our camp on Monday morning, and riding
in a south-easterly direction, in a few minutes we were
joined by our truant convoy, and came to a large
stream called the Lesser Muzart, flowing from the
south into the Urten Muzart * Near the junction of
the two streams are said, by Kostenko, to be traces
of a Chinese redoubt.

Here also stands a vertical granite rock, apparently
in situ, about six feet high and as many broad, having
on one side an inscription, the letters of which are
about six inches high. Kostenko speaks of the letters
as unknown forms, and therefore of great antiquity ;
whilst Schuyler, alluding, I presume, to this stone, says
he was informed it had upon it a human face roughly
drawn, and a long inscription supposed by his informant
to be Tibetan.

I have no recollection of seeing either the face or
the Tibetan characters. Joseph pronounced the in-
scription to be Arabic, the initial words reading,
" There is but one God/' etc. He thought he could
make out the date 573 a.h. (1 1 76 a.d.), but the letters
were too weathered to allow of his discerning more.

After examining this stone we speedily entered the
forest zone of the gorge. On a low bank near the
junction of the two streams is a small birch grove.
Kostenko points out that its trees do not resemble the
Russian birch, but are more slender and pliant, though
very tall, having cinnamon-coloured bark, with fine
leaves but few branches.

Throughout the whole extent of the forest belt of

* This stream I take to be that mentioned by Shepeleff as rising in a
group of mountains separated from the rocks bordering on the gorge
by a considerable ravine, out of the middle of which rise the three lofty
rounded bosses, rather than peaks, of the Saikal.

248 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA,

the gorge, the birch-tree is seldom met with, but as
we passed along I noticed the mountain ash very much
like the Russian species, though the tree most frequently
met with was the silver fir, sometimes growing out
almost at a right angle from the steepest of slopes, yet
raising its head vertically and gracefully, the bend
in the trunk being noticeable only at the root. The
leaves of the Muzart fir, like those of the Central Asian
species, are generally soft and short. They grow
thickly on the twig, and this hangs downwards with
the weight. Downwards, too, hang the violet-coloured
cones on their long stems.

I do not know of other trees in the Muzart forest,
but of the larger shrubs and flowers {e.g., meadow-
sweet, etc.) my journal records the barberry and wild
currant, hawthorn-trees of considerable height, the
common juniper, and the tuya-kuiruk, or " camel' s-tail "
— which is widely distributed and abundant in the
higher forests, especially towards the limit of trees.
At a lower level this tuya-kuiruk is found with a stem
14 feet high and 2 inches thick, its upper part being
thickly covered with leaves and thorns.

Our road from Shattoo was the prettiest of any
we had seen since leaving Kuldja, and, after wading
through the Lesser Muzart, we entered a narrower
passage of the defile, the path meandering now along
terraces, and then passing through natural meadows
bounded by forest or hill, and bright with a great
variety of flowers.

Here we saw some very large butterflies. Upon
receiving the nets the Kalmuks initiated a new depar-
ture, and, true to their equestrian instincts, hastened to
the chase on horseback. This gave opportunity for
some very fine riding, in comparison with which polo

UP THE MUZ-TAG MOUNTAINS. 249

on a level sward is child's play. The ground was not
only very rough with rocky ddbris from the mountains,
but also the many trees and bushes in all directions
had to be carefully dodged, as the butterflies flitted
here and there.

Monkey-face and Tor-jee greatly distinguished
themselves on this occasion, bringing me again and
again their nets to be emptied, and grinning with
delight when I cast into the net a few biscuits by way
of reward. In this way 50 lepidoptera were added
to my collection, and henceforward Jing and Tor-jee
usually did their butterfly-hunting on horseback.

Continuing our route, the path lay for a considerable
distance along the left bank of the Urten Muzart,
winding picturesquely, now along narrow cornices, on
slopes of the mountains not as yet very high, occasion-
ally through clumps of firs resounding with the chirping
of birds, and from time to time over plateaux, whence
we gained transitory glimpses of the fine panorama
that awaited us.

The beauty of the route was unmistakable, and the
only drawback worth mentioning was the number of
large and small stones which now and then obstructed
the road. But even these were of interest, since
among the various kinds of rocks fallen from the
mountains there stood erect here and there huge blocks
of marble, like monuments and memorials of nature's
workmanship.

Sometimes we forded narrow streams such as the
Mai-boulak, running down to the bed of the Muzart,
and occasionally crossed crazy bridges — notably two,
about four miles from the entrance of the gorge, thrown
across projections in the cliffs and hanging over a
yawning precipice, at the foot of which roared the

250 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Muzart. Another of the streams thus entering the
Muzart is the Tosti. At the confluence the valley
widens to more than half a mile, and is dominated by
the gigantic snow-clad peaks of the Tian Shan, a noble
range.

After six hours' riding we came to a fine open valley,
where we camped for the night at a place called
Udungei, near to a tumble-down Chinese picket, built
of logs like a Russian izba, and capable of accom-
modating about 50 men. It is these urten, or pickets,
or huts, that give their name to the stream, along which
they were built and maintained formerly by the Chinese
for the supply of horses and the convenience of mes-
sengers between Aksu and Hi. Now they seem to be
of little account.

We found, however, at Udungei a camp of Kalmuks,
again at some distance from the tent pitched for me
on the open sward. The view around us became
increasingly beautiful. Looking westwards, we had
mountains on either side, with trees below those on
the left ; whilst nearer and below the hills, on the right,
ran the silver stream of the Muzart, with the Kalmuk
tents on its bank. Before we started next morning I
took photographs, and looking eastwards had in the
foreground the horses being laden, a forest of firs
beyond, and the head of the valley bounded by some
of the higher mountains, towards which we were to
proceed in the course of the day.

At Udungei they brought us, in addition to the
usual sheep, abundance of butter and milk in various
forms, as well as, if I remember rightly, some attempts
at bakemeats, which were interesting as varieties of
Kalmuk food. The remarks of Dr Seeland on the food
of the Kirghese of Semirechia would, I presume, apply

UP THE MUZ-TAG MOUNTAINS. 251

pretty nearly to the Kalmuks of Sungaria, since both
are nomads and neighbours, but with the difference, so
far as my observation went, that the Kalmuks are the
poorer.*

Among drinks both Kirghese and Kalmuks have
tea, which reaches them in the form of twigs, coarse
leaves, and dust, pressed into the shape of bricks, or
thick tiles rather, measuring perhaps 8 by 5 by 1 inches.
This they boil in a large saucepan with milk and flour,
salt, millet, and a piece or two of fat, making a decoc-
tion which at my first attempt, near Kiakhta, was
anything but to my taste, though I acknowledge that
when subsequently favoured with a cup by the Rani of
Sikkim, near Darjeeling, it was fairly palatable.

To my own servants I gave Russian tea, which,
with sugar, was highly appreciated ; and as they had
likewise plenty of bread and mutton, to say nothing of
occasional tid-bits from my tent, they fared sumptuously
every day. This helped to make things go smoothly.

Osman Bai put on a show of great orthodoxy at
the first Kalmuk camp by declining to eat any of the
offered sheep, because he said it had been killed by an
infidel Kalmuk. When assured that it was slaughtered

* " As for meat," he says, "the Kirghese eat little. Oxen and
horses are not superabundant, and a rumpsteak of horseflesh, though
the delight of a gourmand, is a rarity. The meat ordinarily consumed
is mutton. Since, however, the Kirghese of Semirechia possess on an
average only six sheep per man, of which three must be spared for
breeding, it follows that there is left only eight ounces of mutton per
man per day, whereas such is the appetite of these nomads that one of
them will easily eat four pounds at a meal ! Only the rich, therefore,
can have meat daily ; and of the masses the base of their food is
millet and other cereals, and various forms of milk diet, notably, in
summer, airan> or "soured milk, and koumiss, or milk of mares ; whilst
in winter, when these cannot be had, their place is taken by gruel and
cakes of flour."

252 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

by a Muhammadan Taranchi, he still declined, saying
that he had not seen it done. Afterwards, therefore,
in deference to his prejudices, I directed that the daily
sheep should be slain by a Muhammadan, so that
Osman might partake of the feast.

This somewhat mollified him, and when, later on,
I gave him half a pound of tea, his scruples so far
gave way as not only to permit him to accept it with
thanks, but to add, " May God love you ! " My
servant asked him why he made such a fuss about
the mutton, and yet could drink an infidel's tea and
sugar. He replied that Joseph argued like a mullah !
and when, in the course of conversation, something
was said as to the possibility of our shooting a deer on
the journey, he wished me to be informed that in such
a case he would eat a portion, if it were killed by me.

At four miles from Udungei, which we left at
eight o'clock, the Muzart receives two streams from
the south and west called Maralty, and at 20 miles
from the entrance of the gorge we had to cross the
Muzart and follow the right bank of the river through
a valley which expanded to more than a mile in
width.

There the river divides into several channels, and
the road follows for about five miles a flat foreland of
the eastern slope, bearing the name of Khan-Yailak,
or " the summer pasturage of the Khan." It reminded
me of a saying of the Kalmuks, about the upper
valleys of the Yulduz, " A fine place for gentlemen and
cattle."

It would be difficult to find a spot with more abun-
dant pasture, whether for the horses of the Kalmuk
Khan, who, according to one story, was obliged to
keep animals here for official messengers, or for Chinese

UP THE MUZ-TAG MOUNTAINS. 253

cattle, which, according to another story, were sent
here for the summer. The view, moreover, was the
most imposing I had thus far seen in the gorge, for
above and beyond the valley arose three majestic peaks
of the Tian Shan, their snowy whiteness set off by the
blue sky above and the verdure below.*

As we rode along we presently saw some Kalmuk
children catching butterflies, which was certainly
unusual ; but, on reaching their tent, it was explained
that they had heard at the previous station of the
English traveller, and were catching them for him.
Into this tent, which was the last belonging to the
Kalmuks that we saw, we turned aside to rest, and to
study further this little-known people.

The wife brought forth koumiss, and spirit said to
be made from it. What the latter was like I cannot
say, but the koumiss I came to like on occasion,
though I tasted none among the Kalmuks or Kirghese
comparable with that produced from the Bashkir mares
near Samara and Orenburg.!

I am afraid that I was not so diligent as I ought to

* In this locality, in October, ShepelefFs party noticed smoke coming
out of the ground at a spot where they had no reason to suppose a fire
had been lighted. "The clods of dark-brown earth," he says, " we
took up smoked, and continued to smoulder even when we stamped
them under foot in the snow. Specimens having been subsequently
submitted to analysis at St Petersburg, they were said to be composed
of a mixture of clay, sand, and carbonate of lime, impregnated with
organic substances such as are found in 'humus/ and minute crystals
of pyrites — in other words, alum-bearing earth."

t Near Orenburg Dr Carrick has a large establishment for conden-
sing mares' milk for infants' food, where the mares are kept and milked
with the regularity and precision of a well-appointed English dairy. At
Samara are establishments for the koumiss cure, where corks fly out of
" magnums " with the report of a cannon, and one drinks the beverage
foaming like champagne, and almost envies the poor invalids whose lot
it is to drink a dozen bottles a day.

But, farther east, where the milk is collected in vessels of doubtful

254 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

have been in taking photographs of the Kalmuks ; but
my remissness has to some extent been remedied by
the kindness of Prince Roland Buonaparte. He has
been good enough to give me a set of photographs,
taken for his anthropological series, of Kalmuks of the
Volga and Astrakhan steppes.

These are stated on his photographs to be of " pure
race," but if so, and speaking from memory, the
portraits of the Volga Kalmuks before me look more
European in feature than most of the people I saw in
the Tekes valley. The average Mongol has a flat
face, with prominent cheek-bones and small slit-like
eyes obliquely placed.

M. Ujfalvy, whose anthropological description of
the Hi Kalmuks is the best I know, speaks of their
" lips as colourless, set in a strange, almost idiotic, and
sad smile." The hair is straight, coarse, and in-
variably black, and, on the Tekes, is worn by the
men in a queue, and by the women in two long thick
plaits, whereas the Kalmuks of the Volga, both men
and women, appear to wear the hair much as do the
Russians.

So also with regard to the women's dresses. In the
west these are somewhat Europeanised, whilst their
sisters eastwards wear garments, not indeed quite
Chinese, but such as give their outer dress the
appearance neither of the Turki khalat nor of the

cleanliness and put into a leather bottle that from one season to another
is never washed out — a little of the sour milk of yesterday being left at
the bottom to turn the new milk of to-day— it is not difficult to imagine
that either fancy or fact sometimes adds a rancid taste to the noble
liquor, which the Kalmuk deems to be fit alike for gods and men. The
spirit made from it is, of course, intoxicating, but ordinary koumiss
appears to contain only about as much alcohol as ginger-beer made
with yeast.

A GROUP OF MONGOLS IN CHINESE TURKJ3TAN.

256 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

lady's garb of China proper ; whilst the women's
hats of felt worn about Kuldja resemble a Mongol
hat I bought in Kiakhta, and are not very unlike
the turban-shaped felts worn in England about 30
years ago.

When writing about the Kalmuks of the Hi valley
in Russian Central Asia I obtained much information,
seemingly original, from a pamphlet by M. Ostroumoff,
who states their numbers in 1876 as 9,600 males and
6,400 females. To these must be added, I presume,
the Kalmuks about Chuguchak, Kobdo, and Karashar.

For administrative purposes they are divided into
sumuls, or squadrons (each of 200 tents), which are
supposed to constitute Chinese irregular cavalry.
Each sumul is under the direction of a lama, called
a gelemy who is priest, doctor, and sorcerer ; and a
laic, called a zang% who is concerned with the military
and judicial affairs of the community.

I am not aware that anything is done, now that
Kuldja is Chinese once more, for the education of the
Kalmuks. In 187 1 a school was opened in Vierny
for the children of recently baptised Kalmuks, and,
at a public examination in 1875, the progress of the
pupils not only gave satisfaction to their benefactors,
but surpassed expectation.

The school, however, had been discontinued at the
time of my first visit to Vierny, and though on my
second visit I heard of Kalmuks still living there, to
whom I sent subsequently from Kashgar through the
Governor some copies of the Gospels in their vernacular,
I heard nothing of any schools on either the Russian
or Chinese side of the frontier.

During the last century the Kalmuks would appear
to have lived along the whole course of the Tekes,

UP THE MUZ-TAG MOUNTAINS. 257

to judge by the ruins of sumbes, or monasteries, still
remaining in several places. One of these is marked
on my Russian map on the river Sumbe, near the
Russian picket we visited. Another, called Ak-
burkhan, is near the spot where we struck the
Tekes, and a third ruin about 15 miles farther
west; but we heard of only one monastery now
existing, which lay too far out of my way, in the
lower part of the valley.

As for the intellectual capacities of the Kalmuks, I
would refer again to what Dr Seeland says of their
neighbours the Kirghese. Their memory for persons,
places, and things that immediately strike the attention,
is more powerful than that of persons more civilised ;
whilst recollection of sounds and forms of language is
weaker, and abstract conceptions are to them extremely
difficult.

Young scholars learn quickly, needing but three
months to be taught how to read and write Kirghese,
and to learn enough Russian to enter the gymnase
requires but a year only. They learn mathematics
better than languages ; other branches of education
are difficult ; only ten per cent, show any aptitude
for drawing. Later on, education does not progress
so rapidly. As they advance towards their teens,
they become idle and inattentive.

It sometimes happens that scholars at the gymnase
of Vierny, or cadets in Orenburg, finish their course
with distinction ; but to imagine that the Kirghese only
need education to raise them to the level of civilised
nations, Dr Seeland thinks, would be a mistake. The
experiment has now been tried for half a century at
Omsk and Orenburg with only moderate results. The
scholars manifest no enthusiasm to continue their studies

vol. 1. 17

258 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

at the universities or academies. Once become
officers or translators, they do not continue their
reading, and a great many forget the Russian they
have learned and go back to their primitive manner
of living.

The foregoing is still more true, I think, of the
Kalmuks, for whom the little Buddhism they possess
does less intellectually even than a meagre Muham-
madanism does for the Kirghese. As I entered the
tents of the various encampments we visited, I usually
asked to be shown the burkhans, or objects connected
with religious worship, such as images, prayer-wheels,
amulets, etc., which they would let me see, but would
not allow me to purchase. I do not remember seeing
religious objects of intrinsic worth. It may be that
they feared to produce anything valuable, lest it should
be pounced upon by the officers with me ; but I am
disposed to attribute their absence to the real poverty
of the Kalmuks with whom we came in contact.

The women appeared to have a hard time of it,
though much freer to come and go than their Muham-
madan sisters. A Kalmuk girl on the Tekes is a
shepherdess, and soon becomes bronzed by exposure ;
whilst even those farther west at 15 and 18 look as old
as English women of 30. They are married early, by
arrangement between the parents, who for the nonce
turn their backs upon the girl, pretending not to see,
and the form is gone through by the bridegroom of
stealing his bride and carrying her off by force.

The knot thus tied is not tied very tightly, for she
is at liberty to leave her husband and return to her
relations ; and, if a widow, she may marry again after
a month's mourning. The morals of the people are
spoken of disparagingly, though I have nothing original

UP THE MUZ-TAG MOUNTAINS. 259

to add one way or the other ; but the disparagement
may well be true, seeing that a very large proportion
of the males are lamas, and therefore celibates, so-
called, which results in immorality on the one hand
and polygamy on the other.

In the last tent we visited they gave us a warm
reception, and exhibited, it seemed to me, a favourable
example of nomad life. I saw no hay stored for
winter use. In autumn, probably, the people descend
to the lowlands — perhaps to cultivate a little land —
though I came across no fields. There are, however,
traces of old irrigation canals in the Tekes valley ;
and Prjevalsky, on his way up the Hi valley, mentions,
near the Kash, lands temporarily tilled by the Kalmuks.

I observed no cats or poultry at any of the encamp-
ments we stopped at, and few traces of foreign mer-
chandise. The jewels were of silver, and those I
obtained were of home make, and showed little taste
or skill in design. The people seemed not quite to
understand the use of some of the finery which I gave
them, but were always pleased with cutlery ; large tent
and packing needles proved acceptable ; and bricks of
tea at once met with approval.

Starting once more, we continued to ascend, the
valley of the Muzart getting narrower as we approached
the principal chain ; also on the last terraces of the
Khan-Yailak the soil became rugged and swampy.
As we were approaching the upward limit of trees,
firs appeared less frequently, and the bushes of
11 earners-tail" were only from two to three feet high.
Presently we came to a black, tumble-down, smoky
timber shed — the last Chinese picket on the northern
slope of the range.

The place was little better than a ruin, but there

26o CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

was standing room for horses and accommodation of
similar quality for human beings ; whilst we found there,
I suppose awaiting us, two men, one of whom was a
post messenger on foot, the difficulties of travel over
the next stage being usually considered too great for
horses.

We had now arrived at the limit of our friend Kah's
jurisdiction. His two servants, Koo-Kah and Tcho-
gah, had talked of going back even at Geelan, but Jing
and Tor-jee had informed me that the Tsian- Tsiun told
them they might accompany me to Aksu if I wished
it. Jing had also made me a present of a Manchu
pocket-razor, lancet, and tweezers combined, and
volunteered his readiness to go with me all the way.
I wrote, therefore, to the Tsian-Tsiun, saying that
I should probably avail myself of his permission to
take his two interpreters with me to Aksu, unless we
found on the way that the Aksu authorities had made
such arrangements as to render this unnecessary. This
letter I inclosed to the Russian Consul at Kuldja with
two letters for England, asking him to be good enough
to translate the one and post the others, and handed
the packet that morning to Koo-Kah, with presents for
himself and his fellow. They were then free to return.
Subsequently Jing and Tor-jee seemed a little dis-
posed to wish not to go forward. Tor-jee had crossed
the Pass before, and knew its hardships, and in the
light of subsequent events I was not surprised at his
hesitation ; whilst Jing had raised the difficulty of
procuring a mount on his way back, since the docu-
ment by virtue of which, as I suppose, he had received
horses from the Kalmuks would have no force on the
other side of the mountains.

I said something about hiring one for him, where-

UP THE MUZ-TAG MOUNTAINS. 261

upon, in a roundabout way, he gave me to understand
his doubts whether it would be becoming in a gentleman
of his dignity to ride a horse that was only hired,
though the gift of such an animal, he intimated, would
solve the difficulty. Osman Bai undertook to send
two horses, if no one else would, for £ 1 from Aksu
to the first Kalmuk station ; and as each interpreter
said he could not go without the other, I undertook
to be responsible, if necessary, for their carriage back,
and said that I wished them to go forward.

They seemed also to be somewhat afraid, not know-
ing what I should write about them to their master,
but were pleased when I told them that thus far they
had given ample satisfaction, and that I intended so
to testify.

Hereupon it happened that Osman Bai had the
offer of a horse from a Kalmuk, which he asked me
to advance money to purchase ; so that with this
increase of cattle and a spare horse or two of my
own, we continued our way to a favourable halting-
place, whence to attack early next morning the
Muz-davan, or ice pass.

CHAPTER XVIII.

OVER THE MUZ-DA VAN, OR ICE PASS.

From Khan-Yailak to bed of Muzart, 262. — View of Archali-Karachat
glacier; Camp at Toghri-su, 263.— Stir at daybreak, 264. — Basin
receiving five glaciers, 265. — Photograph of the "White Moun-
tain," 266. — Kaulbars* remarks on Jalyn-Khatsyr glacier, 268. —
Ice-tables and stony roads ; View of mer-de-glace, 272. — Ice-
hummocks, crevasses, grottoes, and pinnacles; Difficulties of
pack animals, 274. — Fall over precipice of horse and baggage;
Mazar-bash ; former hermitage, and fort, 275. — Soldiers' pro-
visions and horses hauled up an ice-cliff, 276. — Scrambling down
the Muz-davan, 277. — Road over rocks and stones, 278.^-From
Mazar-bash to Tamgha-tash ; End of glacier, and superb ice-
cavern ; Hiuen Tsiang's description, 279. — Frequent loss of
horses; Good fortune of first European in completely crossing
the Pass, 281.

THE picket station at Khan-Yailak, reached on
August 7th, would have been the proper
place to sleep at ; but Osman Bai wished to push on
to the very edge of our difficulties, in view of the
severe exertions which he knew awaited him on the
morrow.

We descended, therefore, into the bed of the Muzart,
and presently made our way round the slope of a
moraine on a foot- wide pathway, along which my horse
had to pick his way very carefully. It seemed to me
at the time the most dangerous thing I had attempted

OVER THE MUZ-DA VAN, OR ICE PASS. 363

on horseback, the loose stones threatening a slip of
horse and rider into the stream below.

Presently we came to an affluent of the Muzart,
called the Archali-Karachat, and looking up to our left,
whence the stream rises, we saw a magnificent glacier
shattered by crevasses — very like the Rhone glacier.
When Shepeleff reached this spot in October 1871, he
found the snow five feet deep, but sufficiently firm on
the surface to bear his weight. The glacier is men-
tioned also by Poltaratsky, who reached this spot in
1867, as did Kaulbars in 1870. I have not seen either
of their accounts ; but, according to Shepeleff, they
think this glacier the largest on the northern slope of
the Muz-Tag range, and that it is connected with the
mer-de-glace, to be mentioned hereafter, on the southern
slope. Shepeleff gives its distance from the entrance
of the defile as 27 miles.*

Where the Archali-Karachat falls into the Urten
Muzart the gorge penetrates the main mass of the
range, and the forest region gives place to that of
glaciers. Here we clambered to a little patch of grass,
called by Osman Toghri-su, arriving at one o'clock, to
spend the night. We had no longer a friendly Kalmuk
tent, and my palatka was therefore erected. Matters
were not improved by its coming on to rain.

Kostenko remarks concerning the Tian Shan in
general that during the summer months, on heights
from 4,000 to 5,000 feet, rain falls almost daily from
4 to 7 p.m., and seldom in the morning or at night.
On heights from 5,000 to 8,000 feet rain is said to

* In writing this chapter I have before me the accounts of both
Shepeleff and Kostenko ; and as they spent much more time in the
Pass than I, and examined it with professional eyes, I have frequently
used their descriptions, as better than anything I could give of my own.

264 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

alternate with snow, which quickly melts. Above
9,000 feet, he adds, there is no rain, and the snow
which falls instead quickly disappears.

According to this we might have expected a fall of
snow, instead of which we were pelted with rain, which
came into my tent, and the men had to erect a shanty
for shelter at its side. Things were a little gloomy,
therefore, as night came on, and Osman Bai seemed
excited — old soldier though he was — as if on the eve
of a battle.

Usually my men were in no particular hurry to stir
in the morning, and sometimes it was I who had to rouse
Joseph and set things going again ; but on the present
occasion Osman was about before daylight, and, shout-
ing to his men, wanted me to hurry up with the rest.
The rain had passed, but not all the clouds, and as I
peeped out in the cold grey of dawn I saw we were
approaching some splendid mountains.

The view to the south-west was too tempting not to
be photographed, even at half-past four, whilst the
valleys were still in shadow, and the sunlight lit up
only the highest peaks. The central mountain on my
camera screen was snow-capped, and rose up thousands
of feet, whilst at the foot of the picture ran the Muzart,
through which we waded about five o'clock. Then we
climbed over a steep ascent of bare rock, higher and
higher, the road up to the top of the gorge following
now the right and now the left bank of the Urten
Muzart.

Presently we arrived at a bend in the gorge towards
the west, where it presents the appearance (as Kostenko
observes) of an elevated valley or oblong basin, about
three miles long and nearly a mile wide, bounded on
the north by a steep and rocky declivity of the snowy

OVER THE MUZ-DA VAN, OR ICE PASS.

265

range, whilst the main chain shuts in the basin on the
south.

Into, or towards this basin, five glaciers descend.
The first and largest of these comes from the east, and
is fed from several sources. The second glacier lies

SUNRISE ON A PEAK IN THE MUZART PASS, LOOKING SOUTH-WEST FROM TOGHRI-SU.

north and south. Its area is comparatively small, for
it descends only to about the middle of the slope.
The cttbris which has been brought down by it
reaches, however, to the edge of the basin.

The third glacier likewise moves from north to

266 CHINESE CENTRAL AS/A.

south, but it descends much lower than the second
one, and the moraine material narrows the basin by
several feet. The western portion of the steep slopes
of the mountains in this locality has been formed, says
Kostenko, by broken rocks brought down by the
glacier. These, in the course of ages, have been
covered with soil, from which have sprung small clumps
of firs.

These represent the advanced point of forest growth
on the northern slope in the Muzart gorge ; for,
beyond it, neither trees nor even bushes are to be
seen, though, during the short summer, vegetation
appears in the form of rank grass and a few kinds of
flowers, amongst which violets are plentiful.

Here too, Kostenko adds, at the very hottest time
of the year the nights are cold and the mornings
frosty, though I observed that at three in the morning
of our leaving Toghri-su, my thermometer in the tent
registered a maximum during the previous night of
5 2° and a minimum no lower than 420.

The fourth glacier descends into the valley we are
describing by a narrow cleft, along which there is a
road. This, however, suddenly changes its direction
towards the south ; whilst the fifth glacier, moving
from the west, shuts in the valley on that side, close
to where the Tura-su falls into the Urten Muzart.
Shepeleff climbed to the lower moraine of this glacier,
which he places at 30 miles from the entrance of the
gorge, the snowfield being not much elevated above
the valley of the Muzart.

We reached the above valley in about an hour and
a half, and I could not resist setting up my camera,
though in the shadow and with only a feeble sun,
whereby was obtained, however, a capital view, looking

OVER THE MUZ-DAVAN, OR ICE PASS. 267

east, of a grand mountain, partially snow-covered, and
called by my men the White Mountain, with darker
peaks below, between two of which descended a
glacier, whose foot almost reached to the central
expanse of water at the bottom of the basin.

THE "WHITE MOUNTAIN" IN THE MUZART PASS, AS SEEN WHEN APPROACHING FROM

THE NORTH.

After crossing this valley, our road, as already in-
timated, turned sharply as in an elbow to the south,
threading a pass of the main range. From this bend
up to the highest point the distance is given by
Shepeleff as three miles. The road now becomes

268 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

difficult and lies over precipitous crags, and is choked
with stones, between which the horse must pick his
way with caution — now across glaciers, below which
streams descend with deafening noise ; or perhaps no
track at all exists, and progress has to be made over
the almost perpendicular sides of the moraine.

For my own part I managed to keep the saddle, but
hereabouts, says Kostenko," it is necessary to advance
on foot, or rather to creep along and cling with hands
and feet to the sharply projecting stones, pieces of
which become detached and clatter down into the
raging Muzart. On both sides of this gorge tower
gigantic cliffs — sharp-pointed, vertical peaks, or majestic
bluffs — over which cascades fall into the depths below.
Cornices of snow hang overhead, threatening to give
way and fill up the entire gorge. From time to time
fragments of the cliffs detach themselves and come
down with a crash, rebounding from the crags in their
descent into the abyss/'

Kostenko's journey was in summer. Shepeleffs
description is a winter one. " Turning," he says, " at
a right angle towards the south, our view was extended
over a grand and magnificent picture. Before us was,
as it were, an immense cascade suddenly congealed, and
descending nearly to the spot where the Tura-su flows
into the Muzart. It was the grandest and most beau-
tiful of the glaciers we had thus far seen. It was 350
feet wide, taking up nearly all the opening of the
defile, and, proceeding from the east, turned abruptly
to the north. . . .

" Baron Kaulbars called it Jalyn-Khatsyr. It
appeared about a mile and a half in length, formed of
blocks of dark grey ice, heaped successively one upon
the other, and of boulders buried beneath the snow.

OVER THE MUZ-DAVAN, OR ICE PASS. 269

The surface of the glacier presents clearly defined and
generally pointed outlines ; the ice of the higher beds
being of a lighter tint than that of the lateral and
lower, which are intermingled with sand and earth.
Seen in profile, the glacier presents the appearance of
an immense train, the piling up of the ice being most
considerable at the lower end, where it attains the
height of from 70 to 100 feet."

After riding for an hour from the spot whence I
took the photograph last mentioned, I attempted
another looking south, and bringing in the same
White Mountain and glacier as before, but with a dark
mass in the foreground to the left.

From the foot of the last pass on the northern slope
begins the reign of chaos, and the road is strewed
with the bleached skeletons of horses which have
succumbed. In summer, animals make their way a
little better than in autumn or winter, when the snow
fills up the interstices between the stones. At such a
time a horse is likely to fall and wrench off his hoofs.

Shepeleff speaks of his animals as suffering cruelly,
both as regards their bruises and also from the rare-
faction of the air. Of this latter, however, I have not
the least recollection at any part of the Muz-Tag
range, nor did I know what rarefied air meant until
reaching the higher passes of the Kuen Lun.

The route leading up to the crest of the Muzart
skirts the east of the Jalyn-Khatsyr glacier, and,
blocked more or less with large stones, winds along
the flanks of the lateral rocks. On the east is seen
the Urten Muzart, issuing from beneath the ice like a
slender thread, and forming the source of the river,
3 1 miles from the spot where it issues from the defile
into the Tekes valley.

270 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

The crest of the Pass is saddle-shaped, and about a
third of a mile in length, presenting the appearance of
a little plateau sloping slightly towards the south, and
affording a superb view right and left of the magnificent
peaks of the Tian Shan. None of my predecessors
appear to have had in their possession a barometer,
whilst as for my own — an excellent aneroid graduated
up to 20,000 feet, and lent me by my friend and former
fellow-traveller the Rev. J. P. Hobson — the rough
travel, I suppose, of the tarantass had put it out of
order. Hence the exact height of the Muzart Pass
remains undetermined.*

Kostenko, arguing chiefly from the cessation of
vegetation, speaks of 1 1,000 feet as the altitude of the
Pass, whilst Shepeleff, taking the Tekes valley at 5,500
feet, adds 5,000 to the glacier before coming to the
last ascent, for which he further adds upwards of
1,000 feet, giving a total estimate of 12,000 feet above
the level of the sea. The measurement by chain from
the northernmost spurs of the Muz-Tag to the top of
the Pass he gives as 49 versts 420 safens, or about
33 miles.

My last photograph on the northern side of the
crest was taken at eight o'clock, and was successful in
portraying clearly the outlines of one of the grandest
peaks we saw ; whilst in the foreground there lay a
huge mass of rocks, something like a fallen mountain
broken into a thousand pieces.

* R6clus quotes Regel as giving the height at 11,600 feet, but if
Dr Regel has written thus, it has escaped me. R6clus also mentions
Dilke as having crossed the Pass ; but neither in conversation with
Mr Dilke, nor in reading what he wrote upon his journey to Kuldja and
Issik-Kul, have I ever understood that he went over the Muzart Pass,
and I am inclined to think the names of Regel and Dilke are mentioned
in error.

OVER THE MUZ-DAVAN, OR ICE PASS. 271

Taking these pictures of course delayed us (though
not the baggage), and involved the stoppage of Joseph,
who carried my camera on horseback, and another
who carried the tripod, together with the interpreters
and guides, who became a little impatient of this study
of the artistic under circumstances they could only
feebly appreciate.

Moreover, they did not know the way too well, and
probably desirednot to be lost in this region of chaos
and horror and many skeletons of horses, where the
only beings at their ease, apparently, were the ravens
and kites, which saluted us with their ominous cries,
and longed, no doubt, for the pleasure of picking our
bones.

On finishing the photograph just mentioned, I
perceived that a stranger, one Mullah- Khoja, had
joined our party, as if dropped from the clouds. He
had, he said, been in the mountains hunting, and soon
showed that he knew his way about better than the
rest of us, so that before long he proved a valuable
acquisition.

From the crest the road proceeds southwards, the
cliffs sometimes on the right and sometimes on the left,
whilst between them lies a hollow with a flat bed, along
which, in summer, streams trickle towards the south.
At half-past ten we came to what looked like the
lower part of a long attenuated glacier, which did not
occupy the whole breadth of the valley. The surface
was extremely uneven, and stood up like a miniature
range of ice-mountains, gradually melting, and causing
thereby a stream to run at their base.

In a sketch by a Russian named Kludoff, of which
I possess a photograph, this miniature ice-range is
called the Dorga glacier, and near it the artist has

272

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

sketched what looks like an exaggerated mushroom,
or a table of rock supported on a pedestal of ice.

These ice-tables are well known to Alpine climbers,
and are formed by the surface of the glacier thawing
more slowly under a fallen rock than in uncovered
parts. Hence the "leg" is left, but only to thaw
flankwise till the stone falls and begins again to form

THE DORGA GLACIER IN THE MUZART PASS.

another table. I took a photograph of this miniature
ice-range, looking north, and then another in the
opposite direction, where the ice is less prominent, but,
from the multiplicity of rocks and stones, presents a
difficult country for horses, though less difficult than
some portions of the northern slope.

From a slight eminence, about two miles from the
highest point of the Pass, there is a view of a mer-de-

OVER THE MUZ-DAVAN, OR ICE PASS. 273

glace 1 across which the route lies. The ice, stretching
towards the south, is confined between the main peaks
of the range and its branches. The upper portion of
this sea lies east and west to the length of about four
miles. It then turns at almost a right angle towards
the south, and stretches in that direction for five miles,
its width throughout being upwards of a mile. Enor-
mous ice-waves and piles of ddbris and broken rocks,
lying in the most varied positions, present a picture of
terrible disorder.

In one part these waves and heaps are strewed with
rubbish of a smaller kind, and are overgrown by grass,
which swarms with myriads of black and grey spiders,
as well as small ants. But I was much struck with
the paucity of animal life seen on the day of crossing
the glacier, the only quadruped being a small rodent,
I think a souslik, to which Tor-jee immediately gave
chase, but to no purpose.

Continuing our journey, on either side are cliffs
rising like mountain walls, usually bare, and here and
there of reddish hue, as of granite. Scattered over
this sea of ice are innumerable specimens of coloured
marbles — of jasper, of agate, and a mass of other stones
with coloured veins of beautiful pattern. In places
the heaps of ice are free from fallen stones, and their
tops then glitter in the sun. Deep down in the layers
of ice flow streams which are heard but not seen.
Here and there the ice is cracked and broken up into
crevasses or ice-wells, into some of which I would fain
have peeped ; but to approach them was perilous, since
a false step might entail a fall into an abyss.

The farther we advanced, the less we found of
dibris and rocks, and the cleaner and clearer was the
ice ; but at the same time the road became more

vol. 1. 18

274 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

difficult. We kept for a long time to the right of the
ice, and close to the mountains, where at first sight
there seemed to be soil for the horses to tread upon,
until, having occasion to dismount, I discovered that
the supposed soil was only a thin coating of dust
over ice.

To judge from Shepeleff's description, the picture
presented by this locality in autumn and winter is still
more striking and effective. He speaks of glacial
pinnacles from 500 to 600 feet in height (meaning,
I suppose, on the Dorga glacier), and of corridors
of ice with overhanging walls. The channels and the
lakes are frozen, and the newly-formed crystals of ice
take the most fantastic shapes. The ice-grottoes,
crevasses, and pits are veiled with snow as with
a fringe. Inside are roofs of icicles, and from below
ice-pillars, built as if for ornament and intended to
receive statues.

The surface of the waters in these places is frozen
so hard that it is impossible to break the icy covering,
and each blow yields only a metallic but musical ring.
At times beneath this^lacial sea deep sounds are heard,
proceeding from internal rupture of the ice. Such
sounds alternate with the crash of falling rocks, or
the dull roar of avalanches of snow which fall to pieces
like scattering shells.

My photographic efforts had so far delayed us that
we had seen nothing for some time of the baggage.
At last, after about a couple of hours' ride from the
Dorga glacier, we saw the animals ahead, with Osman
Bai and his helpers painfully picking their way and
toiling among ice-hummocks and over crevasses, the
animals being helped over special difficulties one by
one. The party appeared on the left of the glacier,

OVER THE MUZ-DA VAN, OR ICE PASS. 275

whither by a roundabout way we had to follow,
crossing the uneven ice.

Nothing looked easier than for one's horse to slip,
and pitch his rider headforemost into a crevasse or
against an ice-hummock, so I dismounted. But this
was for the worse, since the horse proved the surer
footed. I had to remount, and ride with loose rein,
dangling my feet so that at the first sign of a slip
I might spring from the saddle.

In this fashion I was doing my best to cross the
glacier, following the lead of the old huntsman, when,
along with a great shouting, Joseph called out to me to
look at the baggage-horses filing along an ice-cliff, over
which one of them had fallen, baggage and all. This
seemed exciting enough to make one look up, but so dif-
ficult was the portion of the way I was just then creeping
over that I dared not allow my attention to be diverted,
and in due time we came to the scene of the accident.

The horse had gone too close to the edge of a
precipice, fortunately not very deep, and without
water at the bottom, so that, wonderful to say, it
was not killed, nor seriously hurt ; and as its load
happened to.be only the two chests of bread and a
sack, no damage was sustained. Osman Bai, as we
came up, was soundly rating his men for carelessness,
after which we got ahead of the baggage-horses, and
by one o'clock reached a spot called Mazar-bash, five
miles from the crest of the Pass.

Here awaited us the most trying ordeal of the
whole route. Mazar-bash is situated on the eastern
side of the nier-de-glacey where, for a portion of the
width, the ice was broken off almost vertically, leaving
a cliff from 40 to 50 feet high, down the face of which
we had by some means to descend.

276 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Mazar-bash signifies the " head of the tomb " ; in
memory, I gathered, of a saint — I suppose a Bud-
dhist monk — who, possessed probably with the crazy
idea that he was to heap up merit by freezing him-
self to death, had pitched upon this horrible spot
for his habitation. He had, however, left enough
of the odour of sanctity about the place to afford
an occasion to my Buddhist attendants to offer their
devotions.

The first European, if I mistake not, to reach this
spot was Shepeleff, who found here a small square fort
which had been constructed three years previously on
a little plateau upon one of the mountain slopes. It
had a terraced roof defended by loopholes and battle-
ments, and was built of very hard Chinese baked
bricks, without a door, and entered through a hole
in the roof, to which one mounted through a loophole
by means of a ladder.

He found here 30 soldiers armed with matchlocks
and yatagans, and rejoicing in an allowance of two
khalats and a pelisse per annum, with a monthly pay
of eight shillings, usually six months in arrear. Scant
wages this, for the pleasure of living on a glacier !
The soldiers, needless to say, were all infantry, since
there was no food for horses, to say nothing of the
difficulty of getting them there.

Notches were cut into the cliff of ice by which men
from below could mount, but provisions and fuel brought
from Tamgha-tash, the nearest picket southwards,
were hauled up with ropes, and in this fashion the
horses of caravans were let down when proceeding
to Aksu.*

* Kostenko says that caravans never returned in the opposite direc-
tion, because of the difficulty of pulling up the horses. I was a little

OVER THE MUZ-DAVAN, OR ICE PASS. 277

Shepeleff mentions as behind the fort several tombs,
which, if now existing, escaped my observation. They
are said to be alluded to in an itinerary by Ritter.
What had become of the fort at the time of my visit
I am not sure. I am under the impression they told
me that the Chinese, on regaining possession of the
country, had demolished it ; and as for getting down
the face of the cliff, we found two or three men who
said they had received orders to smooth my way, and
had been some hours at work.

Just then they were laying boughs of trees across a
crevasse, covering them with blocks of ice, and over
these, if you please, not only I but the horses were
to pass! Small wonder that one of the beasts fell
in ; but Osman Bai was again successful in recovering
his horse without serious damage.

Needless to say I dismounted, and presently came
to the top of the cliff, down the face of which we were
invited to scramble.

It looked as if blocks of ice and debris had been
hurled from above, and perhaps the face of the cliff to
some extent broken away, and steps cut here and there ;
but how to get down whilst maintaining the perpen-
dicular looked well-nigh impossible.

One man, however, took hold of my hand on either
side, and after sliding, stepping, slipping, jumping, and
all but falling half a dozen times, we alighted at last on
a spot a little less uneven than the rest, whence we
could survey the route whereby we had descended,

11 Do you mean to say," I asked, " that the horses
have to come down there ? " to which reply was given

surprised, therefore, to meet, a few hundred yards north of this obstacle,
a trader who had managed to pull up his baggage and a few animals,
wherewith he was proceeding to Kuldja.

278 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

in the affirmative, and I watched curiously to see how
the feat would be accomplished.

I do not remember seeing ropes attached, but my
own horse was taken by one man at his head, whilst
another held him back by the tail, and, thus steadied,
he was made to scramble and slide on legs or haunches
as he chose, till something like terra firma was reached
at the bottom of the glacier.

The whole proceeding struck me as the most horribly
dangerous piece of progression I had ever witnessed,
or probably ever shall witness again ; and as Joseph
had succeeded in safely bringing my camera down, I
celebrated the occasion by taking a view of the Muz-
davan with our horses descending. Why it does not
figure in my book will presently appear.

There was no need for me to stay to see all the
horses and baggage descend ; so, after agreeing as to
the spot for spending the night, which Osman expected
to attain before dark, my suite and I rode forward, our
route hugging the mountains on our left, and having
the gradually contracting glacier on the right, whilst
beneath our horses' feet were rocks and stones, some
of them a yard thick, over and around which we had
to proceed.

Sometimes stepping-stones had to be placed against
elevations that the horses might ascend, which mine
on one occasion disdaining to use, took a standing
jump, to the surprise, though happily not the unseat-
ing, of his rider.

Joseph came off less fortunately, for perceiving that
he was to be thrown by, I think, his horse falling, and
remembering what store I set on the apparatus he was
carrying, he generously thought of my camera first and
his own bones afterwards, and allowed himself to be

DESCENDING THE

V /St?'. n4m

Page 278.

OVER THE MUZ-DAVAN, OR ICE PASS. 279

thrown, camera upwards, on to a rock that bruised him
a good deal, so that he felt the effects for some days,
though happily no bones were broken.

Shepeleff was rightly informed that from Mazar-
bash to Tamgha-tash the route continued to present
serious difficulties. It is encumbered by a mass of
gigantic stones and fragments of rock fallen from the
neighbouring mountains, and deposited by the mer-de-
glace. Over these we had to make our way as best
we could for about two miles, which took fully three
hours, till we came to the southern end of the
glacier.

Late in the afternoon we passed a superb ice-cavern,
out of which a torrent issued. I judged the cave to be
from 50 to 100 feet high, with roof and walls broken
into a thousand curious shapes, and its weird splendour
was a fitting close to a day full of scenic marvels.

I am reminded, however, that it would be but the
beginning of wonders in the case of Hiuen Tsiang, my
worthy and only predecessor of note in this portion of
the Pass, since Kostenko says, " No European has
ever gone beyond the Mazar-bash picket." I am not
in the least surprised, therefore, that coming from the
south and filing past this cavern and scaling the ice-
cliff, suggested to Hiuens imagination the need for
some very strong superlatives.

Accordingly he says, as translated by Beale, " The
mountain is steep and dangerous, and reaches to
heaven. From the creation the perpetual snow which
has collected here in piles has been changed into
glaciers which melt neither in winter nor summer ;
the hard-frozen and cold sheets of water rise mingling
with the clouds ; looking at them the eye is blinded
with the glare, so that it cannot gaze for long. . . •

*8o CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

" The icy peaks fall down sometimes and He athwart
the road, some of them ioo feet high, and others
several tens of feet wide. On this account there is
extreme difficulty in climbing over the first, and
danger in crossing the others. Moreover, the wind
and the snow, driven in confused masses, make it
difficult to escape an icy coldness of body, though
wrapped in heavy folds of fur-bound garments. When
desirous of food or sleep, there is no dry place to be
found for a halt ; the only way is to hang the pot for
cooking, and to spread the mat for sleeping, on
the ice."

Hiuen Tsiang has been called the " Asiatic Marco
Polo," and has been suspected of telling " Travellers
Tales." Thus far, however, his words are true, after
which he or his Chinese editor, in the Records of
Western Countries, adds : —

" Frequently fierce dragons impede and molest
travellers with their inflictions. Those who travel
this road should not wear red garments nor carry
loud-sounding calabashes. The least forgetfulness of
these precautions entails certain misfortune. A violent
wind suddenly rises, with storms of flying sand and
gravel ; those who encounter them, sinking through
exhaustion, are almost sure to die."

Now, if my honourable predecessor in Muzart
literature instead of " dragons " had employed the
word ghosts or hobgoblins, then, though I would not
risk my reputation by going quite so far as to say that
I actually saw any of these supernatural appearances,
yet I would venture to add, if there were none in the
vast, mysterious cavern whereon we last set eyes, then
I can only say there ought to have been, so appro-
priate a dwelling-place did it appear, according to all

OVER THE MUZ-DA VAN, OR ICE PASS. 281

the traditions of childhood, for a whole tribe of ogres,
demons, and genii of the mountains !

To return, however, to sober criticism, Beale sug-
gests that the dragons and their inflictions may allude
to the sand and gravel storms, whilst as an alternative
rendering of the next sentence he would substitute
" ought not to carry calabashes nor shout loudly, "
as if water freezing in and bursting the calabashes
might with the sound so caused, or by shouting, cause
the "snow piles,, to fall. "Why red garments," he
adds, " should be interdicted is not so plain, unless
dragons are enraged by that colour.' '

It took the Buddhist pilgrim seven days to get clear
of the mountains. Twelve or fourteen of his party
were starved and frozen to death, whilst the number
of. oxen, or yaks, and horses that perished was still
greater.

They told me at Mazar-bash, if I remember rightly,
that as many as 30 horses are sometimes killed there
in a month. It was, therefore, no small mercy to have
got off the glacier with a sound skin, and without
loss of cattle, and thus have been permitted to be the
first European to completely cross the Pass of the
Muz-davan.

Beyond it we were still to continue over undescribed
ground as far as Aksu.

CHAPTER XIX.

DOWN THE MUZ ART VALLEY.

Tamgha-tash station unapproachable; Waiting for baggage, and
supperless to bed in the open, 283. — A remarkable day, 284. —
Arrival next morning of Osman Bai ; Military insignificance of
Tamgha-tash, 285. — Departure southwards ; A marble monu-
ment, 286. — Fine view from Balguluk ; Professor Bonney's note
on Romanovsky's geological map ; Kungei Ala-Tau range ;
Rocks east, south, and west of Issik-Kul, 287. — Shaping of
mountains, and suggested periods of earth movements, 288. —
Alexander chain compared with Swiss Oberland; Complicated
orographical structure at Kara- Kol watershed, 289. — The Ferghana
mountains and their characteristic rocks extending to Pamirs;
Geology of route southwards, 290. — Three lines of orographical
folding ; Continuation of author's route, 291. — Accident in fording
river ; Camera washed away ; Attendants' pursuit, and success in
recovering baggage, 292. — Arrival at Kailek, 294. — Breaking into a
post-station, 295. — To Tuprak ; An afternoon's shooting, 296. — Pur-
chase of an eagle, 297. — Joseph's taxidermical masterpiece, 298. —
Departure from Tuprak, and pursuit of partridges ; Narrow escape
from homicide ; Arrival at Muzart-Kurgan, 299.

WHEN we had quite descended from the glacier
and moraine we found ourselves within hail
of the picket of Tamgha-tash, or " stone seal," and
could see the building on the western side of the river.
This river came dashing out from under the ice in a
stream perhaps a hundred feet wide, and extremely
swift. It bears the name of Muzart, but is called
Muzart-nin-su, or southern, in contradistinction to the
Picket Muzart flowing northwards.

DOWN THE MUZART VALLEY. 283

Tor-jee boldly plunged his horse in to cross, but
found the water too deep, so that he was obliged to
shout his communications to a man on the opposite
bank. By dismounting we could, no doubt, have
approached the station by the end of the glacier and
moraine ; but it was already late in the afternoon, and
we had to proceed nearly a mile farther to Tamgha-
tash, the spot predetermined by Osman Bai.

It looked as if we might ride along the eastern bank
of the stream under a cliff about 50 feet high, but the
old huntsman pronounced this impracticable, by reason
of water farther on. He then led the way on his little
horse, which scrambled like a cat up to the top of the
cliff, whither we had to follow* Then, after travelling
above the flooded banks, we descended to a sheltered
nook beneath the bluff, with the river a few yards in
front of us, there to wait for tent and baggage.

Waiting soon became monotonous. Sunshine had
ceased after midday, and, as twilight came on, rain
came with it, but not the longed-for Osman Bai.
" What could have happened ? " we all asked ; and I
sent back a man to reconnoitre, but he brought no
tidings, and it looked as if we should have to spend
the night as we were. If he had not descended from
the glacier before dusk, clearly he could not do so with
his horses in the dark.

There was nothing, therefore, to be done but to
bivouac supperless. Nor was there a stick of fuel
at hand, though much to be desired in the proximity
of glaciers, and with rain descending. Happily, a man
at the picket, knowing our necessity, by a long and
roundabout way brought us an armful of wood, and
Joseph found for me a narrow ledge under the bluff,
partly sheltered by the overhanging cliff from the rain.

284 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Here he spread the felt from under his saddle-, and
proceeded to do his best for my comfort. Rummaging
among his saddle-bags, he found a few spoonfuls of tea ;
but though we had fire, and water more than enough,
there was to hand neither saucepan nor kettle.
Suddenly I remembered that the maker of my
enamelled tea-bottle (of the pattern supplied to the
British troops in the Egyptian campaign) had said to
me casually, " You know you can put this bottle in the
fire without harming it " — whereupon we extemporised
a kettle, and Joseph produced an enamelled cup.

Next, I bethought me of the few biscuits left in my
holster, and, lastly, of a box of meat lozenges. These
provisions had, of course, to be shared with our fellows
in tribulation, and, knowing how far imagination goes,
even in matters of meat and drink, I proceeded to
descant upon the wonderful properties of the little
brown lozenges, seen now by my attendants for the
first time. I was not able to tell them the exact
number of pounds of beef condensed into the lozenges,
but they were to suck, and suck, and suck again, till
the whole was melted, and then to believe that they
had swallowed the efficacy of an undefined quantity of
meat without the trouble of cookery, of serving, and
of mastication.

Then, our too scanty supper over, I lay down for
the first time I could remember wanting a meal but
unable to get it. I could write no diary, but my note-
book reminded me that it was the only date in my life
that could be written by five out of six figures alike —
namely, 8/8/1888 — and I thought it had been verily a
day much to be remembered.

The wonder to me was that on any one of 20
occasions I had not broken my neck, so dangerous was

DOWN THE MUZART VALLEY. 285

the journey we had just been permitted to accomplish ;
whilst to spend a night in the open without proper
wraps was likewise to me a new experience.

When tempted to grumble I recalled an episode in
the life of one who spent a night and a day in the
deep, in comparison with which my situation I thought
enviable ; and then, putting on my waterproof for what
little warmth it could afford, and hoisting an umbrella
against wind and rain, and with Joseph sitting at my
feet with his back to the bluff, wearied I fell asleep.

Sunrise brought light, and gladness too, when at six
o'clock Osman appeared, and to my great relief re-
ported the loss neither of beast nor burden. Darkness
had overtaken him on the moraine, and finding a little
spot tolerably clear of stones, he had bivouacked there,
and was now ready to continue his march without
stopping.

A tall black horse of mine, which carried the kitchen
necessaries and sundry provisions, was detached to
remain with us whilst a breakfast was hastily prepared,
pieces of meat, I remember, being cooked in native
fashion on skewers. After our meal we were to follow
and overtake Osman Bai. Meanwhile I thought the
spot should be delineated, so I took a photograph of
it, including an inscription I could not read on the rock
above where we slept.

At Tamgha-tash are, or were, two stations; one
built by the Chinese, and the other by Yakub Khan,
who was so bent upon getting his little fortress erected
that they told me he came there in person, and
encouraged his followers by working "with his own
hands.*

* Shepeleff thought that his placing soldiers here and at Mazar-bash
could be due only to fear and suspicion, though, it might be, the Khan

286 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

From Tamgha-tash, at eight o'clock, we set out in
a south-easterly direction, continuing on the western
bank of the river through a grand valley with bare
mountains rising on each side. They gave me the
name of one on our left as Kalpak-tash, and it had on
its face, half-way up, the remnant of a glacier, whilst
farther on we saw another glacier and two arches, like
huge bridges thrown across a chasm, and connecting
the two mountains.*

In front of us was a mountain named Go-gil-ga,
with its head in the clouds. Behind was another known
as Kara-davan, blocking up the north end of the valley ;
whilst all around were bare peaks, and little verdure
anywhere, except a few bushes bearing red berries.

The route was most difficult by reason of the large

stones, over which our horses had to pick their way.

This opinion seemed to have been shared by some of

our predecessors, who, towards the southern end of the

valley in the locality we are speaking of, had erected

a block of white marble, and cut upon it a Turki

inscription to the following effect, as translated by

Joseph : —

" He who comes this way once may be pardoned, as not knowing what
he is doing ;
He who comes twice is a fool ; whilst
He who comes a third timeis hopeless as a kafir " (or infidel).

wished thus to afford assistance to caravans and travellers in this
inhospitable region. From a military point of view Shepeleff considered
Mazar-bash as of no real value, and that the better place for a military
post to guard the Pass was in the narrow part of the defile leading to
the picket of Tamgha-tash.

* Snow bridges in the Tian Shan, Kostenko says, are often met with
much below the glaciers — namely, at 5,000 feet or lower. They some-
times attain more than a mile in length and 100 feet in thickness. They
are formed out of the masses of spring avalanches, and therefore the
snow in them is mixed with rubble and pebbles brought down from the
surrounding crags.

DOWN THE MUZ ART VALLEY, 287

Presently we came to a spot which the men called
Balguluk, whence, looking northwards, the valley pre-
sented a magnificent appearance, the river meandering
along its comparatively flat bottom, and a huge
mountain mass lying at right angles thereto, whilst
at the southern end was Mount Upga-tash rising to
the left, and Tugh-balshi in front.

But what struck me most of all in this locality was
the clearly defined and fantastic conformation of the
rocks, the principal varieties of which are indicated
on Romanovsky and MushketofTs map # as granite,
syenite, and gneiss.

Riding for another hour brought us to a part of the

* This valuable geological map of Russian Turkistan seems to be
little known in England, and is not in the possession, I am told, even
of the Geological Society of London. Professor Bonney (who had not
seen the map until I showed it to him) has favoured me with the follow-
ing remarks, which scientists will appreciate, on the geology of the
Tian Shan, especially those portions of it over which I passed. With
the map lying before him he writes : —

"The mountain chain, Kungei Ala-Tau, which separates the basin of
Issik-Kul from the head of the great lowland (covered by post-Tertiary
deposits), evidently consists of two or three roughly parallel ranges
forming a series of folds. The basement rocks are crystalline, chiefly
granitoid and gneissoid, together with masses of "porphyries" and
felsites, and occasional dioritic rocks.

" This is very probably a group similar to that which in several
places forms the core of the Alpine ranges — namely, granites and other
rocks of igneous origin, but of great antiquity, to which a foliated
structure has been imparted by pressure.

" On this group rests, obviously with a great interval between them, a
group of not very highly altered rocks— crystalline limestones, phyllites,
quartzites, and conglomerates. These are indicated as older than
Silurian, and they are not improbably rather anterior to the Cambrian
system. On them, towards the eastern end of the chain, Devonian
rocks are resting, evidently unconformably, and these are followed by
Carboniferous, which are either unconformable to or overlap the
Devonian.

" Until we have travelled some distance east of the lake, where
Jurassic rocks set in, we find nothing between the Carboniferous system
and the Tertiary series (which is not subdivided into systems) ; even the

288 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

valley called Coombell, the rocks being light-coloured
on our right and dark on the left. In sheltered spots

last being absent over the greater part of the chain. They occur, how-
ever, on both sides of the basin of Issik-Kul, where they are frequently
overlain by post-Tertiary deposits.

"It is evident that the whole region has been affected by earth
movements of more than one date. As we carry our eyes westward
along the general strike of the rock masses, we are brought insensibly
into the vast mountain massif west of Issik-Kul (the basin of which
appears to be only a trough, broader than usual, in a series of folds),
and we see that the southern part, at least, of the Kungei Ala-Tau is
inseparable from the massif of which the Alexander range forms also
a part.

" In this range we find that crystalline schists (mica, chlorite, talc,
etc.) set in between the phyllite-marble group and the fundamental
gneissoid group. They are not, however, invariably present, for the
former sometimes rests direcdy on the latter.

" It is therefore probable that, as a rule, the phyllite-marble group is
separated from anything below it by a considerable break, and was
formed at an age much nearer to Palaeozoic times than either of the
others. When it was being deposited, probably old land surfaces of
granite, gneisses, and schists already existed, and supplied the
materials of the conglomerates, quartzites, and phyllites. We may
expect to find that, as earth movements of pre-Carboniferous age have
left their mark in the Alps (where the chain, as a whole, is much more
recent), so they have here ; only in this case we may date them as pre-
Devonian.

" But the shaping of the existing mountain chains must certainly be
post-Carboniferous. If we may assume that the evidence obtained
from the eastern end of the chain holds good for the rest, we may
affirm this shaping to be post- Jurassic. Cretaceous rocks do not
appear to occur, but, so far as I can form an opinion, I think that the
mountain chain was developed before the Tertiary rocks were deposited,
though it is probable that some of these have been affected by impor-
tant movements.

" In short, so far as I can interpret the map, I should say that, as in
the case of the Alps, the mountain system of the Tian Shan was due to
more than one process of movement. Whether there is any connection
in time between the disturbances which have affected the European and
the Asiatic systems depends on the date assigned to the Tertiary
deposits on the latter, on which question the map gives no information.
In this region, however, it is probable that there was no such continuous
depression from the beginning of the Trias to the end of the Eocene
as there was in the Alps. But just east of the east end of Issik-Kul

DOWN THE MUZ ART VALLEY. 289

there were a few trees, but vegetation was scanty
everywhere — a striking contrast to the luxuriant ver-

Jurassic rocks occur, forming an elongated mass, and covered directly
by Tertiary deposits.

" As the map is not coloured for more than a comparatively short
distance south of Issik-Kul, we must shift our position to the west of
the lake, i.e. to somewhere in the neighbourhood of Tokmak, which is at
the head of a great inland basin lying north of the Alexander Moun-
tains. From here, by following a line rather to the west of south, we
can keep on the geologically coloured part of the map.

" The Alexander chain is obviously a prolongation of the Kungei Ala-
Tau, immediately north of Issik-Kul : the Chu valley, traversed by the
post-road from Tokmak, not indicating any real orographical boundary.
It is therefore probable that, as in the case of the Swiss Oberland range,
the complete elevation of this Alexander. and Kungei Ala-Tau range is a
more recent event than the definition of the mountain range forming
the watershed to the south.

" These Alexander Mountains consist, as already said, of a central
gneissic axis, fringed on each side with crystalline schists, which are
overlain by the phyllite group. Farther west, Devonian and Car-
boniferous rocks set in on the northern face, and above all comes a
continuous border of Tertiaries. There is, however, a strip of Jurassic
rock, probably a minor infold, extending from a point south-west of
Tokmak to the longitude, approximately, of the west end of Issik-Kul.

" South of the Alexander Mountains the orographical structure is
extremely complicated. From the Kara-Kol Pass (on the longitude of
Pishpek), which crosses a southern offshoot from the Alexander Moun-
tains, the streams on the eastern flank flow eastwards, and ultimately,
after being joined by rivers that rise much farther south, form the Chu
and run northward past the west end of Issik-Kul to Tokmak ; whilst
from the west side of the Pass the streams all find their way in a
southerly direction, joining the Kara-Kol river (one of the upper streams
of the Syr-daria), the basin of which seems to encroach in a northerly
direction, and produces a marked flexure in the general line of the
watershed.

" The geology of this region is correspondingly complicated. The
broad trough of the Issik-Kul basin can be traced for some distance
west of the longitude of Tokmak, but the trough itself seems to consist
of a group of folds which are composed of phyllites and older rocks,
with some Carboniferous deposits and considerable masses of Triassic,
Jurassic, and even Tertiary rocks. Hence it would seem to have been
an area of deposition up to a comparatively late date. The folds have
a general east to west direction, but the river courses are remarkably
complicated, as if, after they had first been defined, they had been

VOL, 1. 19

290 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

dure of Khan-Yailak, and other pastures on the northern
slope of the range.

We were thus making our way, all going well, until

affected by movements in new directions. The watershed for a short
distance from the Kara-Kol Pass runs due south, then sweeps off to the
east, passing south of Issik-Kul, and inosculates with the main range
of the Tian Shan, which follows a south-west direction.

" The foregoing complication is increased by a long range, the
Ferghana Mountains, which runs off from the southern Tian Shan (from
near the Terek Pass) in a general north-westerly direction, and consists
of members of the phyllite group, flanked locally with Carboniferous
rocks, and everywhere by Triassic or Jurassic rocks, with which Tertiary
strata seem to be infolded. Presumably this area was one of deposit up
to a comparatively late period, and has been since disturbed by flexures
in more than one direction.

' ' Rather to the south of the junction of the above-named Ferghana
range with the main Tian Shan chain (which takes place a little west
of the lofty lake Chadir-Kul), lines of flexure, running east and west,
become again more conspicuous, as we come to the ranges south of the
Ferghana basin, which is drained by the upper waters of the Syr-daria.

"These ranges, forming the northern part of the Pamir, consist of
the gneissic and the phyllite groups, infolding, at first, Carboniferous,
with some Tertiary rocks. Then some Devonian beds appear below
the Carboniferous; and some Jurassic are seen locally beneath Creta-
ceous (these last rocks appear to be limited in a north-easterly direc-
tion by the line of the Ferghana range). Tertiary rocks still occur as
before. East and west folds continue towards the south till we reach
the great Kara-Kol lake in the Kargosh Pamir, and they affect the
drainage of the head-waters of the Amu-daria. The folds consist
mainly of the gneissic and the phyllite groups, with or without crystal-
line schists ; but as strips of Cretaceous and Tertiary rocks are involved,
there must have been great earth movements since the date of the
latter.

" From near the Kara-Kol lake, the main watershed of Asia strikes off
over the Pamir plateau, dividing the drainage of Chinese Turkistan.
first, from the tributaries of the Amu-daria, and then, from those of the
Indus.

" The route from Kuldja southwards crosses the Uzun-Tau (a pro-
longation of the chain north of Issik-Kul), which range is a complicated
wrinkling of the gneissic and phyllite groups with some crystalline
schists, flanked by Carboniferous, Triassic, Jurassic, and Tertiary rocks.
Kashgar appears to be situated on a post-Tertiary deposit overlying
Tertiary rocks, beneath which are rocks assigned to the Trias.

" In the foregoing description I have not taken note of the dioritic

DOWN THE MUZART VALLEY. 291

about two o'clock, when it became necessary to ford
the Muzart-nin-su, here as wide perhaps as the Thames
at London Bridge, but divided into several streams,
and rushing rapidly. We had successfully forded
streams on so many occasions, that it seemed unne-
cessary to take special precautions now ; and, our old
Nimrod having stayed behind to chat, probably with
Osman Bai, Joseph, Amin, and I prepared to follow
Tor-jee.

I suppose our dog did not like the look of the

rocks, which are probably subordinate members of the gneissic series,
or of occasional masses of gabbro, serpentine, etc., and but little of the
" porphyries," felsites, etc., these being all orographically of minor impor-
tance ; and as they must be, in many cases at least, intrusive in the
rocks with which they are associated, there are no means of ascertain-
ing their age. Also I have left unnoticed the occasional patches of
dolerites, andesites, etc., which, even if they may occasionally form
elevated peaks, as in the Caucasus, are probably very late in date and
of little structural significance.

" Looking at the map as a whole, the mountain massifs of these
parts of Asia appear to be due to three leading lines of folding, the axes
of which run respectively north-west (or a little to the south of it), west-
south-west (or a little to the south of it),. and nearly west. Possibly the
last may be due to the combination of the first and second, but I
believe all three to be distinct. All seem to be post-Jurassic.

"I cannot decide from the map whether the Tertiary rocks form
flanking ranges like the nagelfluh and molasse in the Alps, or whether
they enter into the composition of the main ranges, like the earlier
Tertiaries of those mountains. Although the information before me is
not sufficient to enable me to venture upon any suggestion as to the
relative age of these disturbances, yet they point strongly to the com-
parative newness of this great mountain system. As the folds which
run from west-south-west to east-north-east and from west to east seem
to be especially effective in complicating the drainage systems, I am
disposed to think that both these, at any rate in part, are due to move-
ments of very late date.

" The peculiarly irregular paths followed by some of the rivers suggest
that, after their courses had been roughly determined by an early set of
movements, others took place, along different lines, so that the rivers
had to escape from the rocky labyrinth thus produced as best they
could. But upon this question, in the absence of detailed information,
one can do no more than offer a surmise. — {Signed) T. G. Bonney."

292 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

current, nor perhaps the icy water, and was hanging
back, whereupon Tor-jee kindly dragged him up to his
pommel, and thus found occupation for one hand, whilst
with the other he was leading the black horse laden
with the saucepans, and, on the top, what was far more
valuable — my precious camera.

And now began a scene. The rough stones of
yesterday's route had made the black horse footsore,
so that on getting into the middle of the stream he
stumbled, and Tor-jee, unable to attend to so many
things at once — his own horse, the dog, and his own
safety — let the sumpter go.

This was exciting enough, to see the animal lying
in mid-stream, with part of his baggage under water ;
but matters grew worse when, trying to rise, he only
partially recovered himself, and was washed by the
force of the current into deeper water, where the
baggage kept going down and down, till at last the
whole of it, camera and all, was completely under
water, and the only thing above the surface was the
horse's black head, he struggling for dear life. On
and on he swam, and farther and farther receded from
my vision my camera, with its roll of 48 views com-
pleted only an hour or two since, and including the
wonderful " Muz-davan with our horses descending."

Of course I shouted and bellowed directions with
all my might, and in turn Joseph had to shout to
me in mid-stream that I was exposing myself to
danger, and should be carried away too if not careful.
So swift was the current that to look down, even
when my horse was standing still, made me quite
dizzy, and I was glad with Joseph and Amin to reach
a shoal in the middle of the river, whence we could
see the horse floating farther and farther away, until

DOWN THE MUZART VALLEY. 293

presently we saw him washed on to a bank, where
he managed to loosen the baggage ropes and break
himself free.

Meanwhile Tor-jee had not been idle, but had de-
scended along the stream, and, knowing the value I
set on the camera, left the horse to look after itself
and made for the baggage, of which only a small
portion was visible above the surface. What he was
doing with it we could not, owing to the distance,
make out, and I sent to his assistance Amin, who
quickly stripped himself and ran off in natures robes
by the nearest way.

We saw him come up to the spot, but were puzzled
to observe both now stooping and apparently unable
to do what they wanted. This, of course, was highly
exciting, nor were we greatly helped on getting out
my telescope to view the proceedings.

At this juncture the old huntsman came up, and
galloped his little horse over the stony bed of the
river and through its streams in truly workmanlike
style. The black horse had made his way out of
the water, and was standing sheepishly on a shoal
far down the river. Nimrod brought him back to
his fellows, and also approached to the help of Tor-jee,
whilst Amin came back to his clothes, his teeth chat-
tering, and his whole frame shivering.

I never in my life saw a man shiver so, and was
fearful as to what might be the result ; so I helped
him to get at once into his sheepskin coat, after which,
but not before, he could give us a little information.
As for Osman Bai, he came up when the excitement
was beginning to abate, and, taking things very coolly,
chose a different place for his horses to cross, and
quietly went on his way.

294 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Amin being dressed, we prepared to follow, and
crossed the remainder of the river, to be met by Tor-jee,
who brought me my camera with a smile of triumph,
as if aware that he was doing something that would
please me highly.

He said that on stooping to detach from the other
baggage the felt wherein for protection the camera
was wrapped, so icy cold was the water that his
hands were numbed, and he was obliged to hold all
down till assistance came, to prevent the whole being
washed away. This explained his apparent inaction
as seen from a distance, and I forthwith concluded
that Tor-jee, Amin, and the old huntsman had exerted
themselves nobly, and promised each a special reward.

The pots and kettles suffered nothing by the ducking ;
but the flour was prematurely made into paste, the
bread was reduced to a similar condition, and one
of the component parts of the baking powder had
fizzed away. The wreckage, however, with my camera
case emptied of water, was placed again on the back
of the horse, whose temper was not improved by the
episode, for he kicked Tor-jee when urged forwards
after his fellows.

We then made our way along the western bank of
the river, and in about an hour came to a small pasture
with sheep feeding. Here Osman Bai wished to en-
camp, saying that if we went on to the station a mile
or two farther, he would have to bring back his horses
to this spot for pasture. This he was told he must
do, and about six o' clock, after a ten hours' ride, we
arrived at the station of Kailek.

Kailek was found to be a Chinese picket, large and
well built compared with any of the pickets we had
seen north of the Pass, and situated in a little grove

DOWN THE MUZ ART VALLEY. 295

of poplars. Its courtyard was surrounded by stables
and rooms, but the officer supposed to be in charge
had gone away on a visit, and had locked the door.

Since necessity knows no law, we took French leave,
forced the door, and obtained possession ; the room
appropriated by me having a kang, or sleeping plat-
form, and a fireplace, but nothing more. A few
chickens wandering about helped to afford us a
welcome back to settled life, after sleeping in nomad
tents, and my first care was to look after affairs
photographic.

My camera, selected and arranged by Dr Lindsay
Johnson, was a half-plate expanding apparatus made
by Perken, Son, & Rayment, measuring, when folded,
only 8x8x3 inches, wherewith, if needful, ordinary
glass negatives could be used. It had been fitted with
one of the box roller slides of the Eastman Company,
containing a sensitised paper roll for 48 exposures, the
whole, with a double back and everything except the
tripod legs, fitting into a leather case 10 x 10 x 7
inches.

This case was usually wrapped in a sheet of felt,
which served for protection during conveyance on
horseback, and was spread on the ground when taking
views, Amin carrying for me that and the tripod bag.

I think it says a great deal for the excellence of
the cabinet-making and workmanship of this box,
that, notwithstanding the thorough ducking I have
described, little if any water got inside the roller
box, and I lost only the last two of the 48 views,
that of Mazar-bash and Tamgha-tash, the last being
unrolled and having nothing but the vulcanite slide
between it and the water in the outer camera case.
The glue fixing the leathern portion of the camera

296 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

had been here and there dissolved by the water, and
I greatly feared my picture-taking was at an end ; but
things were not so bad as they looked, and, though
stopped for the next few days, I managed afterwards
to repair the damage.

Next morning we left Kailek at half-past nine,
starting thus late partly because, after the rugged
route of the previous two days, some of the horses
needed to be re-shod. Three hours sufficed to bring
us to Tuprak, where was a station, inhabited and
in somewhat better order than at Kailek.

Here I challenged old Nimrod in the afternoon to
go out with me shooting, and was amused to watch
his proceedings. He carried a curious old gun, to
the muzzle of which was affixed a pronged rest to
place on the ground and steady his aim, whilst the
trigger brought down, not a hammer, not even a
flint, but a piece of lighted string into a little pan
of gunpowder communicating with the charge, loaded
with ball.

Near the station was a leafy dell of small trees and
long grass, wherein we very soon saw a hare, sitting
on her haunches with ears erect, making a reconnais-
sance. I nodded to Nimrod to take the first shot ;
off went his hat, and, advancing a step or two, his
prong descended in a moment to earth, aim was taken,
and down came the clumsy trigger, but all too fatal
for Bunny, for she was hit clean in the shoulder, and
immediately fell.

The old huntsman threw down his gun and rushed
immediately to stick a knife into his prey, to ease, I
suppose, his Muhammadan conscience, according to
the dictates of which he would, I fancy, be forbidden
to eat a creature not killed by the letting of blood.

DOWN THE MUZ ART VALLEY. itf

I managed to get an azure Titmouse {Parus cyanus),
one of three specimens of small birds secured, of which
there appeared to be very few, in the locality. On the
day following I was more fortunate, and secured about
eight specimens, including two red-legged Partridges
{Caccabis var. pallescens), a Masked Wagtail {Motacilla
per sonata), a Brambling (Montifringilla Brandti), a
Bullfinch (Carpodacus erytkrinus), a Magpie {Pica
leucopterd), and a red-legged Crow or Chough
(Pyrrhocorax graculus), the last of which, stuffed,
now appears in a glass case before me.

But my greatest ornithological " find " in this neigh-
bourhood was a Golden Eagle {Aquila ckrysaetos),
locally known as a Birkut, the most powerful of birds
trained for hawking, and one that will attack a wolf
or kill a deer. The old huntsman told me that he
possessed three of these, trained, or partly so, and at
the next station brought them for my selection.

One was just then without a tail, and therefore not
so good for my purpose ; a second, trained, was three
years old, and comparatively costly ; whilst the youngest,
though the handsomest bird, was not yet trained, and
therefore to the owner was less valuable. He had
obtained it at Kailek-davan, near the station of that
name, during the previous Ramazan (about the middle
of May). Letting a boy down by a rope, the young
eagle, not then fully fledged, had been taken from the
nest — the only occupant in this instance, though there
are sometimes two, but never more, the old man
said.

Hence the bird was approximately only six months
old. It weighed, nevertheless, 7 lbs., measured a yard
from beak to tail, whilst its outstretched pinions ex-
tended to seven feet. Not a feather appeared to be

298 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

wanting or out of place, and as I looked into its cold,
drabbish-grey eyes, it seemed nothing short of a shame
to think of killing so noble a creature.

But how else was it to be conveyed from the Tian
Shan to South Kensington ? and how was the foul
deed to be done ? To shoot it in cold blood was too
dreadful, and, besides, would partly damage the skin
and plumage.

So I bethought me of the injunction of my naturalist
to beware of letting anything eatable come near his
arsenical soap, because it was " deadly poison." Surely,
then, thought I, a nice little morsel of meat seasoned
with a pinch of arsenical soap will be just what is
wanted.

A tender morsel accordingly was prepared, which
Joseph flavoured under directions, after eating which
I expected to see my beauty ready for post-mortem
honours ; whereas, to our amazement, she stretched
out her neck, and asked for another helping of the
same sort ! A second was given her, and, I think, a
third ; but, as with the Jackdaw of Rheims,

" That which gave rise to no little surprise,
Nobody seemed one penny the worse ! "

After this Mullah Khoja was requested to take his
bird to the roof and there kill her, which he did by
strangulation.

The preparation of the skin of this bird was Joseph's
masterpiece, and it reached the Museum in such good
condition as to receive " honourable mention " from
Mr Bowdler Sharpe, in the ornithological department,
which to me was the more gratifying because, on
looking at the skin a few days after preparation, it
appeared to betray signs of decay under the pinions,
whence it had been necessary in so large a bird to

DOWN THE MUZ ART VALLEY. 299

remove portions of flesh that in a smaller bird are
usually left to shrivel up.

We quitted Tuprak at six on a Saturday morning,
and continued on the west of the river in a southerly
direction, coming in one spot to a little verdure, where
my men reported red-legged partridges.

Of course I was glad, for we had no longer the regal
allowance of a slaughtered sheep per day, but were
dependent upon what the road afforded, and that was
not much ; besides, we were looking forward to making
the morrow a feast day. The men were all alive and
keen to pursue the game.

The only creature who did not seem to share these
sentiments was my horse, who, though he cheerfully
carried my gun, objected to my firing it from his back.
The first time I did so, in the Tekes valley, I expected
to be unseated ; but the sensation was so novel to him
that I think he did not know what to make of it.

Later on he manifested a decided fear of explosions,
and on the present occasion, after I had taken aim,
wheeled round and nearly caused a serious accident ;
for, my finger being on the trigger, the gun went off
painfully close to Joseph's head, who declared, indeed,
that the smoke came in his face. It was not till after
I had dismounted and secured a brace of birds that I
learned what cause I had for thankfulness for so narrow
an escape from homicide.

As we continued south the valley became narrower,
and after a ride of five hours and a half we came along
a level plateau to the end of it, where the entire width
of the gorge was closed by a wall and a fortified
Custom-house station called Muzart-Kurgan. Here we
determined to stay over Sunday.

CHAPTER XX.

FROM MUZART-KURGAN TO AKSU.

Lodging at Muzart- Kurgan, 300.— Objections to Customs examination ;
Advice concerning Chinese officials, 301. — Standing on one's
rights, 302. — Visit of Customs official, 303. — Inspection of Muzart-
Kurgan ; Nimrod's cunning, 304. — Route continued over undulat-
ing tableland ; Dust columns, 305. — Kizil-Bulak ; Route south-
wards over curious geological formation, 306.— Messenger from
Aksu ; Stay at Auvat, and ride to ijam, 307. — Southern view
of Tian Shan, 308. — Khan Tengri, visible 100 miles off, 309. —
Glaciers and crests westwards ; From Jam to Tash-Lianger, 310. —
Death of a horse and dog, 311.— Thermometrical observations
between Kuldja and Aksu ; Arrival of Madamin Bai from Russian
Consul, 312. — A minatory letter, 314. — Escorted into Aksu, 316.

ON arriving at the Custom-house of Muzart-
Kurgan, my party was not all together, and
when the leading detachment was stopped at the gate,
the men said their master had a special letter. There-
upon all were permitted to enter, and I was conducted
at first to what was supposed to be a travellers' room
in an inner court.

It was, however, so dark and dirty and dismal that
I preferred going to the outer yard, on the north side
of which was a number of rooms for serving-men and
cattle, especially the latter, but airy and light, and
affording something to look at from the door. I
directed one of these rooms to be cleaned out, and

FROM MUZART-KURGAN TO AKSU. 301

determined to lodge there among my men and
baggage.

Soon after our arrival and the handing in of my
letter from the Tsian-Tsiun, an official came to say
that my baggage must be searched, for that there was
nothing in the letter to the contrary. To this I
objected, saying that I had been given clearly to
understand that my luggage would be exempt from
examination.

I had learned this so far back as St Petersburg,
where in M. Tching Tchang, the Cltargi d'affaires at
the Chinese Embassy, I found a gentleman speaking
excellent English and better French, who had spent
some years in Paris, and was more Europeanised than
most of his countrymen I have met. He entered
with zest into my proposed travels, and upon my
asking him what I should do, supposing the petty
Chinese officials should be vexatious, he advised me
to threaten complaints to the great men I knew in
Europe.

This was not vain counsel, for I afterwards met an
Englishman who told me that, when travelling in the
Chinese interior, an inferior official told him his bag-
gage must be searched, to which he replied, " Very
well, then I shall complain to the authorities in
Peking " ; whereupon the trouble vanished.

Very different advice was given me by the Russians
in Asia, who to a man said, " Ask nothing ; but de-
mand everything. With small officials, send for them
to call upon you, and not vice versa. Do everything
by force, and never allow a Chinaman to take the least
liberty with you." This was the counsel given me by
General Prjevalsky, and another General in Kuldja.
Alsp I have heard it said by Englishmen living in

302 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

China, and even by the son of a Chinese woman, that
11 the Chinese respect nothing but force."

Let me not fail to record, on the other hand, a
beautiful reply that came well from my heathen friend
Mattie at Suiting. Seeing him disposed to be friendly,
I asked for any hints he could give me for dealing
with the Mandarins in the new country I was about
to visit, whereupon he said, " There is one rule that is
useful all the world over. The fussy, bubbling, noisy
brook is always shallow. Still waters run deep. In
short, be humble ; and apologise to the officials for
not knowing their ceremonies as you should, asking
that your shortcomings may be attributed to ignorance,
not to lack of good intention."

Here, then, was a bundle of modes of address, each
of them, I doubt not, expedient on occasion and in
measure, and the difficulty was at Muzart-Kurgan to
know which to adopt, and how far.

At the first encounter I contented myself with
claiming that my baggage should not be examined ;
and the young official caved in, saying, as he walked
off, that he would copy the Tsian- Tsturis letter, which
having done he returned it, and we were left awhile in
peace.

Presently Joseph came to say that " one greater
man " had arrived, and wished to see my letter, which
Joseph having taken, the official invited him in and
offered tea, asking sundry questions about his master,
and then sent me a pass to show at another Custom-
house farther on.

This was quite a change in the wind, partly attri-
butable perhaps to a talking-to given them, Joseph
afterwards informed me, by Monkey-face and Tor-jee.
" Don't you know," they said, " that this Englishman

FROM MUZART-KURGAN TO AKSU. 303

is a very great man, one who has dined with the Tsian-
Tsiun ? What do you mean, then, by troubling him
about his baggage ? Evidently you don't know
Chinese good manners and proper behaviour to a
foreigner ! "

This lecture was given behind my back, and when,
later in the afternoon, I went to call on the " one
greater man," he showed me into his opium den, and,
with an evident intention to be polite, offered me a
whiff of the detestable pipe which he had seemingly
been smoking — anyway he seemed to be somewhat
excited.

Next morning the head of the station, Chian-da-
loya, called on me, looking ghastly and emaciated
from the use of opium, and slightly hilarious, as if with
his morning pipe. He excused himself for not asking
me to dinner by saying that he did not know how to
prepare a meal to my taste. This was a fortunate
deliverance. He sent, however, a present of four
fowls, one of them an old rooster, as tough as cow-
hide.*

* He gave me the following estimate of distances : —

Udungei to Khan-Yailak . . . 60 /*' or 21 miles.

Khan-Yailak to Tamgha-tash . . 100 ,, 35 ,,

Tamgha-tash to Kailek . . . . 80 „ 28 „

Kailek to Tuprak 40 „ 14 ,,

Tuprak to Muzart-Kurgan . . . 60 ,, 21 ,,

Muzart-Kurgan to Aksu . . . 300 ,, 105 ,,
Kostenko's distances from Muzart Picket (our Shattoo) to Mazar-bash
are : —

Muzart Picket to entrance of Muzart defile . 5 vers/sm
Entrance of defile to summit of Pass . . 50 „
Summit of Pass to Mazar-bash . . . 12 ,,
Mazar-bash to Tamgha-tash . . . . 20 ,,

Total . .87 „ or 58 miles.
And this must be accepted as nearly correct because based, I presume,
on ShepelefFs measurement by chain from Muzart Picket to Mazar-
bash. We took 23 hours from Shattoo to Tamgha-tash, which in my

304 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

After breakfast I mounted to the roof, which was
indescribably filthy, and had a good look round the
station. It was in reality a fortress, and the residence
of the chief of all the pickets up to the glacier.
Shepeleff was informed that there were in garrison
here under Yakub Khan 500 soldiers, 30 at Kailek,
25 at Tamgha-tash, and 30 at Mazar-bash, whilst
farther south there were said to be 20 at Kizil-Bulak,
100 each at Jam, Kent-Shlentchi, and Tash-Lianger,
and 600 at Aksu.

Judging from the size of the station at Muzart-
Kurgan, I should think 500 soldiers would have been
squeezed therein with difficulty ; but it had two, if not
more, quadrangular courts, with many rooms, though
nearly all were now empty, and the military character
of the place, as with all the pickets, appeared quite
departed. But I was less struck with the buildings of
the fort than with the remarkable walls continued from
it (on one side across the Muzart, if L remember
rightly), and, after the fashion of the Great Wall of
China, right up the mountains to the most inaccessible
places for builders to approach.

The authorities were evidently minded that no one
should get by unobserved. Yet I noticed that old
Nimrod managed to elude their demands. So grasp-
ing were they, we were told, that they would make him
pay for bringing in the skin of the hare he had shot.
Accordingly, the old man had entered with my party,
and remained with us an hour or two, as if belonging
to the caravan.

Presently I observed him looking over the parapet
to see whether the coast was clear. His brother

itinerary gives 68 miles ; but here the average of three miles an hour,
over the glacier, is manifestly too high a calculation,

FROM MUZART-RURGAN TO AKSU. 305

Turkis willingly connived at what was going on, but
I was quite innocent of the ruse. Mounting his horse,
he slipped out of the gate and made off to his not
distant home. Later he returned, bringing an eagle,
and on the morrow two more, one of which I pur-
chased, besides giving him an enamelled tea-bottle
like my own but better, as well as other presents
I had promised, and which were richly deserved, for
various services.

On Monday morning at eight, after bidding farewell
to Chian-da-loya, to whom and his underlings I gave
several presents — including the New Testament in
Chinese — we left Muzart- Kurgan, and with it the
Muzart-nin-su, which continues thence in a south-
easterly direction till it joins the Tarim on its way to
Lob-Nor.

Our route to Aksu lay to the south or a little west
of south, across a tableland, unlike anything I have
seen elsewhere, in that its surface was of bare earth
in parallel ridges undulating with the regularity of
low waves of the ocean, presenting, in fact, the appear-
ance of an earthen sea.

I have sometimes heard the spiral dust columns
raised by wind called " sand devils " ; and if there
is any truth in Dr Beale s suggestion that these, or
something of this character, are what Hiuen Tsiang
intended by " dragons/' then the Buddhist pilgrim
might well have noticed them among the terrors of
the locality, for I counted no less than 15 of these
spouts whirling about at the same time, and that on
a not very windy day. It may well be, therefore, that
the passage of this plateau, which took us five hours,
is very trying in windy weather.

At ten o'clock we came to Kizil-Bulak, a small

vol. 1. 20

3o6 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

hamlet of half-a-dozen mud huts, on the first of two
small streams that unite to form the Auvat, and
flow southward for about 90 miles from their con-
fluence, to be absorbed in a sandy desert north of
the Tarim.

Kizil-Bulak was surrounded with cultivation— of
bearded wheat among other crops, but not yet ripe.
Tor-jee, after galloping about with his butterfly net,
brought me a few lepidoptera ; but animal life was here
scarce, and I fear that he got little refreshment for
the inner man by visits to the people, who looked
exceedingly poor.

Our horizon on the south was bounded by low,
pointed hills, at which we arrived at one o'clock ; and
before descending out of sight of the spot whence we
emerged from the mountains, I turned and took a
magnetic bearing of the defile, and found it 3 5 8°, or
about due north, after allowing 20 easterly variation.
On mounting these pointed hills, we had before us, on
the other side, another extraordinary geological forma-
tion, such as I do not remember to have seen
elsewhere.

It consisted of comparatively lofty hills bounding
the horizon on the south, whilst between us and them
were hundreds of miniature mountains on a level
below us, each of these little mountains being perfectly
devoid of verdure and formed of highly-coloured clay,
also furrowed from the top, presumably by the action
of water, to such a degree that there was hardly a
square yard of smooth surface visible. We were
reminded at once of the Muzart glacier, only that the
hummocks and inequalities were now of clay instead
of ice.

Among this mass of hillocks we descended, follow-

FROM MUZART-KURGAN TO AKSU. 307

ing the bed of a wide but shallow stream, which, after
much meandering, at last had to cut its way through
the final counterfort of the Muz-Tag range, and in
so doing laid bare a quantity of coppery earth and
honeycombed rock.

We were picking our way somewhat gingerly, now
by the side of, now across, this stream, as it emerged
from a little gorge to join, if I remember rightly, the
second and wide branch of the Auvat, when, on
turning a corner, we met a Turki horseman, who
addressed my people, and turned out to be a mes-
senger, sent three days since from Aksu, by the
native Russian Aksakal, to meet me with a present
of fruit. This was deposited at the station a few
hundred yards distant, called Awat, as pronounced,
or, as it appears on the Russian map, Auvat.

Now I had feasted the previous day on partridges
and the tough rooster of Chian-da-loya, but the wild
apricots of Chapchal had never recurred. Imagine,
then, our delight when, on reaching the station at four
o' clock, we there found a whole sieveful of the most
luscious nectarines, two sieves of apples, and a sack-
ful of melons, to say nothing of a sieve of peaches
spoiled through keeping.

As in the case of Tuprak, Auvat does not appear to
have had a garrison in the time of Yakub Khan, but
the two places served as residences for men attending
to the administration of the picket postal service, and
to caravans. The stations at both places were of
similar construction.

We left Auvat at seven next morning. A few
minutes after starting we emerged from the mountains
at what might be called the end of the Muzart break
or defile, which we had entered at Shattoo. The

308 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

entire length Kostenko reckons at about ioo miles,
and since the northern slope measures only 33 miles,
he naturally argues that the southern is less steep,
which is precisely what we found it. From Auvat,
beyond the plain to the south, we could see a clump
of trees, towards which we rode across another bare
flat and stony expanse, but not furrowed in this
instance with waves.

After crossing this desert, or chul, for four hours, we
approached the oasis of Jam, a village of 130 houses,
and surrounded with cultivation ; where, on what
would be with us " the village green," and beneath
shady trees, we rested for an hour. We were now
nearly 30 miles from the spot whence we emerged
from the mountains, and had here perhaps our grand-
est distant view of the southern range of the Tian
Shan. Beginning as far east as the town of Kurla,
and running west, the range is first known, south of
the Yulduz basin, as Kok-Teke ; then as the Eshik-
bashi ; beyond which follow the Khalik-Tau and the
Muzart Mountains, the last of which we had just
crossed.

A little west of Muzart rises the dominant mass of
the whole Tian Shan system, known as the Khan
Tengri group, which, though exceeded in height, as
Reclus remarks, by some of the Trans -Alai peaks,
yet contains a greater number of snowy crests,
glaciers, and streams flowing to the four points of
the compass.

Here the monarch of the mountains, known as
Khan Tengri, raises his head in lofty grandeur, far
above the surrounding peaks, to an altitude, according
to my Russian map, of 24,000 feet, though Walker's
map (probably in error, since his information on this

FROM MUZART-KURGAN TO AKSU. 309

part of the country is presumably taken from Russian
sources) gives only 21,000 feet*

' Our distance at Jam from the peak being, according
to my Russian map, about 80 miles, we could, of
course, distinguish very little. I say "of course" in
reference to an individual peak ; for not only could we
see the outline of the range from Jam, but a few days
afterwards we did so from Sai-Aryk, where on a clear
morning my attention was called to the appearance of
the Tian Shan, and a suggestion made as to why they
were called "The Heavenly Mountains."

Above the range was the deep blue sky, and an
azure mist hid its base, so that its snowy peaks floated
like clouds in mid-air. I could scarcely believe that
the unaided eye could have seen so far, and I -tried to
obtain a photograph, but in vain, for though the picture
gives well enough the details of the foreground, nothing
can be seen of the celestial mountains, which the map
shows to have been 1 10 miles off.f

The only souvenirs that I possess of the Khan
Tengri Mountains are photographs of two sketches by
a Russian artist of two gorges through which flow the
upper waters of the rivers Kokjar and Karkara. These
streams, which appear to be very rapid, push their
way through extremely rugged rocks, indicated by

* According to ShepelefPs calculation, made by compass from one of
the northern elevations of the Muz-Tag range, about four miles from
the entrance to the Muzart defile, he found the position of Khan Tengri
to be about 15 miles south and 26 west of the Muzart Pass.

t The snow-line in this portion of the Tian Shan is 15,000 feet above
the sea. In the northern ramifications of the system, as the Jungar
Ala-Tau, it is about 10,000 feet ; on the 43rd parallel of latitude
generally, 1 1,000 feet ; and in the Alai, Turkistan, and Zarafshan
groups, more than 14,000 on the northern slopes; whilst still farther
south, in the Hissar groups and the Mountains of the Pamir, it is found
at a height of upwards of 15,000 feet,

3io CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Mushketoff's map to be of the Tertiary system, and so
make their way over, one or both of them, into the
Charin.

West of the Muzart is a world of crests and glaciers.
Some of the latter, especially that of the source of the
Sary-jassy, a tributary of the Tarim, are comparable,
Reclus says, in length to the Aletsch glacier in the
Valais Alps, and this I am told is about 15 miles long.

From the Muzart to the western extremity of the
Sary-jassy Mountains the snowy range for 60 miles
has a mean elevation of upwards of 16,500 feet, all the
peaks overtopping Mont Blanc by at least 3,000 feet.

Still farther west the range, under the name of Kok-
shaal, maintains a mean altitude of more than 1 5,ooofeet,
with summits rising 2,000 feet higher, and so continues
in a south-westerly direction till it joins the Pamirs.

After reposing at Jam we continued our journey,
crossing the river Jai-tugrak-ustang, which after a
course of nearly 100 miles runs into the sandy waste
alluded to on the north bank of the Tarim. Other
streams which we crossed do not run so far even as
that, but are quickly exhausted by irrigation or evapo-
ration near the localities where they rise. Several
aquatic birds were flying about the river at Jam, and my
gun brought me specimens which Tor-jee was ready
to go through fire and water to pick up.

The next inhabited point arrived at was Tash-
Lianger, to the suburbs of which, southwards, we were
brought to spend the night in a house in a garden of
melons. My room was small, but comfortably fur-
nished with carpets and quilts, the spare number of
which appeared to indicate an owner in easy circum-
stances ; but the room had the drawback of being
lighted only through a hole in the roof.

FROM MUZART-KURGAN TO AKSU, 311

The caravan arrived at two o'clock, after a march of
seven hours, and had to report a death in the family.
Joseph had come to me at Jam to say that the horse
I have already alluded to at Kuldja as being weak was
ill, and would eat no barley. A consultation of horse-
doctors was held, whereupon both Osman and Monkey-
face pronounced that the sick animal's nose must be
cut to let blood, which was accordingly done, but not
to much purpose ; for after crossing a long stretch of
desert in the stifling plain north of Jam the poor
creature dropped.

The old mullah was left by its side to see if it would
recover, and if not to hear its dying speech and con-
fession, which were, I believe, to the effect that the
heat of the plains, following on the toils of the glacier,
had proved too much for it — a result reminding one of
Shepeleff's experience on the glacier with his horses,
or rather mares, which all prematurely cast their
young.

Nor was this our only loss. Our dog " Kuldja,"
purchased at Chapchal, was led by a string up the Tekes
valley, lest he should go back to his Kalmuk home,
and he ran well at first. By the time we reached the
Muzart stream he had discovered that his new owner
could feed him quite as well, to say the least, as his old
one, and he followed without being led.

He was, however, very timid, and appeared to
consider no one as a friend but Joseph and myself.
When, therefore, at Toghri-su, where he arrived tired,
he was suddenly roused out of a snooze by a horrid
cry some of the men made in playing, he jumped up,
and, seeing neither of his friends, bolted off to such a
distance in the mountains that we feared he was lost.
Allured back by Joseph, he got across the glacier

312

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

pretty well, though he had to be carried, as I have said,
over the Southern Muzart. But when we exchanged
the cool air of the mountains for the heat of the plains,
where the maximum temperature at night was 99°,* he
too, like the horse, succumbed.

Meanwhile the messenger who had brought me the
fruit went back from Jam to herald my approach to
his master, Madamin Bai, Russianised into Madamin
Alim Baieff, who during the night came out from
Aksu, bringing delicious grapes and other fruit.

He had received a letter, he said, from M. Petro-
vosky, the Russian Consul at Kashgar, asking him to
help me, and he was come out to do us honour.
Accordingly, he and his attendants set out with our

* Record of Thermometrical Observations between Kuldja
and Aksu.

Date.

Locality.

Hour, i

At time of
Reading.

Maximum ft Minimum
during Night.

188S

July 27

Kuldja, in tent

4.15 a.m.

—

„ 28

Ghaljat „

4.0 „

—

>, 29

Chapchal gorge, in tent ...

9.0 „

—

»» »>

?» 'i »>

6.30 p.m.

—

„ 30

>» 11 1.

4.30 a.m.

—

i» »>

Booghru „

6.0 p.m.

• > 31

»> j»

5.0 a.m.

Aug. 1

Khanakai „

6.0 „

„ 2

., v ...

4.0 „

>, 3

Geelan „

«o •.

>. 4

Tekes Picket ., ...

50 „

>. 5

Shattoo ,.

90 »

»» >»

»» j?

5.0 p.m.

80 (during
the day)

—

„ 6

11 11 ••■

5.0 a.m.

„ 7

Udungei „

4-3° »

„ 8

Toghri-su „ ...

30 „

„ 9

Tamgha-tash „

—

i. i°

Kailek, window-sill

—

m 11

Tuprak, verandah

5.0 a.m.
8.0 ,,

„ 12

Muzart-Kurgan,\vindow-sil)

>. 13

M 11 »>

5-3° »

„ 14

Auvat „

5-30 ..

» 15

Tash-Lianger, door-sill...

ti 16

Aksu, verandah

FROM MUZART-KURGAN TO AKSU.

caravan at seven o clock, and in two hours we ap-
proached some houses at a place they called Shlengir,
where, to my surprise, was awaiting me a deputation
of a dozen white-turbaned Afghans and Andijanis, all
of them mounted and ready to escort us into Aksu.*
But before proceeding we had to turn aside for a

* Of distances between Muzart-Kurgan and Aksu I have four
estimates.

i. Chian-da-loya gave it as 300 //, or 104 miles.

2. The Russian Aksakal, Madamin Bai, gave it : —

Muzart-Kurgan to Auvat 5 task or farsang.

Auvattojam 4 ,, ,,

Jam to Liaoger 1 ,, ,,

Lianger to Shlengir 1 ,, ,,

Shlengir to Aksu 2 ,, . ,,

13 task, or (at 20 /*' to
the tosh) 260 /*, or 90
miles.

3. Kostenko?s (or rather ShepelefF s) distances, supplied from native
information, are : —

Tamgha-tash to Kailek 12 versts.

Kailek to Tuprak 15 „

Tuprak to Muzart-Kurgan 32 „

59 versts, or 29 miles.

(We took from Tamgha-tash to Muzart-Kurgan 21 hours, or, at three
miles an hour, 63 miles, which I think to be nearer the mark. )

Muzart-Kurgan to Kizil-Bulak
Kizil-Bulak to Auvat .
Auvat to Jam ....
Jam to Kent-Shlentchi .
Kent-Shlentchi to Tash-Lianger Serai
Tash-Lianger to Aksu .

14 versts.
12

35
20
18
22

121 versts, or 81 miles.

4. We took from Muzart-Kurgan to Aksu 19 hours, or 57 miles. Thus
Kostenko's distance from Muzart Picket (Shattoo) to Aksu is 177 miles,
and ours 63 hours, or 189 miles.

Finally, Kostenko's distance from Kuldja to Aksu is 311 miles, and
ours 117 hours of travel, or 351 miles.

3H CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

feast they had prepared of a slaughtered sheep, under
shady trees, near sparkling rills, with further abund-
ance of the fruit of the land. Here we quaffed tea as
we lay on carpets, and those who had not breakfasted
early, as I had already done, did ample justice to the
viands. Conversation also flowed apace, and if any
one was not at his ease, perhaps it was Osman Bai, for
Madam in Bai was one of his chief creditors, and my
caravan bashi was walking like a lamb into the mouth
of the lion.

I had a letter, however, to Madamin Bai containing
some very straight hints on this subject from the
Consulate at Kuldja. He was "to give full assistance
to the bearer of this letter, to find for him a suitable
lodging in the town, or perhaps in his own house " (the
Sarts, I heard, had inns at Aksu, but not the Chinese
or Russians), " also to seek for Dr Lansdell a trust-
worthy arbakesh or carter at moderate cost, and on
no account, under pain of expulsion, or perhaps exile,
to hinder Osman Bai, the bearer's caravan bashi, since
the Russian Government had given to Dr Lansdell full
protection."

I thought Osman Bai looked rather sheepish when
he went up to shake hands with a crowd of his old
acquaintances from Aksu, where, I suppose, he had
long been "wanted," but for the present all was peace.

I was considerably at a loss to know what could be
the meaning of all this unexpected fuss made about me
by the Afghan traders of the town, and on broaching
the subject they said they had similarly gone out, not
long before, to meet two others of my countrymen —
namely, Mr Carey and Lieutenant Younghusband —
each of whom they said had stayed in Aksu for three
days, Colonel Bell also having stayed there.

316 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

The action of the Turkis, who were Russian sub-
jects, was not so hard to understand, and they informed
me that for a traveller to come, heralded by two
Russian Consuls, from Kashgar and Kuldja, was an
event that did not happen twice in a century, and they
therefore felt bound to do for me all they could.

Accordingly, after the feast, they all formed, or
wished to form, in procession before me, which had
the not trifling inconvenience of covering me with a
cloud of dust, from which I insisted upon escaping,
and riding at the head of the force. In this fashion
we continued for two hours, Joseph talking hard with
the column of horsemen, who had fifty questions to
ask concerning his master, and all he intended to do.

Thus we approached the enormous cemeteries on
the top of the bluff that overhangs Aksu. Having
descended this bluff, our company was conducted
through the streets between astonished and gaping
crowds to the house of Madamin Bai.

CHAPTER XXI.

CHINESE TURKISTAN.

Chinese Turkistan ; its boundaries and varying names, 318. — The Sin
Kiang, or New Frontier ; its eastern boundary and latest carto-
graphy, 319. — Its dimensions, mountains, rivers, and lakes, 320. —
Surface and communications, 322.— -The country described as
approached from Peking by northern route, and by southern route,
to Hami, 323. — Hami ; its history, European visitors, and present
condition, 326. — Roads from Hami to Kobdo, Barkul, andGuchen,
329. — Urumtsi ; its history and situation as headquarters town of the
Sin Kiang, 330. — Route vid Toksun to Pishan and Turfan, 333. —
History of Turfan ; its sacred mountain and latest European
visitors, 334. — Karashar and its Kalmuks, 337. — Kurla, Kuchar,
and Bai, 338.

I HAVE glanced already at those portions of extra-
-mural China known as Manchuria, Mongolia, and
Sungaria. I purpose now to treat of that portion of
Chinese Central Asia which consists of a horseshoe
depression bounded by the Tian Shan, Kuen Lun, and
Pamir Mountains on the north, south, and west respec-
tively, but lying open to the Gobi desert on the east.

The name of this region has varied much and often
among Europeans, Mongols, Turks, and Chinese.
Along the south of the valley ran the great "silk
route" 2,000 years ago, but without bequeathing to
us any particular name for this portion of the " land
of the Seres." In the first map of the region, made
by Renat, the word "Cottoner" figures conspicuously,

318 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

with the information that the people of Khotan were
then subject to the Kalmuks ; but R6clus observes that
" the kingdom of Khotan " fell into disuse after the
city of that name had ceased to be the capital. A
century ago the territory was thought to be a part
of the vast " plateau of Tartary," then supposed to
occupy the interior of the continent, whilst in some
maps of that period it figured as " Little Bokhara."
Twenty years ago, during the insurrection of Yakub
Khan, it was called " Kashgaria," which was for a time
its current name in Europe ; but the Turki natives
spoke of the country as Alti-shahr (or six cities), an
expression afterwards replaced by Jiti-shahr (or seven
cities). Other two names, still in vogue and applicable,
are Eastern Turkistan — to distinguish it from the
land of the Turks west of the Tian Shan — and
Chinese Turkistan, which I prefer, as differentiating
it from Russian Turkistan, and what some writers
have called Afghan Turkistan.

The Chinese appear to have formerly spoken of the
country in general as part of Hi in its widest sense,
and more particularly under the appellation of Tian
Shan Nan-lu, or Southern Tian Shan route, as opposed
to the Tian Shan Pe-lu, or Northern Tian Shan route
of Sungaria ; but on the recovery of the country from
Yakub Khan, a new name was given to the territory,
including Sungaria and Chinese Turkistan. Accord-
ingly, when, in 1882, I received from the Chinese Lega-
tion a letter of commendation, it was said to be to
the Governor-General of Sin Kiang, or the New Pro-
vince, or Frontier.

It is not easy to get authorised information of the
exact limits of Sin Kiang eastwards. Old maps repre-
sent Kansu, the north-west province of China proper,

CHINESE TURKISTAN. 319

as projecting like a tongue across the Gobi, and con-
tinuing north of the Tian Shan to the frontier. The
last edition of Stanford's map of Asia, recently pub-
lished, does away with this " tongue " altogether, and
draws the eastern boundary of the Sin Kiang, beginning
at the Altyn Tagh Mountains, midway between Lob-
Nor and Sachu, to the Kuruk Tagh hills, about 100
miles north of that town, and then running eastwards
along a continuation of these hills, called Chukum
Shan, to the meridian of Kan-chow. Further, it
follows the old border of Kansu without-the-wall,
proceeding north-westwards to the hills north of
Barkul ; then it strikes northwards to the Great Altai
chain, which forms the northern watershed of the
Black Irtish, and runs along that chain to the Russian
frontier. Mr Littledale tells me, however, that, when
he was camping in Sungaria, a Chinese official, from
Chuguchak, on his way to Peking, told him that the
Black Irtish is the frontier between the Chuguchak
and Kobdo divisions. Accordingly, the dividing line
in this region should probably be drawn along the Upper
Irtish and Urungu rivers, instead of along the crest of
the Great Altai chain.

I happen to know that this new piece of map-making
is based on information given by a recent traveller, and
that the frontier thus indicated must be regarded as
delimited by the plenipotentiaries of the map-room,
rather than by the Chinese Government, from whose
representatives in London I could get no detailed in-
formation. I believe Stanford's map, however, to be
accurate, the south-eastern border of Chinese Turkistan
having the Gobi on the east, and on the south a portion
of Kansu beyond-the-wall. Thus it appears that the
new province of Sin Kiang takes in the whole of what

320 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

I have called Sungaria, the Hi valley, the part of Kansu
formerly north of the Gobi, and the depression we are
now speaking of, which last I shall continue to call
Chinese Turkistan. Mr Bolton (geographer to Mr
Stanford), after careful calculation, gives me the area
of the Sin Kiang as 611,840, or, say, 612,000 square
miles — the size, that is, of France, Austria, and the
British possessions in Europe.

Taking the extreme length of Chinese Turkistan on
the 40th parallel as lying between the 74th and 100th
meridians, it stretches about 1,500 miles from west to
east ; whilst from the Muzart Pass to the 36th parallel
— the widest part from north to south — the 81st meri-
dian measures 400 miles. Reclus estimates the area
of Chinese Turkistan at 480,000, the Encyclopedia
Britannica at 465,000 square miles — that is, about the
size of France and Austria together.

There is probably no other valley in the world of
equal extent possessing such an environment of lofty
mountains of the first rank. Nevertheless, the depres-
sion itself is everywhere flat, unless account be taken
of a ridge of hills called Mazar Tagh, north of Khotan,
and ah offshoot of the southern range of the Tian Shan,
called, near Karashar, Kuruk Tagh, which continues
east to Kansu. But, though flat, the valley is not
loto, but rather a high plain or plateau, varying from
3,250 feet above the sea-level at Lob- Nor to about
4,500 feet west and east at Kashgar and Ngansi.

Into this valley the encircling mountains pour
numerous streams, not all of which reach the open
plain. Enough, however, are gathered together to
develop a considerable water system, the end of which
is Lake Lob. The principal river is the Tarim, and
hence the depression is sometimes called the Tarim

CHINESE TURK1STAN. 321

valley or basin. This river is made up westward
by the confluence of the Kashgar-daria and Yarkand-
daria, and these give their names to towns through
which they pass. After this, flowing east, the Tarim
is joined by the Khotan river from the south, and a
smaller stream, the Aksu, from the north, and flows
onwards to Lob-Nor. Just before reaching that lake
it receives another affluent from the south, called the
Cherchen-daria, the only one of the Kuen Lun torrents,
east of Khotan, that reaches the central depression.
One more stream that tries to do so from farther east
is the Bulundzir, the head-waters of which rise in the
Nan Shan, or continuation of the Altyn Tagh eastwards,
and after a total course of 300 miles, 200 of which is
westwards towards Lob, the river is lost in the desert
lake of Khala-chi. Besides these lakes may be men-
tioned three more to the north-west of Lob, near the
skirts of the Tian Shan — namely, Bagratsh-Kul, Sari-
Kamish, and Baba-Kul — as well as a salt lake or marsh
near Barkul ; whilst away towards Kansu are Lakes
Khua-khaitsi (spotted lake) and Alak-chi, into which
run small streams from the Nan Shan.

From the foregoing sketch of the hydrography of
the country it will be readily understood that oases
of verdure and fertility are found only along the
skirts of the mountains, and even then in such places
alone as are watered by descending streams. Hence
the greater part of Chinese Turkistan is barren desert.
Between Lob-Nor and the river Khotan stretches the
vast Tarim desert, and between that and the Kuen
Lun lies the desert — nearly as large as Great Britain
— of Takla Makan. East of Lob-Nor are the sands
of Kum Tagh, sometimes regarded as part of the
Gobi, by which name, however, Reclus says the desert

vol. 1. 21

322 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

is unknown in Chinese Turkistan. The Gobi may
therefore with greater propriety be said to begin
somewhat farther east.

The lofty mountains shutting in the valley on three
sides suggest its inaccessibility by ordinary roads from
the north, west, or south ; but from the east there is
a road, practicable for carts, which leaves the western
end of the Great Wall near Su-chow, and crosses the
desert to the eastern extremity of the Tian Shan
Mountains at Hami. Here the road bifurcates. The
northern branch continues through Barkul, Urumtsi,
and the towns on the northern slope of the mountains
to Sungaria and Kuldja; the southern continues en-
tirely round the Tarim valley, passing successively
through the towns of Pishan, Turfan, Karashar,
Kuchar, Aksu, Kashgar, Yengi Hissar, Yarkand,
Khotan, and Keria. Beyond this point there was
in ancient times a route passing south of Lob-Nor,
probably over an easy pass of the Altyn Tagh, to
Su-chow, but this route is now disused.

Besides the cart-road from the east, there are several
bridle-paths whereby the valley can be approached
from the other points of the compass. On the north
Kuropatkin enumerates no less than 13 passes used
by the traders crossing the Tian Shan and the Alai,
all except one practicable in summer, whilst that over
the Terek-davan, or " Poplar Pass," is open throughout
the year. South of this, over the Pamirs, is a path
connecting Badakshan with Yengi Hissar ; whilst the
Kuen Lun is crossed by paths converging on Yar-
kand; by others approaching Khotan and Keria (the
last through Polu) ; and, finally, a little-known track
northward from Lassa, after crossing the Kuen Lun
and Altyn Tagh, descends to Lob-Nor.

CHINESE TURKISTAN. 323

I have mentioned already the advice given me be-
fore leaving England, that I should approach Chinese
Turkistan from Peking ; and for purposes of description
I shall now do so. Regarding Hami as the first town
to be approached, the traveller from the Chinese capital
has a choice between two routes,— one called the Ala-
shan route outside the Great Wall, occupying 1 2 days,
to Kwei-hwa-cheng, and then by camels across the
desert ; the other route by a cart-road through Shansi,
Shensi, and Kansu to the end of the Wall at Su-chow,
and then across to Hami — a journey of 2,162 miles
in 68 days.

By the Ala-shan route the traveller from Peking
passes on the second day through the inner branch
of the Great Wall at the Nankow Pass, and on the
fourth day reaches the mountain frontier at Kalgan
(whence start the caravans to Urga and Kiakhta),
where is a station of American missionaries. Turning
west from this route, he passes through the outer wall
to a district of grassy steppes and Mongol tents,
and in eight days reaches Kuei-hwa-cheng, or Kuku-
Khoto. Here is a station of the China Inland
Mission, where the traveller will receive a welcome.

From Kuei-hwa-cheng is a route to Uliassutai in
the north-west, and another of 67 days to Barkul.
By this second route our traveller passes, west of
the former, along the skirts of the Hurka Hills to
the farthest offshoots of the Great Altai Mountains,
and then turns southwards, and circumvents the eastern
end of the Tian Shan spurs, to Hami. The only
Englishman who has travelled by this route to Hami
is Captain Younghusband, who rode the distance of
1,255 miles from Kuei-hwa-cheng in 70 days.

The cart-road or southern route is easier, though

3*4 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

somewhat longer. The first 12 stages from Peking
take the traveller through Pau-ting (Pao-ting-fu), the
capital of Chi-li, across its alluvial plains, and over
the hills separating it from the next province, before
descending to Tai-yuen, the capital of Shansi. This
is a town of some 50,000 inhabitants, where are
stations of the China Inland Mission, a Baptist
Mission, and a Roman bishop and cathedral, the
last claiming to have 600 adherents in the city and
18,000 in Shansi.

The next 13 stages bring the traveller to Singan,
the capital of Shensi, founded B.C. n 22, and for 2,000
years the capital of China. Its population is stated
to be 1,000,000, including 50,000 Muhammadans. It
is the most populous of Chinese cities after Peking
and Canton. Another 12 stages cover the journey
from Singan to Lan-chow, over a hilly road at from
6,000 to 7,000 feet in altitude, through a depopulated
country, with villages destroyed during the 17 years
of Muhammadan rebellion. Lan-chow is said to have
40,000 houses. The Roman Catholics in the city
number 80, in the neighbourhood 200, and in the
province of Kansu 2,400. The China Inland Mission
also maintains a station here.

From Lan-chow extends, in a north-westerly direction,
for some hundreds of miles, but sometimes no more
than a few miles wide, a remarkable depression or
channel, between the Kuen Lun Mountains on the
west, and the sandy plain of the Gobi on the east.
This lengthy portion of country throughout is level and
has. much fertile ground, its western end being the
outlet whence to cross Mongolia to Central Asia.
Along this channel from Lan-chow are 16 stages
through Liang-chow and Kan-chow to Su-chow.

CHINESE TURKISTAN. 325

Liang-chow is a walled town of from 20,000 to 30,000
inhabitants, and it is the advanced post in this direction
of the China Inland Mission, Here, too, is a Lazarite
bishopric, established in 1879, with adherents round
the city, it is said, of 600 persons, and with stations at
Kan-chow and along the Yellow River, in addition to
the Mission I have previously referred to at Kuldja.

Formerly the administration of the Kansu province
extended a variable distance along the Pe-lu and
Nan-lu routes, with the towns settled on them ; but
now the traveller passes out of Kansu about 70 miles
north of Ansi-fan at Shing-shing-she, and comes to
the first halting-place in the Sin Kiang province at
Iswa Chenza.

The journey from Su-chow to Hami is accomplished
in 15 stages. At 18 miles from Su-chow is Kia-yu-
kuan, a walled town and fortress standing in the
channel referred to on a neck of land, and guarding
the north-west entrance into the Empire, in much the
same fashion, to judge from a sketch I have seen, that
the Muzart- Kurgan, with its walls, stretches across the
valley leading to the Ice Pass. The Great Wall circles
round Kia-yu-kuan across the neck, and ends about
ten miles distant. Six stages from Su-chow bring the
traveller to Ansi-fan, or Ngansi, the residence of a
Tautai, but a poor place of 400 or 500 houses, where
stores are laid in for crossing the Shamo, or Gobi,
which for 200 miles along the trade route is almost
wholly desert. There are, however, all along the way
stations consisting of a few huts and inns kept by
Chinese ; and water, though sometimes brackish, is
plentiful everywhere. The road is of two cart-ruts
six inches deep, generally over sandy gravel and some-
times over rock. The desert ceases on the last stage

326 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

but one ; and the last stage, over a reedy grass prairie,
brings the traveller to Hami.

Hami enjoys the respectable distinction of dating
back to the first century, when, in a.d. 73, the Chinese
took I-wu-lu, as it is first called, from the Hiung-nu,
the ancient inhabitants of Mongolia, and established
there military colonies. Some centuries later the oasis
was occupied by Turkish tribes, but was again sub-
jected by China, and under the T'ang dynasty of the
seventy and eighth centuries its name was changed
to I -chow. In the eleventh and twelfth centuries it
belonged to the Uigurs, to whom probably Marco Polo
alludes when he speaks of the inhabitants as idolaters
" with a peculiar language." He calls the place by the
Turkish name of Camul, or Kamul, changed by the
Mongols to Khamil, or Khami. The Chinese annals
mention that in 1289 ^e people of Ko-mi-li were
afflicted with famine, and the Chinese Emperor ordered
corn to be sent to them from Kansu.

The first European, probably, to come here was
Marignolli in 1342, who stayed some time, and baptised
a number of the natives. In 1420, when Shah Rukh's
embassy passed through, they found a fine mosque
and convent of dervishes side by side with a. Buddhist
temple. Before this the Ming Emperor Hung-wuhad
obtained the allegiance of the Uigurs, and received
from the ruler of Hami, in 1403, a tribute of 190
horses ; and, in addition, the Chinese Government
bought from the same source 4,710 horses. In 1406
a Chinese military station was established in the place.
About 1472 Sultan Ali of Turfan captured and plun-
dered the city, which for the next 40 years was
alternately in the possession of the Chinese and
Turfanese, till in 1513 the Sultan established his rule.

CHINESE TURKISTAN. 327

Hami depended on Turfan down to 1696, when the
chief of Hami, Beg Abdullah, acknowledged the supre-
macy of the Emperor Kang-hi, of the present dynasty.
In 1757 Hami was again administered from Kansu.

The next European traveller at Hami after Marig-
nolli was Benedict Goes, in 1605. About a century
later Jesuit missionaries, by order of the Emperor
Kang-hi, determined by astronomical observations the
position of the place. From this date for a century and
a half these regions were closed against Europeans.
In 1873 appeared in the Proceedings of the Russian
Geographical Society an account of Hami, compiled
by M. Uspensky from little-known Chinese sources.
The expedition of Sosnovsky travelled through Hami
in 1875, as also did Potanin in 1877, and Prjevalsky,
who spent five days there in 1879. No Englishman,
however, seems to have visited Hami till Mr Carey's
caravan arrived in 1886, to be followed next year by
Colonel Bell and Captain Younghusband.

Prjevalsky gives the oasis as from eight to ten miles
from east to west, and a little more from north to
south. He describes the fertile soil as of clay and
sand, producing wheat, millet, barley, maize, water-
melons, pumpkins, grapes, and melons— the last being
famous, and sent sometimes so far as Peking. The
poppy also is grown. The present Hami is described
as consisting of three quarters, two being Chinese and
one Muhammadan, the last called Khamil. Khamil
was founded 300 years ago. Of the Chinese quarters,
Low-chen (Lao-cheng, old town) is only about 180
years old, and Sin-cheng (new town) is quite modern.

Coming from the south, Sin-cheng is first approached.
It has walls of mud 20 feet high, a top width or
terre-plein of 20 feet, with a loopholed parapet, and is

328 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

regarded by the Chinese as a fortress. The deep
moat is ten feet broad, and at the east and south
gateways are ramps leading to the ramparts, the
interior being taken up chiefly by Government offices,
yamens, and barracks. There are said to be 1,000
Hunan soldiers in garrison. In Low-chen are 1,000
Chinese families, and in the Muhammadan town a
fourth of that number. The shops in Low-chen are
well stocked with goods, mostly Russian.

The Muhammadan city Khamil lies one mile to the
south-west of Sin-cheng, the intervening space being
occupied with gardens. It is surrounded by a dilapi-
dated mud wall about 25 feet high, and inside are a
number of huts built round inclosed yards. The
kings of Hami lie under a mausoleum, the dome of
which is covered with green-coloured tiles, but of
poor quality and appearance. The tombs are elevated
oblong structures. In addition to these, there are
many buildings half-destroyed by war. Nevertheless,
the town, shaded by large trees, is said to have a clean
and comfortable appearance.

In the bazaar everything is dear except flour, which
costs 4s. 6d. for 133 lbs. A sheep costs about the
same ; a draught pony from 30^. to 45^. ; a cow 50*. ;
and a camel from £4 to ^5 ; whilst beans or split
peas for horses cost 3s. 6d. per cwt. The town is well
supplied with coal ; also firewood from the Tian Shan,
30 miles distant. Russian merchants established
themselves here in 1881. They receive their goods
from Moscow, Nijni-Novgorod, Omsk, and Tomsk
two or three times a year, via Biisk and Kobdo,
employing their own camels to bring cottons, hard-
ware, sugar, soaps, candles, lamps, clocks, matches,
vodka, and wines. All the outlying stations of China in

CHINESE TURKISTAN. 329

this direction are said to be supplied by the Russians,
there being three Russian shops at Kobdo, and at Ulias-
sutai four; but nothing is exported from Hami to Russia.

The Chinese soldiers at Hami are reported to be
unbearably impertinent and oppressive, sometimes
taking what they want from the stores at their own
price. Colonel Bell says the Chinese are behaving
most foolishly in this respect, giving no protection or
justice even to the Russian merchants. He himself
met with great incivility here from the mandarins.

From Hami to Kobdo and Uliassutai there are
camel tracks of 22 and 23 stages respectively, the
route to Kuldja being 800 miles, and passing through
Barkul, Guchen, and Urumtsi. Barkul is reached in
three days, crossing the Tian Shan by its most easterly
pass — an easy one, with an altitude of 9,000 feet.
The road leads up a stony ravine, 150 yards wide,
over indurated shales, the highest slopes of which are
clothed with pine, larch, and juniper. The descent is
steep, amidst clay hills, to an exceedingly rich valley,
and so onwards to the Chinese lake Pa-li-kul, or
Barkul, which is 5,300 feet above sea-level.

Barkul comprises both a Manchu and a Chinese
city, the former occupied by 1,000 Manchu and 1,000
Chebing soldiers, or local militia. This is the garrison
on paper ; what it may be in reality is quite another
matter. In the city are 1,100 Chinese families; 70
Dungans, or Chinese Muhammadans; but no Chentu, or
Turks. The soldiers are under a Chen-shi-ting. The
climate differs from that of Hami because on the north
of the mountains rain frequently falls. The extent of
cultivated land about Barkul is small, but must once
have been much greater, to judge from the size of the
ruined villages. The soil is very rich.

330 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Cart-roads lead from Barkul northward to Uliassutai,
and over the hills southward to Pishan and Turfan, whilst
westward the road continues across the Lake Pa-li-kul
basin and over hills branching out from the Tian
Shan, with pasture and occasional ruined hamlets. At
the ninth stage, and distant 240 miles from Hami, is
Guchen, razed to the ground during the last rebellion.
It is now a small place of trade occupied by 1,000
Chinese, 25 Manchu, and 40 Turki families, with a
garrison of 500 Hunan braves and 500 local militia.
The bullocks of the country are fine and numerous.
In Guchen there are 100 shops. English cottons
penetrate here from Tientsin, via Kwei-hwa-cheng
and Han-kow, and, though dearer than Russian goods,
are preferred by the Chinese as of superior quality.
American cottons are also in good repute.

Four stages farther — 408 miles from Hami — is
Urumtsi. According to Klaproth, this place is the
same as Pei-t'ing of the T'ang period. Thus it carries
us back to the seventh century, when this district,
with that of Barkul, became dependent (according to
one Chinese source) on the Government of Kansu, till
the Uigurs, forsaking their homes on the banks of the
Orkhan, Tola, and Selenga, settled here, and called
the place Bishbalik, which signifies, in Turkish, the
" Pentapolis," or five cities ; whence the country round
was sometimes called Bishbali.

Thus, from the Si-pei-ti, or Mongol-Chinese
mediaeval map, we find that in 1278 Ba-sa-cha-li re-
ceived a tiger tablet, investing him with authority to
direct the military post-stations in Bie-shi-ba-li. In
1280 a commander of 10,000 was sent to guard the
frontier at Bie-shi-ba-li. In the next year Prince
A-dji-ghi requested that 30 new post-stations might

CHINESE TURKISTAN. 331

be established between the town and the mountains ;
and in 1284 he asked that two cities, lapsed to Khotan,
might be restored to Bishbalik. In 1287 a Chinese
military colony was established in the place.

The Ming Shi speaks of Bie-shi-ba-li as a great
empire, bordered on the south by Khotan, north by the
Oirati, west by Samarkand, and east by Karakhojo,
near Turfan. This empire was that of the Jetes
or Getes of Muhammadan authors, and the country
was known in the west also as Moghulistan (not to be
confounded with the country of the true Mongols,
eastward). Moghulistan was ravaged by Timur in
1389. In 141 8 the name of the kingdom was changed
to I-li-ba-li, and its rulers sent tribute to China for
some years afterwards. The Ming Geography describes
the people of I-li-ba-li as nomads, living in tents, of
fierce appearance, subsisting on flesh and koumiss, and
dressed like the Oirats.

Bretschneider says that the Sungarian name of
Urumtsi first appears in Chinese annals in 171 7.
After the Emperor K'ien-lung had conquered Sun-
garia, in the middle of the last century, the Chinese
built, in 1 765, a new city on eight hills, at a distance
of three miles from Urumtsi. Here 3,000 Manchu
were settled under the command of a Chinese general.
In the days of Jinghiz, the great highway from Mon-
golia to Western Asia passed through Bishbalik. It
is mentioned by Ye-lii Ch'u-ts'ai, who accompanied
Jinghiz. King Hay ton's route led also through it.
In 1756 the Jesuit Father d'Arocha determined the
astronomical position of the place ; and, in November
1879, Dr. A. Regel penetrated to it from Karakhojo.
In 1887 the first Englishman, Mr Carey, arrived, and
the year following came Colonel Bell, who gives the

332 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

present Chinese appellation of the place, which I heard
also in Kuldja, as Umiotza or Hung-miotza.

The present Urumtsi is a town rising from ruins.
The district is poor and sparsely populated, and has
no nomadic inhabitants. It contains a population of
20 Chinese and 1,000 Turki families, besides 1,000
Chinamen without their families. Its shops number
500, many of them kept by men from Hunan. Ex-
cellent coal and natural coke is brought from the hills,
and fetches from 6s. gd. to us. 3d. per 1,333 lbs., or
about 1 1 J. to iSs. a ton. Iron costs 43^. 6d. per cwt.
It is not found here, but is brought from Kwei-hwa-
cheng. M. Grum-Grjimailo speaks of Urumtsi as
producing nothing but corn and the poppy. Nearly
every kind of food has to be imported, including rice,
grapes, and other fruit. The people of Urumtsi have
not even cattle of their own. The animals are all
driven hither by Kirghese. Kalmuks, he says, are not
allowed to trade, and Kirghese are suffered to pasture
their cattle only on the way to market, Russian
subjects being under like disabilities. There are said
to be in Urumtsi and the neighbouring nine or ten
small towns 20,000 soldiers, but some think this
probably includes the total number from Hami to
Kuldja. I heard at Kuldja of much discontent among
the troops in Sungaria, and I have since learned from
M. de Deken that, their pay being six months in
arrear, they revolted and completely destroyed
Chuguchak, nor did he know in 1892 whether the
barracks had been rebuilt.

Urumtsi is the headquarters town of Sin Kiang, or
New Province. The Governor-General lives there.
Under his authority are the Tautais of Aksu and
Kashgar, as well as the Tsian-Tsiun of Suiting and

CHINESE TURKISTAN. 333

the Tutung of Chuguchak. Hence, M. de Deken
told me, in 1892, there had been recently placed in
Suiting and Chuguchak Chinese generals, who com-
mand the Chinese troops, leaving it to the Manchu
authorities to command the Manchu, Solon, Sibo, and
Kalmuk forces. The Chinese generals are from
Yunnan, and recognise no authority but that of
Urumtsi. The late Liu Joshive, as Mr Carey called
him (or Lu-ko-sai, according to Bell), enjoyed the
prestige of having regained the province for the
Chinese in 1878. If I am not mistaken, he had
charge of the province for the rest of his life, and
Carey speaks of him as popular with all classes. With
him lived two Miah-tai, four Tautai (or generals),
and three Tutung mandarins. M. Grum-Grjimailo in
1890 speaks of the Governor-General as Fan-tek.

The town, with a side of 1,000 yards, has been
remodelled. Old walls have been thrown down and
new ones built, or the old, where retained, thickened
to a top-width of 24 feet. They are of well-rammed
mud, 1 5 feet high, the gates being of wood, six inches
thick, faced with thin iron. The town is situated in
an undulating valley from five to seven miles broad,
and, as it is commanded by hills approaching to within
1,500 yards, would be at the mercy of artillery.

The valley runs up into the Tian Shan, the foot
hills of which form a minor watershed on the south,
whilst a broad river-bed skirts the downs westward.
Urumtsi, being situated on the northern road from
Sungaria to China, and commanding the southern
road to Kashgar, must always be an important post.
To join this southern road, the Tian Shan is crossed
to Toksun, 103 miles distant, on the way from Hami,
vid Pishan and Turfan.

334 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA,

Pishan is on the ninth stage from Hami, situated in
a rich oasis ten miles long by three broad, with
numerous hamlets, the town itself being inclosed
within mud walls 25 feet high and 400 yards in length
on each side. The one street has a few good shops in
it. There are only 100 men in the garrison, but there
are an additional 200 men in a fort at Shigatai, 30
miles eastward. Between Hami and Pishan the first
three stages are over level country at the base of the
Tian Shan, which for the most part is desert, but with
oases at every ten or fifteen miles. These are covered
with ruins of houses built by the Chinese army under
General Tso-tsung-tang, who, on their way to meet
the forces of Yakub Khan, settled down quietly for a
season, cultivated the land, grew some corn, and then,
reinforced, went forward to conquer. Remains of
forts of this period are still to be seen, and occasionally
a monument to a fallen Chinese officer. Pishan was
claimed as the first frontier town of Kashgaria, under
Yakub Khan. Fifty-five miles westward is Turfan.

Turfan is another of the towns of this region which
has existed for many centuries. The Ming Shi
mentions it, under the name of Kiao-ho-ch'eng (or
"the city surrounded by a river"), as the capital of
Ch'e-shi, a kingdom of the time of the Han dynasty,
before the Christian era. For a while the name was
changed, but it was restored under the Sung 960 —
1 1 27. The country was then occupied by the
Uigurs, who used to send tribute to China, and in
98 1 Wang Yen-te was sent by the Chinese emperor
to Kao-ch'ang. The Mongol dynasty established here
the headquarters of a corps of 10,000.

The name Tu-lu-fan appears first in Chinese annals
under 1377, when the imperial troops are said to have

CHINESE TURKISTAN. 335

ravaged the country to punish the ruler for plundering
foreign embassies on their way to China. In 1406, the
emperor having sent an embassy far westwards, the
envoy on his way made a present of silk stuffs to the
ruler of Tu-lu-fan, after which there followed return
offerings from Turfan in subsequent years of jade,
horses, and gyrfalcons. In the middle of the fifteenth
century the ruler of Tu-lu-fan, becoming powerful,
assumed the title of Wang, then that of Sultan, and
seized Hami.

Turfan, since the fifteenth century, has been re-
peatedly visited by Muhammadan and Christian
travellers. We hear of it in connection with Shah
Rukh (whose embassy found there a Buddhist temple)
and Haji Muhammad. Benedict Goes stayed in it for
a month, and Father d'Espinha went there for survey-
ing purposes, after which Chinese Turkistan was closed
to Europeans. Dr A. Regel visited Turfan in 1879,
and Carey, Bell, and Younghusband in 1887-8. The
latest European travellers are the brothers Grum-
Grjimailo, who, in 1890, explored the Bogdo Moun-
tains, visited the sites of former Uigur towns, and
penetrated the desert south of Turfan.

The Bogdo Mountains north-west of Turfan are
mentioned very far back in Chinese literature. In
the Ming Geography the rocks of Ling Shan, or the
mysterious mountain, are said to show veins like hair,
and the Sung History says that the interior of the
mountain contains sal-ammoniac. " Inside there is
a perpetual fire, and the smoke sent out of it never
ceases. In the evening the flames issuing from it
resemble torch-light. The bats also appear red."
M. Grum-Grjimailo states that Bogdo-ola may be
ascended by a fair road from Urumtsi.

336 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

The mountain is reckoned by the Mongols to be
God's throne. The whole locality is sacred, and
around it numerous temples have been erected. A
notice, too, has been put up near the lake forbidding
any one, under penalty of instant death, to violate the
tranquillity of this holy land. There must be no
shooting nor tree-cutting, nor any depasturing of
cattle.*

At the present day, the oasis round Turfan is about
eight miles long and four broad, to a considerable
extent under cotton and wheat. Water is procured
from wells, but irrigation is carried on chiefly by
underground canals from springs at the foot of the
hills. On nearing the place from the east the traveller
passes through the ruins of an ancient town (destroyed,
according to Regel, 400 years ago), with a large
mosque or tomb and a minaret 200 feet high. There
are two distinct towns about a mile apart, and both
walled ; the eastern one, 150 years old, being occupied
by Chinese, the western by Turkis. The Chinese
town has a population of 3,000 or 4,000, including
perhaps from 800 to 1,000 soldiers. The four gate-
ways of its square walls are defended by semicircular
bastions. There are a few shops in the Chinese town,
but most of the trade is carried on in the one street,
a mile and a half long, of the Turki town. Young-
husband describes the heat in July as intense, and says
that the people, to avoid it, live by day in underground
rooms. Around the town for miles are hundreds, if

* Compare with this the directions concerning Mount Sinai : " And
thou shalt set bounds unto the people round about, saying, Take heed
to yourselves, that ye go not up into the mount, or touch the border of
it : whosoever toucheth the mount shall be surely put to death. There
shall not a hand touch it, but he shall surely be stoned or shot through ;
whether it be beast or man, it shall not live " (Exod. xix. 12, 13).

CHINESE TURKISTAN. 337

not thousands, of open wells, some of them 100 feet
deep, dug by the Chinese army when besieging Turfan
during the late rebellion.

Ten miles distant from Turfan is Mazar, or a tomb
locally noted as a place of Muhammadan pilgrimage,
its houses and galleries being fastened apparently to
the rock, and having a crypt. Dr Regel was shown
there sundry banners, with Sart and Dungan inscrip-
tions, and other curiosities.

Travelling westward, the next place of importance
is Toksun, near which are located 200 Kalmuk
families. The population of the town consists of 400
Turki, 200 Dungan, and about 15 Chinese families,
besides a garrison of 250 cavalry and a like number
of infantry. Yakub Khan held nothing securely east
of Toksun, and Toksun may be regarded as the out-
post of Karashar. It was also at one time the limit of
the province of Kansu.

From Toksun to Karashar is about 145 miles, over
country generally barren. For a great part of the
distance the road runs through low hills. In winter
there is considerable traffic in frozen fish, which are
brought from Lake Bagratsh and carried to Urumtsi.

In the time of Timur, Karashar was called Jalish,
and it was here that he divided among his troops the
booty taken in ravaging Moghulistan. The ruins of
the old town are still visible. The present town con-
sists of 460 Dungan, 250 Turki, 100 Chinese, and
400 Kalmuk families, but there are in the vicinity
from 1,000 to 2,000 Mongols, all Kalmuks. The town
would seem to exist to supply their requirements, and
as a strategic position. The country between it and
Urumtsi — a heavy ten days' journey for carts — pro-
duces but little. Lob-Nor is ten days' journey distant

vol. 1. 22

338 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

in a south-easterly direction. Grass is found on the
road, but water is scarce. The Karashar river near
the town is about 200 yards wide in winter, and is
crossed on the ice ; but increases to 500 yards in
summer, when a ferry-boat is poled across in half-an-
hour. From Karashar there is a road leading over
the Tian Shan by the Yulduz valley to Kuldja, 280
miles distant.

About 32 miles south-west from Karashar is Kurla,
with a population of 2,000 Turki, 50 Dungan, and 10
Chinese families, ruled by a mandarin of low grade —
a Wang. Beyond Kurla the road still runs through
a country generally barren, though somewhat less so
than farther east. At several of the halting-places are
small patches of cultivation and a tiny bazaar. From
Kurla, at a distance of 85 miles, is reached the large
walled village of Yengi Hissar, of 800 Turki and 5
Chinese families. Bell computes the population of
this oasis at 200 persons to the square mile, and con-
siders that a fair estimate for the oases hereabouts.
Twenty-one miles westward bring the traveller,
through a barren country and little grass, to Bugur —
a large oasis occupied by 1,500 Turki, 15 Dungan, and
8 Chinese families. It is locally famous for its manu-
facture of rugs. From this point, through Yaka-Arak,
the road passes to Kuchar over small oases for the
most part unoccupied.

Kuchar was anciently an important little principality
and a flourishing seat of Buddhism. On a hill to the
north are ruins of an ancient temple and monastery,
where are found fragments of sculpture. Forsyth
states that in certain rock-cut galleries are paintings
of men and animals, still fresh and bright. A large
figure also is said to exist here on the face of a rock

CHINESE TURKISTAN. 339

overlooking the road to Kurla. It is described as
having the tongue lolled out and the right shoulder
depressed, with extended arms, as is the fashion of
Kalmuk salutation, but neither Carey, Bell, nor
Younghusband mentions it.

Kuchar is now a walled town in a rich oasis, occu-
pied by 3,050 Turki, 1,200 Dungan, and 30 Chinese
families, with 450 shops. This district is occupied
by 7,000 Turki families. In the neighbouring hills
copper ore in nodules is found in sand or sandy clay.
Coal also is reported to be found in the hills. The
town is garrisoned by 500 soldiers, who get 22s. 6d.
a month and beans for their ponies, which are Govern-
ment property. The soldiers find grass.

The only place of importance between Kuchar and
Aksu is Bai, famous for the excellence of its dairy
produce. In the district are 40,000 families, and in
the town 1,100 Turki and 140 Dungan and Chinese
families. Proceeding south-west from Bai, the road
passes over sand-hills, and several streams are crossed
before the traveller reaches our old acquaintance the
Muzart-nin-su, which at the point of fording is 400
feet wide, rapid, and from two to three feet deep.

The road then passes through Jam (not the place of
that name on the road from the Muzart), and onward
to Aksu, where, as I have said, my party arrived on
August 15th. Having thus given a general idea
of the geography of Chinese Turkistan, and some
account of the north-eastern portion of the country,
which was not visited by me, I shall now proceed to
speak of those portions through which I travelled.

CHAPTER XXII.

OUR STAY A 7 AKSU.

Aksu ; its history and area, 340. — Our arrival and lodging, 341. —
Intricacies of Chinese money ; shoes, tengas, and cash, 343. —
Visits from merchants ; distribution of Scriptures, 345. — Reward
offered for Dalgleish's murderer, 346. — Aksu bazaar, 347. — Riding
round the town ; its buildings, cemetery, and mode of burial, 348. —
Repair of camera, 349. — Visit to Chinese Aksu ; Reception of
official visits, 351. — Inspection of prison, 352. — Preparations for
departure, and payment to Osman Bai; Presents to Monkey-
face and Tor-jee ; Letters despatched to Kuldja, 354. — Cart-driver
taken before the magistrate, 355.

AKSU is a place of considerable antiquity. Ac-
cording to Deguignes, it appears in the Chinese
annals under the Han dynasty as early as the second
century B.C. Sir Henry Yule thinks it to be the
" Auxacia " mentioned in the second century a.d. in
the geography of Ptolemy. Hiuen Tsiang, before
crossing the Muzart Pass, stopped one night in the
kingdom of Poh-luh-kia, as the eastern portion of Aksu
in his day was called.

About the date of Timur's conquest of Moghulistan
we read of Mirza Eskender besieging Aksu, which in
1 399 is described as consisting of three castles, having
communication one with another, and deemed by the
inhabitants of the neighbouring provinces to be an

OUR STAY AT AKSU. 341

asylum in time of war. Nevertheless, after several
assaults in the course of 40 days, the defenders had to
yield to the cogent arguments of the sapper and the
battering-ram, and several rich Chinese came out of
the place and offered presents.

At the beginning of the sixteenth century Aksu was
ruled over by Sultan Ahmed Khan, whom his son
Mansur succeeded and died a.d. 1545. Haji Muham-
mad (about 1550) mentions Aksu on the high road
from China to Samarkand, and in 1604 Benedict Goes
passed through Aksu from Yarkand, probably by the
route recently followed in the reverse direction by Mr
Carey, and later by Major Cumberland — that is, along
the Yarkand river.

The Aksu district now extends east to within two
marches of Bai, and west to within three of Maral-
bashi. It contains about a dozen villages, and is said
to have a population of 180,000 souls. Our party
approached Aksu, as I have said, from the north along
the top of a cliff, from the edge of which the town
below came suddenly into view. We descended into
the town by a ten-foot gully, on a gradient of one in
ten, and passed through narrow streets barred by four
gates and shut off by palisades into quarters, as at
Kuldja — a precautionary arrangement, I was told, in
view of possible insurrection.

On reaching the premises of Madamin Bai, they
were found to be large and commodious, with plenty
of stable accommodation, or rather standing room, for
my horses. My host's reception room, too, was large
and lofty, whilst to me was given his wife's apartments,
that lady having taken her departure for a season. I
was thankful indeed to have once more a tolerably
comfortable dwelling, and celebrated the occasion on

342 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

the first night by taking a whole 12 hours in bed.
After this I rose refreshed, and, breakfast over, pro-
ceeded to master the intricacies of Chinese money-
changing.

I have said that I purchased at Jarkend for 1,160
roubles a pood, or 36 lbs. avoirdupois, of yatnb-sMver.
This was given me at Suiting in several large " shoes,"
or lumps bigger than a closed fist, commonly spoken
of as 50 Hang each, and still smaller " shoes," the rest
being made up of half-shoes, quarter-shoes, and odd
pieces (I suppose "toes," "heels," and "uppers"!), of
various shapes and sizes.

Furthermore, at Kuldja a miniature balance or steel-
yard of wood was obtained, about 1 2 inches long, with
a pan slung from one end, and at the other a scale
indicated by dots, whence to suspend a piece of brass
according to the weight required. One Hang, it was
said, was equal to ten chian, and each chian to ten
ping, but all differing according to whether small,
medium, or large scales were used. The custom on
this point varied from place to place, whilst, by way of
nicely mixing up Russian, Chinese, and English ideas,
it was explained that in a Russian pood were 27
Chinese jing* which latter was about an English pound,
the jing being divided into 16 ser, or the approximate
equivalent of an English ounce.*

So long as payments were of large amount, as when
I paid Osman Bai 35 Hang of silver, all was tolerably
simple. A few pieces were found of the right weight,
which he received without question, and there ended

* Thus provided and instructed, I was to go to market, as did, I
suppose, the patriarch Abraham, when he went shopping in Damascus,
or when he " weighed to Ephron the silver which he had named in the
audience of the children of Heth, four hundred shekels of silver, current
money with the merchant " (Gen. xxiii. 16).

OUR STAY A 7 AKSU. 343

the matter. But when payment for small purchases was
required, then commenced such a complicated business
as I had never before experienced.*

The people of Aksu do not, in the case of small
purchases, speak of fractions of a Hang, but of tengas
(a Turkish silver coin) and of Chinese chakra or dak-
chan, better known in China proper as " cash," 25 cash
being equal in reckoning to a tenga.^

The chakra, dah-chan, sapek, or cash is a round
coin supposed to be of copper, but heavily alloyed,
about the size of a farthing, and with a square hole
in the centre to allow of its being threaded on a string.
Five hundred of these coins were at Aksu equivalent
to a Hang at par. On the day of my arrival the Aksakal
said he could give me 488 (or for each paper rouble
178), but a day or two later the price had fallen to

* The pood of silver was said at Jarkend to contain 440 ser or
Hang, the same, I presume, as the tael of Peking; but at Aksu
they said that now the pood was reckoned at only 432. I was further
informed, with delightful lack of precision, that in a Hang were about
two soom, that each soom was equivalent to 250 chakra, and each
chakra to two puis, the last an obsolete coin, of which I remember
seeing a specimen, I think, in Khiva.

t I say in reckoning, because the tenga is now only a coin of
account Yakub Khan minted a number of these coins, resembling
those of Khokand and Bokhara, with a fixed value in Kashgaria, and
passing in Russian territory for 20 kopecks each. However, on the
arrival of a new Chinese Governor at Kashgar, he upset the market
(and everybody in it) by proscribing the tenga and annulling its fixed
value. Hence my " white tengas," of which I had purchased a small
stock in Kuldja, I found at Aksu to be worth only their weight as silver,
and that not pure silver, since alloy had been added, and a great many
of the coins, it was said, were counterfeit. To make matters still more
complicated, the Kashgar merchants having melted down their tengas
into yambs, which not being of pure metal like the old, there was
thrown on the market more than one quality of yamb, thus affording
ample room for higgling as to how many chakra should be given for a
Hang of "old" or "new" silver. Of all this I knew nothing when
receiving my pood of yambs, but accepted what was offered, supposing
each fragment to be alike good.

344 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

475, and subsequently in a different locality to as little
as 350.

Now, as I started with English money, and my
accounts would have to be translated, roughly at all
events, back into English, the reader will perceive
that matters stood thus: — With English pounds were
purchased roubles in London, St Petersburg, and
Tiflis at a different price in each. At Jarkend roubles
were turned into lumps of silver, of value differing
according to their standard of purity. This silver
purchased "cash" at prices varying from 475 to 350
to the ounce, after which what mathematician would
undertake to state exactly in £ s. d. the price of an
article purchased ?

To me, who love exactness in accounts, and enter
every penny spent, the puzzle, fairly made my head
swim, and the only way seemed to be to keep separate
the accounts paid in silver, the small expenses in two
columns of tengas and cash, and then envy the auditor
who had to subscribe " Examined and found correct. "
Nor was keeping accounts the only difficulty, for on
sending to the bazaar for small change to the value
of 10 Hang, (or about £2) there were brought 4,750
coins on the back of a donkey! Subsequently, in
Peking, this embarras de richesses was still worse,
where 10 taels brought nearly 30,000 cash ; but at
Aksu copper was scarce, and warning was given that at
Kashgar the liang would bring less than 475 chakra.
" Better, then," I said, "to buy some more here?"
But that raised two other questions : first, would
any one in the bazaar have so much change? and,
next, would the taking so much money to Kashgar
affect the rate of exchange there? Were I a native
merchant, they said, I certainly should not be allowed

OUR STA Y AT AKSU. 345

to do it ; but since I was a foreigner, and rfiy baggage
not subject to examination at the intervening Custom-
houses, I might smuggle the money through ; and this
I believe was done surreptitiously by one of the party
who travelled under my shadow.

For my own part, fearing that we should not have
sufficient small money for the road, I sent, on the
morning of our departure, for the value of ten Hang
of cash more, but was told, rightly or wrongly, that
inquiry had been made in all directions, but that no
one in the bazaar possessed so much !

As may be surmised, these transactions did not
inspire me with lofty ideas of the wealth of the
merchant princes of Aksu, who, nevertheless, did
not delay to cultivate my further acquaintance. Not
content with having escorted us into the town, the
Afghans and other traders came next morning, early
— I think before I was up — to pay me a formal call.

There are said to be about 100 foreign traders in
Aksu, most of them Andijanis or Russian subjects,
and some no doubt were killing two birds with one
stone when calling first on their Aksakal, and then
asking for his guest. I received and regaled them
with sherbet, and, on casting about for their business
with me, learned that it was the feast of Kurban-
Bairam, when everybody called on everybody, and
so I had been included.

They appeared extremely desirous to impress me
favourably — why, I could not for a long time make
out ; but it occurred to me to make capital out of a
return call on the Afghans, by seeking information as
to the possibility of crossing the Baroghil Pass into
Chitral, and trying to dispose of some of my Scriptures
amongst them. And this I did successfully.

346 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

As for the Baroghil Pass, Gufur Khan, the Afghan
Aksakal, informed us that the road was free from
robbers, practicable in autumn or winter, but that a
Wakhan tent would be needed. The Chief of Chitral,
we were told, was Aman-el-Mulk, who could speak
and read Persian.

Gufur Khan subsequently asked me for a letter of
recommendation to all and sundry, thinking it might
serve him, I suppose, on his journeys to India. I
was uncharitable enough to suspect that this might
explain in part the assiduity of his attentions, though
he appears to have been attentive to Colonel Bell also.

Others suggested that since Mr Dalgleish had been
murdered by an Afghan, the traders of that race here
were afraid that they might lose the British favour
and protection they had enjoyed in passing through
Kashmir, and so were anxious to ingratiate them-
selves with me, seeking my protection in the form
of a letter. But just then I was not in a very
good humour with the Afghans, and Gufur Khan
had served me in no recognised capacity ; so that,
although I did not think it politic to refuse his request,
yet, not knowing what use he might make of the
letter, I took care not to make it too laudatory.

During our stay notice came from the Russian Consul
at Kashgar to the Russian Aksakal at Aksu that the
Indian Government had offered a reward of 5,000 rupees
for the arrest of Daud Muhammad Khan, the murderer
of Dalgleish, and 3,000 more for a certain dervish sup-
posed to be implicated in the murder. This notice the
Aksakal received instructions to publish throughout
the bazaar, and not to depend upon what the Chinese
authorities might do ; but he came to me first with the
letter, and took counsel how he should act.

OUR STAY Al AKSU. 347

Daud Muhammad Khan, he said, had been in Aksu
not many days previously — a fact known to the Afghan
Aksakal and a few others. He had brought four horse-
loads of what I understood to be indigo or blue, which
was left in the care of certain traders, who, he thought,
might afford a clue to the owner s whereabouts. Sub-
sequent inquiry only elicited that he left for Ush-
Turfan, and was now said to be in the mountains
among the Kirghese.

On looking round the bazaar we saw exhibited for
sale both English and Russian goods, — the English of
fine muslin, though I do not remember much else ; and
the Russian of cotton and chintzes, but everything
looking poor.*

For ourselves we were able to secure a few objects
of local make, such as ear- and finger-rings, and a sheep-
skin-lined head-dress something like the shape of the
pope's hat, or that seen in old pictures of the early
Russian Czars. This was worn far and wide through
Chinese Turkistan, but I do not remember to have
seen it in Russian Turkistan.

We also obtained a woman's veil and bonnet, or
rather hat, of a shape new to me, bulging out towards
the top, and possibly the remote ancestor of some of
the stiff crowns worn by European monarchs. To
these must be added some specimens of local pottery
and earthenware, and children's curiosities. Fruit was

* Twenty years ago Aksu was said to be celebrated for its manufac-
tures of saddlery and harness, its pottery, raw hide, jars called dabba,
for oil, butter, etc. Its tobacco also was considered the best in the
country. All these, with cattle and the shawl-wool of Ush-Turfan, were
exported to the neighbouring towns. Also, at a still earlier date, lead,
copper, and sulphur mines were worked in the neighbouring mountains ;
and coal, found in the hills (near Karabagh, where there are hot sulphur
springs), was brought into the town.

348 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

plentiful and cheap everywhere. Nectarines, as luscious
as one need desire, cost 2d. for 75, and grapes in pro-
portion. Flour, ground by donkey- or water-power,
cost five cash and three cash the catty, or, say, \d. and
\d. per lb. ; rice, five cash the catty.

The bazaar was full of men and women, the latter
not being in all cases veiled. Our foreign appearance
attracted attention and collected a crowd, amongst
which the Turkish element was respectful or timid.
They rose to their feet ; not so, however, the few
Chinese we saw in the Turkish quarter.

Later on we took a ride round the town. It is said
to contain 4,010 houses, some of them mounting up
the sides of the surrounding cliffs. All were flat-
roofed and low, presenting a poverty-stricken appear-
ance. There are in the town 500 Chinese and 500
Dungan, or Chinese Muhammadan, families ; the
rest are Turkish.

Mounting to what was the fort, built by Yakub
Khan in place of an old Chinese citadel, we obtained
a good view of the place, with the river and adjacent
gardens and rice-fields, the verdure of which was in
striking contrast to the parched appearance of other
portions of the landscape. The houses looked crowded
together, one or two mosques only rising above the
dull level of the earthen roofs.

In this place Yakub Beg had a small-arms workshop,
manned chiefly by natives of the Panjab ; but now all
munitions of war come from China. The only buildings
that invited attention were the tombs with domes,
in the vast cemetery on top of the cliff. Some of
them had inclosures entered by gateways. Besides
these there was one good-looking mosque, and several
mausoleums of considerable size.

OUR STA Y AT AKSU. 349

We saw a body being borne to burial. Unlike the
staid procession of the West, this is done at Aksu with
a rush. At death the chin of the corpse is tied with a
cloth, and the thumbs of the hands are tied together
as well as the big toes. Then the body, after being
washed and laid out, is buried within 24 hours, mullahs
at the cemetery reading the Koran.*

After the rough experiences which my camera had
gone through, as already recorded, I examined it with
some anxiety. It had suffered little, and some glue
quickly repaired the leather where it had been loosened
by damp. This done, I secured a capital view of my
host at home, seated beside his pots of flowers, and
his mirza or clerk with my Chinese interpreter standing
near the principal door, over the top of which was a
window-lattice, covered as usual with paper, there
being little or no window-glass in the country.f

I took early opportunity to send my card to the
Chinese Tautai> or General, named Chen, whom I
had heard of at Kuldja as Ji-li-ju, or Commandant
de district. Of this, at first, no notice was taken,
nor was it until the fifth day after my arrival, and

* No cooking is done in the house for three days, food being supplied
by friends, and on the fourth day a feast is prepared for the mullahs
who praise the dead. The women remain in the house for seven days.
A widow mourns her husband 40 days, using his name in her prayers
daily, and wears a black cloth over her shoulders. A widower wears a
white waist cloth. A woman indicates her mourning for father or
mother by covering the upper part of her head-dress with white cloth.

t Also I attempted a view of my host's gateway, which was a covered
porch with an earthen bench, and on this, sitting with his haunches
drawn up and head between his knees, was a poor little idiot boy, who,
when fruit was offered, took it and grinned. Deserted alike by father
and mother, the Aksakal allowed him by day to take refuge here " at
his gate," where he was fed with crumbs that fell from the rich man's
table, whilst at night he was locked up, generally in tears, in a shed
near at hand.

350 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

after two subsequent messages, that this dignitary
summoned me to an audience at the " Yengi Shahr,"
or New City, seven miles off.

The proper thing was to go in a Chinese cab or
springless cart, which I did, taking with me Joseph
and the interpreter into Chinese sent me by M.
Petrovsky from Kashgar. This man wished to be
nameless. Monkey-face and Tor-jee said that he
spoke " English " Chinese, which they could not
understand, but I hoped that between us all we
should be able to manage.

On arriving, the Tautai sent to say that he had
" lost his father," which I heard was sometimes a
polite way of excusing oneself from a personal inter-
view, and we saw his secretary instead, one perhaps
of the three or more mandarins under the Tautai,
whose jurisdiction extends from Karashar to Chilian.

Our reception was conducted with some ceremony.
My name being announced, the great gates of the
yamen were promptly thrown open, and we were
conducted through a crowd, assembled en fete to
witness a theatrical display. Passing by and beyond
the canopied stage, where the players were acting,
we were taken to an inner audience chamber, and
regaled with tea and pudding, with variations.

I then opened business by asking that the two men
who had accompanied me from the Tsian-Tsiun might
be sent back to Kuldja ; next, that two Chinese might
be given me as an escort to Kashgar ; and, lastly, that
I might be allowed to visit the local prison. All these
requests were granted, after which I asked acceptance
by the Tautai of a Chinese New Testament and other
Scriptures, and some large oleograph wall-pictures.

I also gave much the same to the secretary, and

OUR STA Y AT AKSU. 351

proceeded to distribute to the people standing around
some of my large illuminated text-cards, and smaller
ones to the playgoers outside ; the result of which
was that, in the eagerness of the people to get them,
we were speedily mobbed. The secretary, however,
did the honours by accompanying me to my carriage,
and bowing me away.

There is an old Chinese town, now deserted, near
the Turkish quarter, but the present Chinese city of
Aksu was only five years old at the time of my visit —
built, it was said, by forced Turkish labour, on a sub-
sistence allowance of six cash, or a halfpenny a day !
During its construction several hundred men were
reported to have died from accidental causes.*

On the morning after my audience a Chinese official
called and confirmed yesterdays arrangements. He
brought me from the Tautai a present of two sheep,
two fowls, and a donkey-load of clover ; but not, as
one Englishman was treated to, a thousand of cash.

My pictures had evidently made an impression, for
this envoy alluded to them very tenderly, asking
whether some could be bought. I therefore gave
him two, and also a Chinese New Testament. On
the next day the Tautai 's secretary called ; but as
he was so very polite as to come before I was up —
that is, between four and five in the morning — I
excused myself from receiving him.

* The town is about 1,000 yards square ; the walls 20 feet thick and
about 16 in height, with a musketry parapet 6 feet high and 3 thick.
The prefectures at the angles are from 40 to 50 feet long, those at the
gates more than 1 50 feet. The ditch is from 30 to 40 feet wide, and
shallow, but can be easily filled with water. On the east side is a
suburb, but on the other sides the land was under cultivation. Within
are large granaries, offices, and shops, kept for the most part by
Chinese. The whole is intended as a place of refuge should there
be another Turkish uprising.

352 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

On the afternoon of that day we went to visit the
prison — "one of the most horrible I have ever en-
tered," says my diary. The room that called forth
this remark was a small one, into which 23 men
were crowded, the only furniture in it being long
wooden stocks, like those of Bokhara, to hold the
prisoners* feet at night. The ventilation was by a
hole in the roof, and the atmosphere was so close
and hot that one could hardly breathe.

Several prisoners wore the cangue, or wooden frame
about the neck, which Williams says " is considered
rather a censure or reprimand than a punishment, and
is supposed to carry no disgrace with it. The frame
weighs between 20 and 30 lbs." (I think I have seen
one heavier at Kiakhta), "and is made to rest upon the
shoulders without chafing the neck, but is so broad as
to prevent the person feeding himself" (unless provided,
like my man at Kiakhta, with a long-handled wooden
spoon). " The name, residence, and offence of the de-
linquent are written upon the cangne for the information
of passers-by, and the culprit is usually exposed in a
public place."

Besides the cangue, I saw at Aksu two instances in
which a wooden post, 6 feet high and perhaps 18
inches round, was chained to a man's neck and ankle,
so that, wherever he moved, this undesirable com-
panion had to be carried with him. I distributed
some tengas among the prisoners, and asked that they
might be brought outside into the yard. I was then
allowed to take several photographs, some of the poor
wretches being almost without clothing, and all very
miserable in appearance.

The feast of Kurban-Bairam kept me well supplied
with visitors, three parties of Muhammadans calling

IN THE PRISON AT AKSU— METHODS OF PUNISHING THE PRISONERS.

VOL. I.

354 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

upon us in one day, so that time did not hang on my
hands, especially as preparations had to be made for
starting afresh. After paying Osman Bai the balance
due to him, it was arranged that he was to take us to
Kashgar for 60 licing of silver, of which 35 were to
be payable in advance ; our transport expenses thus
standing at about £\2 from Kuldja to Aksu, and £\t>
from Aksu to Kashgar. He was to start on Tuesday,
August 2 1 st.

To Monkey-face and Tor-jee I gave sundry presents,
both for men and womenkind, including needle-cases,
buckles, hair-pins, besides Scriptures in all the
languages they could command (and some they could
not), photographs, flour for the way, two cups, an
enamelled bottle, chain and compasses, pencils, and,
finally, a watch and medal to each.

These medals were a happy thought when laying
in suitable presents. They consisted of half-crowns,
double florins, and crowns, all of them new Jubilee
coins, with a hole (contrary to law, I fear), through
which was passed a riband of imperial yellow. They
were a great success, and enabled me to score off
my friends the Russians.

" See," said Amin, the groom, " what excellent
people the English are. You may serve the Russians
a very long time before you get a medal, and here,
after a few days' travel, is a man decorated for life ! "

Nevertheless, Monkey-face did not seem perfectly
happy, and, on parting, spoke fearfully as to whether
and how the Tautai, who was not his master, would
send him back. The face of Tor-jee, who had sold his
watch for several roubles, was radiant.

The Aksakalvtzs despatching a letter to the Russian
Consul at Kuldja, so I took the opportunity to send

OUR STA Y AT AKSU. 355

one too, and put in a good word for my host at Aksu,
who spared no pains to make us comfortable. I wrote
also to the Tsian-Tsiun and Kah, saying how well
their men had behaved.

We had then only one more difficulty to surmount.
There was now to be added to our caravan an arba
in which my interpreter had travelled from Kashgar,
with a mirza, or writer, as servant. The arbakesh,
or driver, had agreed at Kashgar to go to Aksu and
back. The return journey was to cost 20 roubles, all
of which he asked now in advance, pretending that he
wanted to buy a new horse, but wishing, if I remember
rightly, to hand over his job to some one else.

To this we objected, being willing to advance only
half the money and to pay the rest on the man's
return home. As he continued obstinate, my in-
terpreter took him before the Chinese magistrate, who
put the interpreter upon oath, by making him say his
prayers, and then, having heard his statements, ordered
the arbakesh to fulfil his engagement.

CHAPTER XXIII.

THE SOURCES OF OUR KNOWLEDGE OF CHINESE
CENTRAL ASIA.

Meaning of "Chinese Central Asia," anciently "Cathay," 356. —
How regarded by Greeks and Romans ; Ptolemy's " Serica " ;
Chinese historians, 357. — The Buddhist pilgrims, 359.— Arabian
knowledge of the "Seres" ; Armenian and Persian intercourse
with China, 360. — Nestorian and Roman missionaries, 361. —
Marco Polo, 362. — Benedict Goes ; Translations from Chinese re-
cords and from Tchuen-yuen, 364.— Russian contact with Mongols ;
Missions to Peking and Yarkand, 368. — Advances to Sungaria
and Kashgar, 370. — Prjevalsky's journeys in Mongolia, 371. —
Renat's map of Sungaria, 372.— English explorers in Sungaria,
and in Tarim basin, 374. — Forsyth's missions to Kashgar, 375. —
Later travellers in Chinese Turkistan, 376.

HAVING now reached the northern capital of
Chinese Turkistan, and indicated the geo-
graphical features of the country generally, I proceed
to give some account of the sources of our information
about this and other parts of Chinese Central Asia, by
which is meant here the western portion of extra-mural
China.

What we now understand by the Chinese empire
was known to the ancients of the West, when ap-
proached by sea, as Sin, Chin, Sinae, and China ; but
when approached across Asia, as "the land of the
Seres," and, later, " Cathay " or " Kitai," none recog-

SOURCES OF OUR KNOWLEDGE. 357

nising that the country indicated was one and the
same. But with China as approached by sea, or what
we now call China proper, we are not here concerned.

From Yule's Cathay, and the extracts from
classical authors in Cordier's Bibliotheca Sinica, we
learn that the Greeks and Romans regarded the region
of the Seres as a vast and populous country, touching
on the east the ocean and the limits of the habitable
world, and extending westwards nearly to the
Himalayas and the confines of Bactriana. And this
we now know from other sources to have been about
the width of the Chinese empire for a century before
and after the Christian era.

In the geography of Ptolemy (about 150 a.d.) we
read : " Serica is girdled round by the mountains named
Annibi, by the easternmost part of the Auxacian
Mountains, by the mountains called Asmiraei, the
easternmost part of the Casian Mountains, by Mount
Thagurus, by the most easterly part of the ranges
called Emodus-Sericus, and by the chain of Ottoro-
corras. Two rivers of special note flow through the
greater part of Serica ; the river CEchardes is one . . .
and the other is the river called Bautes." This Serica
is judged to describe mainly the basin of the Tarim
{CEchardes), and Colonel Yule suggests that in
Auxacia we probably trace the name of Aksu, in
Casia perhaps Kashgar, whilst the Oikhardai on the
river of that name (probably the Tarim) may repre-
sent the Uigurs.

Turning now to early Chinese historians, they tell
us that certain " inventors of arts and sciences arrived
in China as far back as 2698 B.C. from the western
kingdoms in the neighbourhood of the Kuen Lun
Mountains," which is not very definite. We learn

358 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

more clearly, under the Han dynasty (b.c. 140 — 86),
that the Yuechi had been driven by the Turkish race
of Hiongnu from their seats (somewhere between
China and Khotan, Yule thinks) westwards over the
Pamirs, first to Ferghana and then onwards to Bactriana,
where they destroyed the Greek dynasty and settled
themselves.

The Chinese Emperor, desiring to secure co-opera-
tion against the Hiongnu (who also disturbed his
border), about 135 B.C., sent for this purpose a party
under Chang-kian, who were caught on their way by
the Hiongnu and kept prisoners ten years. Chang-kian
then escaped, and continued on his way to Ferghana,
whose people had heard of, but had not come in
contact with, the power and riches of China.

Journeying forward to Bactriana, he found the
Yuechi unwilling to leave lands on the Oxus to return
to their eastern deserts and battle with the Hiongnu.
Thus unsuccessful, he tried to return to China by way
of Tibet, and was again taken by the Hiongnu, but at
length reached China again after 13 years' absence.

Subsequently, the Chinese subdued the Hiongnu,
and by b.c. 59 extended their power all over the
Tarim valley, so that, about the beginning of our era,
55 states of Western Tatary acknowledged them-
selves vassals of the empire, as did the provinces of
Trans-Oxiana and Bactriana. During the first century,
the Hiongnu emancipated themselves, but in a.d. 83
were subdued afresh by the Chinese General Panchao,
who, in a.d. 94, reconquered Kashgar, crossed the
mountains and killed the king of the Yuechi in Bac-
triana, and then pushed his conquests to the Caspian.

For our next source of information concerning
Chinese Central Asia we are indebted to Buddhism,

SOURCES OF OUR KNOWLEDGE. 359

which at an early date reached Western China from
Northern India, probably by way of Kashmir. In
a.d. 65 the Emperor Ming-te sent ambassadors to
India to obtain instruction in the new religion, and
to bring back images of Buddha. Twenty years later
Indian sovereigns are mentioned as sending presents
to the court of China, and in 405 arrived the first
embassy from Ceylon — probably by land, since it was
ten years on the road — and bringing a jade image of
Buddha.

Meanwhile, Chinese devotees began to go on
pilgrimage to India to study Buddhism in the land
of its birth ; and it is from the record of their travels
that we get information of the countries through which
they passed.

The first whose travels we have was Shih Fa-hian,
who journeyed from 399 to 414. Leaving Chang'an
in Shensi, he passed through the province of Kansu,
and then by the desert south of Lob- Nor to Cher-
chen, whence he seems to have gone north to
Karashar, where he found companions who had come
thither from China by the northern route through
Hami. The party then proceeded south to Khotan,
westwards to the Pamirs, and so to the Indus and
India. Another pilgrim, Sung Yun, set out in 518,
and from China proper seems to have travelled by the
route south of Lob-Nor to Khotan, and thence by the
same route as Fa-hian.

The most noted, however, of Buddhist pilgrims
from our point of view was Hiuen Tsiang, who
travelled between 628 and 645. Proceeding from the
end of the Great Wall to Hami, he continued by the
Nan-lu route to Aksu, thence over the Muzart, and
past Issik-Kul to Tashkend, Samarkand, and across

360 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

the Oxus into India. Thence he returned by way of
the Pamirs to Kashgar, Khotan, and across the Takla
Makan desert to Su-chow, his record furnishing more
information than any of his predecessors.

Turning now to the Arabs, we find them acquainted
with the Seres early in the eighth century. One Mu-
hammadan author reports the defeat in 709 of 200,000
Tatars, who had broken into the Muhammadan con-
quests under command of the Chinese Emperors
nephew.

About 713 the victorious General Kutaiba, after
overrunning Bokhara, Samarkand, Khiva, and Fer-
ghana, crossed the mountains to Kashgar, and sent
to the Chinese Emperor an embassy of 12 Muham-
madans, who experienced a friendly reception.

Perhaps it was they who brought notes of the
country traversed, for Abu Said, in 916, shows himself
acquainted with the general character of the overland
communication between Sogdiana and China proper,
saying that the frontier of the empire was not far from
Khorasan, but that the frontier of China proper was
two months' journey beyond, over an almost waterless
desert, the difficulty of passing which, he says, had
alone prevented the Mussulman warriors of Khorasan
from attempting the invasion of China proper.

Inquiring next of Armenia and Persia, we find
Moses of Khoren (about 440) speaking of China as a
great plain country east of Scythia, at the extremity of
the known world, comprising 29 nations, and furnish-
ing silk, musk, saffron, cotton, and peacocks. The
country of the Sinae, he said, adjoined China, which
embraced seven nations, and extended likewise to the
unknown land. Moses of Khoren states likewise that,
between 142 and 178, several bodies of settlers,

SOURCES OF OUR KNOWLEDGE. 361

including Chinese, were placed in Kurdish Armenia
for the defence of the country.

In the Chinese annals, the first record of Persia is
that of an embassy sent there in 461, and another in
the reign of Naoshirwan, who, in 567, sent an embassy
from the Persian court to China. Under Tai-tsung of
the Thang (627 — 650) Chinese authority, which west
of the mountains had previously lapsed, was fully
re-established, and carried to the borders of Persia ;
but when, in 638, Yezdijerd 111. of Persia was pressed
by the Muhammadans, and asked aid of Tai-tsung, it
was refused, though asylum seems to have been
granted to Firuz, the king's son, who established
himself in Tokharistan, near Balkh.

Thus far, nothing has been said about Christianity.
Yet we know, in addition to legendary accounts, that
it was introduced to China at an early date. Arnobius
(of the third century) speaks of the " Seres," with the
Persians and Medes, as having been reached by the
Word, and the celebrated monument of Singanfu
bears testimony that, in 635, the Nestorian missionary
Olopan arrived in China from Syria, after which, in
745, was issued an edict by the Emperor Yiun-tsong
concerning Christian temples.

In the time of the Patriarch Timothy (778 — 820)
we hear of Nestorian missions east of the Caspian,
and of the conversion of a Khakan of the Turks, as
also, later on, of the Kerait Tatars at the beginning of
the eleventh century. In the thirteenth century Marco
Polo speaks of Christians as numerous at Yarkand,
Urumtsi, Su-chow, Kan-chow, and all over the king-
dom of Tangut ; in Tenduc (the land of " Prester John,"
north-east of the Ortus), and cities eastward ; as well as
in Manchuria, and the countries bordering on Korea.

362 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

This brings us to the era of the Mongol supremacy,
under which Jinghiz Khan and his successors con-
quered everything and everybody from the Pacific
almost to the Baltic. Western Europe was quaking
in its shoes, when it occurred to the Pope and some
others to send messengers and missions to the Mongol
conquerors, inviting them to become Christians.
These messengers were the first Europeans to bring
news to the West of what we are now calling Chinese
Central Asia. The localities about which they
brought information will be indicated by the mention
of some of the routes they followed ; thus : —

In 1245 John de Piano Carpini proceeded by the
Syr-daria and seemingly by the shores of Lake Ala-
kul up the Irtish valley, and so through Sungaria to
Karakoram, the Mongol capital.

In 1253 Rubruquis started on a similar journey, of
which we have somewhat fuller details. From Alakul
he appears to have gone north-eastward towards the
Black Irtish, then to have ascended the river Urungu
towards Karakoram, where he remained six months.

In 1254 another traveller, King Hayton, or Hethum,
of Armenia, went to give in his allegiance to the
Mongol, Manghu Khan ; but he proceeded from the
Volga by a route north of that followed by the above
travellers, across the Ural river to the Irtish, and
up the valley of its head-waters. He returned from
Karakoram through Urumtsi and Sungaria to Almalik,
Talas, Otrar, Jizak, Samarkand, and Bokhara.

In 1 27 1, however, set out the most celebrated
traveller of his century, the merchant Marco Polo, who
from Badakshan crossed the Pamir plateau, and con-
tinued by way of Kashgar, Yarkand, Khotan, and
south of Lob-Nor to Tangut, and arrived in 1275 at

SOURCES OF OUR KNOWLEDGE. 363

Kubilai's court in China proper. He remained 17
years in China, and returned homewards by sea to the
Persian Gulf, bringing to Europe more information
about China than had been known in the West
before.

In the century following we have other merchants
making their way overland to China, as well as mis-
sionaries proper; for, in 1339, William of Modena, a
merchant, and certain friars were put to death at
Almalik. This we learn from a letter by Pascal, a
young Spanish Franciscan on a mission to Tatary,
and it is confirmed by Marignolli, who was one of an
embassy from the Pope to the Khan. The embassy
set out in 1338, and proceeded by the usual route
through Old Khiva to Almalik, where it arrived a year
after the martyrdom just mentioned, and where it
stayed some time, not arriving at Peking till 1342.

From a handbook of the fourteenth century (1330 —
1340), written by Pegolotti for traders to China, we
find it stated that from Otrar, on the Syr-daria, to
Almalik was 45 days' journey with pack-asses, and
from Almalik to Kan-chow 70 days.

In 14 1 9 we hear of a new route followed by an
embassy sent by Shah Rukh, or Rokh, son of Timur,
from Herat, through Samarkand to Tashkend, and
up the Hi and Yulduz valleys to Turfan and Hami,
whence they crossed to Su-chow.

It is more than 100 years after this (about 1550)
that we get the next notice, from a Persian merchant,
Haji Muhammad, who, in an after-dinner conversation
at Venice, indicates the return route from Kan-chow
to Kaotai as 6 days' journey ; thence to Su-chow 5
days, and Hami 15 more; from Hami to Turfan 13,
and from Turfan to Aksu 20 ; thence to Kashgar 20

364 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

days of wildest desert ; from Kashgar to Samarkand 25
days, and Bokhara 5 more.

We now come to the last of this series of authorities
in the person of Benedict Goes, who, in 1602, hoping
to discover by a land-journey whether China was one
and the same as Cathay, left Agra, and, proceeding
through Cabul and Badakshan, followed Marco Polo's
route over the Pamirs. He then descended upon Yengi
Hissar, and went on to Yarkand, whence he made an
excursion to Khotan, and, after his return, proceeded
to Aksu, thence to Hami, and in nine days to the
Great Wall, having discovered before reaching it that
China and Cathay were identical.

For the material of the foregoing sources of informa-
tion we are largely indebted to Sir Henry Yule, who,
in his Cathay and Marco Polo, brought together with
much labour the testimony of early authors, chiefly
Western, on China ; but since Yule wrote much addi-
tional light on the geography of Chinese Central Asia
during the Mongol supremacy has been given by Dr
Bretschneider in translations from Chinese records,
whence we learn that various Chinese travellers have
left narratives of what they saw in the " Western
Country," as they call the region we are speaking of.

Thus Ye-lii Ch'u-ts'ai, who accompanied Jinghiz
Khan as Minister to Persia, left behind an " account
of a journey to the West," called Si-yu-lu, from an
abstract of which it appears that in 12 19 this Minister
left Northern Shansi, and crossed the deserts of
Mongolia to the camp of Jinghiz Khan (probably at
Karakoram). Hence the army of Jinghiz crossed the
Great Altai Mountains for several hundred It to Han-
hai, thought by some to be a dried -up inland sea.
Urumtsi is mentioned to the south, and south of

SOURCES OF OUR KNOWLEDGE. 365

Urumtsi occurs Hami, and, as distant from Hami
3,000 or 4,000 /*, Khotan.

After crossing the Han-hai, they arrived at Bu-la,
or Pulad (not far from Lake Sairam, and probably in
the valley of the Borotola, south of which are named
the Borokhoro or Talki Mountains), and after leaving
these they arrived at Almalik. West of Almalik is
a large river named " Hi," and several hundred li
westward is Talas.

The abstract then speaks of Khodjend and other
towns of Ferghana, as well as Otrar, Samarkand,
Bokhara, and Urgenj — that is, Khiva. Southward are
mentioned Balkh and India, "where it is so hot that
a vessel of tin put in the sand melts immediately."
Mention is made of the realm to the north-west of
K'o-pu-ch'u (probably Russia). " In that country the
days [in summer] are long and the nights short. In
little more than the time necessary to cook a mutton
chop the sun rises again."

Another account, Pei-shi-ki, contains the narrative
of the envoy Wu-ku-sun, sent by the Chinese Emperor
in 1220 to sue for peace of Jinghiz Khan, who had
gone westwards. Wu-ku-sun, on passing the northern
frontier of China proper, proceeded along the Lin-shan
deserts of moving sand (south of Lob-Nor ?), passed
over the Tsung-ling, and was presented to Jinghiz.

His narrative mentions several tribes which can be
identified as then living in Central Asia, and he notices
several points about the region — such as lack of rain,
the roofs of the houses, and the yellow-dyed beards
of men — which appeared to him strange. However,
the geographical yield of his memoirs is not great.

I n the St-yu-kz, or Travels to the West, of K 'iu-ch *ang-
ch'un — a Taoist monk summoned to the court of Jinghiz

366 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Khan — we are more fortunate. " The Master " started
in 1 2 20 from Shan-tung with 19 disciples, one of
whom kept a diary. Leaving Peking, they crossed the
Mongolian desert to the upper waters of the Kerulun,
and, finding Jinghiz gone, were obliged to follow.

The monk seems then to have passed through
Uliassutai, across a horrible desert in Sungaria, to
Urumsti, to the south of which the party>saw "three
rugged mountain peaks supporting the heavens " (pro-
bably Bogdo-ola), not far beyond which Buddhists cease
and Muhammadans begin. Lake Sairam the Master
named " The Lake of Heaven," and descended the
Talki defile to Almalik.

The monk continued in pursuit of Jinghiz through
Talas, Samarkand, and the .Iron Gates to the Oxus,
being at last presented to the monarch in the moun-
tains of the Hindu Kush. The Master also visited
Balkh, and afterwards returned by the way he came to
the Altai Mountains, where he had left some of his
disciples in an extemporised monastery. They then
proceeded by a sandy road to the northern frontier
of Tangut, and entered China proper at Su-chow,
reaching home after an absence of three years.

The next Chinese traveller whose route westwards
we are to glance at is Ch'ang-te, who in 1259 was
despatched as envoy by Manghu Khan to his brother
Hulagu, who had just taken Baghdad. The narrative
of Ch'ang-te, called Si-ski-ki, relates his leaving Kara-
koram, crossing Han-hai, and coming to the Uliungur
and the lake now known by that name. Then he
comes to Emil in the region of Alakul, "where a
furious wind comes out from the hill and blows people
passing there into the lake." He then proceeds
through the Talki Pass to Almalik, Talas, Tashkend,

SOURCES OF OUR KNOWLEDGE. 367

Samarkand, and over the Oxus to Tabriz, where
Hulagu had fixed his residence.

The speciality of Ch'ang-te's narrative is that he
says more than his predecessors about the animals,
products, and customs of the Western countries ; whilst
his remarks take high rank as " travellers' tales."

Thus, of the lion of the West he says that " by
a blow with its tail it can seriously hurt men. When
it roars the sound comes out from the belly, and so
frightens horses that they pass blood instead of water."
" Dragon-horses," he adds, " exist in the Caspian,
provided with scales and horns. Hence they allow
no mares with colts to graze near the shore, since
the colts are drawn into the sea and do not return."

Most wonderful of all are the " sheep planted upon
hillocks," also a product of the Western countries.
" The people take the navel of a sheep, plant it in the
ground, and water it. When it hears thunder it grows,
the navel retaining connection with the ground. After
the beast has become full grown, they take a stick and
frighten it. Then the navel breaks off, and the sheep
begins to walk and eat grass."

Another of these " travellers' tales " states : " There
is a woman in those Western countries who under-
stands the language of horses, and can by this means
predict good or evil " ; after which Ch'ang-te concludes
with the observation that " Many other marvellous
things are seen there, but all cannot be reported ! "

The last of the Chinese translations given by Dr
Bretschneider is from the peregrinations of Ye-Lii-Hi-
liang, 1260-3. His wanderings, so far as they concern
us, begin at Su-chow, whence he walks over the Tian
Shan through winter snow to Urumtsi, and in the
summer crosses the river Manas to Emil and Pulad.

368 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Then, seemingly, he goes fighting to Kashgar, whence
he is recalled by Kubilai Khan as courier, and posts
through Kucha and Hami, across the desert, to the
Emperor's summer residence at Shang-tu.

Another Chinese authority to be mentioned here is
Tchuen-yuen, a Mandarin, who, living in the districts
of Barkul and Urumtsi, in 1778, in the 71st year
of his age, wrote Memoirs of the Western Countries,
which have recently been translated by M. Gueluy,
a Belgian missionary. References to his work will
be made hereafter.

Thus far, it will be observed, the sources of our
information concerning Chinese Central Asia have
come from west, east, and south. -Now we have to
notice Russian sources from the north. It was in 1579
that Yermak and his handful of Cossacks crossed the
Urals and defeated Kuchum Khan, prince of one of
several small khanates, into which the main horde of
Jinghiz Khan had been broken up. Tobolsk was
founded as a capital, whence in 70 years the Cossacks
pushed eastwards, partly conquering in 1620 the Buriat
Mongols, east of the Baikal.

Westwards, as early as 1 594, a fortress was built at
Tara on the Irtish, which brought the Russians into
military and commercial relations with the Kalmuks,
then masters of Sungaria. Some of their princes
asked the help of Russia, and it was through the
Kalmuk country, in 1655, that the Russians sent their
first embassy to Peking.

This was with a view to arrange a commercial
treaty, but the envoy refused to fall down and perform
the kotow before the Emperor, and was sent away
empty. In 1665 Baikoff, on a similar mission, left
Tobolsk, and spent the winter among the Kalmuks.

SOURCES OF OUR KNOWLEDGE. 369

Thence he proceeded to Lake Zaisan and up the Black
Irtish to China, but was no more successful in nego-
tiating a treaty than his predecessor.

In 1684 Russia and China came to blows on the
Amur, and some of the Russians were taken prisoners
to Peking, which they liked so well that, on peace
being proclaimed, they did not care to return, but
asked for priests to be sent to minister to them there.
This led to priests being sent at intervals of ten years,
and thus the Russians learned more of the country
through which these ecclesiastics travelled, and added
to their scholars several illustrious sinologues.

Soon after, we find Prince Gagarine, in 171 3,
sending a gentleman of Tobolsk, named Trouchni-
koff, to China across Little Bokhara, as it was then
called, to gather information about gold dust. He
visited Koko-Nor; the Altingol, or river of gold, which
forms the source of the Hoang-ho ; the Chinese towns
of Sining and Daba ; and in 1716 returned, by way of
Kalgan, to Tobolsk.

He brought about 20 lbs. of gold dust, which so
excited the cupidity of Peter the Great that he ordered
a line of forts to be built from the Irtish to Yarkand,
whence the gold was said to come. Accordingly,
in 1 718, as a first step, the fortress of Semipolatinsk
was built, and Urasof and Somof surveyed the shores
of Lake Zaisan and the banks of the Upper and Lower
Irtish. The death of Peter the Great stayed the
building of forts, but Semipolatinsk grew into a place
of trade, and in 181 1 the Russians obtained facilities
to trade also at Chuguchak and Kuldja, where in 1851
Russian factories and consuls were established.

Meanwhile, rays of scientific light had been thrown
on the mysterious Sungarian country. In 1793 the

vol. 1. 24

370 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Russian botanist Sivers penetrated to the Tarbagatai
Mountains, whilst the mining engineer Sneghiroff
penetrated to Chuguchak searching for gold ; and in
1828 Humboldt reached the Chinese picket of Baty
on the Irtish, collected itineraries from Asiatic traders
at Semipolatinsk, and, with the help from these and
materials from Chinese sources, made some shrewd
guesses at the geography of Sungaria.

In 1 87 1, however, the Hi valley came into possession
of the Russians for 12 years, which period was fruitful
in explorations in Sungaria. In 1875 Sosnovsky re-
turned from Central China, passing through Hami,
Barkul, and Guchen to Lake Zaisan, an account being
written by Piassetzky, one of the mission. In 1876
Pevtsoff travelled from the Zaisan to Guchen by way
of Bulun Tokoi, near Lake Uliungur ; and Potanins
expedition set out from Zaisan to Kobdo, passing by
Bulun Tokoi, and in the following year arrived at
Hami and Uliassutai. Also, in 1879, Regel travelled
from Kuldja, by way of Shikho, to Turfan. The
latest of Russian travellers are the brothers Grum-
Grjimailo, who have recently returned from a journey
to the Sungarian oases of the Tian Shan, which
they crossed, and explored the country for 70 miles
south of Turfan.

Turning our attention a little farther west, we have
in 1 82 1 Bubeinoff, a merchant, travelling from Semi-
polatinsk to Kashgar, and in 1859 Captain Valikhanoff,
in the disguise of a Khokand trader, crossing the Tian
Shan by Lake Issik-Kul, and likewise reaching Kash-
gar; whilst in 1876 we have Kuropatkin's expedition
crossing from Ferghana to Kashgar, on a political
mission to Yakub Khan, and continuing eastwards
through Maralbashi, Aksu, Bai, and Kurla, besides

SOURCES OF OUR KNOWLEDGE. 371

making journeys by the Bedal Pass to Kara-Kol, and
through Karashar to Lake Bagratsh.

To these I may add the journey of Dr Seeland in
1886 from Vierny to Kashgar, Aksu, and by the Bedal
to Kara-Kol, to whose narrative I am indebted in several
directions. Of the Russian scientists to whom we owe
information about the mountain district round Issik-
Kul (ceded to Russia in i860 by the treaty of Peking)
I say nothing here, but may refer my readers to what
I have written in Russian Central Asia.

But the Russian who towers above all others, as does
Marco Polo among his contemporaries, and to whom
we are most indebted for information on trans-mural
China, is General Prjevalsky. Whilst on military
service in the sea-coast province of Siberia, his first
rambles were in the Manchurian forests.

In 1 87 1-3 he made his first great expedition from
Kiakhta across Mongolia to Kalgan, whence he turned
westward by Hue's route to Kansu, visiting Koko-
Nor and the salt marsh of Tsaidam, and pushing south-
wards to within 500 miles of Lassa. Lack of resources
obliged him to turn back. In returning he crossed the
Gobi in its widest part between Din-yuan-ing and Urga.

In 1876 Prjevalsky set out from Kuldja up the Yulduz
valley, crossing the Tian Shan to Karashar and the
Tarim, which he followed to Lake Lob. Then, con-
tinuing southwards, he discovered the Altyn Tagh
range rising almost precipitously and forming the most
northerly range of the Tibetan plateau.

In 1879 he started again, this time well supplied
with funds, from Lake Zaisan along the Uliungur, or
Urungu, and Bulgun, whence he crossed the desert of
Sungaria, passed the salt lake and plain of Barkul, over
a pass of the Tian Shan, 8,700 feet high, and descended

372 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

to Hami. Thence he crossed the desert to Sa-chu,
passed over the Altyn Tagh, continued east of Tsai-
dam, and then descended in a south-westerly direction
towards Lassa, which he approached to within 170
miles, but was turned back by the authorities.

In his fourth great journey, 1883-5, Prjevalsky
crossed the Gobi from Urga to Ala-shan, through
Sining to Eastern Tsaidam. From hence he made
an excursion to the sources of the Yellow River, and
then marched westwards along a wide valley, which he
named " The Valley of the Winds," stretching for 150
miles between the Kuen Lun on the south and the
Chaman Tagh on the north, and closed westwards by
a range connecting the Kuen Lun and the Altyn Tagh.
Prjevalsky crossed the Altyn Tagh south of Lob-Nor,
and travelled through Cherchen and Keria to Khotan.
Thence he tried to ascend the Kuen Lun, but failed
from physical difficulties, as he gave me to understand,
and then, turning homewards, followed the rivers
Khotan and Aksu to the Bedal Pass and Kara-Kol.

Thus, for accurate and scientific knowledge of
extra-mural China, we are chiefly indebted to Russian
travellers, but not for the first map of Chinese Central
Asia. Peter the Great sent some of his prisoners,
taken at Pultava, to Siberia, and among them a
Swedish sergeant named Renat, who, tired of nothing
to do at Tobolsk, asked to be allowed to take part
in the expedition of Bukholtz, sent in 17 16 to recon-
noitre Sungaria.

The force, however, was captured by Kalmuks,
amongst whom Renat lived in captivity 17 years.
In similar captivity, in various parts of the country,
were several Russian officers, whose description of
their journeys, supplemented by inquiries from the

SOURCES OF OUR KNOWLEDGE. 373

natives, gave Muller much of his geographical infor-
mation of countries bordering Siberia ; but to Renat
belongs the honour of drawing up the first map,
based largely on personal observations, of Sungaria
and the Tarim valley.

On his return to Sweden, the map was copied five
years afterwards, and has recently been published in St
Petersburg, a copy in facsimile now lying before me.

The map is not correct as to astronomical indications,
and distances are too great ; but these defects are
counterbalanced by careful delineation of political
boundaries, lakes, rivers, mountains, deserts, forests,
towns, the camps of the nomads, and, above all, their
royal tents. Some of the 250 Swedish inscriptions
are descriptive. Thus, at Issik-Kul we read "here is
found iron sand," and in the forest of Ebinor " here
are wild camels," whilst at Keria is written "here
they find gold."

At the beginning of the eighteenth century, under
orders of the Emperor, the Jesuits surveyed China
generally, and their map of 1 7 1 8 was subsequently en-
larged in Europe to include the Trans-Caspian country,
and published by D'Anville in 1 737. After the depopu-
lation of Sungaria, the Chinese Emperor sent there,
in 1 760, Jesuit missionaries, by whom trigonometrical
points were determined north and south of the eastern
Tian Shan, and on the south shore of Issik-Kul.
Their labours were added to their predecessors* map
of China and contiguous countries, after which Klap-
voth drew up and published his map of Central Asia,,
which was in Europe the chief geographical manual
of this region until the recent researches and imprints
made by the Russians.

We come now to our last source of information,

374 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

chiefly English. The way to Sungaria from the East
was led by Mr Ney Elias, who in 1872 crossed
Mongolia from Kuei-hwa-cheng to Uliassutai, through
Kobdo, and thence passed the frontier into Siberia,
near Suok, and down the valley of the Katun to Biisk.
The last Englishman in Sungaria, known to me, is
Mr St George Littledale, who, with Mrs Littledale,
made up their caravan, as he informs me, at Zaisan,
crossed the Chinese frontier, and shot in the mountains
south of Kobdo, whence they continued south towards
Kuldja, and, turning back to Chuguchak, re-entered
Russia near Sergiopol.

The Hi valley was visited, as I have indicated, when
in possession of the Russians, by Ashton Dilke and
Schuyler in 1873, Delmar Morgan in 1880, and myself
in 1882, but none of us crossed what was then the
Chinese frontier, this little sprig of laurel, of being the
first Englishman to enter China from the West, being
left seemingly for me to cull in 1888.

This brings us, lastly, to Chinese Turkistan, into
which Adolf Schlagintweit penetrated in 1857. The
first Englishman known to have reached the valley
was Mr Johnson, who, in 1865, was engaged on
topographical work in Kashmir, and, making his way
towards Khotan, was kindly received by the ruler
Habibullah. Three years afterwards, in 1868, Mr
Shaw, a tea-planter, and Mr Hay ward, an explorer,
made their way over the Himalayas to Kashgar, and
were well received by Yakub Khan, Mr Shaw return-
ing in safety, but Hay ward being murdered at Yasin.

In the same year a Russian embassy, under Captain
Reintal, arrived at Kashgar. England and Russia
were now bidding for the goodwill of Yakub Khan,
and the former sent an embassy under Mr Forsyth,

SOURCES OF OUR KNOWLEDGE. 375

with Henderson and Shaw, the trio going as far as
Yarkand, whilst, two years later, another Russian
embassy, under Kaulbars, was received at Kashgar.

Then was made up, in the following year, Forsyth's
second embassy, consisting of between 30 and 40
officers and soldiers, who carefully surveyed routes
and collected information of the mountain region
between India and the Tarim valley, and made their
way from Yarkand round the valley as far as Maral-
bashi ; besides sending native explorers to Khotan,
and making excursions to the Pamirs and the moun-
tains north of Kashgar. Their information was
printed in a bulky quarto volume, but not published,
and has proved to me a valuable storehouse of material
for the portion of country covered by the expedition.

And thus matters stood when the Chinese re-con-
quered the country in 1877-8. In 1879 Mr Ney Elias
went to Yarkand on political duty, arranging, among
other things, for the passage to and fro of traders from
India, whilst in 1882 I met M. Petrovsky at St Peters-
burg, about to proceed to Kashgar to reside as Russian
Consul.

Two years later, however, from 1885-7, Mr Carey,
with Dalgleish as assistant, accomplished by far the
grandest journey that has been made in Chinese
Turkistan. Leaving Ladak, they descended upon
Keria, passed along the Khotan river to the Tarim
and Lob- Nor; then over the Altyn Tagh and along
the Kuen Lun to East Tsaidam, and northward to
Hami ; then westwards by the high road to Maral-
bashi, whence they turned south to Yarkand, Mr Carey
reaching India after an absence of two years.

In 1887 a^so were performed two remarkable journeys
from Peking by Colonel Mark Bell and Lieutenant

376 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA,

(now Captain) Younghusband. Younghusband, as
already stated, took the northern route outside the
Wall, and Colonel Bell the cart-route, to Hami.
Thence Younghusband proceeded by the ordinary
road to Toksun, Bell going to the same point by
way of Barkul and Urumtsi. From Toksun both
followed the same route to Aksu ; but thence reached
Kashgar, Younghusband through Ush-Turfan and Bell
through Maralbashi. Lastly, proceeding to Yarkand,
Bell crossed by the Karakoram and Younghusband by
the Muz-Tag to Kashmir. Captain Younghusband
has since spent a winter at Kashgar, and has broken
new ground towards the Pamirs.

Two later travellers in Chinese Turkistan are
Major C. Cumberland and Lieutenant Bower, who, in
August 1890, crossed the Karakoram, and from Kilian
turned westwards towards Sarikol, meeting Captain
Grombchevsky, after which they reached Yarkand.

Mr Bower had taken in hand the detection of
Dalgleish's murderer (of whom more hereafter), and
left for Kashgar ; but Major Cumberland was bent
on shooting, for which purpose he crossed the desert
to Maralbashi, and then turned eastward to Aksu and
onwards a certain distance in the direction of Lob-
Nor. Returning to Maralbashi, he reached Kashgar,
and then proceeded up the Gez defile to the Pamirs,
and over into Ferghana, particulars of which are given
in his letters on " Sport on the Pamir Steppes," which
appeared in Land and Water.

Later expeditions of Grombchevsky and Prjevalsky
will be noticed hereafter, but having now indicated the
principal sources of our information and the stages by
which they have become known to us, I shall continue
my own narrative of travel through Chinese Turkistan.

CHAPTER XXIV.

FROM AKSU TO MARALBASHI.

Two roads to Kashgar; Northern through Ush-Turfan, followed by
Younghusband, 377. — District of Ush-Turfan ; its people and
capital, 378. — Aksai valley and Kirghese nomads, 379. — Our
departure by southern route, 380. — March to Chinese city of
Aksu, 381. — Fording the Janart river, and shooting birds, 383. —
Ride to Sai-Aryk, 384.— Stormy weather, 385.— Night travel through
Chilan to district of Maralbashi, 386. — Sunday at Yaka Kuduk;
A Chinese official, 387. — Undesirable companions, 388. — March to
Chadir-Kul, 389.— Its birds and buildings, 390. — Pheasants and
Podoces, 391. — Scriptures at Turn Chuk, 393. — Arrival at Char-
wagh, visited by Biddulph for shooting, 394. — Antiquities between
Charwagh and Maralbashi, 395.

FROM Aksu to Kashgar we had a choice of two
roads, — one through Ush-Turfan, skirting the
mountains ; and the other through Maralbashi, crossing
the plains. Osman Bai, with an eye doubtless to free
pasture for his horses, would have been pleased to
take the former. He depicted in alluring colours the
verdure and cool air of the hills, and on the other hand
dilated on the stifling heat and mosquitoes of the
plains, together with enforced travel by night to
escape the horse-flies. Probably he foresaw also that
he would have to purchase fodder from station to
station. Inasmuch, however, as my chief interest lay
amongst the people of the country rather than pretty
scenery, and the southern route was the more populous,

378 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

it needed but a moment's consideration to decide in its
favour.

We may briefly glance, nevertheless, at the northern
road. The route from Aksu to Kashgar through
Ush-Turfan is about the same length as through
Maralbashi, but is not, like the southern route,
practicable for carts, the ascents beyond Ush-Turfan
being sometimes difficult even for horsemen.

Captain Younghusband followed this route in
August 1887, and calls it the pleasantest part of his
whole journey. He describes the area between Aksu
and Ush-Turfan as level, and cultivated with rice — the
best, it is said, in the country — and watered by the
Janart and Aksu streams. The latter is crossed about
seven miles on the way. Beyond, the traveller passes
through Saik, the village of Barin (where clover,
barley, and fuel can . be had), and along a good road
through an inhabited country past Yaz-jigda, Akyar,
and the village of Acha-Tag to Ush-Turfan.

Ush-Turfan is the chief town of a district lying north-
east of the district of Kashgar, and separated therefrom
by a range of mountains running east from the Terekti
Pass, and called the Balauti range — the irregular chain
of hills which shuts off" the Ush-Turfan valley from the
plains. The limits of the district are Kakshal on
the west and the Aksu river on the east, the Bedal
mountain on the north and the Balauti ridge on the
south.

The western half of the valley is occupied by the
Kirghese pastures of Kakshal, through which flows
the Aksai, Tushkan, or Kizil-Kungai river, running
down from the valley east of Chadir-Kul, lying at
an elevation of 11,000 feet. The population of the
eastern end of the valley, which is agricultural, is

FROM AKSU TO MAR ALB A SHI 379

quoted by Forsyth as living in 2,000 houses. Farm-
steads are scattered over the valley, but the principal
settlements are Safr Bai, Karawul, Akyar, Acha-Tag,
and Aral.

Sheep, cattle, and horses are very numerous, the fine
wool of the sheep being woven by the Kirghese for
home use, and also exported to Aksu, to which place
the trade relations of the valley are said by Forsyth to
be limited, though I have met with the statement that
the fine wool alluded to makes its way over the
Himalayas for the manufacture of the well-known
Kashmir shawls.

The capital of Ush-Turfan had formerly a strong
little castle, but it was destroyed with the town in
1765, and the people massacred by the Chinese for
revolt in favour of a Khoja rebellion. Forsyth calls
it an open market town of 800 houses, peopled by
descendants of Taranchis, planted here by the Chinese
after the massacre. Under Yakub Khan it had a
garrison of 300 men. Sunarguloff, in 1877, mentions
Mondays and Thursdays as market-days. The present
Chinese fortress is situated at the foot of a rocky pre-
cipitous hill, about 1 50 feet high, with a small guard-
post at the top. Near the fort are about 50 houses
and a row of shops.

From Ush-Turfan, Younghusband continued to
ascend the Aksai valley for three days. At seven miles
west of the town is Bashagma, whence there branches
off a pack-road to the Bedal Pass, put down by Sunar-
guloff" at 1 5,000 feet above the sea. The main road
continues to Safr Bai, whence also goes a caravan road
northward over the Bedal Pass to the source of the
Narim, and then across the Zauka Pass to Issik-Kul.

West of Safr the valley contracts, and the road

380 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

passes for 30 miles through dense forests of poplar,
which clothe the river banks. The little farm settle-
ments are for the most part left behind, and the
country is now entirely inhabited by Kirghese, amongst
whom the traveller must not depend on getting pro-
visions other than mutton.

At the end of three days, presumably from Akchi,
Younghusband turned south-west from the valley over
the Belowti Pass (1 1,000 feet), another road continuing
up the valley and crossing the range farther west at
Saribeli in the direction of Kashgar. The ascent of
the Belowti Pass is spoken of as quite easy, whilst the
descent brought our explorer into a region that had
been traversed by Captain Trotter and Dr Stoliczka,
when members of the Forsyth mission.

Descending from the Pass over a stony plain,
Younghusband found his way to the Sirt country,
which consists of large plains, covered in some places
by woods of considerable extent, and surrounded by
hills. There were seen also large fields of wheat
grown by the Kirghese, who were left behind at Kalti
Ailak, 50 miles from Kashgar, where the road quits
the hills and descends into the plains through the rich
district of Artish.

By this northern route, presumably, the Tautai of
Kashgar expected me to travel, for it afterwards
transpired that he sent a packet of letters to meet me ;
whereas, for reasons already stated, we had chosen the
southern route, and the day of our departure — Tues-
day, August 2 1 st — was marked by considerable activity
on the premises of Madamin, Bai, where many persons
assembled to watch our preparations, and to accom-
pany us out of the town.

We did not start till after midday, the Afghans,

FROM AKSU TO MARALBASHL 381

Andijanis, and others swelling our cavalcade. After
filing through the western gate of the town, called
Sabun-Kabuk, we continued along a 15-foot road,
embanked from one to two feet, traversing rice-fields,
and presently reached a cliff from 20 to 30 feet high.
Under this the road became broad and sandy, and in
about an hour ascended by a gully to an elevated plain
of a sandy clay soil. Riding along, we had a pretty
view of the trees and greenery of the oasis below.

That, I told them, was something like England,
only they must picture our island green all over, and
not with mere patches of verdure and huge deserts
between. No doubt they thought it must be a grand
country, and consequently its people grand too ; for
as we met mounted natives who did not at first realise
the importance of the encounter, our escort, like new
brooms, cleared the way, and shouted ahead, not
" Bow the knee ! " but " Get down ! get down ! " — an
order that was immediately obeyed, the horsemen
standing at attention till the cavalcade had passed.

Thus, after descending again to the cultivated plain,
and passing through gardens, huts, and habitations
which to besiegers would give cover up to its walls,
we came to the Chinese city, where at a wayside
restaurant we took a parting snack of refreshment.
Monkey-face and Tor-jee had put in an appearance,
and accompanied us thus far. They now came for-
ward to bid us good-bye, which they did after their
manner, Monkey-face gloomily and Tor-jee with smiles.

Their places were filled by two Chinese soldiers
from the Tautai of Aksu, and the Russian Aksakal
also attached to our caravan two men, one of them
named Sarim Sak ; so that with the arbakesh and
interpreter, his cart and four animals, together with

382 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

the mullah and Osman Bai and his helpers, we made
a party of about 30 horses and more than a dozen
men. At Yengi-shahr our complimentary escort re-
turned, and we had the rest of the afternoon to reach
our first station of Choktal, or Chuk-Tal Rabat, which
we did about five hours after setting out, and at a
distance, it was said, of 40 It, or, according to Kuro-
patkin, 13 miles, from Aksu.

The serai where we stayed was an extremely poor
one — the arba being preferred by one of the party as
a sleeping-place — so that we had no inducement to
linger next morning, but started a little before seven
o'clock ; that is, according to my poor watch, which,
being a common one for rough travelling, varied some-
times, and was found, on our arrival at Kashgar, to
have lost two hours since we left Kuldja. The road,
from 20 to 30 feet wide, and lined by trees, all of recent
growth, passed through a well-cultivated valley of
fertile clay, bordered on the south, a mile distant, by a
low cliff of clay, and on the north, five miles away, by
barren hills.

Colonel Bell, the only Englishman preceding me
along the whole of this route from Aksu to Kashgar,
and to whose practised eye I am indebted for many
items of information, read to the Royal Geographical
Society a paper now before me. He speaks therein
of the distance from Aksu to the river Janart as 3
miles, which may mean either that we did not cross at
the same spot, or, more probably, the 3 is a misprint
for 13.

We had not ridden far from Choktal before we came
to the first of several branch streams, each from 100 to
200 feet wide, which were forded. On coming to the
main stream, about 300 yards wide, we crossed in a

FROM AKSU TO MARALBASHI. 383

ferry, though the water could not have been very
deep, since one poor woman — unable, I suppose, to pay
toll, or coming too late — had solved the difficulty by
hoisting her garments aloft and wading through.

The Janart rises, as the Sariasi, immediately be-
neath the southern slopes of Khan Tengri, and, after
being joined by several nameless streams in the Tian
Shan, runs towards Aksu, where it is joined by another
river of that name. After this, the united stream flows
for 70 miles till it joins the Tarim.

The Aksu, when in flood, cannot be crossed in
arbas, for the current is so swift as sometimes to wash
horses and passengers away. Where we crossed, the
shallow river bed, with banks perpendicular in places
and 12 feet high, is about three-quarters of a mile
wide, and, what with fording and ferrying, it took us
a long time to get over. From the ferry the country
in sight down-stream was under cultivation.

The delay in crossing, and subsequent opportunities
on the road, gave occasion for shooting, and there
were added to my collection two long-billed water-
birds from the river bed ; also two sparrow-hawks and
a rook, a wood sandpiper (Totanus glareola), a shrike
(Lantus orenartus), and a hoopoe {Upupa epops\ as
well as a specimen of Seebohm's lark (Alaudula
Seebohmi) and a Kentish ring-plover (/Egialites
cantianus).*

There was a little rain during the morning, which
made our ride a cool one, and we stayed for lunch at

* The Kentish ring-plover, called by the Turkis "Chullok," is, ac-
cording to Dr Scully, " a seasonal visitant to the plains of Chinese
Turkistan, arriving about the end of March, and disappearing in
winter. It frequents stony ground and efflorescent wastes, always [as
I observed] in the neighbourhood of shallow pools of water. When
disturbed it appears to take only short flights, but runs very nimbly/ '

384 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

a village called Besharik-Ustan. Thence we marched
through cultivated country, well wooded, with abundant
pasture, over a road sometimes sandy, and narrowing
occasionally to ten feet by reason of rough culverts of
trees laid horizontally over the many canals by which
the country is irrigated. About five hours from start-
ing we came to Kum-bash, alias Gouai-Urten — 60 /s,
it was said, from the Chinese town of Aksu — with a
station vastly better than the one we left in the morning,
and where we stayed for the night.

A march next day of only three hours brought us to
Sai- (or Soi-) Aryk. Bell mentions at 20 miles from
Aksu a large village of 500 Turki families, called
I -crow, where he crossed a stream 50 to 60 yards wide
by a rough combination of earthen piers and water-
ways. I have no note of this village ; but we passed
half-way, through Ai-kul, situated in a depression, and
mentioned by Kuropatkin as marshy in spring.

As we rode through the street I caught sight of a
man sitting behind a basket of nectarines, and told
Joseph to buy the lot, which he did at the ruinous
price of four for a charik> or, say, a penny for 35, and
better nectarines I think I never ate ! We continued
onward by a good road lined on both sides, as on the
previous stage, with trees, including the willow, poplar,
mulberry, andjigda, or wild olive ; and in the gardens
we noticed the walnut. Here the men were set to
butterfly-catching, which they did not enter into with
the zest displayed in the mountains by Monkey-face
and Tor-jee, though several specimens were secured.

On arriving at Sai- Aryk, which we did by ten o'clock,
we took up our quarters in a poor little serai once
occupied, Muhammad the Aksakal told me, by Mr
Carey. His luggage, they said, was placed in the

FROM AKSU TO MARALBASHL 385

room I occupied, a restoration having taken place in
the interim. It was a sorry place, however, and soon
after our arrival, notwithstanding our being in what is
called a rainless region, there came on a violent thunder-
storm, with hailstones as large as a starlings egg — the
largest, I think, I ever saw.

The rain poured down in such torrents that an old
serving-man on the place declared he had never wit-
nessed the like, and the water found its way by the
chimney only too freely into my room. This cooled
the night temperature indoors to a maximum of 730
and a minimum of 650 ; whereas the night before, on
my window-sill at Kum-bash, the maximum had reached
io° higher.

The storm cleared the atmosphere, so that our atten-
tion was called next morning to the snowy peaks of
the Tian Shan, which the map shows to have been
1 10 miles off, Khan Tengri lying nearly due north.
A reason, too, was suggested for the Chinese name,
" The Mountains of Heaven," since their base was lost
in azure, blue as the vault above, and the snow-tops
appeared to float like clouds.

I attempted to photograph this lovely phenomenon,
but succeeded in portraying only the maize-field and
trees in the foreground. I was more fortunate, how-
ever, in securing a good view of the tiny bridge that
stretches over a small stream giving life to the village
of 130 Turki families, a crowd of whom came out to
see what the foreigner with his camera was doing.

We stayed at Sai-Aryk till three in the afternoon to
gather up our forces for a march through the night
over two stages, on the alleged ground of scarcity of
fodder and bad water at the next station. On leaving
the village we passed through flooded rice-fields, with

vol. 1. 25

386 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

many gulls flying about. After several fruitless shots
one was secured as a specimen ; but my gun failed to
bring down what looked like a birkut eagle that had
descended to the plains.

Within an hour we left cultivation and entered a
desert, at first with low brushwood, and then with
sparse tamarisk shrubs only. We were at an elevation
of 3.500 feet, and at ten miles from Sai-Aryk the soil
became saline. Five hours riding brought me to Choi
Kuduk, decidedly tired, so that I was glad to give my
horse to Mr Interpreter, and turn into his cart for the
rest of the stage. Thus proceeding, we passed through
Shor Kuduk (or Shur Kurduck), and at four o'clock in
the morning reached Chilan, or Chilian, where the
baggage horses had arrived an hour before.

I did not take at all kindly to this travelling through
the night, and felt so fatigued that I began to suspect
that I was growing less able than formerly to endure
hardness. Moreover, at Chilan — a hamlet of 25 poor
houses, with a little cultivation — I had a miserable
room, and the water was bad, so that I was the less
sorry to hear that Osman Bai wanted to start afresh in
the afternoon, and do two stages more.

Accordingly, we set out at six, and at dusk I got into
the cart, which was less fatiguing than the saddle, but
slower, for the road was sandy.

We now entered the district of Maralbashi, the
western border of which is a wide sandy desert joining
the Kashgar district at Yangi-Awat, whilst to the north
it extends to Kalpin, on the Aksu river, and descends
southwards to the river of Yarkand.

Towards midnight we came to Jaida, or Jaidi, with
a little chi grass growing about the station, where were
ten huts, peopled in winter ; but the inhabitants, except

FROM AKSU TO MAR ALB A SHI. 387

those at the station, were now gone with their cattle
to the mountains. Here we stopped to feed the cart-
horses, and then plunged into a muddy road, in which
the cart stuck, and we found the advantage of having
with us a small company to get us out. The ground
is here rendered swampy by a stream from the barren
and snowless hills from 20 to 30 miles to the north-west.

At 16 miles from Chilan the route became heavy
among sand-hills, and at two miles farther on we came
upon some species of poplar trees called tograk.
These, later on, thickened into a wood. Thus we
travelled on heavily all through the night, and not
until six the next morning did we reach Yaka Kuduk,
though the baggage arrived somewhat earlier.

At Yaka Kuduk we spent Sunday, the place con-
sisting of 15 houses, in the midst of tamarisk and
tograk trees, with a population in winter of 50 inhabi-
tants. There was also a good-sized station with a
resident Chinese official of superior appearance, who
was well behaved and disposed to be helpful.

I invited him to my room, gave him illuminated
cards, tickets, etc., and sold him portions of Scripture.
He offered to give me fodder, which I declined with
thanks, but submitted to him the question whether
the innkeeper was not extortionate in asking seven
chariks a bundle — that is, seven times the price we had
paid for fodder at Aksu. He agreed with me that
this charge was excessive, but thought five times not
too much, since food had to be imported from afar.

Again, one of the Chinese escort was found to have
been feeding his horse at my expense, which perhaps
was not unreasonable, and at first I submitted, where-
upon his fellow began to follow suit. Upon my
mentioning the matter to this official, however, he

388 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

said the escort could claim nothing from me since they
were granted a travelling allowance from their Tautai,
and anything I might give was a matter of grace.

Both men upon this acknowledged themselves
wrong, and undertook to provide in future far their
beasts. I had also to call to order one of the Turki
djiguitts for stealing my nectarines ; but, with the
exception of these little peculations, and considering
what a bad lot Chinese soldiers proverbially are, affairs
moved along smoothly enough.

There was, however, another matter in which I had
to ask this Chinaman's help. Soon after leaving Sai-
Aryk, we overtook in the desert a horseman who
turned out to be a policeman, a horsewoman who was
his prisoner, and a cart carrying the woman's father,
with, I think, some other members of the family.

Salutations were exchanged as a matter of course,
and, remembering the loneliness and dangers of the
way, it was natural for this small party to try and keep
up with ours, which they accordingly did, conversa-
tion and jokes flowing apace, and the pipe passing
round, in all of which the woman was not backward
in taking her part. She was young and good-looking
— not yet out of her teens — stylishly dressed and un-
veiled, and mounted upon a fairly good horse, said to
be her own. Joseph told me she was of evil reputa-
tion, on her way to the prison at Maralbashi, and then
probably to Kashgar to be put to death.

I did not much like this set of companions for my
caravan ; but, whether I would or would not, when
we stopped they stopped, when we moved they moved,
and thus we came to Yaka Kuduk, both parties putting
up at the one inn of the place. Looking about the
yard in the afternoon, I was invited into a room and

FROM AKSU TO MARALBASHI. 389

offered tea, and here was this woman smoking opium.
She appeared also from time to time chatting and
smoking with my men, of which I took no ostensible
notice, until information reached me that a rumour
was going about to the effect that this woman was the
travelling companion of my servant Joseph.

Doubting whereunto this might grow, and not
knowing upon whom the calumny might next fall, I
sent for the official and explained the situation, where-
upon he kindly cut the knot for me by sending her
party another way, and I saw no more of her until
inspecting the prison at Maralbashi.

We had heard a great deal of the numbers of
pheasants we should see on the way, and at Yaka
Kuduk my men came more than once to call my
attention to coveys of these birds a few yards only
from the station. Next morning I breakfasted on the
first pheasant shot by my own gun. For some reason,
however, of momentary inconvenience I excused
Joseph from dressing the skin ; but with the result
that, though we more than once saw pheasants after-
wards, I did not get one for my collection.

Osman Bai wanted to start again on Sunday after-
noon and travel through the night, which I declined,
and we left next morning at seven for a four hours'
march to Chadir-Kul, passing on the way a ruined fort,
built by Yakub Khan. Here Bell, a month earlier,
found the horse-flies so troublesome as to render night
travel imperative. The heavy sandy track lay through
a forest of tograk, with occasional ponds, and after
1 1 miles we passed through a jungle of tamarisks, low
shrubs, and trees.

When one speaks, however, of " forests " the reader
must not call to mind the density of an Indian jungle,

390 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

for I rarely saw underwood in Chinese Turkistan so
thick as that of a Kentish copse, whilst all the trees
I saw put together — they rarely exceeded 12 or 1 8
inches in diameter — would hardly make such a show
of timber as exists in Greenwich Park. I found one
of my ornithological acquaintances at the British
Museum picturing, in the Tarim basin, dense, bound-
less forests, providing a resting-place for half the birds
of the world. I should rather call the Tarim forests
straggling collections of trees, through which one could
usually march a cavalry regiment.

Around Chadir-Kul were a few cultivated fields,
and chi grass was plentiful. There was also near at
hand (as the name of the place implies) a lake, formed
by the overflow of the stream we had first seen at
Yaka Kuduk, and which, from Chadir-Kul, flows
southward for a distance altogether of about 50 miles
into the river of Kashgar, near its confluence with the
river of Yarkand.

Two men were sent to the lake, but in vain, to
procure me specimens of fish. Meanwhile I took my
gun, and secured a shrike (Lanius arenartus), two
crested larks {GaUrita cristata et G. magna), having
also shot a few bijds on the way, but not so many as
report had led me to hope for.

I took with the camera a view, outside the village,
of a pretentious clay-built mausoleum of a local magnate,
one Osman Ming-bashi, or Captain of a thousand. It
consisted of a large domed building with pishtak, sur-
rounded by a mud wall with gateway ; and as it had
been built only the previous year, it was in fair order,
and gave one an idea of what the tombs of the rich
men of the country are like. A view was also taken
of the village street, which possesses nine houses and

FROM AKSU TO MARALBASHJ. 391

six serais, a Chinese military station or fort, a tiny
Buddhist temple beneath a lofty tree, and an earthen
mile-post.

Declining again to travel by night, we left Chadir-
Kul at four in the morning, which meant rising at the
uncomfortable hour of two. Outside the village we
ascended among sand-hills, and near a copse sighted
a fine cock pheasant, and a few minutes afterwards two
deer, the only specimens of this animal that we came
across all through the country, and these quickly made
themselves scarce.

Of course I could not leave the caravan to stalk
them, and had to content myself with a pair of antlers
of a maral stag, appropriately purchased at Maralbashi
from a man who obtained them four months previously
from Turn Chuk, where the original owner had been
eaten by a tiger. They are now in the Museum of
Natural History at South Kensington.

I shot, however, in the morning an ornithological
prize. Professor Newton, of Cambridge, as well as
people at the British Museum, had bidden me be on
the look-out for a bird comparatively rare in European
collections, called Podoces, of which four varieties are
known {Podoces Panderi, P. Hendersoni, P. humilisy
et P. Biddulphi)*

From the illustration and description of Podoces
Hendersoni in Lahore to Yarkand, 1 make no doubt

* This genus, Mr Dresser tells me, is characteristic of the region, being
confined to the steppe country, and up to the present time ornithologists
are undecided as to where the genus Podoces should be placed. For
his own part, he believes it to come nearest to the jays, though very
different from them. Hume, in Lahore to Yarkand, remarks of Hen-
derson's Podoces that in its external form this species most nearly
resembles the choughs; with which, following Buonaparte, he places
it, and not with the jays or magpies.

3Q2 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

it was this variety of which we saw several between
Yaka Kuduk and Chadir-Kul.*

The Podoces are spoken of as habitually fluttering
and flapping about in the sand, laving their feathers
in it after the manner of fowls, or like some of the
Babblers (Malacocerci), commonly called in India
" dust birds." The Turki name " Kum-tuche " is
said to mean " sand bird." Those we saw were always
in the desert and sandy places, but I think not always
in pairs, as Henderson observed near Sanju.

They moved about from one sand-hill to another, and
impressed themselves on my memory by the speed at
which they ran. They were slow to rise on the wing,
but would lead me a chase for hundreds of yards, and
generally succeeded in keeping out of range till I shot
my first not far from Chadir-Kul. Mr Shaw, it seems,
found them good eating. I did not try them, but my
men, regarding the capture as a prize, said that its
liver, I think, was used by them as medicine. The
only Podoces in my collection that reached England
was determined as that of Biddulph {P. Biddulphi).

* Dimensions of male bird: length, ii'5 ; tail, from vent, 4*5;
expanse, 18. Description : "The bills, legs, and feet are black ; the
tail quills (except a white bar), the greater coverts, and the whole top
of the head and nape, black, with a metallic purplish-blue lustre ; most
of the feathers of the head with a minute rufescent white speck at the
top. All the primaries with a very broad white bar extending from near
the base to near the tip, and, except on the first primary, occupying the
outer as well as the inner web. The shafts of the white portion of the
feather are, in the first two or three primaries, partly brownish, in the
rest white. The whole of the rest of the bird may perhaps be best
described as a pale jay colour — that is to say, a mixture of pale rufous
and fulvous fawn ; with, especially on the back and rump, a vinaceous
tinge, and becoming albescent on the chin, cheeks, and lower tail-
coverts. The upper tail-coverts are very long, and reach to within an
inch from the end of the tail, and are coloured like the back. The wing
lining is blackish brown, but the feathers about the carpal joint are
creamy white."

FROM AKSU TO MARALBASHL 393

At four miles from Chadir-Kul trees give place to
brushwood, and the track passes between low sand-hills
covered with scrub. Approaching Turn Chuk, we ate
excellent water-melons from a garden at the roadside,
and after more than four hours' march reached this
village of 40 Turki families, or, as my notes say, " 60
houses in the district." Here was some small amount
of cultivation, and we saw barley cut, but not carried,
though Bell observed wheat being harvested about
Aksu on the preceding July 13th. Here I set Joseph
to sell New Testaments, which he did so successfully
as to need restraining, lest we should not have sufficient
for all our journey.

On arriving at Turn Chuk, I was at first disposed to
regard the day's march as over; but, as Osman Bai
seemed eager to push forward, I gave permission,
thinking to get on the morrow a day's shooting at
Charwagh, where pheasants were said to be as common
as barn-door fowls. Accordingly, we set out at four in
the afternoon, and soon approached a long barren range
of hills called the Akhur-Tau, stretching across the
plain, having a gap through which our track passed
nearly at a right angle.

As we went along I was looking and inquiring every-
where, but without success, for the ruins of a very
ancient stone city, which Biddulph was told, and
Forsyth reports, existed at Turn Chuk. In approach-
ing the range we saw, at the southern end of it, some-
thing like the ruins of a castle perched on the top, but
too far off to be accurately distinguished. Here and
there, too, were farmsteads, and ruins of mud huts all
around, showing the place to have been once populous.

The track, among low trees, passed over sand-hills,
through the gap in the range, which was of indurated

394 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

clay, with layers of flint at steep angles. Trees now
ceased, and chi grass became plentiful the track wind-
ing over a plain, out of which rise low detached hills.
The district is watered by several canals from the
Kashgar river, all sunk from three to six feet below
the surface. Travelling thus, I reached Charwagh at
ten, about an hour in advance of the baggage, feeling
very tired and not quite well, though a night's sleep
seemed to put me right.

On reaching Charwagh (or Chahar-bagh, according
to Bell) we had come to the farthest point in this
direction reached by members of the Forsyth expe-
dition in 1873. Colonel Biddulph made his way to
Maralbashi, and then went on 14 miles farther to
Charwagh — a village, he says, of 250 inhabitants —
being especially anxious to shoot a tiger, in which
he was unsuccessful, though there were said to be
many about.

He had good sport, however, shooting deer, and
saw the birkuts, or trained eagles, take gazelles and
foxes. For my own part, my opportunities and desires
were less ambitious ; but, hearing that pheasants were
so plentiful, I wished to get some of their skins, to say
nothing of procuring something for my larder by way
of change from chicken and mutton.

I therefore obtained as guide a man who was said
to know the locality, but who turned out a poor hunter.
We saw, indeed, two or three pheasants, but after three
hours tramp we returned to the station, rather tired,
and with nothing more to show than a hawk, a rook,
a crested lark {Galerita magna), and a starling (Sturnus
porphyronottis). *

* Colonel Biddulph, writing- to Dr Bowdler Sharpc of the pheasant
of this locality (Phasianus Shawi), says that it frequents thick grass-

FROM AKSU TO MARALBASHL 395

The horses having rested, I left Charwagh at five
in the afternoon in the arba, the hard track over clay
continuing to traverse the £/«-covered flat. Biddulph
mentions, as within a mile of the road hereabouts, a
huge black rock, apparently basaltic, with a triple peak,
rising to a height of some 2,500 feet above the plain,
rugged and quite inaccessible. It is called "The
Prophet Ali's footstep," and at its foot on the north
side is a tomb of renowned sanctity, at sight of which
Muhammadans dismount to utter prayer.

At first our way lay through high grass, tall as stand-
ing corn. The district being irrigated by numerous
canals, we crossed many bridges, one of which had
to be mended before we could do so, and herein our
Turki djiguitty Sarim Sak, showed himself a thoroughly
capable and hard-working fellow. Beyond the high
grass we got among trees, where we were annoyed by
mosquitoes. The low hills now receded from ten to
fifteen miles to the north, whilst detached hills occurred
to the southward, all barren and steep.

At 11 miles from starting we approached the
Kashgar river, here 50 feet broad, of which we could
not see much, since we no longer had moonlight. Six
hours' drive, however, brought us, near upon midnight,
to a serai in the native town of Maralbashi.

jungle, and, according to the natives, never roosts in trees. Some of
the Forsyth party shot specimens between Yarkand and Kashgar, and
Biddulph was more fortunate than I in finding it very common at
Maralbashi ; but he did not meet with the bird west of Kashgar. He
reports it as very wild and shy, and running like a fiend, only rising, as
a rule, at a considerable distance ; so that, as it was almost impossible
to retrieve them in the grass unless killed outright, he did not bag more
than three in any one day.

CHAPTER XXV.

THE INHABITANTS OF CHINESE TURKISTAN.

Chinese Central Asia and its inhabitants ; Manchus in Hi and Pelu
towns, 396. — Kalmuks in Sungaria and Karashar, 397. — Kirghese ;
their anthropological characteristics, diseases, morals, and occu-
pation, 398.— Scarcely subjected by Chinese ; Turkish inhabitants
of plains, 405. — Their alleged Aryan descent, 406. — Lack of physical
strength ; The Turks hard-working and honest ; Weak points
of urban character ; Lack of baths ; Abuse of narcotics, 408. —
Sexual depravity, 409. — Piteous story of a female prisoner, 410. —
Degradation of country through Muhamraadanism ; The Chinese,
11 strangers and foreigners " ; their mandarins and soldiery, 412. —
Chinese garrisons and traders ; Total population, 414.

THE inhabitants of Chinese Central Asia, or
China beyond the Wall, may be roughly enume-
rated as Manchus and Mongols, Kalmuks and Kirghese,
Turks and Tibetans. Confining ourselves here to
Chinese Turkistan, I may say that of Tibetans we
did not meet, or hear of, a single specimen throughout
the country ; not even at Khotan, where some writers
had led us to expect a few.

Nor do I remember meeting any Manchus, though
there had been no lack of them in the Hi valley ; also
among theTian Shan Pelu towns are mentioned Manchu
cities, as at Barkul, with 1,000 Manchu soldiery, and
similarly Kinsu, a small village somewhat farther east.

THE INHABITANTS OF CHINESE TURKISTAN. 397

At Guchen, also, a Manchu town was completed in
1887, to be occupied the following year.

Again, of Mongols proper we saw none ; but a
certain portion of the country is inhabited by their
congeners the Kalmuks. Speaking of the Kalmuks
generally, they may be divided into four branches,
distributed for the most part over Sungaria. The
northern division is located in Khobak and Sarin,
east of Chuguchak. The eastern division inhabits the
country between An-how-tzien and Balgazi ; and the
western division is spread over the district stretching
from south of An-how-tzien to Bora-Burgusu. This divi-
sion numbers 40,000 individuals, with 3,900 horsemen.

Lastly, the southern division is found on the river
Khuidu-gol, near Karashar, and is the most numerous,
mustering 8,100 horsemen, which probably includes
the Mongol nomads, sometimes called Hoshoits, of
the Kunges valley, some of whom migrated there from
Koko-Nor, and are said to number 18,000 individuals,
furnishing in the field 1,800 horsemen.

In Chinese Turkistan the only Kalmuk settlement
is Karashar ; unworthy, Wilkins thinks, of the name
of a town, since it consists of one street only, about
500 yards long, with no regular bazaar, but only a
few poor and dirty shops without Russian or English
merchandise. There are, however, about 250 houses,
a caravanserai, and, in the time of Yakub Khan, there
existed an elementary school, and two medresses, or
colleges. In the vicinity are 500 Kalmuk cavalry, and
from 1,000 to 2,000 Kalmuk families.

Of the physical and ethnographical characteristics
of the Kalmuks I spoke when among them in the
Tekes valley ; and so completely did we there leave
them behind, that on arriving at Aksu we could find

3Q8 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

none amongst whom to distribute any of our few
remaining copies of the Kalmuk Scriptures. I had,
therefore, to entrust them to the Russian Aksakal to
sell them to, or send them by, traders proceeding in
the direction of Karashar ; and when farther west we
failed to meet a single Kalmuk, I sent the last ten
copies from Kashgar to General Ivanoff, asking him
to distribute them amongst the Kalmuks of Vierny.

We may pass, therefore, to the Kirghese, who in
Chinese Turkistan are, almost to a man, dwellers in
the mountains. They monopolise the Aksai valley west
of Ush-Turfan and the Sirt country, and roam over the
mountains north, south, and west of Kashgar as far as
the Pamirs. They are much better known to science
than their Kalmuk neighbours, and have been closely
studied, among others, by Dr Seeland, who, not long
before I met him at Vierny, had written a paper on
the Kirghese for the Revue d Anthropologies to which
I am indebted for much of my information.*

The body of the Kirghese is vigorous, and endowed

* After an elaborate series of measurements of 40 men and 10 women,
Dr Seeland describes the Kirghese as of medium stature and well pro-
portioned ; shoulders wide, neck neither long nor thick, chest well
developed, the lower limbs straight, hands and feet small, brown skin,
and dark hair. Fat subjects are rare ; hump-backed and crooked not
seen. The head, covered with stiff hair, and cut short or shaven, is
very brachycephalous, and more or less pointed, the summit forming a
sort of crest. The forehead, especially among the men, is more or less
retreating ; ears of medium size, with the upper portions standing off
from the head, by reason perhaps of the sheepskin busby being pressed
down upon them, though this would not apply to the malakhai> or
travelling sheepskin hood. The cheek-bones are wide apart, but less
so, as I myself observed, than with pure Mongols such as Buriats.
The nose is prominent, and not too large ; the mouth fairly small and
well coloured ; but the upper lip is ordinarily thick and protruding. The
teeth are straight and white ; the beard and moustache often lighter
than the hair, and rarely thick ; and in general the skin is not very
hairy, but is supple, and impregnated with the smell of smoke.

THE INHABITANTS OF CHINESE TURKISTAN 399

with greater organic resistance than that of settled
peoples ; and the temperature of his blood is higher.

A KIRGHESE IN ' MALAKHAI, ' OR (TRAVELLING HOOD.

Cold, heat, hunger, thirst, and all physical sufferings
are admirably endured by these nomads. Their vitality
is especially observable in the way they bear wounds.

4oo CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Great gashes, even of the skull, often heal without
fever or loss of appetite ; and amputated limbs are
rapidly covered with granulations, without leaving
ulcers, caries, etc.

Sickness occurs among them less frequently than
among ourselves. The muscular strength, however,
of the Kirghese is less than that of the Russian
peasant. In horsemanship both sexes excel, the
Kirghese being as firm on horseback as on his feet ;
but in vaulting and tricks of equitation he is beaten
by the Cossack. Again, sight, hearing, and smell are
admirably acute, but touch is less developed than
among educated persons.*

The extremes of climate and variety of territory
frequented by the Kirghese, as well as their manner
of life, help, no doubt, to develop the organic resistance
just spoken of to cold and hunger, as an illustration of
which Seeland quotes an instance of a young Kirghese,
in the neighbourhood of Pishpek, buried by accident
in snow for 20 hours, his only nourishment being his
boots, which he ate down to the soles !

Their indifference to physical suffering may, how-
ever, be partly attributable to the feebleness of touch
before mentioned. Comparing them with the Gilyaks
on the Amur (who I remember struck me, in 1879,
as the lowest specimens of humanity 1 had seen), See-
land thinks sensitiveness to pain more developed among
the Kirghese. When he pulled a few hairs out of a
Gilyak, the man seemed to heed it no more than
a horse seized by the mane as an aid to a mount,

* The Kirghese women resemble the men, but with certain important
differences. The stature and muscular strength of the woman are less,
but her temperature is higher. The arms are relatively shorter, but
her physiognomy is more intelligent and grave. The average weight
of the men, tested by Seeland, was 131 lbs., that of the women 110 lbs.

THE INHABITANTS OF CHINESE TURKISTAN. 401

whereas the Kirghese winced. Both can rest quietly
in their tents when full of smoke, whence it would

A KIRGHESE BRIDE.

seem that the mucous membrane covering the ball of
the eyes is less tender than among ourselves.

From the fact that in Kirghese one word, kok, does
duty for blue, green, and grey, it has been assumed

vol. if 26

402 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

that they are colour-blind ; but this is not the case.
Moreover, their sense of smell is such that they scent
smoke at distances incredible to a European. They
like the perfume of flowers, but are indifferent to what
some would call a positive stench.

The Kirghese arrive at puberty at about the same
age as Europeans of a temperate climate, but so rarely
live beyond 85, that in 1883, at Tokmak, among 82,000
Kara- Kirghese, there were surviving only two men of
86 and 92 respectively. Out of a like number of
English, 2,700 attain 85 and upwards.

As for their diseases, scrofula is met with but rarely ;
and of phthisis, Dr Pchigodski met with one case only
in the district of Tokmak in seven years.*

The native methods of treatment, apart from the
curious instances named in a previous chapter, include
the cure by hunger and water, the patient receiving
for a period of from 1 4 to 60 days nothing but water,
with a very little milk, of which mixture some drink
from 12 to 14 pints a day; so that to pose like Mr

* Leprosy does not appear to exist. Cancer occurs 20 times less
frequently than among settled populations. On the other hand, syphilis
among them is endemic, one in 20, perhaps, suffering therefrom. In
spring the Kara- Kirghese suffer also from scorbutus. Of infectious
diseases small-pox is the most frequent, but its virulence and area have
much diminished since the introduction of vaccination. Intermittent
fevers are rare or frequent, according to the ground selected for winter
encampment. Rheumatism is common, but organic disease of the
heart rare ; whilst diseases of the nervous system, paralysis, con-
vulsions, and psychosis are very rare indeed. Cases, however, are met
with of idiocy and melancholy. Diseases of the organs of sense are
not common, except superficial inflammation of the eyes, arising
generally \rom smoke ; also growths upon the eyeballs and inversion
of the eyelids occur from time to time ; but loss of sight, from cataract
or atrophy of the optic nerve, as well as loss of hearing, is rare.
Chronic diseases of the skin frequently exist, due to lack of cleanli-
ness ; for regular bathing is unknown even in summer, though, if a
Kirghese chance to be passing a river, he may take a plunge into it.

THE INHABITANTS OF CHINESE TURKISTAN. 403

Tanner and his imitators would scarcely pay among
the Kirghese. Intermittent fever is treated by fright.
Against chills they have recourse to enforced sweating.
For scorbutus they give sour cabbage and koumiss,
which are, in fact, excellent remedies. To wounds
they apply burnt felt, if there is hemorrhage. They

INTERIOR OF A KARA-KIRGHESE TENT.

also place on the wound powdered tobacco, pour on
boiling fat, and sometimes (according to M. Gourdet)
cauterise by means of ignited gunpowder.

The temperament of the Kirghese is decidedly
sanguine. Their manner of living, plenty of horse-
riding, frequent change of place and mountain air,

404 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

together with the absence of intoxicating drinks,
opium-smoking, and the use even of tobacco, seem
to engender a happy temperament, and to account for
the absence of nervous diseases and melancholy.

And this temperament of the Kirghese is reflected
in his moral physiognomy. Among his good qualities
must be mentioned integrity, compassion, hospitality,
endurance, sobriety, and absence of revenge and
cruelty. His defects are idleness, want of fore-
thought, vanity, curiosity, uncleanliness, a certain love
of litigiousness, and a great weakness for his neigh-
bours' horses, the stealing of which he mixes up with
remembrance of raids in pre-Russian times, when
cattle-lifting was regarded as part of the calling of
a brave ; but this love of equine appropriation is said
to be consistent with honesty in other things.

Crime, as we understand the word, is comparatively
rare among them. Murder is not common, and suicide
seldom heard of ; and then generally among women,
whose lot is frequently a hard one.*

The Kirghese is before all things a nomad, a shep-
herd, a tender of cattle ; and he thinks it a descent in
life when obliged to follow agriculture. This, however,
he is gradually learning on Russian soil.f

To judge from the zest with which a number of men
and boys rushed into a stream near Issik-Kul to secure

* Rape occasionally occurs, but Dr Seeland says that prostitution
and unnatural offences are unknown, though the last, in Russian
Turkistan, are largely practised by the Sarts.

t In Chinese Turkistan, in the valley west of Ush-Turfan, Young-
husband found the Kirghese cultivating the poppy, not for their own
use, but as a profitable crop ; and in the Sirt country, wheat also and
other cereals. Gordon, too, mentions a little scattered cultivation by
Kirghese in the Toyan valley and the lower valleys of the Siriks district
Many of these people are also carriers, and transport merchandise over
th<* mountainous country between Osh, Vierny, and Kashgar,

THE INHABITANTS OF CHINESE TURKISTAN 405

for me specimens of fish, the Kirghese should be keen
sportsmen. As a means of subsistence, however, hunt-
ing is not much in vogue, though they chase the deer
for their horns and foxes for their skins, to the extent
that, in 1882, there were killed in the districts of I ssik-
Kul, Vierny, and Sergiopol 6,000 foxes, worth ,£1,200,
and 400 stags, worth £2,200.*

On Russian soil the Kirghese pay about 1 2s. a tent
as taxes, but the Chinese have not got them sufficiently
in hand to exact anything — a cause of trouble to the
Russians, some of their subjects crossing the frontier
to evade the tax-collector. In fact, the district between
Kashgar and Ferghana, and the adjacent Chinese por-
tion of the Pamirs, was said to be hardly in subjection,
the Kirghese there regarding themselves as free, and
ready upon a favourable opportunity to aid insurrection
and descend for plunder to the plains. Nor is pillage
of caravans entirely unknown. On my arrival at
Kashgar, I met Miss Petrovsky, who, with her brother,
had crossed by the Narin route from Vierny, and had
been robbed, on Chinese soil if I mistake not ; but
the occurrence was regarded as rare, the goods were
recovered, and the robbers taken into custody.

Having now spoken of the nomad hill tribes of
Chinese Turkistan, I proceed to the settled inhabitants
of the plains, which I have called Turks to distinguish
them from Mongols, Manchus, and Chinese. Some
writers call them Uigurs ; others Dungans, Taranchis,
and Kashgarians ; and Shaw — " Tatarise d Aryans."

The common opinion seems to be that the Yuechi,

* The slaughter of deer for their horns has, of course, wrought great
havoc throughout Central Asia, and I have learned with satisfaction
from Mr Littledale that in the neighbourhood of Malo-Narinsk an
attempt at preservation is being made by inclosing the animals and
as an experiment cutting off their horns when soft.

4*o6 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

who, in the second century B.C., were driven from their
seats over the Pamirs by the Uigurs, were Aryans.
They left behind them a considerable remnant, with
whom the Uigurs and subsequent Mongol invaders
intermarried. Hence the existing inhabitants of the
towns of Chinese Turkistan.

Dr Bellew, who both studied the people locally, and,
in his historical sketch in Forsyth's Report, as well as
in his Kashmir and Kashgar, shows himself widely
read in his subject and entitled to speak with authority,
supports the foregoing hypothesis by etymological con-
siderations, and others follow his lead.

I am not aware, however, that any history, document,
or historical monument affords proof that these primitive
inhabitants were Aryans, or that their migration was
only partial. At the same time I must allow that just
as to an ordinary observer the difference was patent
between Buriats and Kirghese, so it struck me among
the people of Chinese Turkistan that one oftener saw a
nearer approach to a European countenance than was
visible, I thought, among natives in Russian Turkistan.

But here again I gladly avail myself of the researches
of Dr Seelarid, whose journey from Vierny to Kashgar,
and thence to Aksu and Ush-Turfan, gave him the
opportunity of studying anthropologically the natives
of the northern portion of the country, just as the
Forsyth mission gave similar opportunity to Dr Bellew
to study the natives of the southern portion, especially
Yarkand, their observations coalescing at Kashgar.

Dr Seeland's examination and measurements were
made upon 30 agriculturists and labourers — 25 from
the oasis of Kashgar, and five from Aksu and Turfan
— and may therefore be regarded as complementary
to those of Dr Bellew, only that anthropologically

THE INHABITANTS OF CHINESE TURKISTAN. 407

they are far more minute and exhaustive. Dr See-
land wrote an account of his journey, a portion of
which, translated into French by our mutual friend
M. Gourdet, is before me in manuscript.

The Kashgarian type, he observes, is far from
handsome, and Aryan blood among them is, without
doubt, reduced to a minimum. The average stature
is about 64 inches, chest fairly broad, but generally
flat, whilst the back is rounded, from the habit, pro-
bably, of sitting cross-legged and leaning forward to
balance the body. The muscle of the labourer is well
developed, and the constitution generally good, though
among the lower stratum of poor in the towns feeble
folk are common enough.

As for the head, it resembles that of the Kirghese,
thus far at least, that it is strongly brachycephalous,
retreating towards the top and little developed at the
back. The faces of some presented certain character-
istic traits of the Caucasian race, with a thick beard ;
but, in most subjects, Mongolian characteristics pre-
vailed — projecting cheek-bones, little beard, large
nose, thick lips. The colour of the skin is swarthy,
but without the yellow tint of the Chinese.

Here and there among the younger women a whitish
tint of great delicacy is observable, and it is noteworthy
that the women of Kuchar, eastwards, are remarkable
for their beauty and fresh complexions. This agrees
with what Marco Polo says of the good looks of the
women of the eastern part of the country ; and the
same is mentioned in some of the older Chinese
writings, as well as confirmed by a modern traveller,
M. Chikhalibekoff.

In the neighbourhood of Maralbashi, Seeland found
the Caucasian type of countenance better preserved —

4o8 CHINESE CENTRAL AS/A.

the face oval and regular, mouth straight and good-
looking, nose thin, eyes larger than among the
Turkish races, and stature taller ; whereas in Aksu
the Mongolian characteristics were more accentuated
even than in Kashgar. The face of the Kashgarians
has little or no expression, unless it be of indifference,
and is, on the whole, somewhat repellent.

Their physical strength is in no way remarkable,
and Dr Bellew more than once points out their
incapacity for sustained exertion. Both sexes ride,
but generally on donkeys, and equestrian games are
not much in vogue.

The settled inhabitants of Chinese Turkistan are,
however, beyond doubt hard-working, and gain their
daily bread literally by the sweat of their brow ; also
they are honest, notwithstanding their poverty. Theft
is comparatively rare, and throughout the villages the
doors are without locks. One is struck also with the
probity of the carriers, who often transport merchan-
dise and money abroad of ten times the value of their
own possessions, yet nothing confided to them is lost

On the other hand, among the weak points of urban
character in Chinese Turkistan must be mentioned
lack of cleanliness, a tendency to the abuse of narcotics,
and sexual depravity. Other Muhammadan countries
are supplied with baths, but in Aksu there are none,
and in Kashgar only one establishment, and that small
and badly kept. I myself was thankful to accept from
M. Petrovsky the luxury of a Russian bath at the
Consulate. Amongst the natives the well-to-do wash
at home ; the poor, it is said, dispense with washing.

With regard to narcotics, Seeland says that half the
proletariat of Kashgar smoke Jiasheesh, or hemp, under
various forms, and four or five per cent, of the women

THE INHABITANTS OF CHINESE TURKISTAN. 409

eat it in sweetmeats. At Aksu the consumption of
hasheesh and opium is relatively smaller by about one-
half. These poisons are taken at establishments set
apart for the purpose, and are smoked in the chilim,
or pipe of the country, which is filled with a mixture
of hemp and tobacco, whereon are placed live coals,
the smoke being drawn right into the lungs.

There exist other means of taking narcotic prepara-
tions, for which are used, besides hemp and opium,
henbane, thorn-apple, and probably, as in Ferghana,
nux-vomica. The gaiety produced by these narcotics
seems to afford an artificial oblivion, at the expense,
of course, of enfeebling the nerves, so that among the
townspeople even old men are often seen to burst into
tears ; and madness is frequent.

As for the other form of depravity mentioned, it
arises partly from emigration of the men, whereby the
women, in Kashgar at least, are in excess of men, I
was told, by six to one. Hence throughout Central
Asia the cheapness of Kashgar wives is proverbial.
For four or five shillings one may acquire a " lawful
wife" ; and if for one reason or another she does not
please, divorce is equally easy. Some of the men,
Seeland says, change their wives six times a year ! *

* There exists among the Sarts another hideous depravity in marrying
girls of from ten to twelve years old, and drugging them at first with
opium. This testimony was confirmed to me by a man of education
resident in Kashgar, and by a second European, who said he had
known many girls have 20 husbands before they were capable of be-
coming mothers ! What sort of progeny results when they become
old enough to bear children may be imagined, and indeed seen in the
miserable appearance of many of the townspeople. Meanwhile, the lot
of the cast-off women is very sad. They cannot obtain daily employ-
ment, and their only resource is the making of tnata, by which to earn
a miserable pittance. Others, again, of the unmarried women who
cannot obtain husbands have recourse to practices which recall the

4to CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

The case of the female prisoner whom we overtook
on the road will illustrate this, and is worth more than
many statements of a general character. When looking
over the fort at Maraibashi, I peeped into one of the
prison rooms, and there, alone, cleanly dressed, but
hiding herself from observation, was the young woman
we had seen, and whose piteous tale was afterwards
given me as follows : —

Her father, it seems, about ten years before, killed
another man, for which he was put in the Chinese
prison at Kashgar, whither her mother daily sent her
little and pretty child of nine with food for her father.
One of the prison officials thus came to notice the
child, and made an offer to the mother that if she
would give her daughter to him the father should
be released.

The mother consented, and for six months the child
was abused in the house of her keeper, who, having
to go to Peking, and she not wishing to accompany
him, sent her home to her father. Then another
Chinese official married her and took her to Ush-Turfan
for two years, after which her husband put her into a
cart and sent her back to Kashgar, whilst he returned
to China.

Next, she was married to a Muhammadan Bek, or
nobleman, for a year, when he took an additional wife,
with whom for three months this one quarrelled, where-
upon she was divorced and sent away, and remained
free for three months. Then came another Bek, to
whom she was married for five months. But he
already had a wife of higher grade, from whom at

unseemly things of heathen Rome. In the country districts of Chinese
Turkistan, however, these depravities are said not to obtain, each man
usually having but one wife, and living permanently with her.

THE IMHA&ITANTS OF CHINESE TUkKISTAN. 411

first he kept this one separate, till, bringing them
together, and quarrels ensuing, she was again dis-
missed, at the age of only thirteen, from this her
fourth husband.

Then she went home and lived a loose life for a
year, her mother being aware of it, but not the father.
He, on learning the facts, not only did not forbid her,
but, after the mothers death, forced her against her
will, and with blows, to pursue an evil life, and basely
lived and smoked upon his daughters gains.

The next chapter in her melancholy career was to
be kept by a Chinese officer, and he quarrelled with
another man who came to her house, on account of
which the woman was exiled to Aksu. Here, again,
two men had quarrelled in her dwelling, the result
being disastrous to herself; for, at the age of only
eighteen, and in spite of her good looks, this poor
young creature was on her way to execution.

She herself told this tale to Joseph, in the hope,
as I afterwards heard, that I would intercede on her
behalf. Amin, too, had seen her seven years before,
and, having been born in Kashgar, knew her family
sufficiently to corroborate the main facts of the case.

Much of the foregoing, it should be observed, is
quite in keeping with being an excellent Muhammadan.
Yakub Khan posed as a religious reformer, restored
colleges, built mosques, appointed officers to drive the
people to prayers, closed licensed houses, and tried to
suppress prostitution ; yet, according to Kuropatkin,
he maintained 300 women, six of whom accompanied
him in all his wanderings; and I was. told that he
absolutely killed by his brutality two of the young
girls of his harem, and brought upon himself much
indignation thereby.

4i2 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

It would have been pleasanter to have passed over
a great deal of what has been written in this chapter,
but the reader may thus form an idea to what degree
Muhammadanism is capable of degrading a country
after centuries of unopposed sway. Other features of
anthropological and ethnographical interest among the
Turks will be noticed as we travel round Chinese
Turkistan, but I pass on now to notice briefly the
ruling class among the inhabitants of the country —
namely, the Chinese.

The Chinese are as much strangers and foreigners
in the Tarim valley as are the English in India ;
indeed, more so, since the Chinese longest in resi-
dence came into the country but yesterday, and I
never heard of a mandarin troubling himself to study
the requirements, or even to learn the language, of
the people he governed.

Moreover, the imperial government at Peking, it
seems, acts in a most foolish manner towards the recon-
quered country, sending thither, not its best mandarins,
but those who for some disgrace are thus banished as
to a Botany Bay. Hence I was given to understand
that the Chinese officials in Kashgar and neigh-
bouring towns are mandarins decidedly below par,
educationally and otherwise.

Again, the larger proportion of the Chinese soldiery
are but militia, sometimes convicts, or enlisted often
at a moment's notice from among the idlers and raga-
muffins of the bazaar, and sent off to the colonies for
service, where, thanks to bad military discipline, and
lawless conduct of various kinds, they become a veri-
table pest to the localities where they are quartered.

In the Hi valley we were constantly reminded that
many of the higher officials came from Manchuria,

CHINESE WOMEN AT RASHGAR.

4H CHINESE CENTRAL AS/A.

but I do not remember hearing the like in the Tarim
valley. There (beginning east), the 500 soldiers at Tsi-
tai-hsien, near Guchen, are said to be from the province
of Sz-chuen, and the Guchen garrison consists of 500
braves of Hunan. Again, at Gu-medi are 500 Hunan
braves, and 20,000 similarly described are supposed to
be posted between Hami and Hi. The garrison of
Toksun are called braves from Hunan and Shensi,
whilst 1,050 of the soldiers at Kashgar are spoken of
as from Hunan, and at Yengi Hissar are 500 cavalry
from Shantung,

Besides this military population there are certain
Chinese traders, who generally take up their quarters
in the forts, and who are mentioned (by Bell), especially
in the eastern towns, as settled by hundreds. Thus
at Chi-mu-sa are 35 Chinese families; at San-tai, 300;
at Szen-i-chien, 130; at Fuh-khan, 130; and at Kashgar,
300. At Urumtsi there are said to be from 500 to
1,000 Chinese shopkeepers from Hunan, Su-chow, and
Ping-yang, but living without Chinese wives.

It was this sort of thing repeated, I suppose (to
judge from the paucity of Chinese women we saw
farther west), in the " Yengi-shahr" of Aksu, Kashgar,
Yarkand, and Khotan. The foreign rulers looked
always a scanty few among the surrounding natives.

The total population of Chinese Turkistan was
estimated by Forsyth at a million, but Bell thinks
this too low, and after travelling all along the
northern and western portions of the country, and
with the advantage of Russian estimates before him,
his "two millions" is probably nearer the mark.

Having thus spoken of the inhabitants generally,
I shall continue to describe my journey among them.

CHAPTER XXVI.

FROM MARALBASHI 20 KASHGAR.

An early welcome, 415. — Call on the mandarin ; The bazaar, 416. —
Visited by mandarin, 417. — Photography, and consequent excite-
ment, 418. — The fortress and its features, 420.— General character
of forts in Chinese Turkistan ; Maralbashi, a strategical position ;
Road southwards to Yarkand, 422. — Dolan shepherds and their
underground dwellings, 423. — Departure from Maralbashi, 424. — A
trot to Urdaklik, 425. — Caught in a quagmire, 426. — A neighbour-
hood of wild-boars and deer, 427.— March to Faizabad ; Visited
by Chinese general, 428. — Features of the town, 429. — Limits of
Kashgar district ; March to the Yengi-shahr, 430. — March through
fortress to old town of Kashgar, 431.

EARLY on the morning of August 30th, at Maral-
bashi, before I was up, Isa, a Turki bek, in the
employ of the Government, called to inquire for me
and offer his services. He had been advised, he said,
of my coming, and had taken for me better apartments
at another serai, to which he invited us to remove.
The baggage, however, being unpacked, and antici-
pating only a short sojourn, I preferred to stay where
I was ; whereupon he did his best to make himself
useful in other ways.

Of his own accord he asked the Chinese authorities
to send me a guard because of the curious crowds
forcing themselves into the serai to look at the stranger
— the numbers being the more increased by my giving

4i6 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Joseph books and cards to sell — so that at length, in
self-defence, the crowd had fairly to be driven out of
the yard by a petty officer and two subordinates, who
stuck up at the gate an arrow, as an emblem of
authority, to signify that I was under the special
protection of the magistrate.

In the afternoon I called upon the chief authority,
there being two mandarins in the town, a hsten and a
military. Riding into the fort, and not dismounting
until I reached the great man's door, I thought,
seemed to perturb some of the Chinese, who came up
to me as if remonstrating. But I neither understood
nor heeded, and sent in my card. Before the door
stood a drum, which if a man strikes at any hour of the
day or night the mandarin, whatever he may be doing,
is bound to come.

Such is the magnificent theory by virtue of which
the distressed may flee to the highest for help ; but,
inasmuch as the mandarin, under such conditions,
usually orders his summoner ioo lashes, and then asks
what he wants, the privilege is of doubtful value, and
one of which I did not avail myself. It took but a
short time, on the appearance of this local potentate, to
exchange compliments ; after which we proceeded to
look about the fort, and permission having been given
to visit the prison therein, we found it new, much
better than at Aksu, and with few inmates.

On our way to and from the fort we passed through
a portion of the bazaar, which is, in fact, the main
road, lined t>y shops, some kept by Turks and some
by Chinese. Indian merchants are said to come here
vid Yarkand, and stay for a month or two. They
bring tea, sugar, pepper, ginger, and cotton goods.
Thus, in the shop of an Afghan, I was pleased to read

FROM MARALBASHI TO KASHGAR. 417

on a piece of muslin " Ferdinand Cohen & Co., Man-
chester." For 18 yards they asked 5^., whilst for
another piece of 10 yards of figured coloured muslin,
marked "Graham, Bombay and Calcutta/' the price
named was ys. 6cl.

In the summer ice is cheap and plentiful, and iced
curds and apricots are the order of the day. Iron ore
is said to be found in the vicinity, and is roughly
smelted ; but it did not give one a lofty idea of local
commerce when Isa, the bek, represented the getting
me small change for five ounces of silver — about a
sovereign — as not quite an -easy matter. He thought
it might be done at 16 tengas the ser instead of 20 —
that is to say, at the rate of 16$. for £1 ; whilst another
man quoted 15 tengas only, but doubted if so much
ready cash could be found in the market.

At the time of Colonel Bell's passing through, there
was at Maralbashi a barber from Lahore, said to be
doing well and contented ; the same, I suspect, who
presented himself to me about 12 months later at
Kuldja — one Ismail — who said he had been recom-
mended to try his fortune as barber in the Hi valley.
He had accordingly come thither from Maralbashi
over the Muzart Pass in 24 days, and at a cost from
Aksu of 100 tengas, or about £1, for each of two
horses, and 100 more for expenses. I did not gather,
however, that he had improved his position by wander-
ing farther from India, but rather the contrary ; and I
heard on the spot of no British subjects at. Maralbashi,
though Isa said he had known Mr Dalgleish.

When, on the morrow, the chief mandarin returned

my visit, I asked whether he had received orders to

make inquiries for the murderer of Dalgleish. He

replied in the negative, but showed every disposition

vol. 1. 27

4i 8 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

to meet my wishes, having already promised me two
Mussulman attendants to relieve the two djiguitts
returning to Aksu.

My first wish, after resting for a day, was to start
again ; but, for a wonder, Osman Bai desired me to
tarry, saying that one of his horses was sick, and I
assented the more readily as it was a rainy morning ;
also it gave me opportunity to take some photographs,
which I commenced from the top of the serai.

The neighbouring flat roofs and the straight level of
the Chinese fort in the distance presented a dull picture,
relieved by one erection only, standing out above the
horizon — namely, the so-called Old Tower, the sole
building I remember as a possible survival of what
Biddulph calls a " palace," built outside the fort by
Yakub Khan, who often stayed here on his way to
and from Aksu. The views of the bazaar east and
west from the gate of the serai presented the curious
aspect of Central Asian streets shaded with what once
were leafy branches, and now looked like brushwood.

Meanwhile the sight of my camera so stirred the
curiosity of the crowd that they made a rush for the
housetop, which I forbade. It was plain, however,
that my Turkish attendants, although officials, and not
hesitating to lay their whips on their fellow-country-
men, were very cautious of touching a Chinaman, and,
as it soon appeared, with good reason.

I had heard of the outrageous lies a Chinaman can
tell, merely to give point to his conversation. On the
present occasion one of these rascals, who had, I
suppose, been turned back from ascending to the roof,
went to the mandarin and told such a tissue of false-
hoods as to the treatment he had met with as to make
one s hair stand on end. The mandarin sent to ask

TARING PHOTOGRAPHS IN THE BAZAAR.

420 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

whether it was true, and fortunately accepted my
denial ; but it was easy to see how a Turk would be no
match for such a calumniator before a Chinese judge.

Happily the authorities manifested no fear of my
revisiting and taking photographs of the fort, which
Kuropatkin calls the "third of the important defences
of Kashgaria," though I should hardly think it would
take such rank now.*

A photograph of one of the four gateways presented
an enormous mass of brickwork, ioo feet deep.
The gateways are in the centre of each side, and
project 40 yards by 60, thus giving flank defence.
Within, we mounted the walls by ramps at the gate-
ways, over some of which are covered lodgments,
whilst at the angles of the fort are circular projections
of about 30 feet diameter, with towers, thus giving a
double line of musketry fire.

The fort was originally built by the Chinese, but
many of the mud huts within it were probably erected
in the time of Yakub Khan ; whilst here and there
were new buildings, yamen, barracks, etc., of a style
unmistakably " Celestial," but there were no shops.
We nowhere had so good an opportunity of inspecting
the characteristics of the Tarim forts as at Maralbashi.

The Chinese seem to be well aware that their
tenure is precarious ; and remembering how com-
pletely their soldiers are outnumbered by Turks, and
on former occasions have been butchered, they have

* The fort has faces, according to Kuropatkin, of about 280 yards
long, whilst another estimate says 400 yards. The walls are from 15 to
18 feet high, and about as thick, revetted with brick, and surrounded by
a dry ditch. The Kashgar river, or a branch of it called the Kizil, flows
close under the north face, whereby it would seem possible to flood the
ditches. On the east face the village would give cover to besiegers.
On the other sides the ground is uneven, but open with easy slopes.

TAKING A PHOTOGRAPH FROM THE ROOF OF THE CARAVANSERAI.

422 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

built at each important point we visited (namely, Aksu,
Maralbashi, Kashgar, Yengi Hissar, Yarkand, and
Khotan, to say nothing of towns farther east) strong
inclosures, into which the Chinese population may run
and be safe, whilst the Turki towns are left without
walls, or nearly so, and the people are deprived of
arms. Hence, as one native merchant said to me,
"We are as weak as a lot of women."

The fort at Maralbashi should be garrisoned by
350 soldiers of Hunan, some mounted, but the number
was 100 short. How they are armed I cannot say,
but on examining some of the muskets at the yamen
I found them marked " Tower," which smacked of the
days of the old " Brown Bess." I photographed
the interior of the fort from the ramparts, and then
placed my camera on the top of the wall for a view of
the native town, which has a population, it is said,
of about 2,000 Turks.*

The existence of this large fort near so insignificant
a village is explained by its situation at the junction
of roads which lead to the town of Aksu from Khotan,
Yarkand, and Kashgar, thus giving it a position of
considerable strategical importance.

Of the track from Maralbashi southward to Yarkand
we know but little, four Europeans only, so far as I
remember, having travelled that way.|

* Biddulph observes that the town is also known as Barchuk and Lai
Musjid, having a population of about 1 ,500 inhabitants, whilst Forsyth
mentions 5,000 houses for the whole Maralbashi district, and says that, in
the time of the former occupation of the Chinese, they kept here a garri-
son of 3,000 men, whereas Yakub Khan maintained the post with only 300.

t Benedict Goes did so, and has left us 14 names of places on his
25 days' journey from Yarkand to Aksu. Mr Carey travelled the
reverse way, but neither he nor his lieutenant, Mr Dalgleish, in their
contributions to the Geographical Society's publications, appears to have
given us names of stations between Maralbashi and Yarkand, and of

PkOM MARALBASHt TO KASHGAR. 423

Carey speaks of a reception, always kindly and
hospitable, on the part of the Dolan shepherds in the
country round Maralbashi, which Forsyth calls their
capital. Bell, however, does not speak of the inhabi-
tants of Maralbashi as different from those of other
towns he passed through, nor did I notice any dis-
tinctive marks, though Seeland observed about Maral-
bashi, without being able to account for it, a greater
number of countenances of Aryan type.

Forsyth, who met several of the Dolans at Yarkand,
calls them an outcast Tatar tribe, whose dwellings
were described to him as oblong pits dug in the
ground, and roofed with a thatch of reeds supported
on poplar beams — miserable hovels, in which the family
consorts with its live-stock. This recalls exactly what
I saw of the Tatars of the Crimea or Caucasus in
1880. Biddulph reports the Dolans to be descended
from prisoners brought from Trans-Oxiana in the
eleventh century by Haroun Bugra Khan, and forcibly
settled between Maralbashi and Kuchar.

Again, Forsyth speaks of Dolan settlements along
the river of Yarkand, where their principal wealth con-
sists of asses, though they have also small herds of
oxen and flocks of sheep. They have no agriculture,
but carry to the market at Yarkand fuel, potash, coarse
desert salt, butter, curd cheese called suzma, skins of
foxes and birds, and coarse rope made from the fibre
of the poplar. Another product of the poplar which
they bring is called toghrago — a fungous decay from
the trunk, sold for ferment in baking. They carry
back in exchange cotton cloth, flour, bread, biscuits,
boots and shoes, caps, etc.

the four places indicated on Walker's map none appear to tally with
those of Goes. The fourth traveller referred to is Major Cumberland.

424 CHJXESE CENTRAL ASIA.

The Dolans are poor and illiterate, nominally
Muhammadans, and without conjugal fidelity.* Physi-
cally, they are said to be of inferior race, and their
mental capacity is of the meanest. They are short,
small of limb, with retreating forehead, and repulsive
Tatar features, resembling, Forsyth says, the Tibetans.
They talk a dialect of Turki, but among themselves
use a language nobody else understands. They are
timid, simple, despised, shunning and being shunned
by their neighbours.

On the third day I was impatient to start, and gave
my men the first call at an hour after midnight, rose
myself at two, breakfasted at three, but even then
did not get off till nearly four. At first the 30-foot
road traversed the well watered oasis, which is said,
however, to be poor rather than fertile. Here and
there are farmsteads, and then we came to a district of
low bushes of tamarisk, sometimes so profusely tipped
with crimson as to remind one of lilacs in bud.

About five miles from Maralbashi we crossed the
Kashgar river, a sluggish stream here 50 feet wide,
and its bed from six to eight feet below the general
surface of the land. Beyond, the track ran over an
uncultivated country, and, at ten miles, entered a wood
of tograk, with trees 25 feet high, and 18 inches in
diameter. In this wood, during the summer, horse-
flies abound. With me it was the first of September,
and sufficiently cool to make a shawl acceptable when
lying in the arba.

* The custom obtains among them, according to Forsyth, that is also
reported by Bell to exist among the Mongols, and which Marco Polo
recorded of the people of Hami and Caindu, whereby the master of the
house, on receiving a traveller, places his wife at the disposal of his
guest, and himself retires to a neighbouring hovel until the guest's
departure.

FROM MARALBASHI TO KASHGAR. 425

Mindful of the date, I was keenly on the look-out
for "birds." The clay soil, easily pulverised, and
abundance of chi grass, seemed to afford good cover,
but I do not remember flushing any partridges in the
northern part of the country. Two pheasants crossed
our path, but not within gun-shot. At a bend of the
river, many feet below, I saw a goose or swan, of a
kind not familiar to me, but I did not fire because of
the apparent impossibility of retrieving the quarry. I
knocked over, however, my first hare, one of the few
mammals I shot.

Four hours' ride brought us to Shugeh, a distance
of 70 li—" very tired," says my journal ; whereupon I
got into the arba and drove 60 It along a heavy road,
often deep with dust, to Kara-Kuchan (or Kara-
Kilchin-Robat), where we arrived at three. The
baggage had come about an hour earlier, but minus
a large piece of felt, which Osman Bai had left at
Maralbashi — the only time, I think, he was forgetful —
and for which the officer at the station kindly sent
back a message, and it was recovered.

At Kara-Kuchan we spent Sunday, and I indulged
in an extra hour or two of bed, with such success that,
on rising, I reported myself in the enjoyment, so
far as I could tell, of perfect health. That these
Sunday stoppages were alike good for man and beast
I have not a doubt, though Saturday night some-
times landed us in queer places wherein to spend
the day of rest.

Monday morning brought a continuation of the rain
that had been falling during the night, so that I did
not hurry the men away ; whilst for my own part I
delayed for nearly an hour more, and then tried the
experiment of a trot to Urdaklik (or Urdalick) in

42b CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

three and a half hours, instead of walking with the
caravan, which took six.

By way of a change, the road was very muddy
instead of dusty, and lay through forest with little
undergrowth ; but I saw no birds worth shooting.
Colonel Bell seems to have been so persecuted here
by horse-flies as to speak of this tract of country as
worse than the passage of the Gobi ; but I was six
weeks later, and had no such cause of complaint.

My experiment of a quicker pace so far succeeded
that I was less tired than sometimes after proceeding
at walking pace ; and my early arrival gave me the
opportunity for taking photographs of the station,
which was typical of the travellers' resting-places
hereabouts. Approached from the road, it was a large
walled inclosure, about ioo by 150 yards, which could
be made to serve as a fortress ; and on entering the
gate, the first yard was surrounded, or partly so, by
rooms, each with doorway and tiny window, suitable
for the lodgment of soldiers on the march, or the
serving-men of caravans ; whilst in the inner yard
were rooms for officers or travelling mandarins, with
paper windows, a kang, a fireplace, and sometimes a
table and chair, but nothing more.

We left Urdaklik next morning at seven, and I was
proceeding alone over what looked like a little expanse
of dried sand, when my horse unexpectedly sank in a
quagmire, first to his knees and then to his girths. The
farther forward he plunged, the worse it became, till he
came to a standstill sufficiently on his side to imprison
my left foot. Happily the soil was soft, and on getting
off I was able, with the help of the men who had come
up, to extricate myself without injury.

After this, at a distance of 40 /*, we came to a

FROM MARALBASHI TO KA SUGAR. 427

picket station, Yassa Bulak, or " Wusu Block." About
a quarter of a mile before reaching it, the Kashgar
river, here about 40 yards wide, is again crossed, this
time by a bridge of three spans, 45 paces long, the
banks being revetted with timber for some distance up
and down the stream.

Here we stayed for rest and refreshment. On the
previous night they had told me that wild-boars were
making a raid into the neighbouring melon gardens ;
but the prospect was not alluring enough to draw me
out of bed either for shooting or pig-sticking. It was in
this neighbourhood, I presume, that Biddulph stopped
at a place he calls Toga Sulookh for a day's shooting,
but secured only a specimen of the djeran (Antilopa
gutturosa), nearly resembling the Indian gazelle,
except that the horns are rather larger and curved
outward, the tips being turned sharply inwards, and
making a very handsome head.

" At Yassa Bulak I saw many water-birds in a lake,
some of them tall waders, like cranes or herons.
These I could not approach, but I managed to bring
down a snipe. Then I turned into the arba for about
a third of the way, and after 80 // more we arrived at
Lungur, forest and sand being plentiful all day, with
low brushwood, thorny bramble, and camel-thorn, but
no grass ; so that at Lungur again we had to pay for
fodder seven times, and corn double, the Aksu prices.
Joseph, too, having been instructed that the female
of a cock was a hen, came to inform me that he had
bought a " hen " sheep for 20 tengas, or say 4^.

The next day's march brought us practically to the
end of the desert, through which we had been travelling
for many days. The rutty road, over dry alluvial soil,
covered sometimes with a thin, hard crust of soda,

428 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

crackling under foot at every step, and in which horses
sank to their fetlocks, was once more alternated with
a sandy track, amidst tamarisk bushes and hillocks.
Several podoces allured me to a chase that was twice
successful ; and then we came, after 70 li% to Yangi-
awat, or Yengi-abad, a village of 30 houses, where
cultivation recommenced.

Here we stayed for refreshment, in a small shaded
inclosure by the roadside — I think belonging to a
mosque. Then I turned into the arba to proceed over
an easy road, from 30 to 40 feet wide, with good
bridges and well shaded by trees, through a well-
watered oasis, dotted over with farmsteads, where
maize grows luxuriantly, and wheat had been harvested
in July. Thus we continued for 50 It more, and ten
hours from the time of starting arrived at Faizabad.

Forsyth calls "Yangabad" and "Fyzabad" places
of 600 houses each. Bell speaks of a few only in the
village of Faizabad, but of 450 houses scattered about,
and each accommodating two or three families. I did
not feel so fatigued as yesterday, and was hardly
settled in my room before a high military officer,
General Li, called upon me, presenting fuel and fodder.

He was commander, I presume, of the garrison,
evidently disposed to be chatty, and invited me to stay
over the morrow to dinner, which I declined. He
seemed to want all the information concerning me he
could get, and not understanding very well, I suppose,
the Chinese of my interpreter, sent for Amin, of whom
he asked who I was, what amount of attentions I had
received from previous mandarins, who had feasted
me, and so on.

In the morning he sent messengers urging me to
stay, in answer to which I returned him a present,

FROM MARALBASHI TO KASHGAR. 429

but again declined. Thereupon he came in person,
assuring me that there was no lack of oxen and
fadings, that he had plenty of everything, and was
ready to kill ducks, fowls, and sheep, and give me
a right good dinner. But I had been counting the
days when I should end my weary march to Kashgar,
and to be delayed four-and-twenty hours for the
delights of a Chinese dinner was not to my mind.

He then asked, as a parting favour, a portrait of
Queen Victoria, which I happened to possess among
my baggage, though not at hand. I promised, there-
fore, to send it back to him from Kashgar — and was
not allowed to forget my promise — by one of the two
soldiers he had given me in place of the two men
returning to Maralbashi.

These latter, I had heard, each received 200 cash for
the double journey ; but Joseph had standing orders
to see that commissariat affairs went smoothly, and on
parting I gave the men presents. Of the two soldiers
furnished me by General Li, I despatched one of them
in advance to announce my coming (on the next day
but one, as I hoped) to M. Petrovsky at Kashgar.

Meanwhile much rain had fallen in the night, and
came through my roof, and the roads in the morning
were muddy to a degree that beggars description, so
that we did not hurry off, and I was successful in
taking an excellent photograph of the Bazaar Mosque
of Faizabad. With its two minarets and pishtak it
was the finest building we had seen thus far in the
country, excepting perhaps at Aksu.

In the bazaar were exposed, besides melons, abund-
ance of fodder, and cotton cloth, called mata> which
here costs Sd.t is., and is. 6d. the piece of six yards ;
whilst raw cotton sells at about 4^. per lb. I took,

430 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

also, a view of the Chinese barracks, where is a
garrison of 120 Dungan cavalry, and then left Faiza-
bad about nine o'clock.

We had now entered the district of Kashgar, which
stretches north to the Ush-Turfan valley, north-west
and west to the Russian frontier, and south to Yap-
chan, whilst the border on the east is desert. Within
these limits the population was estimated by Forsyth
at 16,000 houses. Of these 5,000 were attached to
the city and suburbs, 2,000 to Artosh, and the re-
mainder distributed among a dozen principal market
towns, with from 200 to 800 houses each, besides
several agricultural settlements.

Our road from Faizabad lay for the most part
through fields and gardens with abundance of Indian
corn, good grazing land, and plenty of dhub grass ; but
not many trees were to be seen. We rode through
several hamlets, coming first to a rest-house at Shafdul,
and then pushing forward to Kazangul, 50 li from
Faizabad, where I rested till the arba came up, and
then, crossing a rapid stream at 16 miles from
Faizabad, drove 50 li farther through Gam-i-sang
(with good grapes) to a picket called Yaman Yar.
Here we stayed for the night, fuel being reported
dearer than ever, and rising to six tengas per \oojing%
or, say, is. 3d. per cwt.

It was a relief next morning to feel that we were
starting on our last stage to Kashgar, for which we set
out at half-past four, and at 30 li we came to a rest-
house, Yondama, where was a small village, and beyond
that a saline soil with little cultivation, a thick crust of
saltpetre covering the stagnant pools. Thirty li farther
on brought us to another hamlet, called Bahrin, and
ten li more to the Yengi-shahr, approaching which

FROM MARALBASHI TO KASHGAR. 431

cultivation improves. On the north of the city is an
extensive swamp.

The Yengi-shahr of Kashgar is the chief fortress of
Chinese Turkistan, and was built in 1 838. It measures
from 700 to 800 yards square, the eastern side being
slightly curved. Outside, on the north and east, there
is cover for an attacking party ; to the west and south
the ground is clear.*

Within the ramparts the city is divided into defen-
sible quarters, and here resides the General commanding
the military district, extending as far as Khotan.
Here, too, are the artillery dep6t, powder magazines,
armourers shop, and both military and civil yamens.
There are within the town one Chi Tai mandarin and
one Chew, its population consisting of about 200
Dungan, 300 Chinese, and a few Turki families. It
is garrisoned by 250 cavalry and 800 infantry from
Hunan, with 125 Turki cavalry.

As we approached the Yengi-shahr — impregnable,
I presume, to an Asiatic foe — my men were for pro-
ceeding at once, without entering the fort, down the
broad and excellent 40-foot highway leading to the
Turkish town ; but I bade them conduct me at all
events, whatever became of the baggage, right through
the new city, as its name implies ; and thus I got a
peep at the Chinese, who stared hard at the stranger,
and were, I thought, a little disposed to be rude.

* The clay walls are 25 feet high, with a seven-foot crenelated
musketry parapet two feet thick. On the east and north are flanking
projections of about 50 by 40 yards ; and some small towers in the pro-
jections and angles give additional flanking defence. There is also a
covered way from 30 to 50 feet wide, fronted by a musketry parapet, and
a ditch 40 feet wide and 15 deep, with a partial cunette. There are
double gateways on the north, east, and south, entering at right angles,
the outer being 50 and the inner 100 feet through. Ramps at the gates
lead to the top of the ramparts, which are about 50 feet wide.

432 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA,

Here were more Chinese shops built in the style of
the Flowery Land, and merchandise of higher preten-
sions than any we afterwards saw in the old town,
though we did not linger, but, having passed out of the
gate opposite to that by which we entered, rode along
a parade ground and rejoined the main road.

From our last sleeping-place to Yengi-shahr I had
driven in the arba, and there now remained for us but
a ride of five miles northwards, with the Turkish town
lying well in sight amidst an oasis of verdure. The
road too, by comparison with the way we had come,
was full of life and animation, merchants and humbler
folk wending their way to or from the old city, as also
Chinese officers, with outriders and attendants, helping
to make up a lively concourse.

We saw snipe in the marshes adjoining the rapid
river, which we crossed by a wooden bridge ioo feet
long, in four spans. As we continued between walls
and mud buildings, we presently met an Aksakal from
the Russian Consulate. From him we learned that,
expecting us to come by another road, an escort of a
dozen horsemen had gone out to meet our caravan.

We were also told that there had been an amiable
altercation between the Consul and the Chinese
authorities as to who should be my host ; the Consul
claiming it on the ground of personal acquaintance,
and the Chinese on the ground that I was in their
country. The latter were allowed to prevail, and I
was accordingly taken to a house in the town to be
the guest of the Chinese Tautai, or General in
command.

CHAPTER XXVII.

OUR STAY AT KASHGAR.

Ride to Russian Consulate, 433.— Ascent of city wall, 434.— M. Nicolas
Petrovsky and his Consular staff, 435. — His hospitality and in-
tellectual tastes, 436. — Miscarriage of letters ; Visited by local
authorities, 437. — Taking photographs, 438. — Trade of Chinese
Turkistan and its ramifications, 439.— Calls and presents from the
Tautai, 440. — Visit to prison, 441. — Three homicides, and instru-
ments of torture, 442. — Uncertainty as to route ; Thoughts of
Kafiristan, 444. — Preparations for Karakoram route ; Osman Bai
paid off, and three carts engaged ; Lack of antiquities in
Kashgar, 446. — Ruin of Aski Shahr; Present town of Kashgar;
Visit to shrine of Khoja Aphak, 447. — Rifled grave of Yakub
Khan, 449. — The Mausoleum, 450. — The Golden Mosque ; The
Consul's photography and Muhammadan prejudice, 451.

REACHING Kashgar had been for many weeks
looked forward to as the attainment of a much-
desired goal, not only for the satisfaction of visiting a
little-known city, but also because I there expected to
find correspondence awaiting me which would help
determine my course onwards. I lost no time, there-
fore, on the day of our arrival in going to the Russian
Consulate.

Of cabs in Kashgar there are none, nor public
vehicles answering to them, though I believe there
are something like omnibuses plying between the old
and new towns. The Consul's caleche is the only

vol. 1. 28

434 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

carriage in the city ; and of wheeled traffic of any
kind there is but little, though occasionally there are
seen in the streets rough carts with the clumsiest of
wheels made of blocks cut in sections of a circle
cobbled together, and groaning and creaking beneath
slabs of stone or logs of wood. We had, therefore,
to ride, and directed our course across a fruit market
near our lodging, and then continued through a street
so narrow that two horsemen could not comfortably
ride abreast. At the end of this we came to the north
gate in the city wall.

This wall, built of mud, is from 1,200 to 1,400 yards
long on one side, and, according to Gordon, three miles
round. Small projections at close intervals give flank-
ing fire commanding the narrow and shallow ditch.
The gate projections (on the north the water gate, and
on the south the sand gate) have sides of about 40 by
50 yards ; but walls, huts, and ditches outside would
give cover to besiegers right up to the town.

The area of the city, according to Bellew, is given
at about 50 acres, and, within, a narrow road is kept
clear under the steep inner slope of the wall. The
ramps, leading up to the top, are barred by doorways ;
but they were opened to enable us to ascend 25 feet
to the parapet, where the mass was 20 feet thick.
Here were posts of observation, and rooms built on
the wall that might serve for stores and sleeping-places
for watchmen.

The view extends from five to ten miles to the north
and west to low hills, beyond which, in the latter direc-
tion, the fine summits of the Tsung-ling Mountains,
already alluded to, form the horizon. The town, 4,060
feet above the sea, on a plain of loess about 16 feet
thick, and resting on sand, is surrounded by a belt

OUR S2AY AT KASHGAR. 435

of gardens and fields, but within the view of the city
is anything but attractive.

Of the ornaments of an Oriental city, as popularly
conceived — marble mosques, stately palaces, and lofty
domes — there are none, and the few minarets are of
unglazed bricks, devoid of ornament or taste. Instead
of sparkling fountains, surrounded by greenery, are
visible here and there in a square muddy pools, pro-
viding a meeting-place for bathers and water-carriers.
Also, in place of cooling colonnades and arabesque-
adorned corridors, are seen everywhere the small,
crowded, clay-built dwellings of about 40,000 inhabi-
tants.

As in Aksu, the streets, or some of them, are shut
off with palisades and closed by night. The courtyards
are small, and the houses badly lighted. Window-
frames, where they exist, are covered with paper,
panes of glass being seen only at the Consulate.
Here and there a trader's house may have five or
six fair-sized rooms, and the ne plus ultra of Kashgar
taste is a verandah with a diamond-patterned clay
parapet, whitewashed, or painted in gaudy colours.
The view over the town, therefore, did not long
detain us, and we descended to the Consulate, at a
short distance outside the city walls.

I had met M. Nicolas Feodorovitch Petrovsky in
St Petersburg in 1882, when he was on the eve of
departure for Kashgar, to reside as Consul. On
arriving, a native mud hut had been adapted to his
needs ; but I understood that the Chinese had given,
or were to give, a piece of ground whereon a worthy
Consulate should be erected for himself and his wife,
for Mr Lutch, the dragoman-secretary, and for about
40 Cossacks with their two officers and a feldscher, or

436 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

surgeon's attendant. These, with the exception of a
Dutch Roman missionary, M. Hendriks, and a Pole
whom he had brought from Russia or Siberia, were
the only European residents in Kashgar.

It was, however, pleasant to get back to Western
languages, and a real kindness to receive an open
invitation to dine daily at the Consulate ; for, if
Madame Petrovsky found it difficult to provide a
variety of food from the meanly-stocked bazaars of
Kashgar, it may be imagined that my servants found
yet greater difficulty in furnishing me with anything
but the plainest fare. One redeeming point was the
abundance of excellent fruit. Water-melons were in
season at id. each ; also figs, grapes, and autumn peaches
— the last large, and 25 for id. These peaches, some-
times called "cling-stones," are of reddish yellow, firm,
or almost hard, and hence " meat " or " food " peaches,
in contradistinction to the juicy peaches of summer.

The Consul's library showed him to be a man of
intellectual tastes. His books were numerous and
well selected, with a good sprinkling of English
authors. He had also collected some valuable Turki
manuscripts, and had brought with him a set of
Negretti and Zambra's meteorological instruments
wherewith to establish an observatory. The varia-
tions of the barometer, thermometer, etc., were re-
corded by the Pole just alluded to several times a day.
M. Petrovsky delighted in other scientific instruments
also, and was not a little pleased occasionally to excite
the amazement of his Turki visitors by showing them
electrical tricks, whereby it would not be strange if he
gained the reputation of being a sorcerer.

The view from the library included the Kizil-su,
which runs in two branches north and south of the city

OUR STA Y AT KASHGAR. 437

to unite at a short distance below. The river bed
was wide, but in September the stream looked almost
dry. Near at hand, in the garden, was erected a
Kirghese tent to serve as a summer-house or reading
pavilion ; and adjoining the offices was a Russian bath-
house, a building I was not a little thankful to use ;
whilst near at hand were added to the ordinary occu-
pants of a local poultry-yard several turkeys, which M.
Petrovsky had imported, and was rearing with success.

To my surprise I learned that the Consul had no
letters for me. A packet from India had reached him
some weeks before, which he had forwarded to the
Chinese Governor- General at Urumtsi, where, in
accordance with my first communications, I was ex-
pected to go. Of this I heard at Aksu, and not many
days before our arrival at Kashgar the Tautai had
sent off another packet for me, as I have said, think-
ing to meet me at Ush-Turfan. My packets of money,
however, had arrived safely from Vierny, and mes-
sengers had been despatched to recover the letters ;
but I, meanwhile, had to plan as best I could.

The morrow was a day of calls. Before I was up,
Lew, Chief of the town, sent his card, with a sack of
rice and a sack of maize, and inquiries for my health.
There came also a card from Kwang, Chief of the
Kashgar district. In reply I sent cards and presents
in the afternoon, at which time appeared the brother
of our friend Mattie at Suiting, sent by the Tautai
with his card, two sheep, and a bag of rice. Thus the
Chinese were mindful that we should not starve, and I
think there were added, besides, chickens and other
provisions.

The Russian Consul also paid me a formal call,
expecting to find me in a larger house, surrounded by

438 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

a garden, perhaps in the suburbs, such as the authorities
had intimated they should place at my disposal ; but, for
my own part, I much preferred to be amidst the life of
the town, even though in less comfortable quarters.

The next day was Sunday, and I was thankful to
rest ; but there was no public service to attend. The
Consul and his Cossacks had no Russian priest, M.
Hendriks and his Polish acolyte had no congrega-
tion, and Joseph and I were left to provide our own
spiritual exercises.

On Monday it was arranged that I should visit the
Tautai, and my card was sent early ; but his Excellency
had gone on the previous day to the new city, and, as
it had rained in the evening, had not returned, it not
being the fashion to go out in wet weather. I, there-
fore, took photographs of the bazaar, and saw something
of the town — though, sooth to say, it was hard to find
buildings worth portraying.

A view was secured of the Festival Mosque, which,
in common with other religious buildings, had the
merit of being built of burnt brick, with a somewhat
lofty gateway ; but the whole looked mean and poor.
Inside, however, there was a rather fine avenue of
poplars, with a broad, well-kept path, and streams on
either side, where the mullahs could delight themselves
in a cool and shady retreat. Another picture taken
was the Pishigeh caravanserai, which, after the rain,
presented a street full of ponds and puddles, every-
thing looking extremely dirty.

One could see from the streets some of the principal
industries of the people. Here in a shop, open to the
dust of the road and the winds of heaven, are exposed
pieces of mata. There, in another building, sits a
workman before a frame on which he is making

OUR STAY AT KASHGAR. 439

a carpet. A little farther on is a forge with bellows
roaring and sparks flying, and near it a cook-shop
with steaming mutton puddings just taken out of the
saucepan, and getting nicely seasoned with the dust of
the street, whilst on a counter, black and grimy with
dirt, is a medley of vegetables, grapes, melons, pieces
of meat, wares of sundry kinds, hats, and stuffs. In
shops devoted to the last are exhibited pieces of
English make, but more of Russian, of common quality,
chintzes, handkerchiefs, mirrors, etc.

Besides the shopkeepers there are many pedlars
bawling out the excellence of their wares, chiefly
eatables ; also men with baskets on their heads filled
with horse-dung — the principal fuel of the poor. In
the bazaar flour costs a halfpenny per lb., and 100 oz.
of opium cost 21 oz. of silver. Ice is both plentiful
and cheap.

Concerning the trade of Chinese Turkistan generally,
I learned from a Russian source that merchandise
passes by all four of the routes leaving the country to
north, south, and west, the two principal commercial"
points being Kashgar and Yarkand. Between Osh
and Kashgar are employed for transport 4,000 horses
a year ; between Narin and Kashgar 1,000 horses,
500 camels, and 25 asses; the exports to Semirechia
and Ferghana being valued at ,£150,000, and the im-
ports at ,£100,000 a year.

This trade was said to be increasing daily, owing
to the Russians paying no import duty, and, further,
because the residence of a Russian Consul gives the
traders a feeling of security, so that they are gradually
getting the trade into Russian hands.*

* The chief articles of export are mata and carpets ; but there are
no large capitalists, and many of the merchants trade on borrowed

440 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

By the next morning the Tautai had returned, and
I made my way to his yamen, with my camera ready.
Our party was shown into his private apartments,
where, after the usual formalities, and acceding to
the few things I asked, the General was amiable
enough to pose at the door of his room, whilst I
arranged in two rows his 25 retainers, some in
Chinese costume with black felt hats, but others,
apparently Dungans, with handkerchiefs tied about
their heads. After thus depicting the private apart-
ments, I was allowed to photograph the court-house,
or tribunal of justice, built of timber beams, having
also a table and certain emblems of authority, such
as are seen in Chinese public offices, as well as
several lanterns.

In the afternoon the Tautai returned my call, and
that with so much pomp and circumstance as to excite
the whole neighbourhood. He was borne in a huge
palanquin on the shoulders of perhaps a dozen men,
preceded and followed by a numerous suite. In front
was a man with a gong, thrumming and shouting to
all and sundry to get out of the way, for that the
Tautai was coming.

capital, for which they pay the lender one-third of the profits. Trade
is carried on chiefly by credit and by barter, such currency as there is
for large amounts being gold tillahs and silver yambs.

The trade with Badakshan is small, and not very long begun, and
little is done on the way with Shignan or Wakhan. The Badakshanis
bring to Yarkand horses, sheep, pistachio nuts, drugs, turquoise, and
an inferior quality of precious stones, for which they take back nashat
or hemp, gold, and carpets, but not often cotton stuffs. Again, from
India, vid Ladak, are brought a variety of cotton goods, coloured
muslins, calico, scarves, and cloth, among which are noticeable those
of Macdonald of Manchester and Graham of Bombay. To these must
be added red leather, drugs, watches, jewellery, knives, and Muham-
madan books; but the sale of Indian tea is forbidden throughout
Chinese Turkistan. In returning, the traders take with them silk,
nasha, gold, silver, wool, carpets, and felts.

of //

AT KASHGAR— THE "TALIA

. . . ..

HIS WAY TO VISIT DR LANSDELL.

Page 440.

OUR STA Y AT KASHGAR. 441

If any failed to give heed, there were two lictors
with whips thick enough to chastise an elephant ;
whilst next walked two or more executioners with
cudgels the length of a broomstick, and, as I have
previously described, spatulated at one end, and
ready to administer a beating at a moment's notice
— a tempting subject for an artist, though I am
bound to say I did not, on the present occasion,
see either instrument used.

On entering my humble lodging, the great man and
his suite filled it to overflowing. The meeting, how-
ever, was short, and he was borne away again with the
same ceremony as in coming, leaving or sending me
as a present four chickens and four ducks. I gave in
return presents of a binocular, oleographs, copies of the
Scriptures, a watch-chain and compass, my portrait,
a plume for his horse's martingale, and a pair of
brass rosettes.

I had asked to see the prison, and, next day, went
to do so, being taken first to call on the Chief of the
Kashgar district. Here, in a garden kiosque> I was
regaled with light refreshment by a very intelligent
Chinaman, who seemed to have met with Europeans
in China proper. As regards foreign information, he
was head and shoulders above the other officials. He
and a young man went with us to the prison. They
both seemed to have some knowledge of photography,
and even pointed out to me, when the picture was
focussed, that one of the lines was out of the per-
pendicular.

Whether the whole of the prison was shown to me
or not I am uncertain. They were some little time
before they announced that all was ready, and when
we did arrive the place bore signs of being brushed

442 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

up to its maximum presentability. One part of the
building was remarkable, and consisted of a double
row of cages of wooden bars perhaps six inches in
diameter, suggestive of a menagerie.

Here were three prisoners in a costume that was
new to me — namely, Chinese blouses of scarlet cotton
cloth. Their ankles were chained together below their
trousers, whilst round the neck was an iron band con-
tinued down to the waist, and having at the bottom
two loops, through which the wrists were secured.
Hence it was not only next to impossible to run away,
but the hands could not be brought to the mouth.

These men were undergoing four years' imprisonment
for manslaughter — the reason, I was told, they were
dressed in red. One had served three years, the
others two each. In every case the hair and beard
were uncut, and their uncombed locks, hanging from
beneath sheepskin hats, and in a country where most
persons have shaven heads, added much to their
miserable appearance.

I asked that the three might be brought out and
photographed, first in front of their cages, and then
in a little yard close by with their jailor, and two lictors,
one armed with a whip and the other with his long
cudgel, and both wearing tall sugar-loaf felt hats,
adorned in front with a perpendicular tin ornament,
and wearing on their breasts square or circular badges
of office of white calico inscribed with Chinese cha-
racters.

The authorities on this occasion were so amiable
that it struck me as a favourable opportunity to ask
for some of the prison instruments, offering to pay
for new ones as a substitute. Orders, therefore, were
given for making a murderer's suit and a lictors hat,

O UR STA Y AT KA SHGAR. 443

which, needless to say, I preferred to have new ; but
for instruments I took from the prison collection
some small scourges and a policeman's whip for patrol-
ling the streets.

They gave me also one of the iron abominations for
confining the neck and wrists ; a leather slapper, about
as big as the palm, for slapping naughty women's faces,
and a wooden stick for beating them elsewhere ; together
with what might be called a Chinese thumb-screw, or
rather finger torture, consisting of sticks to be placed
between the fingers and then tightened by means of
cords.*

How far these Chinese tortures are generally prac-
tised upon the Turkis I do not know, but in the case
of the three manslayers I felt perfectly convinced they
were dressed for my special benefit. They were said
to have been in prison for at least two years, whereas
their red clothing looked as if it had not come out
of the tailors hands two hours ago.

When, moreover, I asked to see the other prisoners,
and was expected to believe that these three men were
all the felons under arrest in Kashgar, my powers of

* Torture is practised, according to Williams, in China, upon both
prisoners and witnesses, in prison and also in court. Among the
methods employed in court, and reported in the Gazette, three are
described as legal — namely, boards with grooves for compressing
the ankles, round sticks for squeezing the fingers, and the bamboo.
Twisting the ears with roughened fingers, and keeping them bent
whilst making the prisoner kneel on chains, is illegal ; but when the
prisoner is contumacious, they sometimes resort to striking the lips
with sticks till they are nearly jellied, wrap the fingers in oiled cloth
and burn it, suspend the body by the thumbs and fingers, tie the hands
to a bar under the knees so as to bend the body double, and chain the
prisoner by the neck to a stone. One magistrate is accused of having
fastened two criminals to boards by nails driven through their palms,
using beds of iron, boiling water, and red-hot spikes [a catalogue, in
fact, as bad as the Papal Inquisition], but the Emperor exonerated the
magistrate on account of the atrocious character of the criminals.

444 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

belief broke down entirely, and I came to the conclu-
sion that the prison had indeed been prepared for my
visit. I left in it some Turki and Persian Scriptures
for future prisoners, and, after the fashion of the country,
gave a little money to the unfortunates, and then made
my way to the Consulate for dinner.

I have already intimated my uncertainty as to the
route by which to leave Chinese Turkistan. Con-
cerning the approaches to Tibet from Khotan I could
learn no more in Kashgar than in England, and reading
Dr Bellew's Kashmir and Kashgar and the horrors of
the Karakoram route did not make me anxious to pass
by that way into India.

Mr Wilkins, as already mentioned, had suggested
my ascending the Gez defile, crossing the Pamirs and
the Baroghil Pass to Chitral, and so into Kafiristan.
This, physically, would have been much easier, I
presume, than by the Karakoram ; besides which I
had been in correspondence with a medical missionary
in Kashmir, who had expressed his readiness to meet
me at Yarkand. He further proposed that we should
cross the Pamirs to Wakhan, and enter Kafiristan,
whence I happened to know that the people had sent
to Peshawur asking that a missionary should come to
them. If, therefore, the way opened in this direction,
I thought, as I approached Kashgar, it would be my
duty to enter.

My friend's " committee " in London had not seen
their way to grant my request that he might meet me at
Yarkand, but I had a lingering hope that in the interval
he might have obtained permission ; and, failing that,
I wondered whether it would be of any use to take
my boxes of medicine, endeavour to make my way to
Kafiristan, and on the plea that I understood they had

OUR STAY AT KASHGAR. 445

sent for a missionary, and had offered to provide him
a house, ask to be allowed to see it, and invite further
negotiations.

I had accordingly asked M. Petrovsky to inquire
into the possibilities of my reaching Kafiristan ; but he
completely overturned my air-castles by explaining,
more fully than I previously knew, the relative posi-
tions and relations of Chitral and Kafiristan ; and he
said that to enter the latter district would probably
mean death.

Perplexed, I anxiously but vainly awaited letters
that might come from any of four directions.* Sub-
sequently it appeared that my correspondence travelled
by each of these four routes, and eventually I received
the whole of it, so far as I know, except one bundle
of letters in an envelope, which, after travelling to
Kashgar, and back again safely to England, was
irrecoverably lost in the post between London and
Sevenoaks.

My way, therefore, seemed shut up to the Karakoram,
failing the receipt of a telegram which I anticipated
might recall me westwards by the Terek Pass ; and
this M. Petrovsky seemed rather to wish that I might
try, no Englishman up to that time having crossed it.
He spoke also of the desirability of my visiting
Khotan, in connection with which the principal diffi-

* On the 2nd of the month, it seemed, a djiguitt was despatched
from Osh, who usually reached Kashgar on the 9th ; and on the 15th
of the month Cossacks set out with money and letters from Narin,
and arrived by the 24th. These were the only regular postal com-
munications ; but the British authorities at Leh were able occasionally
to send letters by chance traders passing through Ladak ; whilst, lastly,
the authorities in China proper despatched messengers to " the Western
Country " as necessity required, who also, by favour, sometimes carried
letters to private individuals, their quickest delivery between Peking and
Kashgar being two months.

446 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

culty seemed the getting there and back again in time
to cross the passes before the fall of the winter snows.

I therefore began to make preparations. On paying
off Osman Bai, he expressed his willingness to go to
Khotan and to India, if I desired ; but for this he
asked a prohibitive price, and evidently did not want
to go even to Yarkand. At the same time, he was
quite effusive in his compliments, asking for a compass
as a parting gift, with the observation that the money
I paid him would speedily be scattered, but the com-
pass he should wear, and thus at the hour of prayer be
reminded of me ever hereafter. He thought, too, it
was such an admirable thing for an English gentleman
to travel and spend money in the country, and he
hoped that I should come again.

Obliged, therefore, to look for a new carrier, I was
glad of the assistance of a Turki official, Ibrahim Beg,
who found me a man possessing three arias, in which
my baggage was to be transported to Yarkand ; but
before leaving we were to go out to the locally famous
shrine of Hazrat Aphak.

The lack of antiquities in a place that has existed
for so many centuries as Kashgar is surprising. From
pre-historic times downwards, it appears to have been
the capital of the territory and a centre of trade. So
early as 94 a.d. we read of its being conquered by the
Chinese general Panchao. In the seventh century it
was visited by Hiuen Tsiang, who calls it Kie-sha;
and in the eighth century it was conquered again by
the Muhammadan warrior Kutaiba. Abulfelda quotes
authors with respect to Kashgar of the tenth and
twelfth centuries ; and then comes Marco Polo, in
whose day it was the seat of a Nestorian bishopric ;
but of the " Cascar " visited by him all that now

Ot/R SjTAY AT KASHGAR. 44?

remains is the ruin called Aski Shahr, " the old city,"
seen a little to the eastwards from the bridge between
the present town and fortress. *

The present town dates from 15 13, and was built as
a fortress by 10,000 men in seven days, under Mirza
Abakakar, when he destroyed the ancient capital on
the approach of an invading army under Sultan Said
Khan. Nearly two centuries later the first mullah
king of the country, named Khoja Aphak, died, and
in 1693 was buried about two miles north of the city,
beyond the Tuman river. The spot has now become
a place of pilgrimage ; and the shrine of Hazrat Aphak
represents the most renowned Muhammadan building,
with any pretension to antiquity, in Chinese Turkistan.

When visited by Forsyth, his party were said to be
the first Christians allowed to enter its sacred precincts,
and I was sufficiently premonished concerning Muham-
madan bigotry to know that if I wished to see it, and,
above all, to take photographs, I must be on my best
behaviour.

On our way, beyond the river, we passed a cemetery.
Many of the tombs are covered with domes, or
vaulted chambers, open towards the east ; and several
of these in Forsyth's time were inhabited by ragged
and filthy Kalendars, or dervishes, " devoted ascetics
and abandoned mendicants/' as he calls them, " veri-
table dwellers among the tombs, impudent claimants
of charity from every passer-by, and equally ready

* It consists of a few walls about 24 feet high and 12 paces broad at
the top, built of hard clay and gravel. At intervals of 50 or 60 paces
are tall, round moles, built of layers of clay and rubble. On the west
face are four of these moles standing some 30 feet from the walls, and
pierced with horizontal lines of holes, at intervals of about 6 feet. These
represent, probably, sockets for rafters to a covered way from the
outwork to the fort, giving the archers a flank fire upon assailants.

448

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

with curse or blessing, as their loud appeals may-
require." I imagine their number may have diminished
under the Chinese rdgime, for we were not molested
by them ; and all went well up to our arrival, when I
asked to see the Sheikh, or chief mullah of the shrine.
We were shown into a carpeted room, and seated on
the floor. Refreshment was quickly brought, and on the

DERVISH SHAH ISMAIL, A KALENDAR OF THE APHAK MONASTERY.

Sheikh's appearing, I began to enlarge upon the long
journey I had made from distant lands, whither had
spread the fame of Hazrat Aphak, and said I hoped to
be allowed to see for myself what had otherwise been
learned by reading. I informed him, further, that I,
too, was a mullah, and had brought some of our sacred
books ; that I should like to present to the college the

OUR STAY AT KASHGAR. 449

Bible in Arabic and Persian, and the Inghil, or New
Testament, in Persian and Kirghese. Upon this the
Sheikh accepted the books, and preparations were
quickly made for showing me the buildings.

The mausoleum is surrounded by a cemetery, a
coveted spot for burial, full of clay tombs, inclosed
by a wall and shaded by numerous silver poplars
called tarik. Walking down the main avenue, we
came to a spot of historical interest, where Yakub
Khan had been buried. The Chinese, however, on
re-entering Kashgar, were not minded that the bones
of the usurper should rest in peace. They, therefore,
exhumed the body, burnt it, sent the ashes to Peking,
and forbade the erection of any monument or descrip-
tive sign over the rifled grave.

This struck me as a good opportunity to begin
photographic operations. I said that we had heard
of Yakub Khan in England, and asked two of the
mullahs to stand and point to the spot where their
ruler was buried. Yakub Khan was, of course, in
favour with them, since he posed as a good Muham-
madan, and it was he, according to Forsyth, who built
the college, mosque, and monastery adjoining the
mausoleum.

This view taken, I had only to turn my camera
round and say how much I should like to secure a
view of the eastern side of the mausoleum, the most
beautiful of all buildings in Chinese Turkistan. No
objection was made, whereupon I proceeded next to
take a picture of a local curiosity on the same side —
namely, a brick pedestal, on the top of which was a
pyramid of ovis poliy or wild sheep's horns, such as
would delight the heart of an English collector, and
the like of which I have seen nowhere else. I next

vol. i. 29

450

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

was allowed to photograph the northern face of the
building, but was given to understand that the door
was locked, and that no one was allowed to enter.

The mausoleum is a rectangular building, with a
dome, and on the north side is a pishtak over the

AT KASHGAR— MULLAHS INDICATING THE RIFLED GRAVE OF YAKUB KHAN.

principal entrance, and round minarets at the two
corners. The walls are faced with blue and white
glazed tiles, which, as specimens of Kashi work, are
in no way remarkable — in fact, are very poor as com-
pared with the Kashi work of Samarkand. Forsyth

OUR STAY AT KASHGAR. 451

saw it, no doubt, at its best, when recently restored
by Yakub Khan, and he calls it handsome ; but such
an expression is permissible only by comparison with
the generally wretched buildings of the country.

Near the gateway leading to the mausoleum is the
so-called Golden Mosque, with wooden doors, and
pillars of carved work. I photographed this, and
then made my way to dinner, and told M. Petrovsky
of my successes.

" You mean to say that you have taken a dozen
pictures of Hazrat Aphak?"

" Yes."

" Well, that is more than I have had the courage to
attempt during the six years I have been here ! n

But the Consul forgot that when he was photo-
graphically inclined, he proceeded to a spot in his
caleche with Cossacks before and behind, and that he
might consider it beneath his dignity, if forbidden, to
allow himself to be deterred by Muhammadan preju-
dice from effecting his purpose ; whereas, with me, had
they objected, I should have simply packed up my
camera and departed, and the wheels of the universe
would have rolled on as usual.

To me the incident seemed to show that one
need not always be afraid of the alleged bigotry of
the Muhammadans, and to illustrate the saying that
"one man may steal the cow whilst another dare not
look over the hedge."

My remaining days in Kashgar were hrgely devoted
to reducing baggage, and packing my specimens for
transport homewards.

CHRONOLOGY

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

{Vol. I. is to be understood, unless otherwise mentioned.)

DATE B.C.

2698. Inventors of Arts and Sciences arrived in China

1 122. Singan, capital of Shensi, and, for 2,000 years, of China .

580. Supposed flight of Syawush to Afrasiab, near Bokhara .

550. The founder of Buddhism died

253. The Great Wall of China built by Shi-Huangti .

200. The Yuechi deprived of their lands by the Uigurs

163. The Saka pushed out of the Tarim valley .

140 — 86. The Yuechi driven from their seats by the Hiongnu .

139. The Envoy Chang Kian despatched to the Yuechi for help

135. Chinese Emperor sent Chang Kian against the Hiongnu .

126. The Saka driven farther West

62. Emperor Ming-ti despatched a mission to Tokharistan .

60. The Uigurs were conquered by the Chinese

59. The Chinese subdued the Hiongnu

A.D.

65. Emperor Ming-ti sent to India for Buddhist information .

73. The Chinese took Hami and established military colonies.

83. Hiongnu and Uigurs subdued under Panchao . . 358,

94. Kashgar conquered by Chinese General Panchao
142 and 178. Chinese settlers were colonised in Armenia
200. Christianity introduced into Merv

Khotan sent elephants to the Emperor of China
Chi-Ming translated Buddhist writings from Patna

Fa-hian reached China

Chinese subjects permitted to take Buddhist vows
Chi Fa-hian procured Buddhist writings from India

202.
250.
260.
335.
399-

41 1 or 503. The bishopric of Samarkand founded

358,

357
324
ii. 48
ii. 81
ii. 48
ii. 48
ii. 48
358
ii. 49

358
ii. 48
ii. 81
ii. 49

358

359

326

ii. 49

360

41
ii. 168
ii. 82
ii. S2
ii. 82
ii. S^
ii. 122

CHRONOLOGY. 453

DATE A.D.

420. The See of Merv was promoted to Metropolitan rank . 41, ii. 122
445. A Chinese punitive expedition was sent against Tangut . ii. 168
461. The first record of a Chinese embassy to Persia . . 361
518. Sung Yun procured MSS. from India .... 359, ii. 83

629. Hiuen Tsiang travelled to India, etc., to study Buddhism ii. 83

630. The Tibetans learned arithmetic and medicine from China ii. 291
635. The Missionary Olopan from Syria arrived in China. 361, ii. 120
639. Srong-btsan-sgam-po founded Shaldan, afterwards Lassa ii. 292

712. Kutaiba conquered Bokhara and penetrated into Fer-

ghana ii. 50, 208

713. General Kutaiba crossed the mountains td Kashgar . . 360
713 — 755. Christian Church recovered its ascendency in China, ii. 120

714. See of Samarkand promoted to Metropolitan rank . . ii. 122
745. An edict issued in China concerning Christian temples 361, ii. 120
781. Singanfii monument erected by Nestorian Christians. . ii. 120

845. Persecution of Christians in China ii. 120

858 — 1338. Dates on tombstones in Nestorian cemeteries . . ii. 124
860. John of Balad ordained by Sergius as Bishop of Merv . ii. 122
878. Christians formed a large foreign population at Khanfu . ii. 121
888. Ismail, a Samanid, became governor of Samarkand . . ii. 209
893. Ismail captured and annexed Taras, or (possibly) Talas . ii. 209

900. Joseph was Bishop of Merv ii. 122

907. The Samanid Empire extended from Ispahan to Turfan . ii. 50
988. Ebed Jesu was Bishop of Merv ii. 122

1 013. Dharmapala came to Tibet with several Buddhist disciples ii. 293
1037. Hasan Bughra Khan succeeded as ruler over Kashgar . ii. 74
1 041. The second introduction of Buddhism into Tibet . . ii. 288
1070. The Kudatku Bilik was written in Kashgar . ii. 133

1 135. The leader of the Kara Khitai took the title of Gur-Khan ii. 51
1 176. Supposed date of inscription on a rock in the Muzart gorge 247
1220. The Tarim valley passed under the rule of Jinghiz Khan 366, ii. 51
1 241. Jagatai died after succeeding his father, Jinghiz Khan . ii. 52
1245. Carpini proceeded by the Irtish valley to Mongolia . 362

1246 — 48. Sakya Pandita visited the Court of Kuyuk Khan . ii. 293

1253. Rubruquis started by the Syr-daria to Mongolia . . 362

1254. Hayton of Armenia proceeded from the Volga to Mongolia 362

1270. The Sakya-pa lamas became Tibetan rulers for 70 years . ii. 293

1271. Marco Polo crossed the Pamirs from Badakshan 362

1274. Water stations established between Khotan and Yarkand ii. 157

1275. Marco Polo arrived at Kubilai's Court in China . 362
13 1 6. Monastic life in Central Asia proved by an epitaph . . ii. 129
1328. Friar Odoric of Pordenone visited Tibet . . . . ii. 299
1336. Pascal, a Franciscan, travelled through Urgenj (Khiva) . ii. 125
1338 — 42. Papal Embassy passed through Old Khiva to Peking 363

1339. William of Modena was put to death at Almalik
1342. Marignolli baptised some of the natives at Hami

363
326

454

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

1347-
1375.
*377-
1383.
1389.

1399-
1419.
1447.
15I3-
I531-
1576.

1602.
1624.
1644.
1645.
1655.
1661.
1678.
1684.
1688.
1693.
1706.
1716.

-63. Tuglak Timur on the throne in Mongolia . ■ . . ii. 52
The Catalan map shows a monastery near I ssik-Kul . ii. 129
Turfan appears first in Chinese annals .... 334
Khizr Khoja reigned and enforced the shariat on Kirghese ii. 213
Tamerlane undertook his last campaign into Moghulistan ii. 52
Aksu is described as having three castles .... 340
A new route to Hami followed by Shah Rukh's Embassy . 363
The Tashi Lunpo monastery was founded by Gedundub . ii. 294
The present town of Kashgar was built as a fortress . 447
Said, according to the Tarikhi Raskidi, invaded Tibet . ii. 53
The king of Koko-Nor designated Sodnam "Vadjra

Dalai Lama* ' ii. 294

Travels of Goes through Central Asia .... 364

Antonio Andrada visited Tibet ii. 299

Manchus placed present dynasty on the Chinese throne . 156
The fifth Dalai Lama was made monarch of all Tibet . ii. 294
The Russians sent their first Embassy to Peking . . 368
Grueber and Dorville went from Peking to Agra, via Lassa ii. 300

Aphak placed as governor at Yarkand
Russia and China first came to blows on the Amur .
Limits of Manchuria defined by Treaty of Nertchinsk
Khoja Aphak, the first Mullah king of Kashgar, died
Joseph d'Asculi, and Maria de Tonn, reached Lassa
Renat reconnoitred and drew first map of Sungaria .
iDesideri left Lassa

1 7 1 7 . The Sungarian name of Urumtsi appeared in Chinese annals

1718.

>»
1719.
1720.
1740.

1755.
1756.

>>
1757-

1758.
1760.
1771.
1772.

1774-
1778.
1782.

17*3-
1786.

The Sungarians invaded Tibet

A map of Tibet was submitted to the Jesuits .

Van de Putte made his way to Lassa through India

The Jesuits surveyed China generally

Orazio della Penna reached Lassa through Nepal

The Chinese army finally conquered Tibet .

Orazio della Penna once more reached Lassa .

Amursana was made ruler of Sungaria

Sungaria was depopulated by the Chinese .

D' Arocha determined the astronomical position of Urumtsi

Hami was again placed under the administration of Kansu

The Tarim valley again in the hands of the Chinese .

Christian missionaries were expelled from Lassa

The Torgout Kalmuks returned to the Hi valley

Deb Judhur invaded Kuch Behar

Warren Hastings sent Bogle to the Rajah of Bhotan
Tchuen-yuen wrote Memoirs of the Western Countries,
The Goorkhas of Nepal appeared before Tashi Lunpo
Captain Turner was sent through Bhotan to Shigatze
The Chinese expelled the Goorkhas from Tibet .

"• 54
369
'54
447

ii. 300

372
300
33^
295
ii. 307
ii. 301

373
300

295
300

55
169

33i

3^7
»• 55
ii. 302

169
ii. 302
ii. 302

368
ii. 295
ii. 303
ii. 307

CHRONOLOGY. 455

DATE A.D. PAGE

1792. To this date the Dalai Lamas were elected by the clergy . ii. 289

181 1. The Russians began to trade at Chuguchak and Kuldja . 369

,, Thomas Manning made his way to Lassa . . . ii. 303

1813. The Chinese subsidised Khokand to control the Khojas . ii. 56

1820. Koros travelled through Bokhara and Cabul to Leh . . ii. 304

1828. Humboldt reached Baty on the Irtish 370

1834. The Dogra troops under Zorawar Sing subdued Ladak . ii. 296

1838. Efforts to Christianise Manchuria were begun . . . 159

„ Wood pushed up to the Pamirs from Badakshan . . ii. 16

1840. English missionaries expelled from the Trans- Baikal . 163

1841. Zarawar Sing plundered the monasteries of Rudok . . ii. 296

1842. The Chinese re-occupied lost territory and besieged Leh . ii. 296

1844. Hue and Gabet made their way to Lassa . . . . ii. 303

1845. De la Bruniere was murdered on the Amur by the Gilyaks 159

1846. Seven Khojas under Katti Tura took Kashgar . . . ii. 57
1851. The treaty of Kuldja made between Russians and Chinese ii. 260
1853. Two Moravian missionaries set out for Mongolia vid India ii. 306

1857. Adolf Schlagintweit penetrated into Chinese Turkistan 374

1858. The route was opened between Kiakhta and Kalgan . 161
,, The Russians took all Manchuria north of the Amur . 155

1859. Valikanoff, disguised, crossed the Tian Shan to Kashgar 370
i860. The district round Issik-Kul was ceded to Russia . 371

,, Government of India employed natives surveying . .* ii. 16

1862. Dungan rebellion broke out in Shensi and Kansu . . ii. 58

1863. Mr Howell crossed China from Shanghai to Kiakhta . 161

1865. Yakub Khan arose and posed as a Ghazi . . . . ii. 217
,, Johnson approached Khotan from Leh . . . ii. 170

1866. Yakub Khan ruled over Kashgar, Yarkand, and Khotan . ii. 59

1868. Shaw and Hay ward crossed the Himalayas to Kashgar . 374

1869. Whyte's Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg . 161
1870 — *]i' The Forsyth Missions from India to Yakub Khan . 374-5

1870. Das went to Tashi Lunpo to study Buddhism . . . ii. 309

187 1. A school was opened in Vierny for baptised Kalmuks . 256
,, The Hi valley came into possession of Russia for 12 years 370

1871—73. Prjevalsky's first expedition, from Kiakhta to Kalgan 371

1872. Yakub Khan received the Mission of Kaulbars . . . ii. 60
„ Ney Elias crossed from Kuei-hwa-Cheng to Uliassutai . 374

1873. Hi valley visited by Ashton Dilke and Schuyler. . 374

1874. Gordon, Trotter, and Biddulph penetrated to Kila Panj . ii. 17
,, Dalgleish made his way as a trader to Yarkand . . ii. 111

1874—75. Pandit Nain Sing explored from Leh to Lake Tengri. ii. 308

1875. The expedition of Sosnovsky passed through Hami . . 370
,, Yakub Khan received the second Mission of Reintal . ii. 60

1875—76. Milne wrote on the Route from St Petersburg to Peking 161

1876. The Chinese re-occupied Manas and Urumtsi . . . ii. 61
„ Prjevalsky set out from Kuldja up the Yulduz valley . 371

456 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA,

DATS A.D.

1876. Pievtsoff travelled from the Zaisan to Guchen .
,, Kuropatkin crossed from Ferghana to Kashgar
,, Kostenko was the first Russian author to reach the Pamirs

1877. Yakub Khan died . . . .

,, Potanin passed through Hami

1877 — 78. The Chinese re-conquered the country round Khotan
,, Severtsoff visited and wrote concerning the Pamirs

1878. Siu-Joshive regained Urumtsi for the Chinese .

„ Oshanin visited Karategin

,, Pandit A. K. was despatched to cross Tibet into Mongolia

1879. Prjevalsky started from Lake Zaisan along the Ulungur
„ Count Szechenyi tried to enter Tibet from Sachu

,, Regel travelled from Kuldja to Turfan

,, Dr Lansdell crossed Siberia and part of Manchuria

1880. Delmar Morgan visited the Hi valley .

1881. Dr Regel explored Darwaz

,, Russian merchants established themselves at Hami
,, Russo-Chinese treaty on retrocession of Kuldja.
„ Chandra Das and a Lama visited Lassa .

1882. Two French travellers crossed Manchuria to Vladivostock
„ Dr Lansdell visited the Hi valley ....

1883—85. Prjevalsky crossed the Gobi from Urga to Ala-Shan
1884. Prjevalsky crossed the Nan Shan Mountains to Koko-Nor
1885 — 87. Carey travelled round Chinese Turkistan .

1886. Dr Seeland journeyed from Vierny to Kashgar and Aksu

1 887. Harry de Windt crossed Mongolia ....
,, Bell and Younghusband rode from Peking to Kashgar

1888. Grombchevsky proceeded from Marghilan to the Alai
,, Bonvalot, Capus, and Pepin crossed the Pamirs to India

1889 — 90. Bonvalot crossed the Tarim desert into Tibet

1889. Roborovsky's party entered Nia ....
„ Grombchevsky, Pievtsoff, Bonvalot, Rockhill, and Lans-
dell travelling towards Lassa

1890. Grum-Grjimailo explored the Bogdo Mountains
„ Cumberland and Bower crossed the Karakoram

,, Mr and Mrs Littledale went a second time to the Pamirs
1890—91. Younghusband made excursions to the Pamirs .

1 89 1. Bower started again to cross Tibet ....
„ Cumberland approached the Pamirs by the Gez defile

PAGE

370

370
ii. 17

ii. 62
3*7
375

ii. 17

333
ii. 17
ii. 308

371
ii. 3*o

335

156

374

ii. 17

32S

ii. 260

ii. 309

156

174

372

ii. 310

375
37i
161

375
ii. 18
ii. 19
ii. 172
ii. 174

335
376
ii. 19
ii. 19
ii. 312
ii. 45

Plinted by Hazell, Watson, & Viney, Ld, London and Aylesbury.

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